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See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. 4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book sections Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 4 Sights Sleeping 1 r 5 Beaches Eating 2 6 PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking C 3 Courses Entertainment Your planning tool kit T 7 Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping you create the perfect trip. z Festivals 8 Information & Events & Transport All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: 2 Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these Your complete guide ranges, by author preference. Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips. These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation 3 No payment required % Telephone number f Ferry UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms s Swimming pool r rooms v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites 4 c Family-friendly tr triple rooms # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms g Bus SURVIVAL GUIDE Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. Vital practical information for a smooth trip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Malta & Gozo Gozo & Comino p113 Northwest Malta p75 Sliema, St Julian's & Paceville p65 Central Malta Valletta p90 p42 Southeast Malta p104 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Abigail Blasi P LAN ON THE ROAD YOUR TRIP Welcome to Malta VALLETTA . . . . . . . . . 42 NORTHWEST MALTA . .75 & Gozo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Around Valletta . . . . . . . . 58 Golden Bay & Malta & Gozo Map . . . . . . .6 Floriana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Għajn Tuffieħa . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Malta & Gozo’s Top 10 . . . . 8 Vittoriosa, Senglea & Mġarr & Around . . . . . . . . . 79 Cospicua Mellieħa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .14 (the Three Cities) . . . . . . . . 59 Xemxija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Hal Saflieni Hypogeum Buġibba, Qawra & & Tarxien Temples . . . . . . . 64 St Paul’s Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Month by Month . . . . . . . . 18 Fort Rinella & Smart City . . 64 Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq . . . . . . . . 88 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Diving & Outdoor SLIEMA, ST JULIAN’S CENTRAL MALTA . . . 90 Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 & PACEVILLE . . . . . . . 65 Mdina & Rabat . . . . . . . . . . 91 Eat & Drink Sliema & Around . . . . . .67 Dingli Cliffs . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 32 St Julian’s & Paceville . . 70 Mosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Travel with Children . . . . 36 Naxxar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Birkirkara & the Three Regions at a Glance . . . . 39 Villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 LES STOCKER/GETTY IM AGES © CARNIVAL PROCESSION, VALLETTA P18 CHRISTIAN KOBER/JOHN WARBURTON-LEE PHOTOGRAPHY LTD/GETTY IM CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF FALOMBINI/GETTY IMAGES © AGES © LOURDES, MĠARR P121 Contents UNDERSTAND SOUTHEAST Xewkija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Malta & Gozo MALTA . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Ta’Ċenċ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Marsaxlokk . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Xlendi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 Birżebbuġa . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Northern Gozo . . . . . . .124 The Maltese Way Marsaskala . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Għarb & Around . . . . . . . . 124 of Life . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Żurrieq . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 San Lawrenz . . . . . . . . . . . 