Lonely Planet Oman, UAE & Arabian Peninsula (Travel Guide)

484 Pages·2016·40.71 MB·English

by  Jenny Walker

Oman, UAE
& Arabian
Peninsula
PDF ebook
Edition 5th Edition
Release Date Sep 2016
Pages 480
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PFD
easy-to-use How to Use This Book
4 sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 Sights 4 Sleeping
1 r Beaches 5 Eating
PLAN YOUR TRIP 2 Activities 6 Drinking
Your planning tool kit C Courses 3 Entertainment
Photos & suggestions to help T Tours 7 Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
Festivals Information
z & Events 8 & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
2 suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
Your complete guide range s(,b buyd agueth, mori dpraenfegree,n tcoep. end) and, within these
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
3 % Telephone number f Ferry
UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds
W Wi-f access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
4 # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Oman, UAE
& Arabian
Peninsula
Kuwait
p86 Oman
Bahrain p121
p50
Qatar United Arab
ASraaubdiai p222 Empir3a0t4es
p255
Oman
p121
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Jenny Walker, Anthony Ham, Andrea Schulte-Peevers
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P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Oman, UAE BAHRAIN 50 Tree of Life 73
& Arabian Peninsula 6
Manama 53 Oil Museum 74
Oman, UAE & Arabian
Peninsula Map 8 Around Bahrain Muharraq Island 74
Arabia’s Top 15 10 Island 69
Dar Island 78
Need to Know 18
Bahrain Fort Understand Bahrain 78
First Time Oman, UAE
Complex 69
& Arabian Peninsula 20 Bahrain Today 78
A’Ali 70
What’s New 22 History 79
Sar 70
If You Like… 23 People & Society 80
King Fahd Causeway 70
Month by Month 27 Arts 81
Al Jasra 71
Itineraries 30 Environment 81
Riffa Fort 71
Survival Guide 83
The Hajj 34
Bahrain International
Expats 38
Circuit 71
Countries at a Glance 47
Al Areen 72
DESERT CAMELS P413
LIONFISH IN DUBAI
AQUARIUM, UAE P313
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JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©
JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET © S-F/LONELY PLANET ©
Contents
AIUKT W . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Religion 115 Wadi Bani
aiutwK Cit y . . . . . . . . . . . 9 0 Environment 115 Khalid 163
Failaka Island 107 Sur av li v G u i de . . . . . . . . . 7 1 1 Jaylah 164
Wadi Khabbah &
Fahaheel 108
OMA N . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Wadi Tayein 164
ERAnal Atse hArmtla Zainodmui r e n t C ity 108 oMArusactun d Musact . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 6 1 1 3 2 SASahl nMadriqnsi tyi ar i b( W a h i b a ) 165
Al Jahra 108 Seeb 146 Ibra 167
Mutla Ridge 109 Bandar Jissah 147 Sinaw 168
Undesr tand aiutwK . . . 0 9 1 Yitti 148 aN iw z &
Kuwait Today 109 Wadi Mayh 148 the Mountains . . . . . . . . 9 6 1
History 111 Bandar Khayran 149 Nizwa 169
People 114 Al Seifa 149 Around Nizwa 171
Qurayat 149 Mountain Road via Hatt &
Mazara 150 Wadi Bani Awf 172
Sur & the aEstern Birkat Al Mawz 174
Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 5 0 Jebel Akhdar 174
Sur 150 Jebel Shams 177
Ayjah 153 Bahla & Jabrin 179
Sinkhole Park Bat & Al Ayn 180
(Hawiyat Najm Park) 153
Ibri 180
Mountain Road
to Jaylah 154 Buraimi 181
Tiwi 154 oS har &
the aBtinah Pl a in . . . . . . 1 8 1
Wadi Shab 154
Sohar 182
Wadi Tiwi 155
Nakhal 183
Qalhat 156
Wadi Bani Kharus 184
Ras al Jinz 156
Wadi Bani Awf 184
Ras al Hadd 158
Rustaq 184
Al Ashkarah 158
Wadi Hoqain 185
Al Ashkarah to
Shana’a Road 159 Barka 186
Masirah 159 Sawadi 187
