LOST MAYA CITIES Publication of this book was made possible by a generous gift from Ken Jones. L O S T M A Y A C I T I E S Archaeological Quests in the Mexican Jungle Ivan Šprajc Translation by Petra Zaranšek and Dean Joseph DeVos TEXAS A&M UNIVERSITY PRESS COLLEGE STATION Copyright © 2020 by Ivan Šprajc All rights reserved First edition This paper meets the requirements of ANSI/NISO Z39.48–1992 (Permanence of Paper). Binding materials have been chosen for durability. Manufactured in China through Four Colour Print Group Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Šprajc, Ivan, author. | Zaranšek, Petra, translator. | DeVos, Dean, translator. Title: Lost Maya cities : archaeological quests in the Mexican jungle / Ivan Šprajc ; translation by Petra Zaranšek and Dean Joseph DeVos. Other titles: Izgubljena mesta. Slovenian Description: First edition. | College Station, [Texas] : Texas A&M University Press, [2020] | Includes index. Identifiers: LCCN 2019035609 | ISBN 9781623498214 (trade paperback) | ISBN 9781623498221 (ebook) Subjects: LCSH: Šprajc, Ivan—Career in archaeology. | Šprajc, Ivan—Travel—Mexico. | Šprajc, Ivan—Travel—Yucatán Peninsula. | Mayas—Mexico—Antiquities. | Mayas— Yucatán Peninsula—Antiquities. | Excavations (Archaeology)—Mexico. | Excavations (Archaeology)—Yucatán Peninsula. | Mexico—Description and travel. | Yucatán Peninsula—Description and travel. | Mexico—Antiquities. | Yucatán Peninsula— Antiquities. | LCGFT: Autobiographies. | Travel writing. Classification: LCC F1435 .S7913 2020 | DDC 972/.01—dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2019035609 To Silvia Contents 1. The Maya and Their Land ......................................... 1 2. Studying the Maya ............................................6 3. A Meeting ........................................................13 4. Becán .............................................................16 5. Justo Sierra Méndez ..............................................23 6. Defilers of Tombs .................................................31 7. High-Level Security Detail .......................................39 8. Los Alacranes .....................................................44 9. Buried City .......................................................51 10. Snakes Aren’t Only in the Jungle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 11. The King Is Coming ..............................................66 12. State and Federation ..............................................71 13. El Comandante ...................................................81 14. Run Out of Bush .................................................86 15. Pyramid of the Sorcerer ..........................................90 16. In the Underworld ...............................................97 17. Balakbal and Altamira ...........................................101 18. Altar of the Kings ................................................112 19. Forgotten ........................................................119 20. Where Is Pared de los Reyes? ....................................125 21. A Mistake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136 22. Oxpemul ........................................................143 23. The City of Stelae and Altars ....................................149 24. Miscellanea ......................................................155 25. Tree on a House .................................................163 26. A Long Way .....................................................172 27. From Paixbán to Uxul ...........................................183 28. Four Stelae ......................................................190 29. Great Effort and Little Reward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 30. Where Is Ruppert’s Diary Leading Us? ...........................199 31. The Wall of the Kings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205 32. Far from the Trail ................................................216 33. Fruitless Search ..................................................223 34. Terra Incognita ..................................................230 35. Río Bec Dreams .................................................239 36. Red Stone .......................................................244 37. Deep Well .......................................................260 38. In the Maw of a Monster ........................................265 39. The Story of Lagunita ...........................................272 40. A New Acquisition ..............................................275 41. The Known and Unknown Maya ................................282 42. Deluge ...........................................................288 43. Saved ............................................................299 Further Reading ......................................................305 Index .................................................................309 viii Contents