125 5000 Years of Ħaġar Qim & Mnajdra . . . 110 Dwejra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Architecture . . . . . . . . . .165 Għar Lapsi . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Marsalforn . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Xagħra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 SSUURRVVIIVVAALL GOZO & COMINO . . . 113 Nadur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 GGUUIIDDEE Ramla Bay, San Blas Gozo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 Bay & Daħlet Qorrot . . . . 132 Victoria (Rabat) . . . . . . . . 116 Qala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . .170 Southern Gozo . . . . . . .120 Comino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Mġarr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Mġarr ix-Xini . . . . . . . . . . . 122 ACCOMMODATION . . 134 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . . 191 SPECIAL FEATURES Diving & Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 The Maltese Way of Life . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161 5000 Years of Architecture . . . . . . . . . 165 AZURE WINDOW, DWEJRA P126 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 4 Welcome to Malta & Gozo Malta packs glorious variety into its small archipelago. You’ll find prehistoric temples, fossil-studded cliffs, hidden coves, thrilling scuba diving and a history of remarkable intensity. A Legendary History A Mediterranean Cocktail Malta’s geographical location in the centre Malta is staunchly Roman Catholic but is of the Mediterranean made it an alluring also home to a beguiling mix of cultures and much-fought-over prize in times when that has stewed together over generations. it was impossible for sea vessels to attempt Traditional Maltese food mixes Sicilian long, continuous trips, and the islands are and Middle Eastern flavours, while mak- full of majestic above- and below-ground ing use of local ingredients such as rabbit defences. The capital, Valletta, built by and honey. The Maltese people are warm the Knights of St John, is a harmonious and welcoming: if you ask for directions, grid, Mdina and Victoria are fortress-like it’s likely a local will walk with you to help hilltop towns, and watchtowers dot the you find the way. Plenty of 21st-century coast. Even Malta’s fishing boats resonate sophistication can be found, but there are with the past, their prows painted with also pockets where you feel you’ve gone back eyes, just like the boats of their Phoenician in time, especially on Gozo, where mam- predecessors. moth churches tower over quiet villages. Secret Coves & Glittering Sea Mysterious Ancients Malta’s landscape contrasts rocky stretch- Malta and Gozo’s astounding prehis- es of coast that end in dizzying limestone toric sites were seemingly constructed by cliffs with sheltered bays that hide gin- sophisticated temple builders, who also clear water and red-gold beaches. The left miniature figurines and mammoth islands’ many marinas jostle with boats, sculptures of ‘fat ladies’, which have sur- and you can take to the water in sky-blue vived millennia and are housed in Malta’s traditional craft, stately yachts or speed- fascinating museums. Out in the open, boats. Snorkellers and divers have much to gigantic temples and towers from many explore underwater as well, in a world of different eras stand proud, continuing their caves, crags and wrecks. endless watch over the sea. But the most extraordinary site of all lies underground: Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, a 5000-year-old necropolis carved from the living rock. 5 IN GREEN/SHUTTERSTOCK © Why I Love Malta & Gozo by Abigail Blasi, Author Malta is packed with interest, yet is laid-back and easy. There are boat trips, beautiful towns, periwinkle seas, friendly people and soul-feeding views, and you can go from swimming in glinting sea to a clifftop prehistoric site, to a harbourside restaurant, all in the space of a