Manicure, pedicure and advanced nail techniques

366 Pages·1992·33.45 MB·English

by  Elaine Almond B.Sc.(Hons)

MANICURE, PEDICURE AND
ADVANCED NAIL TECHNIQUES
RELATED MACMILLAN TITLES
The Nail File by Leo Palladino and June Hunt
Science and The Beauty Business: Volume 1, The Science of Cosmetics,
and Volume 2, The Beauty Salon and its Equipment, both by
John V. Simmons
Manicure, pedicure
and advanced nail
techniques
ELAINE ALMOND
B.Sc.(Hons), Cert.Ed., C.Biol., M.I.Biol., LCSP(B.Th.), BABTAC
M
MACMILLAN
© Elaine Almond 1992
Softcover reprint of the hardcover 1st edition 1992
All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of
this publication may be made without written permission.
No paragraph of this publication may be reproduced, copied or
transmitted save with written permission or in accordance with
the provisions of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988,
or under the terms of any licence permitting limited copying
issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency, 90 Tottenham Court Road,
London W1P 9HE.
Any person who does any unauthorised act in relation to this
publication may be liable to criminal prosecution and civil
claims for damages.
First published 1992 by
THE MACMILLAN PRESS LTD
Houndmills, Basingstoke, Hampshire RG21 2XS
and London
Companies and representatives
throughout the world
ISBN 978-1-349-22085-4 ISBN 978-1-349-22083-0 (e Book)
DOI 10.1007/978-1-349-22083-0
A catalogue record for this book is available
from the British Library.
Typeset by Wearset, Boldon, Tyne and Wear
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
01 00 99 98 97 96 95 94 93 92
CONTENTS
Acknowledgements ix
Introduction 1
PART I MANICURING AND PEDICURING AS A CAREER 3
THE MANICURIST 5
The demands of the profession 5
Professional ethics 8
Diet and fitness 10
Posture 12
PART II HYGIENE 15
2 MICRO-ORGANISMS 17
Bacteria 17
Viruses 21
Fungi 22
Transmission of infection 24
3 SALON HYGIENE 26
Sterilisation 27
Disinfection 32
Antisepsis 35
General salon hygiene 36
AIDS and hepatitis B 40
PART Ill BASIC COSMETIC SCIENCE 43
4 COSMETICS 45
Terms used 45
Raw materials 49
5 RECIPES FOR HOME USE 54
Safety precautions 54
Recipes 55
vi Contents
PART IV MANICURING AND PEDICURING 63
6 TOOLS OF THE TRADE 65
Equipment 65
Implements 71
Materials 78
Cosmetic materials 79
PARTV THE MANICURE 87
7 PRELIMINARIES 89
Preparing the manicure station 89
Contra-indications 93
Smoking 93
Safety in the salon 94
8 THE MANICURE 96
Performing the manicure 96
Tidying the manicure station 111
Home care for nails and hands 111
9 NAIL SHAPE AND LENGTH 114
Shape 114
Length 120
10 VARNISHING 121
Preparing the nail plate 121
Preparing the varnish 122
Applying the varnish 123
Problems during wear 130
Styles of application and nail art 131
Selecting the colour 135
11 ADDITIONAL TREATMENTS 140
Hot oil manicures 140
Paraffin waxing 140
Nail buffing 143
Gentleman's manicure 145
Manicure machines 145
12 MASSAGE: HANDS AND ARMS 149
The principles of massage 149
Hand and arm massage 153
Exercising the hands 156
Contents vii
PART VI THE PEDICURE 159
13 PRELIMINARIES 161
Preparing the pedicure station 161
Contra-indications 165
14 THE PEDICURE 166
Performing the pedicure 166
Tidying the pedicure station 173
Toenail shape and length 173
Home care for nails and feet 174
15 MASSAGE: FEET AND LOWER LEGS 176
Foot and leg massage 176
Exercising the feet 180
16 FOOT PROBLEMS 182
Sources of problems 182
Some common problems 183
PART VII ADVANCED NAIL TECHNIQUES 191
17 THE BASIC PRINCIPLES 193
Nail extension techniques: an introduction 193
Consultation 194
Administration 195
Preparing the nail plate 199
18 TEMPORARY EXTENSIONS 200
Temporary extensions for home use 200
Temporary extensions for salon use 201
Removing temporary extensions 206
19 'PERMANENT' EXTENSIONS: AN INTRODUCTION 208
Special equipment, implements, cosmetics and
materials 208
General points 218
Contra-indications 221
Allergic reactions 223
Infections 224
Aftercare 225
Lifting 226
Removal 226
20 'PERMANENT' EXTENSIONS: TECHNIQUES 228
Acrylic (sculptured) nails 228
Nail tips 237
viii Contents
Gel nails 239
Nail wraps 243
Fibreglass nails 247
Nail repairs 256
PART VIII USEFUL BIOLOGY 259
21 HISTOLOGY, ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY 261
The cell 261
The skin 264
The nail and surrounding structures 270
The circulation of blood to the hands and feet 279
The lymphatic system 285
The nervous system of the hands and feet 286
The muscular system of the hands and feet 289
The bones of the hands and feet 293
PART IX NAIL DISORDERS AND DISEASES 299
22 DISORDERS AND DISEASES 301
Diagnosing problems 301
A survey of nail disorders and diseases 306
Nail plate colour changes 330
Skin conditions 331
Nail growth 332
PART X BUSINESS MANAGEMENT 335
23 CARE AND CONTROL OF STOCK 337
The need for stock control 338
Objectives 341
Administration 341
24 SALES TECHNIQUES 349
The successful salesperson 349
Adopting the right approach 352
Promoting products and services 353
25 STARTING YOUR OWN BUSINESS 357
Preliminaries 358
Advice 359
Expansion 363
Index 365
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The author wishes to thank personally the following people and
organisations for their assistance in producing this book.
Dr Andrew L. Wright, Consultant Dermatologist, Bradford Royal
Infirmary, for his time and encouragement, and for providing his
unique nail disease/disorder photographs.
For providing scientific and general information: Rosemary Barnes
(Toriess Limited); Dr G. D. S. Beechey; Anthony G. Broughton (Pro
tecto PLC & Atom Chemicals Limited); Tony Coomber (Light Con
cept Nails Limited); Russell Leach (Star Nails); Claudette J. Noe
(Backscratchers); and Dr Peter D. Samman.
For a superb job on the many technique photographs taken for this
book, many thanks to the photographer, Darren Smith, of Chorley,
Lancashire.
Stanley Thomes, Russell Leach and Kevin Quinn (Willen Limited)
for their help, encouragement and support at a very crucial time
during the preparation of this book.
Gareth and Pat Hardwick, of Grafton International Limited, whose
ongoing encouragement, support, help and advice was much
appreciated.
For photographs supplied: Dr P. K. Buxton and The Medical
Photography Department (Victoria Hospital, Kirkaldy, Fife); Cereal
Partners UK; Tony Coomber (Light Concept Nails Limited); Ellisons;
European Touch Limited; Valerie Foote (Salon System); and the
Hairdressing & Beauty Equipment Centre.
Last but by no means least, many thanks to Suzannah Tipple,
Andrew Nash and Isobel Munday of my publishers.
This book is dedicated to my mother, Doris Ramsbottom, and my
husband, Michael Almond, for their loyal support and under
standing.
Note about pronouns
There are male and female nail technicians, just as there are male and
female clients. However, to use 'he or she' and 'him or her' through
out the text becomes cumbersome in a book such as this: for
simplicity and ease of reading, therefore, we have used simply 'she',
'her' and so on throughout.