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Lonely Planet Italy (Travel Guide) PDF

981 Pages·2016·58.11 MB·English
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Italy PDF ebook Edition 12th Edition Release Date Feb 2016 Pages 976 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. FDP easy-to-use How to Use This Book 4 sections Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 Sights 4 Sleeping 1 r Beaches 5 Eating PLAN YOUR TRIP 2 Activities 6 Drinking Your planning tool kit C Courses 3 Entertainment Photos & suggestions to help T Tours 7 Shopping you create the perfect trip. Festivals Information z & Events 8 & Transport All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we 2 suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price Your complete guide range s(,b buyd agueth, mori dpraenfegree,n tcoep. end) and, within these Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips. These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required 3 % Telephone number f Ferry UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds W Wi-f access q quad rooms s Swimming pool r rooms v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites c Family-friendly tr triple rooms 4 # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms g Bus SURVIVAL GUIDE Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. Vital practical information for a smooth trip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Italy Milant h&eT (Drpeo3nl0oto3m) &ites (FVpre4inu0el7iz)ia Giulia Turin, the Lakes Venice & Piedmont & the (p238) the Veneto Italian Riviera (p335) (p161) Emilia-Romagna & San Marino (p434) Fl Toursecnacney & ULem Mbrairac &he (p479) (p576) Abruzzo & Rome & Molise Lazio (p633) (p62) Naples & Campania Sardinia (p650) (p840) Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria (p714) Sicily (p774) THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Cristian Bonetto, Abigail Blasi, Kerry Christiani, Gregor Clark, Belinda Dixon, Duncan Garwood, Paula Hardy, Brendan Sainsbury, Donna Wheeler, Nicola Williams P LAN ON THE ROAD YOUR TRIP Welcome to Italy 6 ROME & LAZIO 62 Lago Maggiore 261 Lago d’Orta 267 Italy Map 8 Rome 63 Lago di Como 268 Lazio 148 Italy’s Top 18 10 Lago d’Iseo 279 Ostia Antica 148 Need to Know 20 Lago di Garda 281 Tivoli 150 First Time Italy 22 The Po Plain 291 Cerveteri 151 What’s New 24 Tarquinia 152 Bergamo 291 Brescia 295 Viterbo 153 If You Like… 25 Mantua 297 Castelli Romani 156 Month by Month 29 Cremona 301 Palestrina 158 Itineraries 33 South Coast 158 Eat & Drink Like a Local 39 Isole Pontine 159 TRENTO & THE DOLOMITES 303 Outdoor Experiences 46 TURIN, PIEDMONT Trentino 306 Travel with Children 54 & THE ITALIAN Trento 306 Regions at a Glance 57 RIVIERA 161 Rovereto 310 Liguria 164 Brenta Dolomites 311 Genoa 164 Val di Non & Val di Sole 314 Around Genoa 175 Val di Fiemme 315 Riviera di Levante 176 Val di Fassa 316 Cinque Terre 181 Alto Adige (Südtirol) 317 Around Cinque Terre 189 Bolzano (Bozen) 317 Riviera di Ponente 192 Merano (Meran) 323 Piedmont 196 Val Venosta (Vinschgau) 326 Turin 197 Parco Nazionale The Milky Way 213 dello Stelvio 326 Southern & Eastern POMPEII, P686 Val Gardena Piedmont 214 (Gröden/Gherdëina) 327 Varallo & the Valsesia 226 Alpe di Siusi & Valle d’Aosta 227 Parco Naturale Aosta 228 Sciliar-Catinaccio 329 Courmayeur 232 Val Badia & Alpe di Fanes 332 Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso 235 Val Pusteria (Pustertal) 333 Valtournenche 237 VENICE & MILAN & THE VENETO 335 THE LAKES 238 Venice 338 Milan 239 The Veneto 382 Around Milan 260 Brenta Riviera 382 CINQUE TERRE, P181 The Lakes 261 Padua 383 WITOLD SKRYPCZAK/GETTY IMAGES © ANDREW PEACOCK/GETTY IMAGES © Contents iecV naz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 8 8 FLORENCE Urbino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 2 2 eV or na . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 3 9 & TUSCANY 479 eP soar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 2 5 eV or nsa’ inW e Country . . 4 01 Florence 482 oGr tte asdri F assi . . . . . . . 6 2 6 orP seocc Country . . . . . . 3 4 0 Central Tuscany 518 Maec atr a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 2 6 eV neto oD lomites . . . . . . . 