MALLMANN ON FIRE FRANCIS MALLMANN with Peter Kaminsky and Donna Gelb PRINCIPAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY SANTIAGO SOTO MONLLOR Get Up and Get Out Some years ago, it struck me how settled in our ways we have all become. Our evenings take us from the office to the couch, from the couch to the kitchen, from the kitchen to the easy chair by the television, and from the easy chair to bed. I realized that for most people, the mere thought of grabbing a basket packed with a picnic and thinking of an outdoor space to enjoy was just that . . . only a thought. So I decided to make a TV show to prompt them out into the wild. It would be based on the simplest recipes, requiring barely any equipment. I began the first show by putting on my favorite tweed jacket, a hat, and some walking boots. I put a potato in my left pocket and a tin cup with two eggs in my right pocket, along with a metal spoon, salt, pepper, and a chunk of butter wrapped in paper. I held an onion in my hand and, instead of an Hermès handkerchief, I stuck a handful of fresh parsley in the top pocket of my jacket. Then I walked into the hills until I got to a nice stream, where I started piling up fallen branches to start my fire. From the streambed, I selected a large, flat gray stone with a slight hollow in the middle, just like a soup plate. I still remember looking through the clear running water, searching for just the right stone. How many years had this one been there, I wondered. Maybe it had been tossed up by a volcano and then worn smooth by the caress of snowmelt. I propped up my cooking stone on two rocks set on either side of the fire and let it warm up. Stones, especially those from a stream, must be heated very slowly for cooking to prevent them from cracking or bursting apart, as any water trapped within turns to steam, eager to escape. I took the small outdoorsman’s knife that always hangs from my belt on my country walks, set the onion on my knee, and chopped it, dampening my jeans in the process. I tossed the diced onions in butter, which I’d melted in the bowl of the stone. I cut the potato into thin round slices and added them to the onion. After about forty minutes of sizzling, they were cooked to tenderness. That was the moment to crack the eggs and fold them in with my spoon. I tore the parsley apart and threw it in as well. Salt, pepper, and an extra pat of butter finished my lunch, with some chilled water from the stream served in my tin cup. Using a nearby log as table and chair, I thoroughly enjoyed the lunch that launched seven seasons of cooking on TV. My advice to you: turn the off television and go outside. CONTENTS GET UP AND GET OUT ON TOP OF THE WORLD BY PETER KAMINSKY SOY PATAGÓN MY FIRES Appetizers and Salads TRAVELS WITH FIRE PARIS, FRANCE Light Meals TRAVELS WITH FIRE LA RUTA AZUL, PATAGONIA Beef, Lamb, and Pork ANYTIME, ANYWHERE TRAVELS WITH FIRE NEW YORK, NEW YORK Birds IN THE SNOW TRAVELS WITH FIRE GARZÓN, URUGUAY Fish and Shellfish Vegetables and Beans TRAVELS WITH FIRE TRANCOSO, BRAZIL Desserts TEXTILES Country Breads TRAVELS WITH FIRE “THE ISLAND,” PATAGONIA Basics SOME IMPORTANT TOOLS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS INDEX
Description: