Lonely Planet. Munich, Bavaria and the Black Forest PDF
Preview Lonely Planet. Munich, Bavaria and the Black Forest
Munich Bavaria , & the Black Forest 4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book sections Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 4 Sights Sleeping 1 r 5 Beaches Eating 2 6 PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking C 3 Courses Entertainment Your planning tool kit T 7 Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping you create the perfect trip. z Festivals 8 Information & Events & Transport All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: 2 Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these Your complete guide ranges, by author preference. Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips. These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation 3 No payment required % Telephone number f Ferry UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms s Swimming pool r rooms v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites 4 c Family-friendly tr triple rooms # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms g Bus SURVIVAL GUIDE Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. Vital practical information for a smooth trip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest Bavaria p89 Stuttgart&the BlackForest Munich p196 p42 ^# Salzburg ^#&Around p168 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Kerry Christiani, Marc Di Duca P LAN ON THE ROAD YOUR TRIP Welcome to MUNICH . . . . . . . . . .42 Ingolstadt . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Munich, Bavaria & Landshut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 the Black Forest . . . . . . . . 4 Around Munich . . . . . . . . 86 Passau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Dachau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Munich, Bavaria & the Bavarian Forest . . . . . . . . . 166 Black Forest’s Top 10 . . . . . 8 Schleissheim . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Starnberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .14 SALZBURG & First Time . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 AROUND . . . . . . . . . 168 BAVARIA . . . . . . . . . . 89 What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Salzburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Bavarian Alps . . . . . . . . .92 Around Salzburg . . . . . . 192 If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Füssen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Schloss Hellbrunn . . . . . . 192 Month by Month . . . . . . . 22 Wieskirche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Untersberg . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Schloss Linderhof . . . . . . . 95 Oktoberfest . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Gaisberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Oberammergau . . . . . . . . . 97 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Ettal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Hallein & Bad Dürrnberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Outdoor Activities . . . . . 33 Garmisch-Partenkirchen . . . 98 Werfen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Mittenwald . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Travel with Children . . . . . 37 Oberstdorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Regions at a Glance . . . . 39 STUTTGART & THE Andechs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 BLACK FOREST . . . . 196 Bad Tölz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Stuttgart . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Chiemsee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Around Stuttgart . . . . .207 Berchtesgaden . . . . . . . . . 107 Max-Eyth-See . . . . . . . . . . 207 The Romantic Road . . .109 Grabkapelle Würzburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Württemberg . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Rothenburg Ludwigsburg . . . . . . . . . . . 207 ob der Tauber . . . . . . . . . . 115 Maulbronn . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Dinkelsbühl . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Swabian Alps Nördlingen . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Donauwörth . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Tübingen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Augsburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Burg Hohenzollern . . . . . . 211 Landsberg am Lech . . . . . 126 Schwäbisch Hall . . . . . . . . 211 Nuremberg & Ulm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Franconia . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 F.CADIOU / GETTY IM NBBaauymrerebmuebtrhger . . g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111342827 TBKFrhaaerdeule sdBnreul-naBhcseatk da . edF .not . . r . . . e . . .s . . .t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222222118835 AGES © Coburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Kinzig Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Altmühltal Nature Park . . . 