4 0 4 S iena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 1 8 sA oc li P iec no . . . . . . . . . . 6 2 8 Chianti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 2 6 Monti Sib i l l ini . . . . . . . . . . 6 3 1 FRIULI VENEZIA al d’ E l Vsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 3 3 a S rnano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 3 2 GIULIA 407 acli a r O d ’ & V r ieT ste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 0 9 a l d i VChiana . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4 1 ABRUZZO & Mug i a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 4 1 Southern Tuscany 545 MOLISE 633 Il Csar o . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 4 1 M assa Mar ittima . . . . . . . 5 5 4 Abruzzo 636 Gorizi a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1 8 Città deauf l T . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5 4 ocar P N a z ionale de l a l m anP oav . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1 9 Central Coast & Elba 549 anGr aSsso e Mont i qu i A leia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1 9 oLiv rno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 94 della a L a g . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 3 6 a doGr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 0 2 Isola d’ E a l b . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 5 4 S u l mona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 3 6 oAr und adoGr . . . . . . . . . . 4 2 1 Northwestern oAr und Su l mona . . . . . . . 6 3 9 Tuscany 557 ocar P N a z ionale La g una di anMar o . . . . . . 4 2 1 P isa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5 5 della M a jella . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 0 oP der none . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 2 2 L a u c c . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 6 5 a cnS no . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 1 d i Une . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 2 2 P ietasr anta . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 5 6 ocar P N a z ionale Civid a le derilu l i F . . . . . . . 7 4 2 oAbru z z d ’ , L a z io e aSn anD iele derilu l i F . . . . 4 2 9 Eastern Tuscany 570 Molise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 3 North of diUne . . . . . . . . . 4 2 9 eAr ozz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 7 5 eP saacr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 5 4 oT lmeozz & Carnia . . . . . . 4 3 0 a Snsepoolcr . . . . . . . . . . . 3 7 5 Chieti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 6 a r v isT io & the Cortona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 7 5 asV to &o Ar und . . . . . . . . . 7 6 4 G i u l ie Aslp . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3 0 Molise 647 UMBRIA & Campoasb so . . . . . . . . . . . 7 6 4 EMILIA-ROMAGNA LE MARCHE 576 aSepinum . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 8 & SAN MARINO 434 Umbria 577 Isernia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 8 Emilia-Romagna 435 eP rugi a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 7 5 eT rmoli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 8 Bologna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3 5 oT gianr o . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 8 8 A a lnb iano T wns . . . . . . . . . 6 94 Modena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 4 8 oLag asr T i meno . . . . . . . . 95 8 eR gio mEi l i a . . . . . . . . . . 5 4 6 oT di . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 9 5 NAPLES & arma P . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4 8 sA sisi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 4 5 CAMPANIA 650 Busseto & S pelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 0 1 Naples 651 eV di rCountry . . . . . . . . . . 4 6 3 G u b b io . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 6 0 Bay of Naples 674 Piaec naz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 6 4 S poleto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 0 5 Capri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 7 6 eF a ar r r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 6 4 Nocia r & thealn V erina . . 