few hours. Combine sightseeing and beaches on Malta with a relaxing stay on Gozo, with its hill- ocks, small villages and carved-out coast, and you have the perfect holiday. For more about Abigail Blasi, see page 192 Above: Vittoriosa, Malta (p59) Malta & Gozo 14º08'E 14º10'E 14º12'E 14º14'E 14º16'E 14º18'E 14º20'E 36º04'N DPiSomaininttri Ta'GħamŻembbaurġ#\ #\Qb#\ajMjaarrsalfoRrGnamOlZaO Għarb #\ Bay San #\ Blas Bay DwPoejirnat Xagħra#\ QDoarhrloett DwBaejyra Victoria^# 36º02'N WaProdiinjat Xlendi BayXle#\n(dRiMaubnaxta)r#\ #\Xewkija M#\ġaNrardur#\Qala PQoailnat Stunning cDoawsteljirnae carved byTCSa'alĊinfeTfnsnaa'ċĊt#\en#\ċ GħiMxa-jXnasirnierileCmh#\aFmV#or#\btraf#yNortCh hCaonmneilnf#oComino 36°00'N wind, sea and time (p125) Marfa SoutChh Caonmneilno APħorinatx Pointf# swPiimcWt uairneedds q siuln-eoG rbħkeeaalsc (rhpi 1to31) ParĊairdkieswe wBaay#\ MMaarr#\ffaa Peninsula Mellieħa 35º58'N MelliBeħaay#\ MBealyl#]ieħa 33 Often-Bcrluowe dLeadg oboutn lovely AncBhaoyr Mellieħa Ridge swimming spot (p133) 3Ras il- M3aPjtajairls-ktral#\BMajadnaik Raitdage 35º56'N WGaoħlxden Bay #\Għajn Wardij a Tuffieħa Ras il- Mġarr Pellegrin #\ #\ Żebbiegħ Fomm ir- 35º54'N RRasi ħir B-ay Victori a Raħeb Għemieri #\ #\ Baħrija L-Andrijet#\ Mtaħleb#\ 35º52'N Dingli MEDITESREARANEAN Cliffs ELEVATION 35º50'N 500m 400m 300m 200m 100m 0 35º48'N e# 0 10km 0 5miles 14º24'E 14º26'E 14º28'E 14º30'E 14º32'E 14º34'E 14º36'E MEDITERRANEAN SEA Mdina & Rabat Full of architectural and historic splendour (p91) MALTA Valletta St John's Co-Cathedral and St Paul's other historical gems (p42) Islands Salina #\XemSxti jBPaaayul's#]BugibbBaay MQaarlketu To Italy RidBgue#\rWmaarrdriajad#\Victoria BĊLaaMħginaħaerdaċsqli-e#\na#\ĊBaagħħaarċq- Bay atmStousnpVnhiientrtgioc vr aiieollwseayss a (npd59) San Pawl#\Tat-#\Għargħur #\StJulian's #\Tarġa Lines Mo#\sta #\Naxxar ĠSw#\aannn wwSLIEMf#A HMayls tSneearciforliouepsn ouil niHsd y(eppr6go4rgo)euunmd #\Lija Birkirkara Balzan#\ #\ f##_ VALLETTA TA'XBIEX Ghain FLORIANA Qaj#\jied #\Mdina #\Attard MSwwIDA f#VSIETNTGOLREIOASA IdyllicS stw Piemtmeri'ns gP sopoolt with #\Rabat ĦAMRUN KORDIN COSPICUA flat rocks to laze on (p105) #\HBaajljada #\Żebbuġ Qo#\rmi MAPAROSALA BTOARLG #\Żabbar Żo#\nqor Żonqor Point #\Dingli Malta InternAaitriopnoartl Lu#\qa #\Tarxien Marsaskala#\ MIalr-Ġsazsirkaala Bay Tas #– T(2a'5Ż3Rumta) PBroaSvjjiiaġdTdġeaainelTzw#\aali#\#\ QSraelnv#\adtiu#\r#\MqŻaubrbriaeq ww GħaĦxaalq#\- Ma#\rsaxlokkZSgothf TriIrahla- oIMzm-uansx Baray GLaħpasri ä# #\ Birżebbuġa#\ Marsaxlokk St Peter's Pool Bay Delimara Point Ħaġar Qim & Għar Lapsi Mnajdra Temples Natural swimming pool Ancient megalithic marvels Bengħisa Point sheltered among rocks (p112) (p110) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 8 Malta & Gozo’s Top 10 Valletta Dwejra 1 Malta’s capital (p42), named the Euro- 2 The thrilling coastline of Dwejra (p125), pean Capital of Culture for 2018, is a remark- in Gozo, features astoundingly beautiful able city. Only 1km by 600m, with every street rock formations that have been sculpted by leading to the sea, the walled city is a harmoni- the wind and sea (they’re so dramatic it’s been ous ensemble of 16th- and 17th-century town- used as a location for Game of Thrones). Take houses fronted by traditional Maltese balconies. a boat trip through the Azure Window, an arch The last few years have seen Valletta bloom, with of rock that forms a doorway to the ocean, and new restaurants and an emerging nightlife area visit the Inland Sea, a wonderful place to swim in Strait St, its former red-light district. You’ll feel and snorkel when the weather is calm. Close the excitement the moment you walk through to the coast, the great chunk of Fungus Rock the striking City Gate, and see the cutting-edge rears from the piercing blue Mediterranean. Parliament Building and Opera House – all three monuments designed by Renzo Piano. 1 NEALE CLARK/GETTY IM AGES ©
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