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Lonely Planet Sri Lanka PDF

355 Pages·2018·16.88 MB·English
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P D F Sri Lanka PDF ebook Edition 14th Edition Release Date Jan 2018 Pages 352 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. 4 easy-to-use How to use this book sections Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 4 Sights Sleeping r 5 Beaches Eating 2 6 PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking C 3 Courses Entertainment Your planning tool kit T 7 Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping you create the perfect trip. z Festivals 8 Information & Events & Transport All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by writer preference. ON THE ROAD Your complete guide Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips. These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required % Telephone number f Ferry UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms s Swimming pool r rooms v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites c Family-friendly tr triple rooms # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms g Bus SURVIVAL GUIDE Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. Vital practical information for a smooth trip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sri Lanka Jaffna & the North p270 The The Ancient West Cities Coast p202 p87 The East p243 Colombo The Hill #_ p56 Country p149 The South p106 Anirban Mahapatra, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Bradley Mayhew, Iain Stewart P LAN ON THE ROAD YOUR TRIP Welcome to Sri Lanka . . . 4 COLOMBO . . . . . . . . . 56 THE SOUTH . . . . . . . 106 Sri Lanka Map . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Galle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Sri Lanka’s Top 20 . . . . . . .8 THE WEST COAST . . 87 Unawatuna & Around . . . 118 Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .18 North of Colombo . . . . .89 Thalpe & Koggala . . . . . . . 123 First Time Sri Lanka . . . 20 Negombo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Ahangama & Midigama . . 125 Waikkal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Weligama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Negombo Mirissa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 23 to Kalpitiya . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Matara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Month by Month . . . . . . . 26 Kalpitiya Peninsula . . . . . . 95 Dondra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Wilpattu Talalla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Dikwella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Eat & Drink Like a Local 34 South of Colombo . . . . .97 Hiriketiya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Beaches & Activities . . . 39 Bentota, Aluthgama Goyambokka . . . . . . . . . . . 136 National Parks & Induruwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Tangalla & Around . . . . . . 137 & Safaris . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Hikkaduwa & Around . . . . 101 Travel with Children . . . . . 51 Regions at a Glance . . . . 53 BONCHAN / SHUTTERSTOCK © EFESENKO /SHUTTERSTOCK © EGG HOPPER P36 TRPHOTOS / SHUTTERSTOCK © POLONNARUWA P215 ISURUMUNIYA VIHARA P234, ANURADHAPURA Contents UNDERSTAND Bundala Polonnaruwa . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Sri Lanka National Park . . . . . . . . . . 140 Giritale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .294 Tissamaharama . . . . . . . . 141 Minneriya & Kaudulla History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Kirinda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 National Parks . . . . . . . . . 226 Environmental Yala National Park . . . . . . 145 Ritigala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Issues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Kataragama . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Anuradhapura . . . . . . . . . . 228 The People of Mihintale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 Sri Lanka . . . . . . . . . . . . .312 THE Yapahuwa HILL COUNTRY . . . . 149 Rock Fortress . . . . . . . . . . 240 Sri Lankan Tea . . . . . . . .316 Panduwasnuwara . . . . . . .241 Colombo to Kandy . . . . . . 151 Ridi Vihara . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 SURVIVAL Kandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Kurunegala . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 GUIDE Around Kandy . . . . . . . . . . 163 Knuckles Range . . . . . . . . 167 THE EAST . . . . . . . . . 243 Kitulgala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .320 Adam’s Peak Monaragala . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 326 (Sri Pada) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Yudaganawa . . . . . . . . . . . 245 Kandy to Maligawila . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331 Nuwara Eliya . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Arugam Bay . . . . . . . . . . . .246 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 Nuwara Eliya . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Pottuvil & Around . . . . . . . 251 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Horton Plains National Arugam Bay Park & World’s End . . . . . 181 to Panama . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 350 Belihul Oya . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Panama to Okanda . . . . . 253 Haputale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Ampara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Bandarawela . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Batticaloa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Ella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Kalkudah Around Ella . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 & Passekudah . . . . . . . . . . 260 Wellawaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Trincomalee . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Uda Walawe Uppuveli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 195 Nilaveli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 Sinharaja Forest Reserve . . . . . . . . . 197 SPECIAL JAFFNA & Ratnapura . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 THE NORTH . . . . . . . 270 FEATURES Jaffna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Eat & Drink THE Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 34 ANCIENT CITIES . . . 202 Jaffna Peninsula . . . . . . . . 280 Jaffna’s Islands . . . . . . . . . 285 Beaches & Activities . . . 39 Matale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Kilinochchi & Around . . . . 288 National Parks Nalanda Gedige . . . . . . . . 204 Vavuniya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288 & Safaris . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Dambulla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Mannar Island Historic Sri Lanka . . . . . 78 Sigiriya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 Habarana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Galle Town Walk: The Historic Fort . . . . . .112 Ancient Cities . . . . . . . . 219 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 4 Welcome to Sri Lanka Endless beaches, timeless ruins, welcoming people, oodles of elephants, rolling surf, cheap prices, fun trains, famous tea and flavourful food make Sri Lanka irresistible. The Undiscovered Country Rainforests & Beaches You might say Sri Lanka has been hiding When you’re ready to escape the tropical in plain sight. Countless scores of travellers climate of the coast and lowlands, head for have passed overhead on their way to some- the hills, with their temperate, achingly place else, but years of uncertainty kept Sri green charms. Verdant tea plantations and Lanka off many itineraries. rainforested peaks beckon walkers, trekkers Now, however, all that has changed. and those who just want to see them from The country is moving forward quickly as a spectacular train ride. And then there are more and more people discover its myriad the beaches. Dazzlingly white and often un- charms. Lying between the more trod- trodden, they ring the island so that no mat- den parts of India and Southeast Asia, Sri ter where you go, you’ll be near a sandy gem. Lanka’s history, culture and natural beauty Should you beat the inevitable languor, you are undeniably alluring. It’s the place you can surf and dive world-class sites without haven’t been to yet, that you should. world-class crowds. And you’re always just a short hop from something utterly new. So Much in So Little It’s So Easy Few places have as many Unesco World Herit- age Sites (eight) packed into such a small area. Distances are short: see the sacred home Sri Lanka’s 2000-plus years of culture can be of the world’s oldest living human-planted discovered at ancient sites where legend ary tree in the morning (Anuradhapura) and temples boast beautiful details even as they stand awestruck by the sight of hundreds of shelter in caves or perch on prominent peaks. elephants gathering in the afternoon (Min- More recent are evocative colonial fortresses, neriya). Discover a favourite beach, meditate from Galle to Trincomalee. in a 2000-year-old temple, exchange smiles Across the island, that thing that goes while strolling a mellow village, marvel at bump in the night might be an elephant birds and wildflowers, try to keep count of heading to a favourite waterhole. Safari the little dishes that come with your rice tours of Sri Lanka’s pleasantly relaxed and curry. Wander past colonial gems in national parks encounter leopards, water Colombo, then hit some epic surf. Sri Lanka buffaloes, all manner of birds and a passel is spectacular, affordable and still often un- of primates. crowded. Now is the best time to discover it. 5 KUZINA / SHUTTERSTOCK © Why I Love Sri Lanka By Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Writer My fascination with Sri Lanka began when I read Paul Theroux’s The Great Railway Bazaar as a child. His wonderment at the island’s endless contradictions stayed with me. In 2004 I was in the west and south in the weeks after the tsunami. I was struck by the stories of the survivors. In the years since, I have been endlessly amazed by the ability of Sri Lankans to overcome disaster, war and other challenges. And I am slack-jawed at how one small island- nation can embody so much beauty and wonder. It seems so much bigger than it is. For more about our writers, see p352 Above: Traditional fishing, Galle (p107) m k e050#025miles 82°E ELEVATION 2000m1500m1000m500m250m0 Nilavelie undiscoveredaches (p267) SigiriyaA stunning rocksurrounded by gardens (p209) PolonnaruwaThousand-year-old buildingsand monuments (p215) me Prib 81°E JaffnaMyriad sights, Tamil culture,remote islands (p272) B A Y O FB E N G A LMullaittivu#\ KokkilaiLagoon Nilaveli#\ Trincomalee#\ Foul PointMutur#\ayUllackalieO333333333333333333LagoonnSomawathiyaaYChaitiyaNational ParkEDA#÷ATirikonamadu333333333333333UpparNature#÷LagoonReserveMinneriyaFlood Plains- Giritale#\National ParkSanctuarya#÷#÷3333333333333#\SigiriyaPolonnaruwa#\ Point#\Pedro JaffnaLagoon#\Pooneryn Kilinochchi#\ UTURUPALATAu Mankulam#\ Vavuniya33#\ 3333#\Medawachchiya 33#\Mihintale#^AnuradhapuraUTURUMPALAT 333Habaran #^Jaffna IranaitivSouth 33WilpattuNational3Park#÷ 3 ri Lanka 80°E Karaitivu PalkStraitVelanaiNainativu Neduntivu PalkBay IranaitivuNDIANorth#\ameswaram Talaimannar#õ#\ MannarIsland Gulf ofMannar3AnuradhapuraAmazing cultural andreligious heritage (p228) 3PortugalBay 3#\Kalpitiya 3Puttalam#\ S IR N N 9° 8° #\ Horton PlainsWild and windsweptmoorlands (p181) EllaCatch a train throughtea country (p188)333333Akkaraipattu#] 3HaputaleExcellent base to exploretea plantations (p184)3Pottuvil#\ Panama#\333Okanda Arugam Bay333Surfing paradise (p246) 33da Walawe National ParkBuffalo, crocodiles andelephants (p195) Bundala National ParkOne of Sri Lanka’s finestbirding destinations (p140) atticaloa#^ 3333333333para#\ 333333333#\KumanaNationalPark333333333#÷ 333333333333333333333U B m a 333333333333Dambulla#\ WAYAMBA333333333333PALATANEGENAHIRAWasgomuwaPALATANationalPark#÷#\PadeniyaMaduru OyaMADHYAMANational ParkPALATA#÷Maha Oya3333333333333Knuckles#\aRangeyKurunegala#^O(1863m)#\MaRMatalehaPeakadMWildernessu3333Polgahawela33r33333Sanctuaryu#\#÷AOKandy#^ya #–3333333Gal Oya333333333Nationala-ElaPark#]Pidurutalagala#÷#\Gampaha(Mt Pedro)UVABadullaKitulgala(2524m)R#^PALATA#\#\Nuwara Eliya333333333333333333333333333333#\Avissawella#_Kotalawala#\EllaTotapola#\Horton PlainsMonaragal#\#\(2357m)#–Adam's PeakNational ParkRBandarawela(Sri Pada)#\#÷RR(2243m)BASNAHIRAHaputaleKirigalpotta#\33333333333333PALATA33(2395m)#\WellawayaBelihul#\Oya#^RatnapuraPelmadulla#\Yala StrictSABARAGAMUWA333333333333333Nature33Uda Walawe333ReservePALATANational Park#÷#÷SinharajaBeruwela#\taragamaKaForestAluthgama#\#\ReserveBentota#\#÷Embilipitiya#\3333333333333333333333333333333#\InduruwaDeniyaya#\Tissamaharama#\ DAKUNUKirinda#\Angunakolapelessa#÷PALATA#\KottawaHikkaduwa3Bundala3#\ConservationAkuressaNational Park#\Forest#÷Tangalla#^Galle#\#\WeligamaUnawatuna#\Tangalla#\Matara#\33Great beaches ofMirissaall stripes (p137) KandyThe cultural capitalof the island (p151) I N D I A NO C E A N Negombo#]ColomboColonial charms andJascinating shopping (p56) COLOMBOMt Lavinia Adam’s Peak A beautiful andhistoric walk (p170) BeruwelaA centre for Ayurvedicrejuvenation (p100) GalleUnmissably historic fortand splendid food (p107) MirissaSee blue whales ona boat excursion (p127) f N N 7° 6° ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 88 Sri Lanka’s Top 20 Stunning Beaches Travelling by Train 1 There are long, golden-specked ones, there 2 Sometimes there’s no way to get a seat are dainty ones with soft white sand, there on the slow but oh-so-popular train to are wind- and wave-battered ones, and ones Ella (p188; pictured right), but with a prime without a footstep for miles. Some have a standing-room-only spot looking out at a rolling slowly, slowly vibe and some have a lively party carpet of tea, who cares? Outside, the colourful vibe, but whichever you choose, the beaches silk saris of Tamil tea pickers stand out in the of Sri Lanka really are every bit as gorgeous sea of green; inside, you may get a shy welcome as you’ve heard. In a land where beaches are via a smile. At stations, vendors hustle treats, simply countless, consider the beaches of Tan- including some amazing corn and chilli fritters galla (p137; pictured below), each with its own sold wrapped in somebody’s old homework personality, and each beguiling in its own way, paper. Munching one of these while the scenery yet all easily visited in a day. creaks past? Sublime. 1 FILIP FUXA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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