6 0 9 Ischia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 8 0 evaR nna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 4 6 r O v ieto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 1 1 orP ci d a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 8 3 R i m ini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 7 4 Le Marche 616 South of Naples 684 San Marino 478 Anoc na . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 6 1 ocrE l ano & ocar P del Coneor . . . . . . . 6 2 1 Heculanr eum . . . . . . . . . . 6 8 4 ON THE ROAD Mt Vesuvius 686 Parco Nazionale Taormina 804 dell’Aspromonte 765 Pompeii 686 Catania 808 Reggio di Calabria 766 Sorrento 692 Mt Etna 814 Southern West of Sorrento 696 Syracuse & Tyrrhenian Coast 768 the Southeast 815 Amalfi Coast 697 Syracuse 815 Positano 697 SICILY 774 Noto 822 Praiano & Furore 701 Palermo 778 Modica 825 Amalfi 701 Tyrrhenian Coast 790 Ragusa 826 Ravello 703 Cefalù 790 Central Sicily & the South of Amalfi 705 Mediterranean Coast 830 Aeolian Islands 792 Costiera Cilentana 710 Agrigento 830 Lipari 793 Agropoli 710 Western Sicily 833 Vulcano 797 Parco Nazionale del Marsala 834 Cilento e Vallo di Diano 710 Salina 798 Selinunte 835 Stromboli 802 Trapani 835 PUGLIA, BASILICATA Ionian Coast 804 & CALABRIA 714 Puglia 715 Bari 715 Around Bari 721 Promontorio del Gargano 724 Isole Tremiti 729 Valle d’Itria 730 Lecce 736 Brindisi 741 Southern & Western Salento 744 Basilicata 749 Matera 749 Metaponto 756 Potenza 757 Appennino Lucano 757 Basilicata’s Western Coast 758 Calabria 759 Northern Tyrrhenian Coast 760 Cosenza 762 Parco Nazionale della Sila 763 Ionian Coast 764 ST PETER’S BASILICA, P94 ANDREAS STRAUSS/GETTY IMAGES © Contents UNDERSTAND rEiec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 3 8 Alghero & Italy Today 884 eS eg sta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 3 9 the Northwest 862 History 886 Algheor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6 2 SARDINIA 840 oAr und Al g heor . . . . . . . . . 8 6 6 IAtraclihainte Acrttu r&e 901 Stintino &o c ar P Cagliari 844 Nazionale desA l’ inar . . . 7 8 6 The Italian Way Around Cagliari 851 aSssari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6 8 of Life 920 ilaVsimius . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 5 1 Olbia, the Costa Italy on Page Costa eR i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 5 2 Smeralda & the & Screen 927 ICgolesstia adesl Sud & C &hia the . . . 8 5 2 GOlbi a allu. r. . a. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8986 69 The Italian Table 931 Southwest 853 Costa Smealda r & I g lesias . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 5 3 oAr und . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 7 8 Costea V der . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 5 4 a Sntea T er sa di aG a l l u r . . 3 7 8 Oristano & the West 855 alau LP a &c i peAMra d d a leolagn da i . . . . . . . . . . 4 7 8 r O istano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 5 5 Nuoro & the East 875 SURVIVAL oT Shianr sis e& Pthen insula . . . . . . . . . 7 8 5 N uoor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 7 8 GUIDE North rOistano Coast . . . 9 8 5 a moSupr nte . . . . . . . . . . . 7 7 8 Goolf di orO sei . . . . . . . . . 97 8 O g l i astar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 8 1 Directory A–Z 938 Transport 950 Language 958 Index 965 Map Legend 974 SPECIAL FEATURES Eat & Drink Like 3D Uffizzi Gallery a Local 39 Illustration 490 3D Roman Forum Chianti Wine Tour 530 Illustration 7 2 3D Pompeii Fashion 258 Illustration 688 Design 286 Sicilian Desserts 800 Venetian Artistry 362 Renaissance Art 906 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 6 Welcome to Italy Italy is an extraordinary feast of heart- thumping, soul-stirring art, food and landscapes rivalled by few and coveted by millions. Cultural Riches Buon Appetito Epicentre of the Roman Empire and birth- It might look like a boot, but food-obsessed place of the Renaissance, Italy groans Italy feels more like a decadently stuffed under the weight of its cultural cachet: it’s Christmas stocking. From delicate taglia- here that you’ll stand in the presence of telle al ragù to velvety cannoli, every bite Michelangelo’s David and Sistine Chapel feels like a revelation. The