Making Textiles in pre-Roman and Roman Times: People, Places, Identities

257 Pages·2013·55.749 MB·English

by  Margarita Gleba, Judit Pásztókai-Szeőke

ANCIENT TEXTILES SERIES VOL. 13
MAKING TEXTILES
IN PRE-ROMAN AND ROMAN TIMES
PEOPLE, PLACES, IDENTITIES
edited by
Margarita Gleba and Judit Pásztókai-Szeőke
Oxbow Books
Oxford and Oakville
Published by
Oxbow Books, Oxford, UK
© Oxbow Books and the individual authors 2013
Hardback ISBN: 978-1-84217-767-9
E-pub ISBN: 978-1-84217-900-0
Mobi ISBN: 978-1-84217-901-7
PDF ISBN: 978-1-84217-902-4
This book is available direct from
Oxbow Books, Oxford UK
and
The David Brown Book Company
PO Box 511, Oakville, CT 06779, USA
(Phone: [phone]; Fax: [phone])
or via our website
www.oxbowbooks.com
A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Making textiles in pre-Roman and Roman times : people, places, identities / edited by Margarita
Gleba and Judit Pásztókai-Szeőke.
1 online resource. -- (Ancient textiles series ; vol. 13)
Includes bibliographical references and index.
Description based on print version record and CIP data provided by publisher; resource not viewed.
ISBN 978-1-84217-900-0 (epub) -- ISBN 978-1-84217-901-7 (prc) -- ISBN 978-1-84217-902-4 ( pdf) --
ISBN 978-1-84217-767-9
1. Textile fabrics, Prehistoric--Italy. 2. Textile fabrics, Roman. 3. Textile industry--Italy--History-
-To 1500. 4. Textile industry--Rome--History. I. Gleba, Margarita, author, editor of compilation. II.
P?szt?kai-Szeoke, Judit, editor of compmilation.
GN799.T43
677.00937--dc23
2013039194
Front Cover: Pompeii, house VI 8, 20–21.2, a scene of fuller and clients, fresco now in the
Naples Archaeological Museum
Ancient Textiles Series Editorial Committee:
Eva Andersson Strand, Ulla Mannering, Margarita Gleba and Marie-Louise Nosch, editors
Contents
Preface
by Margarita Gleba ....................................................................................................................v
Maps .......................................................................................................................................vii
Introduction
by John Peter Wild .................................................................................................................xiv
1. Transformations in Textile Production and Exchange in pre-Roman Italy
by Margarita Gleba ..............................................................................................................1
2. Textile Making in Central Tyrrhenian Italy – Questions Related to
Age, Rank and Status
by Sanna Lipkin ..................................................................................................................19
3. Discovering the People behind the Textiles: Iron Age Textile Producers
and their Products in Austria
by Karina Grömer ...............................................................................................................30
4. Textile Production and Trade in Roman Noricum
by Kordula Gostenčnik .......................................................................................................60
5. Craftspeople, Merchants or Clients? The Evidence of Personal
Names on the Commercial Lead Tags from Siscia
by Ivan Radman-Livaja .....................................................................................................87
6. Female Work and Identity in Roman Textile Production and Trade:
A Methodological Discussion
by Lena Larsson Lovén ....................................................................................................109
7. Trade, Traders and Guilds (?) in Textiles: the Case of Southern Gaul
and Northern Italy (1st–3rd Centuries AD)
by Jinyu Liu .....................................................................................................................126
iv Contents
8. Textile Trade in the Periplus of the Erythraean Sea
by Manuel Albaladejo Vivero ........................................................................................142
9. Textiles and their Merchants in Rome’s Eastern Trade
by Kerstin Droß-Krüpe ..................................................................................................149
10. (In)visible Spinners in the Documentary Papyri from Roman Egypt
by Sophie Gällnö ............................................................................................................161
11. Textile Production Centres, Products and Merchants in the Roman
Province of Asia
by Isabella Benda-Weber...............................................................................................171
12. Ulula, Quinquatrus and the Occupational Identity of Fullones
in Early Imperial Italy
by Miko Flohr ................................................................................................................192
13. A ‘Private’ Felter’s Workshop in the Casa dei Postumii in Pompeii
by Jens-Arne Dickmann ................................................................................................208
Index ....................................................................................................................................229
Preface
Textile production is an economic necessity that has confronted all societies in the
past. Although different cultures have found different solutions to the problem, most
have combined production and trade to varying degrees. While most textiles were
manufactured at a household level, valued textiles in particular were traded over long
distances and this was influenced by raw material supply and costs, labour skills and
costs as well as tradition.
In the Mediterranean regions, the evidence for textile trade is especially abundant
for the Roman times, well documented by the archaeological finds and written sources.
Documents such as Periplus Maris Erythraei or Diocletian’s Edict of Prices illustrate the
typological and geographical diversity of textile commodities that circulated within
and beyond the Roman Empire. They make it possible to identify regional products,
to locate production centres and to obtain information on the organisation and
infrastructure of production and trade.
The present volume originates in a workshop “Work and Identity: The agents of
textile production and exchange in the Roman period”, which took place on 7 June 2009
in Hallstatt, Austria. The workshop was organised by Study Group E (Production and
Trade) of the international project Clothing and Identities in the Roman World (DressID).
The aim of this study group during 2008–2010 was to approach the investigation
of textile production and trade in the Roman Empire and beyond its borders by
focusing in particular on the identity of the agents involved in these activities, i.e.
textile producers, traders and consumers. Some of the questions explored were: who
produced and distributed textiles and clothing; how was production organised; what
was the social status of the agents involved and could it change during their working
life; how did their profession affect personal identity.
While most of the articles in this volume originated as papers during the workshop
in Hallstatt, several contributions were added during the editing process in order to
broaden the scope of the topic (Radman-Livaja, Larsson Lovèn, Gällnö, Dickmann).
Furthermore, while the volume focuses on the Roman period, some articles address
the issues connected to textile production and trade during the preceding period
(Gleba, Lipkin, Grömer).
Each essay is a separate chapter with footnotes and bibliography. We have
attempted to be consistent, while keeping the individual authors’ styles, including
their choice of American or British orthography and punctuation. Our thanks go
vi Preface
to non-native English speakers for writing in English or having their contributions
translated into English. Latin and Greek sources are abbreviated according to The
Oxford Classical Dictionary. Other common abbreviations include:
AE L’Année épigraphique
CIG Corpus Inscriptionum Graecarum
CIL Corpus Inscriptionum Latinarum
ILLPRON Inscriptionum Lapidariarum Latinarum Provinciae Norici
ILS H. Dessau, ed., Inscriptiones latinae selectae (1892–1916)
IG Inscriptiones Graecae
OLD Oxford Latin Dictionary
PECS R. Stillwell et al., eds, Princeton Encyclopedia of Classical Sites (Princeton 1976)
SEG Supplementum Epigraphicum Graecum
TLL Thesaurus Linguae Latinae
The workshop and the publication of the present volume were generously funded by
the European Education, Audiovisual and Culture Executive Agency’s DressID project
and the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research. We also
wish to thank the organisers of the DressID meeting in Austria, Karina Grömer and
Anton Kern (Natural History Museum in Vienna) for all the logistical support in
Hallstatt; Cherine Munkholt (CTR) for her invaluable help with editing; John Peter
Wild for writing the introduction to the volume; and Yevgeny Kokorin for creating
the maps.
Margarita Gleba
10 September 2012
MAPS
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