Lonely Planet San Francisco

323 Pages·2017·32.98 MB·English

by  Lonely Planet

P
D
F
San
Francisco
PDF ebook
Edition 11th Edition
Release Date Dec 2017
Pages 320
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How to use this book
4
Top Sights features provide in-depth
coverage of the city’s very best sights.
easy-to-use
sections
GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE
Plan Your Trip
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
Your planning tool kit 1 SIGHTS 3 ENTERTAINMENT
Photos, lists and suggestions to
5 7
help you create your perfect trip. EATING SHOPPING
6 DRINKING & 2 SPORTS &
NIGHTLIFE ACTIVITIES
Explore
All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference,
Your complete city guide starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Top Sights features, in-depth
reviews and local tips. Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
ranges, by writer preference.
Understand
Get more from your trip
Learn about the big picture, so you These symbols and abbreviations give vital
can make sense of the city. information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Survival Guide Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
Your at-a-glance reference
% Telephone number f Ferry
Vital practical information to help
you have a smooth trip. h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
plus a Air-conditioning d double rooms
i Internet access d m dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
full-color s Swimming pool r rooms
map section v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
30NTH BCH CHINATOWN84623571hg#ýPCTuoaS¤#rwb5PnreiepstlS4etaee0l r lm0Co-JoBM0nDeausaSWtrenp5aTayrBldosa5AArjiSntoSRtr#ýBR3aeonepVUearrea00HadnsJ SadSNTH BCH CHINATOWNnm0sitel ncIC8pFSSawS0ttLaa#þliaotsaI6llpLlbPÿ#o7rA yIy(5aae3ln 41623571NFbTir3rasrMrFkuhgt0aesooni #ýSrTnPCTtaySetyloarNHhSuSd tnoatBSn¤#r)wbet5IOPinreiceHpLkstNllS4etaeePBie0.#Lsul or lml0Cco-anJroBPM0nDeoauCstaytSWtahreinpog5aSTnrayr Blldosar5AArjiBkuSgnttUooSRtrm#ýtBReaeounenpoVUaeabrrean0niGHadnsMjiuJco SaasdPSndom0oSnsiwt selSer hntcnlIBBlC pFVSSSawS0ttetepLaaA6#þ liaaoetS#þse0aI6llpLvPw7lbPÿ# o7rlA yneImy0t(l5WaaaJee3ln 1 N0FbTicrSaa3jraasroPMrFkuopt0iacwestoeosfnill S SSrTntatySeiktSylhocarNHhSaSd tnstBti nC)AcnoetIOiCcHLkrgNlanvPaBie.#lLetsl uaoSmiolcfanyr#úPtono#ý.#Cty#÷eS tPtoaSch rikogtoSnnSnri nS3t tlnPrBk3ut5t#úCg2tUoi0o#úmefa23te2hue noL Sab3SSienniGGofMjiucota3ssPf#údo1t#æo3tSnwm sSerehrtnlBBlÿ#4 tVSte17eepnAr6 abeS5#þe0# úevuPSw7#û laâ#5nemn0tlW6taJetrF 1 0w3cSSaajdaiCCoP8oplJiicwottiecbsfJcellBa SS SSstptikSeGrhhcerPalnatrSsttAtovi creCÿ#kotAcnjiooSnt SCtS3ra ganv2t2S#úaep5letd7l 5a8eSmtio0#æ10fw#úey ú#3#úw32tomn0##ý.##÷4eS Pt1o7aS0c60 rktao5S9n#þni nS3y3#ætt3#únPp493t5#æ0t0#úC2#ü7#ú2#æi05o#ú#þÿ#e#æfa#þ2344NB24he7w L S3SSi#þeOE45G#æ2of#ûtK843sefV#ú1ta#æ3aCtA8r2r31mn#æeRerynBnÿ#S4t9etTes#æ17le e3SCnHrtigj#ûâ#TburG5G#ú eraea1#æunnS#ûto3#úH #þAIHaapvâ#s 5e4nP5l6#ûNt2ht4S1rFToh 1w#þ6Hn3P2oS6md7i#û5#ûAaliâ#6CCe lSi18tlJi#úoBSticbo2KlJceTBaeS6Sâ#slatpreneG2yrnvt herPSa4ltnOtg#úrSt74tAov0000000000000e4cráá##eÿ#kdotrji6oSn1t1ÜW# #ûSe31#ú#útSa532a 2DD7t2r000000000000000000000000000Sú#6pGep59d7 #û5NCTQá#8#æueP11t5h#üin03#æc1r0y1#÷000000000000000000000000000 #úweS#ú01 ot3ú#aoeM0w32 m0#89oS0nH4tg1r67oweaÿ#0m60iS0000000000000000000000000004.etak59r#þKyt51 eSi8nè#y3a#æ tâ#r3#únqpel8/yM49.#æ# 00S96#ü7#ú2tm#æl000000000000000000000000000w57#þÿu##ær#ý#þ44N2B4ai71wiaâ#l04000000000000000000000000000cè#r#þeOE45#æ2r660#û#þhyK87s44eVeaaC#úA8r2r31n#æ000000000000009eRy0'n#æ 1B5nS#ü96emts#SþT0e7s#ælÿ# e3S2CHti#gjûâ#T2urG2Gtraea1#ænnto3ú#H #þAIHapvs e4P5l#ûN2h4S1Toh#þ6HnP2o6m7#ûi#û5Aalâ#6e lSi1tú#BSo2KlTe6â#laren2ynvt S4tOg#ú740000000000000e4áá##dr611Ü#W#ûe31#úú#a52DD7r0000000000000000000000000006pG9 #ûNCTQá##æuP115#ühin3cr#÷y1000000000000000000000000000 S#ú01otaoeM0 89oS0nHtgr6oweÿ#miS0000000000000000000000000004.etkrKyt51 eSiè8n#a tâ#rnqel8/yM.# S96tml000000000000000000000000000w7urý#2ai1iaâ#l04000000000000000000000000000cè#rer660#þhy7s4eú#0000000000000090'#æ 15ü#6ms#þS07ÿ#222t#ú2TS6prwinMgStA#þaaBliartrMontl Sotnkt6ag omSSearny4s SoSCmtte SttoFOsDgmoIod PlN000000000I(mSEEAF000000000hgTjiJeSINSSADRUrLP000000000epRepcQCeCeI0Ilne0iea) 000000000CvIa Um0iPKdm0AzoilT0a'A Bw0aa000000000SasSnSataLternrsypoSRpm otkOteS S000000000t#ú2oETtNSd6prwin000000000Mg StA#þa465327a1000000000BilartrMontl Sotnkt6ag omæ æ ú SSearny4s SoSCmtt4232333e2223233322 12314S11111231t11 toF00400444696969TSE6988838252323523557777O11111sDgmoIod ao iPlN000000000gICBBCCCCCCCDFFGJMOPRSTWWCCCEGHLLMMMMNRTTTZt(pmSEEAaFhiiraiori'o opeooi000000000rohhhhiooahiooloahgoESSSlg n &anuaioTjiJaasttadeebcTaSISsiNtsnSarSbsofiiiiilmikoyylu fuxADrmqtl ltlsvRgnUrtnnnnunsLd PkeH000000000esttgeHipuei cResiStoYyoipfe c QCds ccAnresheueoCVLetgKaeeemacIT 0e Il fnemroa t 0'oaiKieJMrdraeo lthe)G 000000000CA omarvrsIaamati .Uti'im0st sseinPhLioKaaed m0n nssag.'LAznlo e iow bCoeaMl rres. rTlyeJee0oaSLa 'HuA u CBuwn0w taBa' .c.000000000SlogcashSnidigSeaBwteCaLrnt Bwsu ee...rnri v a r lssfuyQpstocfa.Pout...SHTCRpTotqoml ooutktcra Oe t e g.....Soysreme a fSLe000000000oA NoennGstk......ir'o uluueuetaiekeEru.ci..... sSe yrtaNfa yohun sT.h c.......ld IaalaamaesleBee PyA000000000l..........al dc et'-lteu.eht............m ons et ncl tr .S............F...rS4 6oa532oluS71epie.................yenmp ly000000000e wn k ................... 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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Plan Your Trip 12
San Francisco
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go
and the hardest part is over.
