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Long Island Alive! (Hunter Travel Guides) PDF

601 Pages·2002·4.52 MB·English
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Preview Long Island Alive! (Hunter Travel Guides)

AA LL II VV EE !! FrancineSilverman HunterPublishing,Inc. 130CampusDrive Edison,NJ08818-7816 (cid:1)732-225-1900/800-255-0343/Fax732-417-1744 Website:www.hunterpublishing.com E-mail:[email protected] INCANADA UlyssesTravelPublications 4176Saint-Denis,Montréal,Québec CanadaH2W2M5 (cid:1)514-843-9882ext.2232/fax514-843-9448 INTHEUK WindsorBooksInternational TheBoundary,WheatleyRoad Garsington,OxfordOX449EJEngland (cid:1)01865-361122/Fax01865-361133 ISBN1-58843-321-8 ©2003HunterPublishing,Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be repro- duced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmittedinanyform, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, record- ing, or otherwise, without the written permission of the pub- lisher. Thisguidefocusesonrecreationalactivities.Asallsuchactivi- tiescontainelementsofrisk,thepublisher,author,affiliatedin- dividuals and companies disclaim any responsibility for any injury,harm,orillnessthatmayoccurtoanyonethrough,orby useof,theinformationinthisbook.Everyeffortwasmadetoin- suretheaccuracyofinformationinthisbook,butthepublisher andauthordonotassume,andherebydisclaim,anyliabilityfor lossordamagecausedbyerrors,omissions,misleadinginforma- tion or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if sucherrorsoromissionsresultfromnegligence,accidentorany othercause. Cover:SagHarbor,LongIsland ©Superstock MapsbyToniWheeler, ©2003HunterPublishing,Inc. IndexbyNancyWolff 4 3 2 1 About the Author Francine Silverman is a veteran feature writer for newspa- persandmagazines.Shehonedherskillsasareporterwith GannettWestchesterNewspapersinYonkers,NewYork,and asafreelancer.HertravelarticleshaveappearedinTheIn- quirer(Philadelphia),TheRecord(NJ),NewYorkPost,River, Camperways, Travel Smart newsletter, Travel Agent Maga- zine,MotorHome,andinflightsKiwi,MabuhayandPassport Sabena. These days her passion is travel writing, and Cat- skills Alive! marked the capstone of her career. That guide- bookisgoingintoitssecondeditionand,sheisconfident,so willLongIslandAlive! Bookmarktheauthor’sWebsiteatwww.nystatetravel.com.It willsaveyoutime–thesitehaslinkstomanyofthesitesfea- turedinbothguidebooks. About the Alive Guides Reliable, detailed and personally researched by knowledge- ableauthors,theAlive!serieswasfoundedbyHarrietandAr- noldGreenberg. This accomplished travel-writing team established the re- nownedbookstore,TheCompleteTraveller,at199Madison AvenueinNewYorkCity. Dedication To Ron and Amy and our loving Long Island cousins, Betsy andMichaelGluckman. ToTonyMattiforhelpingusrelivefondmemoriesofFireIs- land. Thisbookisalsodedicatedtothedisproportionatenumberof LongIslanderswholostlovedonesonSeptember11,2001. Acknowledgments Writing a guidebook requires the cooperation of hundreds of people.I’vemetsomanywonderfulfolksonLongIsland–res- idents,merchants,proprietors,governmentemployees–that it’s impossible to name them all. I’m especially grateful to thosewhoopenedtheirhomesandheartstome. I’dliketoexpressmydeepappreciationtomypublisher,Mi- chael Hunter, and editor, Lissa Dailey, for their continued supportandguidance. We Love to Get Mail Thisbookhasbeencarefullyresearchedtobringyoucurrent, accurate information. But no place is unchanging. We wel- come your comments for future editions. Please write us at AliveGuides,c/oHunterPublishing,130CampusDrive,Edi- son,NJ08818,ore-mailyourcommentstocomments@hun- terpublishing.com.Duetothevolumeofmailwereceive,we regret that we cannot personally reply to each letter or message,butyourcommentsaregreatlyappreciatedandwill beread. Contents Introduction History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Geology&Geography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Environment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 LongIslandLiving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 GettingHere&GettingAround . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Recreation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 ShopTillYouDrop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 AfterDark. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 BestPlacestoStay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 BestPlacestoEat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 InformationSources. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Nassau County’s North Shore GettingHere&GettingAround . . . . . . . . . . . 30 SunuptoSundown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Recreation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 ShopTillYouDrop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 AfterDark. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Festivals&Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 BestPlacestoStay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 BestPlacestoEat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 NorthShoreAtoZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Nassau County’s South Shore GettingHere&GettingAround . . . . . . . . . . . 91 SunuptoSundown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Recreation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 ShopTillYouDrop. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 AfterDark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Festivals&Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 BestPlacestoStay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 BestPlacestoEat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 SouthShoreAtoZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 vi LongIslandAlive! Suffolk County’s North Shore GettingHere&GettingAround . . . . . . . . . . 