Markets of Paris, 2nd Edition: Food, Antiques, Crafts, Books, and More

306 Pages·2012·10.92 MB·English

by  Dixon Long

© 2012 The Little Bookroom
Text © 2012 Dixon Long and Marjorie R. Williams
Photos © 2012 Marjorie R. Williams Cover and Endpaper Illustration Susan Burghart
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Long, Dixon.
Markets of Paris / by Dixon Long and Marjorie R. Williams;
photographs by Marjorie R. Williams.—2nd ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
1. Markets—France—Paris—Guidebooks. 2. Paris (France)—Guidebooks. I. Williams, Marjorie. R. II. Title.
HF5474.F9P34 2012
381’.180944361–dc23
2011041982
eBook ISBN: 978-1-93694108-7
Trade Paperback ISBN: 978-1-936941-00-7
Published by The Little Bookroom
435 Hudson Street, Suite 300
New York NY 10014
[email protected]
www.littlebookroom.com
v3.1
To the memories of Ruthanne Long and Gloria Williams
whose love of travel, people, food, and adventure lives on
Paris is always a good idea.
(Audrey Hepburn in the film Sabrina)
CONTENTS
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Dedication
INTRODUCTION
PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS
GETTING ALONG IN THE FOOD MARKETS
IF YOU HAVE LIMITED TIME
♦
1st arrondissement ♦ LOUVRE
2nd arrondissement ♦ BOURSE
3rd arrondissement ♦ MARAIS
4th arrondissement ♦ ISLANDS IN THE SEINE
5th arrondissement ♦ LATIN QUARTER
6th arrondissement ♦ SAINT-GERMAIN
7th arrondissement ♦ EIFFEL TOWER
8th arrondissement ♦ CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
9th arrondissement ♦ OPÉRA
10th arrondissement ♦ GARE DU NORD
11th arrondissement ♦ BASTILLE
12th arrondissement ♦ BERCY
13th arrondissement ♦ NATIONAL LIBRARY
14th arrondissement ♦ MONTPARNASSE
15th arrondissement ♦ VAUGIRARD
16th arrondissement ♦ TROCADÉRO
17th arrondissement ♦ BATIGNOLLES
18th arrondissement ♦ MONTMARTRE
19th arrondissement ♦ BUTTES-CHAUMONT
20th arrondissement ♦ BELLEVILLE
♦
EATING OUT IN PARIS
RESTAURANTS
HELPFUL BOOKS, BLOGS, AND WEBSITES
OPEN ON SUNDAY
RESTAURANT INDEX
MARKET INDEX
Acknowledgments
About the Authors
Introduction
We have a love affair with markets. For Dixon, it began when he lived in Paris in
the 1960s and found that flea markets were the best places to buy inexpensive
furniture and household goods. For Marjorie, it began when she visited
Fontainebleau in 1995 and heard the early morning buzz build as a market took
shape in the plaza across from her hotel. For both of us, the discovery of Paris’s open-
air food markets transformed that affair into a long-term relationship. The
abundance of good things to cook and to eat, their freshness, and the good will of the
vendors, gathered us in an embrace that never let us go.
Why do markets dazzle and delight us? Above all, it’s the opportunity to observe
and participate in an experience that is quintessentially French, and independent of
social or economic class. In the markets, real people fill real needs for food, clothing,
tools, household goods—sustenance for the body—but also books, stamps, letters,
and relics from the past that nurture the mind and the soul. Moreover, there’s no
requirement for the observer to participate (though you may strike up a conversation
or two). In a market, you’re plunged into an authentic experience in which you can
be as anonymous as you wish, or speak up to anyone you happen to rub elbows with.
As we define it, a market is a place where you can find a lot of the same thing at
competitive prices. There is a market in Paris for fabrics, and another for paper
ephemera goods. Birds and small animals have markets of their own. Similar kinds
of shops have migrated to common locations that function as markets—for example,
antiques, ceramics, fine art, textiles, musical instruments, and overstocked designer
clothing. You can find a market not only for these things, but just about anything
else imaginable.
There are seventy open-air food markets (including three organic markets), each
in a different location in the city, open two or three times a week, all year long. Add
to this ten covered food markets, and a dozen pedestrian streets where stalls push out
on the sidewalk, extending the reach of commerce. We’ve also included a list of our
favorite restaurants. It changes faster than one might imagine, but we have tried to
keep up with that fast-moving phenomenon too.
Crisscrossing the city by foot and métro, we visited markets for stamps and phone
cards, used books, prints, and fresh flowers. We already knew about the Clignancourt
flea market, but got to know the sprawling flea market near the Porte de Vanves, the
market for paper items of all kinds just outside the Porte de Vincennes, and many
more.
Since completing the initial research ten years ago, much has changed in Paris
and in the lives of the writers. This new edition is the result of collaboration between
Dixon Long, one of the original authors of this book, and Marjorie Williams, a
Boston-based food writer. Together and separately we reviewed all of the markets in
the central city, and many farther afield. Much of the text is new, and the shopping
suggestions have been updated.
When we go back, we embrace the city as an old friend whose habits and
idiosyncrasies we recognize. But it’s also a friend who is constantly growing and
changing, and who can still surprise, inspire, and enchant us. We’ve kept our
presentations brief, and identified people and places that caught our interest. But
you’ll make your own discoveries. Whatever your interest or the length of your stay,
you’ll find a market to fascinate and reward you. So bon voyage, and be sure to visit
the markets the next time you see Paris, and the next, and the next …
Practical Suggestions
The markets are a great way to see Paris with fresh eyes and to meet the people up
close. This guide will take you into parts of the city where you may never have been,
and show you markets whose existence you might never have guessed.
The selection of our favorite markets, listed in the first few pages of each
arrondissement section, is based on several factors: most are bustling and colorful
(such as rue d’Aligre); some are located in places that are interesting for cultural
reasons (such as Président Wilson in the elegant 16th arrondissement, and Barbès in
the 18th arrondissement, the predominantly North African part of the city). There
are also those that offer unusual value or variety, such as the Saint-Germain Arts and
Antiques Galleries or the Booksellers on the Seine. Occasional sidebars highlight
information that is somewhat tangential, but we found it interesting and thought
you might too.
Here are some practical suggestions for making your visits to markets easy, enjoyable,
and productive: ♦ Like all great cities of the world, Paris is organized into
administrative subdivisions—here they are called arrondissements. They begin with
the 1st arrondissement in the heart of the city on the right bank of the Seine and
unroll clockwise making two full circles until they end with the 20th arrondissement
on the eastern side of the city. Each has a town hall and offers a variety of services
not provided by the City of Paris. On street signs, you will see above the street name
the number of the arrondissement. Like many guidebooks, Markets of Paris is
organized by arrondissement.
♦ Always take a map. We like Paris pratique par arrondissement, published by
l’Indispensable. You can find it in the kiosks on the street, in magazine stands in
train stations and bookstores, as a 96-page pocket book, and as a foldout map, Paris
Poche. Careful examination will reveal a small blue basket at the site of every open-
air food market, and a white basket on a blue background at the sites of the covered
markets.
♦ We get around Paris by métro and on foot, using taxis if the weather turns rainy