145 Alpirsbach . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Eichstätt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Schiltach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Regensburg & Gutach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 the Danube . . . . . . . . . . .151 Regensburg . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Haslach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 OKTOBERFEST P24 Around Regensburg . . . . . 157 Gengenbach . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Contents UNDERSTAND Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest Today . . . . 262 TRAVELSTOCK44 - JUERGEN HELD / GETTY IM HPFLWoaeiisonoldtddpol slir&efcye a . . & Dp . . r . .Cein . .suk . . l&t . . . u . . . r . . .e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222296870443 AGES © SURVIVAL GUIDE Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .294 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . . 319 HOFBRÄUHAUS, MUNICH P78 Freiburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Rottweil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Schauinsland . . . . . . . . . . 238 Unterkirnach . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Steinwasen Park . . . . . . . . 238 Lake Constance . . . . . .247 Todtnauer Wasserfall . . . . 239 Konstanz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 St Peter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Mainau Island . . . . . . . . . . 253 SPECIAL Breisach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Reichenau Island . . . . . . . 253 FEATURES Feldberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Meersburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Oktoberfest . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Titisee-Neustadt . . . . . . . .240 Pfahlbauten . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Romantic Schluchsee . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 Birnau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Residences . . . . . . . . . . 146 Triberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243 Affenberg Salem . . . . . . . 255 Dramatic Stöcklewaldturm . . . . . . . 244 Schloss Salem . . . . . . . . . 256 Landscapes . . . . . . . . . . 228 Martinskapelle . . . . . . . . . 244 Friedrichshafen . . . . . . . . . 256 Food & Drink . . . . . . . . .283 Villingen- Ravensburg . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Schwenningen . . . . . . . . . 244 Lindau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 4 Welcome to Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest Hilltop castles and green energy, beer halls and luxury cars, Alps and edgy art – southern Germany blends thigh- slapping tradition with clear-headed modernity like nowhere else on earth. Southern Comfort Cuckoo Clocks & Lederhosen The Germans have a word for it – Gemütli- If you’re in search of strapping Alpine types chkeit – that untranslatable blend of cosiness, in Lederhosen, big-bosomed wenches jug- well-being and a laid-back attitude. Nowhere gling platters of pork, tipsy oompah bands does this mood permeate deeper than in the and lanes of Hänsel-and-Gretel cottages, prosperous south where it awaits you in a you’ll be pleased to hear that Germany’s region of fairy-lit beer gardens, Alpine views, south keeps all its clichéd promises. No- medieval towns and rousing hilltop castles. where is this truer than on the Romantic But there’s another facet to Gemütlichkeit: Road, a 350km-long route from Würzburg to it’s also a marble-smooth autobahn of luxury the Alps stringing centuries’ worth of quaint cars speeding to gourmet restaurants and walled towns along a ribbon of history and chic Alpine spas, Munich’s high-brow cultural tweeness. And if you think the folksy fuss is scene robed in black, and cappuccinos at just for the tourists you’d be wrong – many dawn on intercity expresses. The two south- Bavarians keep a pair of Lederhosen or a ern Germanys coexist side-by-side, an incon- Dirndl in their closets for special occasions. gruous mix packed with the unexpected. King of the Castle Alpine Air & Munich Flair Southern Germany is famed for its castles, Bavaria is definitely a place for those who from medieval fortresses to the 19th-century prefer their air fresh rather than freshened. follies commissioned by Bavaria’s most Though the Alps only tickle Germany’s un- celebrated king, Ludwig II. Mad about Ver- derbelly, locals know how to get the most out sailles (and some claim just plain mad) he of their peaks, stringing cable cars up the ‘single-handedly’ launched Bavaria’s tourist vertical reality of the Alps; marking out entire industry and even stirred Walt Disney with atlases of cycling, hiking and cross- country his story-book Neuschwanstein Castle. You skiing trails; even running a train up the could spend a month zig-zagging between inside of the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest sugary palaces, stuccoed baroque residenc- mountain. Yet all this is just a short ride from es, wind-cracked Gothic ruins and vista-rich the urban joie de vivre of Munich, a sassy, chateaux. Palace fatigue? Then retreat to a sophisticated and self-confident city with a cosy tavern and raise a tankard to this mar- nonchalant, almost Mediterranean feel. vellous corner of Europe. 