Jalan Bani Bu Hassan Damanayat Islands 188
& Jalan Bani Bu Ali 162 The Musanda m
OT HM EA N E MP TP Y 2 0 2 Q A U T R E R I N Al Kamil 162 eP ninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 8 8
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ON THE ROAD
Khasab 188
Khasab–Tibat Road 192
The Musandam Khors 192
Jebel Harim 193
Rawdah Bowl 193
Salalah, Dhofar &
Southern Oman 194
Salalah 194
Around Salalah 200
East of Salalah 201 SHEIKH ZAYED GRAND
MOSQUE, ABU DHABI P351
West of Salalah 203
Shisr (Ubar) 203 Al Ghariya 244 Madain Saleh &
Hayma 204 Al Ruweis & Around 244 the North 275
Duqm 204 Al Zubara 244 Al Ula 275
Understand Oman 206 Bir Zekreet 244 Around Al Ula 276
Oman Today 206 Understand Qatar 245 Madain Saleh 277
History 207 Qatar Today 245 Tabuk 279
People & Society 209 History 245 Around Tabuk 283
Religion 210 People 247 Mecca 284
Arts 210 Arts 249 Understand
Saudi Arabia 291
Environment 211 Environment 250
Saudi Arabia Today 291
Food & Drink 213 Survival Guide 251
History 291
Survival Guide 214
People 294
SAUDI ARABIA 255
QATAR 222 Religion 295
Riyadh 257
Doha 225 Camel Market Environment 295
Al Wakrah & & Around 263 Survival Guide 296
Al Wukair 242 Dir’aiyah 264
UNITED ARAB
Mesaieed 242 Riyadh to Mecca 266
EMIRATES 304
Khor Al Adaid 242 Hejaz 266
Dubai 308
Umm Salal Jeddah 266
Mohammed 243 Al Maha Desert
Taif 271
Resort & Spa 331
Umm Salal Ali 243
Yanbu 273

Al Khor 243
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RICHARD SHARROCKS/GETTY IMAGES ©
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Oman, UAE & Arabian
Peninsula Today 394
History 396
People & Society 404
Arts, Sports
& Leisure 410
Islam in Arabia 415
Flavours of Arabia 419
The Natural
Environment 429
ASSORTED NUTS IN NIZWA MUGHSAIL, OMAN P203
SOUQ, OMAN P169
aBb A l S h a ms Goev rnment &
eD sert eR sort & aS p . . . . 3 3 1 oP litisc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 8 1
H atta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 3 1 ocE noym . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 8 1 A S U L V R I V
G U I D E
Northern Emirates 332 eP ople & oS ciety . . . . . . . 3 8 2
S h a r j a h . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 3 2 A rts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 8 3
S h a r j a h eD sert ark P . . . . 3 3 8 nE ovir nment . . . . . . . . . . . 3 8 4 Safe Travel 436
Ajman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 3 8 Survival Guide 385 Directory A–Z 441
Um A l a i unQw . . . . . . . . 3 4 0 Transport in the
Arabian Peninsula 449
asR Al K h a i m a h . . . . . . . . 3 4 1
Health 457
Abu Dhabi 345
Language 461
Al Ain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 6 5
A l G h a r b i a . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 3 6 Glossary 465
East Coast 374 Index 469
ahu j a i rCF it y . . . . . . . . . . . 4 7 3
K hoaaknkr F . . . . . . . . . . . 7 7 3
a haB d i y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 7 3
SPECIAL
Al qa h A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 7 3 FEATURES
Diab b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7 3 The Hajj 34
Understand the United Expats 38
Arab Emirates 380
Grand Mosque
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 8 0 (Al Masjid Al Haram) 286
Flavours of Arabia 419
Safe Travel 436
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JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©
JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
6
Welcome to Oman, UAE &
Arabian Peninsula
The spectacular emptiness of the Arabian
landscape provides a blank canvas upon
which is projected a riot of cultural,
religious, intellectual and trading
wonders.
