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GETTING THE MOST OUT OF LONELY PLANET MAPS E-reader devices vary in their ability to show our maps. To get the most out of the maps in this guide, use the zoom function on your device. Or, visit http://media.lonelyplanet.com/ebookmaps and grab a PDF download or print out all the maps in this guide. Plan Your Trip Welcome to Southeastern Europe Top Experiences Need to Know If You Like… Month by Month Itineraries Countries at a Glance Top of section welcome to Southeastern Europe Cobblestone streets, fairy tale forests, wine regions, medieval towns, sandy beaches, ancient ruins, cosmopolitan capitals, spice bazaars, haunted castles and a couple of thousand islands. Adventure, anyone? St Stephen’s Square (Click here), Hvar Island, Croatia JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET/GETTY IMAGES © Ripe for Adventure Your timing couldn’t be better. Countries that were once hard going have oiled the infrastructure and rolled out the welcome mat. Cities that once made headlines for all the wrong reasons are now impressing with their diversity and authenticity. Landmarks that were all but obliterated in the 1990s – such as Mostar’s iconic 16th century stone bridge and Dubrovnik’s Old Town walls – have been painstakingly resurrected. Beyond the sights to be seen though, it’s the unabashed hospitality that makes each day spent in Southeastern Europe surprising. A quiet lunch by yourself can quickly morph into dinner by the seaside with enthusiastic locals who won’t hear of you not trying everything on the menu. This is a region brimming with fresh adventures, more accessible than ever before. Great Outdoors Rocky mountains and terracotta towns plunge spectacularly into the Adriatic Sea along the Croatian and Albanian Riviera. Greece and Turkey make the most of Aegean islands, which boast the perfect marriage of azure waters and blinding white buildings. Parts of Southeastern Europe have been luring outdoor adventurers for centuries, but some pockets are only now being added to adrenalin junkies’ do-before-you-die lists. Dramatic mountains like Romania’s Bucegi, Bulgaria’s Rodopi and Albania’s ominous ‘Accursed Mountains’ are made for hiking and biking , while there are wild rivers to raft in Bosnia and Hercegovina as well as Slovenia. For those who would rather just absorb the great outdoors than set out to conquer it, some of the ferry rides in Southeastern Europe glide you past idyllic scenery incomparable to any in the world. Church detail, Sofia (Click here), Bulgaria DOUG MCKINLAY/GETTY IMAGES © Home to History Though change is coming on quickly, timeless traditions and cultural customs aren’t falling by the wayside. Blood feuds in some parts aren’t as ancient as they ought to be and pastoral scenes are still as home grown as they ever were. It’s a region where you can barely keep up with the nightlife, but will still get stuck behind a horse and cart. Urban landscapes are a pop-up book of ancient architecture on a grand scale, and winding Ottoman streets are punctuated by Austro-Hungarian villas and the occasional communist concrete block. Throw in Gothic castles, Roman ruins and Venetian facades, then wrap it all in a medieval wall and plonk it by the sea. History isn’t just ancient in Southeastern Europe, it’s epic. This was the home of the Spartans, the birthplace of Zeus, and the battle ground of the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires; a stroll through town can evoke the rise and fall of civilisations. Top of section TOP EXPERIENCES Ancient Landmarks, Greece 1 From Athens’ renowned Acropolis to the skeletal remains of Knossos, Greece ( Click here ) offers some of Europe’s most impressive historical sights. There’s the oracular Temple of Apollo at Delphi, perched above the Gulf of Corinth; Olympia, home to the first Olympic Games; Epidavros’ acoustically perfect theatre; and the mystical Sanctuary of Asclepius. Olive and orange groves surround the vast ruins of Mystras, a one-time part of the Byzantine Empire. Start with the Acropolis and follow the path of history all over Greece’s landscape. The Parthenon, Athens RICARDO DE MATTOS/GETTY IMAGES © İstanbul, Turkey 2 Straddling Europe and Asia, İstanbul ( Click here ) is one of the world’s greatest cities. Once the capital of the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires, its heritage can still be seen in the buildings which cluster around Sultanahmet, including the Aya Sofya, Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace and Grand Bazaar. After marvelling at their glittering interiors, it’s time to experience this 13-million-strong metropolis’ vibrant contemporary life. Cross the Galata Bridge, passing ferries and fish kebap stands, to Beyoğlu, full of chic rooftop bars and rowdy taverns. Nightlife in Beyoğlu ANDREA PISTOLESI/ GETTY IMAGES © Bay of Kotor, Montenegro 3 There’s a sense of secrecy and mystery to the Bay of Kotor ( Click here ). Grey mountain walls rise steeply from steely blue waters, getting higher and higher as you progress through their folds to the hidden reaches of the inner bay. There, ancient stone settlements hug the shoreline, with Kotor’s ancient alleyways concealed in its innermost reaches, behind hefty stone walls. Talk about drama! But you wouldn’t expect anything else of the Balkans, where life is exuberantly Mediterranean, lived full of passion on these ancient streets. ALEXEY GALYZIN/GETTY IMAGES © Meteora, Greece 4 Meteora’s ( Click here ) towering rock spires are a stunning natural sight in their own right, but even more incredible are the elaborate 14th-century monasteries built on top of them. There were originally 24 monasteries (one for each pinnacle) though nowadays only six remain, accessible by stairs cut into the rock. Make the ascent and you’re rewarded with breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape and, on quiet days, a sense of almost otherworldly serenity. For a completely different experience, Meteora’s vertical peaks provide superb rock climbing. Monastery of Agias Varvaras Rousanou JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET/GETTY IMAGES ©