5 JORG GREUEL / GETTY IM AGES © Why I Love Southern Germany By Marc Di Duca, Writer Is it the sap-scented hills and trails in forests Black and Bavarian, the Franconian beer and dark tourism of Nuremberg or the emotions stirred by the tragic Ludwig II story? Or is it a mildly envious admiration for southern Germany’s knack of producing cars that work, the galleries packed with modern art or the awe I feel for the German intellect as I face yet an- other devilishly complex Deutsche Bahn ticket machine (perhaps not)? I suppose it’s all the above and heaps more that have me returning time and again to this quirky yet level-headed chunk of Europe. For more about our writers, see page 320 Above: Geroldsee and Mt Karwendel (p102) Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest ELEVATION A45 Bad Neustadt 1800m 1500m HESSE A66 1000m Bad Kissingen 700m Frankfurt- 500m am-Main 300m SchAw7einfurt Hassfurt 200m B27 100m MAINZ Aschaffenburg Lohr A70 Bad0 Karlstadt Kreuznach M B41 NaheRiver AA63lAz6e1y ain River A3 Würzburg Prichsenstadt EbrAa3ch Pommersfelden Sommerhausen Iphofen Worms RHINELAND- Ochsenfurt PALATINATE Neustadt A6 Ludwigshafen Mannheim Bad WeikersheAi7m B470 Heidelberg Mergentheim Bad Neckarsteinach Creglingen Windsheim Schwetzingen good-liBGviaondoged sn-pl-oaBo tkaoidnwegnn, (p218) RivSerpeyerA5 SinsheimNeAck6arRiver A81 obR doethr eTnabuubregr Ansbach A65 ne Feuchtwangen Rhi Dinkelsbühl Karlsruhe Maulbronn A7 F R A N C E Romantic Road Medieval towns, Rastatt A5 Pforzheim countryside & castles (p109) Iffezheim A8 Nördlingen KarBlsarduehne -ABiarpdoenrt- (M66t 0Mme)rkur STUTTGART B25 Baden- A5 Baden Naturpark Schwarzwald Strasbourg Mitte/Nord A8 B16 River hineRiver OfGfeennObguebnregbrkaircchh Freudenstadt NecAk8a1rRiverBADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG GünzbDuarngube R B33 Alpirsbach Ulm A8 Wolfach Hechingen Rust Schiltach Senden B l a c k F o r e s t B300 A81 Vöhringen Krumbach Kaiserstuhl Triberg St Georgen A7 ALLGÄU- (560m) Furtwangen Villingen- BAVARIAN Breisach Freiburg Schwenningen MSinWdeAlhBeIiAm Tuttlingen KirScchhzaaurtinensland NTietiusestea-dt Donaueschingen Memmingen Ottobeuren (1286m) Schluchsee B27 B31 A7 Bonndorf Singen Mainau Kaufbeuren B317 Naturpark N4 Island Birnau SchopfheimSüdschBw50a0rzwaSlcdhaffhausen RReiacdhoelnfzaeull B31 Kempten Basel RheinfeldenRhine River IslandKonstanz (CBoonLdsaetnkaesnecee) Lindenberg Pfronten Füssen Immenstadt S W I T Z E R L A N D Lindau Sonthofen ZÜRICH Oberstdorf B85 B88 0 50 km 0 25 miles SAXONY THURINGIA A72 Mödlareuth Hof Coburg Kronach A9 Rehau Selb Lichtenfels Kulmbach Münchberg Nuremberg Staffelstein The south’s most B4 kid-friendly city (p127) Marktredwitz A70 Bayreuth Aufsess B22 Bamberg FRÄNKISCHE SCHWEIZ PommersfeldeGnössweinstein Pottenstein B470 A93 Plzen Forchheim Pegnitz Weiden FRANCONIAA73 A9 B299 B14 Erlangen Eckental Fürth Lauf Hersbruck RSuolszebnabcehr-g B22 Explore BMauvanriicah’s exciting Nuremberg Röthenberg Amberg capital city (p42) A6 Schwabach Feucht Schwandorf C Z E C H A6 RothB2 Neumarkt Burglengenfeld Cham B20 Furth im Wald R E P U B L I C A3 Bayerisch Gunzenhausen Eisenstein TBr4e4Su6oclhnthBli2onfgeenn WB1e3isANselanttmbuEuürircphgAhal9strtakältt BeWilRneilgetreKdineelosbnsubterugrrg Kelheim RegensbSturarugbiAn3g BAVBAodRenImAaZiwsRNieegseeFnlOFrB(aBauNayeveanartairiGuosicranahnafe elFprn oaaWrruekasltd) Harburg A93 Plattling DeggendorfRE DBo2nLech RiverauSwchörrotahbne Ndneehure bDisueorngnaBu300 IngPoflasftfaednthB3o0f1enMainburg EBLA1a5SnTIdsEsaRhrRuNti vBerAVDAAin9R2gIoAlfiBn2Lg0andauBV8DilsahnoufbeenRiverPassSauT Moosburg B12 Gersthofen Aichach FAre9ising A92 Vilsbiburg Eggenfelden B388 Pocking Augsburg Neusäss Munich Marktl KönFirgiesbdrbuenrgnDachauInternAatiiropnoartl Erding Dorfen Mühldorf am Inn Braunau A U S T R I A Bobingen Schleissheim Altötting Fürstenfeldbruck Salzburg Schwabmünchen MUNICH Visit Mozart and Maria’s LanSdcshbBo1eA7nrDgmgiaemAus9see6rnsAeTePunutdzceihnchghesimSSPetaeSörtcnakbriWnnebgrogelerfgrratsVhaatuesresntetRteonsenheim InBnRiB1vePr5errinWeanCauUhssiSPeeemPrebEsbuRerreüg BcAkAC8VhiAemRTBrIinaA20ugnstSealiznachRAivelrpinSea lhzobmureg (p168) Peiting Peissenberg AS9e5eshaupt Bad Tölz Ruhpolding Bavarian Alps SteingadeSntaffelsee Murnau Tegernsee Tegernsee RWeiti nimkl Outdoor frolics amid FüssFenorggensee Kochelsee Kochel P S mountain peaks (p92) ZAuglpsspeitezePaGrtaernmBkiisrccAhh-eVnB2AWRalcIheAnsNee A L SEcxhpflaolomsrsoe N utshe ecu awssctohlrewl d(pa’s9n m2s)toesitn BNeartcihotneaslgpKaadörenknigsseAe U S T R I A (2962m) Mittenwald ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 8 Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest’s Top 10
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