The Desert Legendary Hospitality
‘No man can live this life and emerge un- The essence of the Arabian Peninsula lies in
changed,’ wrote Wilfred Thesiger of his its people: good-natured haggling in souqs,
travels with the Bedu across the Empty cursing on long journeys, sharing of sweet
Quarter in Arabian Sands. ‘He will carry, tea on the edge of wild places. Unifying all
however faint, the imprint of the desert.’ is Islam, a way of life, the call to prayer car-
The austere allure of the desert has at- ried on an inland breeze, a gentle hospitali-
tracted travellers to Arabia for centuries. ty extended towards strangers. This is what
Ibn Battuta, Marco Polo and TE Lawrence many travellers most remember of their
are among many famous travellers beguiled visit here – the ancient tradition of sharing
by the beauty and challenge of the barren ‘bread and salt’ and of ensuring safe pas-
landscapes. Thankfully, modern travellers sage, albeit given a modern context. Visitors
no longer need risk life and limb to en- can expect equally friendly exchanges in
counter the wilderness as roads and camps supermarkets as remote desert villages.
make encounters with the desert possible
for all. Cultural Riches
It’s hard to think of Arabia without conjur-
Urban Landscapes ing the Queen of Sheba and camel caravans
When asked what they most like about bearing frankincense from Dhofar in
their land of sand dunes, the Bedu near Al Oman; dhows laden with pearls from Dil-
Hashman in Oman reply, ‘Coming to town’. mun; the ruins of empire in Saudi Arabia’s
Town! This is the Arabia of the 21st century, Madain Saleh. The caravans and dhows
built on oil and banking – sophisticated may be plying different trades these days,
communities looking to the future and but the lexicon of The Thousand and One
creating empires out of sand, or at least on Nights that brought Sheherazade’s exotic,
land reclaimed from the sea. For those look- vulnerable world to the West still helps
ing for a dynamic urban experience, the define the Peninsula today. Visit a fort,
Gulf cities are the place to find it. With high barter in a souq or step into labyrinthine
incomes per capita, elegant towers, opulent alleyways and you’ll immediately discover
hotels and eccentric malls, these cities offer the perennial magic of Arabia.
the ‘pleasure domes’ of the modern world.
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7
Why I Love the Arabian Peninsula
By Jenny Walker, Writer
Mention ‘Arabia’ and a host of familiar, media-weary images probably appear. I’ve spent
half my life studying these images – of wilderness, wealth and war – in various academic
pursuits. But there’s so much more to the sophisticated culture of modern Arabia than is
conjured by these stereotypes. I love the Peninsula because each day I encounter the com-
plexity of Arabia in the dynamic, warm-hearted people who lie at the core of the region’s
enduring appeal. And of course the desert, with its life against the odds, has inevitably crept
into my soul.
For more about our writers, see page 480.
Above: Wadi Ghul, Oman (p177)
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JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©
Oman, UAE & Arabian Peninsula
PALEISSRTAINEILA N& DSead Al HadithahTuraif I R A Q
TERRITORIES
J O R D A N
Suez
E G Y P T Ma'an
Basra
Sinai Sakaka Abadan
Haql
M
(22t 8S5inma)i Bir ibn Himas Rafha KUWAIT
Al Bad Al Nafud Kuwait City KUWAIT CITY
Ash Shaykh Tabuk Iconic towers and
Hamayd exquisite crafts (p90) Hafr Al Batn
Taima
Dhuba Madain Hail
Saleh
Al Ghazala
Luxor Al Wajh Al Ula
Al Artawiyah
Buraydah
Ar Rass Al Majma'ah
E G Y P T
Dukhnah
Aswan Sharqa
24ºN
Yanbu Medina AS R A A U B D I IA Dir'aiyaRhIYADH
Lake
Nasser
36ºE Al Kharj
Rabigh
Zalim
Madain Saleh
ansSwauerd it’os wPehtirma s(ipc2a7l7) Jeddah Mecca Layla
Taif
R E D
S E A Al Shafa
20ºN Al Khamasin
S U D A N Port Sudan Al Baha Bisha Sulayyil
Jebel Soudah Khamis Mushayt
Red Sea (2910m) Abha
Spectacular underwater Al Janoub
snorkelling and diving (p283) Najran Sharurah
Sa'da
40ºE Farasan Jizan Wuday'ah
Islands
E R I T R E A
SANA'A
Al Hudayda Y E M E N
Al Rawdah
Zabid
Ta'izz
E T H I O P I A
D J I B O U T I Aden G UA L D F E N O F 48ºE
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Tropic of Cancer
Euphrates
Tigris
A S I R
H E J A Z
M O U N T A I N S
E S C A R P M E N T
of Suez
Gulf
o
f
A
q
a
b
a
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f
Aqaba