So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
Alison Bing, John A Vlahides, Sara Benson, Ashley Harrell
CCoonntteennttss
ContentsPPllaann Y Yoouurr T Trriipp page 1 04
Welcome to San If You Like��� �������������������� 18 Entertainment ����������� 34
Francisco �������������������������4
Month By Month ����������� 20 LGBT+ �������������������������� 37
San Francisco’s Top 10 ���6
With Kids ����������������������� 23 Shopping ��������������������� 39
What’s New �������������������13
Eating �������������������������� 25 Sports & Activities ��� 42
Need to Know ���������������� 14
Drinking &
Top Itineraries ��������������� 16 Nightlife ��������������������� 30
Explore San Francisco 44
Neighborhoods North Beach The Haight, NoPa
at a Glance ����������������� 46 & Chinatown ���������������� 112 & Hayes Valley ������������� 178
The Marina, Nob Hill, Russian Hill Golden Gate Park
Fisherman’s Wharf & Fillmore �������������������� 128 & the Avenues ������������� 193
& the Piers ��������������������� 48
The Mission Day Trips from
Downtown, Civic Center & Potrero Hill��������������� 144 San Francisco ���������� 206
& SoMa �������������������������� 74
The Castro
Sleeping ������������������� 226
& Noe Valley ����������������� 167
Understand San Francisco 237
San Francisco Literary San San Francisco Music��� 255
Today ��������������������������� 238 Francisco �������������������� 250
San Francisco
History ������������������������� 240 Visual Arts �������������������252 Architecture ���������������� 258

Survival Guide 263
Transportation ����������� 264 Directory A–Z �������������� 271 Index ���������������������������� 277
San Francisco Maps 287
CANADASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK © NITO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
(above) Clam chowder
served in a bread bowl M
(LmSlaqeadfuntia)es rsTieo’h nVPesia c ‘arPtktoa (riAnpialt1ane8m d1 )o IZZICK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
(right) Crane in Crissy
Field (p55)
The Marina,
North Beach
Fisherman's Wharf
& Chinatown
& the Piers Nob Hill,
p48 Russian Hill p112
& Fillmore
p128
Downtown,
Civic Center
The Haight, NoPa & SoMa
Golden Gate Park & Hayes Valley p74
& the Avenues p178
p193
The Mission
& Potrero Hill
p144
The Castro
& Noe Valley
p167
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to
San Francisco
Grab your coat and a handful of
glitter, and enter the land of fog and
fabulousness. So long, inhibitions;
hello, San Francisco.
Outlandish Notions Natural Highs
Consider permission permanently granted California is one grand, sweeping ges-
to be outlandish: other towns may surprise ture – a long arm hugging the Pacific – and
you, but in San Francisco you will surprise the 7-by-7-mile peninsula of San Francisco
yourself. Good times and social revolutions is a thumb pointed optimistically upwards.
tend to start here, from manic gold rushes Take this as a hint to look up: you’ll notice
to blissful hippie be-ins. If there’s a skate- San Francisco’s crooked Victorian rooflines,
board move yet to be busted, a technology wind-sculpted treetops and fog tumbling
still unimagined, a poem left unspoken or over the Golden Gate Bridge.
a green scheme untested, chances are it’s Heads are perpetually in the clouds atop
about to happen here. Yes, right now. This San Francisco’s 43 hills. Cable cars provide
town has lost almost everything in earth- easy access to Russian and Nob Hills, and
quakes and dot-com gambles, but never its splendid panoramas reward the slog up
nerve. to Coit Tower – but the most exhilarating
highs are earned on Telegraph Hill’s garden-
Food & Drink lined stairway walks and windswept hikes
around Land’s End.