177 SunuptoSundown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Recreation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 ShopTillYouDrop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 AfterDark. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Festivals&Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 BestPlacestoStay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 BestPlacestoEat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 NorthShoreAtoZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 Suffolk County’s South Shore GettingHere&GettingAround . . . . . . . . . . 263 SunuptoSundown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Recreation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 ShopTillYouDrop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291 AfterDark. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 Festivals&Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 BestPlacestoStay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 BestPlacestoEat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 SouthShoreAtoZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 Fire Island GettingHere . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 GettingAround. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 SunuptoSundown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Recreation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 ShopTillYouDrop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 BestPlacestoStay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327 BestPlacestoEat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 FireIslandAtoZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 Suffolk County’s North Fork ABriefHistory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 GettingHere&GettingAround . . . . . . . . . . 337 SunuptoSundown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 Recreation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 ShopTillYouDrop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380 AfterDark. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Festivals&Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388 BestPlacestoStay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389 Contents vii BestPlacestoEat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407 NorthForkAtoZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416 Suffolk County’s South Fork TheHamptons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 423 GettingHere&GettingAround. . . . . . . . . . . 425 SunuptoSundown. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432 Recreation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460 ShopTillYouDrop. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 487 AfterDark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 497 Festivals&Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 502 BestPlacestoStay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 503 BestPlacestoEat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 533 SouthForkAtoZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 552 Farm Markets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 569 Maps AreasCoveredinthisBook. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . viii LongIsland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 NassauCounty’sNorthShore. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 NassauCounty’sSouthShore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 SuffolkCounty’sNorthShore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 SuffolkCounty’sSouthShore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 FireIsland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 SuffolkCounty’sNorthFork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 SuffolkCounty’sSouthFork:TheHamptons . . . . . . 426 Introduction I n t r o F d orthepurposesofthisbook,IhaveusedtheLong u c Island Expressway (I-495 or the LIE) as the di- t io vidinglinebetweentheNorthandSouthShores;chap- n ters are arranged geographically from west to east. Fire Island has its own chapter, as do the North and SouthForksoftheeasternendofLongIsland,though theyareallpartofSuffolkCounty. Whenbordersgetblurred,theplacementoflistingscan besubjective.TheNorthShore’sfamedGoldCoast,for example, runs through Nassau County to Centerport inSuffolkCounty.Inthiscase,IputtheGoldCoastin NassauCounty,wheremostofthesightsarelocated. Riverhead straddles both the North Shore of Suffolk County and the North Fork. However, since more at- tractions and wineries are in its eastern section, I placed Riverhead in the Suffolk County’s North Fork chapter. History IndianshavelivedonLongIslandformorethan4,000 years. Their first contact with Europeans occurred about 500 years ago. Historians estimate that there were 13 groups on the island (Europeans called them tribes). These Algonquians were more peaceful than theirbrethrenonthemainland. AsDutchsettlements spreadacrossLongIslandfromwesttoeast,theIndi- anstaughtthesettlershowtofishandtoplantandfer- tilizecorn. Thispeacefulcoexistencewasshort-lived,however.In 1644,dissentersfromthePuritanregimesinNewEng- landcrossedtheLongIslandSoundandbegantosettle theeasternendoftheIsland.ThegrowthofDutchset- tlements on the western end led to conflicts between the Dutch and English. In 1650, in an attempt to re- solve the tensions, the two groups agreed on a border

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