Every available Bay Area–invented techno-
logy is needed to make dinner decisions
Neighborhood Microclimates
in this city, with the most restaurants and
farmers markets per capita in North Amer- Microclimates add magic realism to San
ica, supplied by pioneering local organic Francisco days: when it’s drizzling in the
farms. San Francisco set the gold standard outer reaches of Golden Gate Park, it might
for Wild West saloons, but drinking was be sunny in the Mission. A few degrees’
driven underground in the 1920s with Pro- difference between neighborhoods grants
hibition. Today, San Francisco celebrates its permission for salted-caramel ice cream in
speakeasies and vintage saloons – and with Dolores Park, or a hasty retreat to tropical
Wine Country and local distillers providing heat inside the California Academy of Sci-
a steady supply of America’s finest hooch, ences’ rainforest dome. This town will give
the West remains wild. you goose bumps one minute, and warm
you to the core the next.
T. M
ALACHI DUNW
ORTH/500PX ©
Why I Love San Francisco
By Alison Bing, Writer
On my way from Hong Kong to New York, I stopped in San Francisco for a day. I walked
from the Geary St art galleries up Grant Ave to Waverly Pl, just as temple services were
starting. The fog was scented with incense and roast duck. In the basement of City Lights
bookstore, near the Muckraking section, I noticed a sign painted by a 1920s cult: ‘I am the
door.’ It’s true. San Francisco is the threshold between East and West, body and soul, fact
and fiction. That was 20 years ago. I’m still here. You’ve been warned.
For more about our writers, see p320
Top: Cable car with Fisherman’s Wharf (p57) in the background
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
6
San Francisco’s
Top 10
7
Golden Gate Bridge (p54) Alcatraz (p50)
1 Other suspension bridges boast im- 2 From its 19th-century founding to
pressive engineering, but none can detain Civil War deserters and Na-
touch the Golden Gate Bridge for show- tive American dissidents until its closure
manship. On sunny days, it transfixes by Bobby Kennedy in 1963, Alcatraz was
crowds with its radiant glow – thanks to 25 America’s most notorious jail. No prisoner
daredevil painters, who reapply 1000 gal- is known to have escaped alive – but,
lons of International Orange paint weekly. once you enter D-Block solitary and hear
When afternoon fog rolls in, the bridge per- carefree city life humming across the bay,
forms its disappearing act: now you see it, the 1.25-mile swim through riptides seems
now you don’t and, abracadabra, it’s sawn worth a shot. For maximum chill factor,
in half. Return tomorrow for its dramatic book the spooky twilight jailhouse tour.
unveiling, just in time for the morning Freedom never felt so good as it does on
commute. the return ferry to San Francisco.
1T he Marina, Fisherman's Wharf 1T he Marina, Fisherman’s Wharf
& the Piers & the Piers
PHITHA TANPAIROJ/SHUTTERSTOCK © OSCITY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
8
Golden Gate Park (p195) Mission Murals (p146)
3 You may have heard that SF has a wild 4 Love changed the course of art his-
streak a mile wide, but that streak tory in 1930s San Francisco when
also happens to be 4.5 miles long. Golden modern-art power couple Diego Rivera and
Gate Park lets locals do what comes Frida Kahlo rekindled their romance here.
naturally: roller-discoing, drum-circling, Kahlo completed some of her first portrait
P
L starfish-petting, orchid-sniffing and stam- commissions during her time in the city,
AN peding toward the Pacific with a herd of and Rivera created mural masterpieces
Y bison. It’s hard to believe these lush 1017 that remain vibrant and relevant today. The
O acres were once scrubby sand dunes, and Mission district is an urban-art showstop-
U
R that San Franciscans have preserved this per, featuring more than 400 murals. Balmy
T stretch of green since 1866, blocking the Alley has some of the oldest, while 24th St
R
I establishment of casinos and resorts. and the landmark San Francisco Women’s
P
S Today, everything SF needs is here: inspi- Building are covered with community pride
AN ration, nature and microbrewed beer at the and political dissent. RIGHT: DEAR FACE MURAL BY
F Beach Chalet. BELOW: JAPANESE TEA GARDEN (P197) EMILY GLAUBINGER IN CLARION ALLEY (P149)
RA 1G olden Gate Park & the Avenues 1T he Mission & Potrero Hill
N
C
IS
C
O’S TOP 10 CATCHASNAP/SHUTTERSTOCK ©