secret: superla- frescoes, Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and tive ingredients and strictly seasonal pro- Primavera and da Vinci’s The Last Supper. duce. And while Italy’s culinary soul might In fact, Italy has more Unesco World Herit- be earthy and rustic, it’s equally ingenious age Sites than any other country on Earth. and sophisticated. Expect some of the Should you walk in the footsteps of saints world’s top fine-dining destinations, from and emperors in Rome, revel in Ravenna’s San Pellegrino ‘World’s Best 50’ hotspots to glittering Byzantine treasures or get breath- Michelin-starred musts. So whether you’re less over Giotto’s revolutionary frescoes in on a degustation odyssey in Modena, truffle Padua? It’s a cultural conundrum as thrill- hunting in Piedmont or swilling power- ing as it is overwhelming. house reds in the Valpolicella wine region, prepare to swoon. Bella Vita In few places do art and life intermingle so Luscious Landscapes effortlessly. This may be the land of Dante, Italy’s fortes extend beyond its galler- Titian and Verdi, but it’s also the home ies, plates and wardrobes. The country is of Prada, Gualtiero Marchesi and Renzo one of Mother Nature’s masterpieces, its Piano. Beauty, style and flair furnish every geography offering extraordinary natural aspect of daily life, from those immaculate- diversity. From the north’s icy Alps and ly knotted ties and perfect espressos, to the glacial lakes to the south’s volcanic craters flirtatious smiles of striking strangers. The and turquoise grottoes, this is a place for root of Italian psychology is a dedication doing as well as seeing. One day you’re tear- to living life well and, effortless as it may ing down Courmayeur’s powdery slopes, seem, driving that dedication is a reverence the next you could be riding cowboy-style for the finer things. So slow down, take note across the marshes of the Maremma, or div- and indulge in a little bella vita. ing in coral-studded Campanian waters. 7 Why I Love Italy By Crisian Bonetto, Author Italy’s 20 regions feel more like 20 independent sates, each with its own dialects, traditions, architecture and glorious food. From nibbling on knödel in an Alto Adige chalet to exploring souk-like market sreets in Sicily, the choices are as diverse as they are seductive. Then there’s the country’s incomparable artisic treasures, which amount to more than the res of the world’s put together. It’s hard not to feel a little envious sometimes, but it’s even harder not to fall madly in love. For more about our authors, see page 976 Above: Geisler Gruppe, Alto Adige (Südtirol; p317) FRIEDRICH SCHMIDT/GETTY IMAGES © r o o n r a n P iera ente I Riv n T a Sole di Po n V al di Po a Danube r r n Danube o a n Italy u e# 0 100 mil2e0s0 km b MC]#oodGuad Brenme IPrnelni\#a ae3G#\drnyvcrçueAaoaou VlWMo n\# 4ngNVr VBa Nsa3iePa CPaliEkytLl °ahilztiIiyNcalRonrin#^eaSatgLoe#]auqSNa ldg#_u÷#ndIralWePuG3elanrmai ais-^#geHeIi lUaoh(e\#EaIn opnTRTinToDcukn1euhIp MRr9ZeArtVer mG r6aiOaiEepnZr)lvrcadao N\#aRüi(ra'nlLOnlepsTorondaLsigr1scge' t8a sAPMha]#toGs 1hGha G)Ne(ierilupe#^nganlD2hofnod 3oC-a#^i5afBsr)l3oetLCePimaotr_#GaugmCrLoPo#^oBdVaca÷#oERirdi novdepmagAreMO aoierNnolPdMDlaoMnIosrPeao#^aLiUonsalcr azliASlIanclsieo3iM^#ZARtioGat aneCGM-en^#oa NlNaTci^#rvavAMnariaiLA^#rlertMoiEVqenztafedLusraiuiV#÷lsteimatnobcgo#^e soutGrgrnatcn aoalToao#\ata#^#\nen]#lrnVe^#roC]#daTarEaHeUA^#^N]#^#SISCl^#BEABpIFAVCrn^#Voe TSlNPoAuDnNioAilPdOcilatTiolsLorPezi Nsp oeOdIbeMgl#^SeanaerioYrnrurn^# nindnbamrgvLAuzacueaioAosceoaiR enigtkTt lmr#^#^ed\#VaoIoT#^iCoesNakionRbedzAU leLCO#_e^#ianmzaPRM\# ir]#go(iovaoeNdc]#pBnle#\]# mzLmDeyaI23GzRnAUAS\#n’6aoeos#\Iun#^rspZonl 8AbVbtsaoI#\)Pai#^iOlbUvnINseGa\#\ePoitdoro\#osTAaria#\c#\andrUi]#^#SroAa^#evoGai3#^Sn÷#s^#MrCoincoTArahPDoirnczRasineioeirecelaI ctCrosoAiaSotlt_#^#^#^itecnS PasPCeRLgseLrloiJeieorcsjuOU raecIanBtkanVeatiDarLo tlEamyeJo#]t ’ANsp ilVGS loNemlerIaimaoAnokzTni iesrMItcst se_# (eomoCapsTlwfreu3iZ Rctm0eciAoEkOs3 oGeom( )pispAmRnai3iTctEile3coeiBIa8 nIA)-tRraHeloy H(mE'^#psB U4RBac3ugOSaNC5lnAi)SEGnDajRaNGuA rOLbyIOJ^#RusrAEoikVPYjV vaeé&InOkM^#cNis^#k_#OAENLPTOEEDVSNGAEOETR5102131RG_#I05050OI0B0m0m0mRCmNIAOA 33 D Valt e te o a e r n a sai Reno v Lev i A d r i a t i c S e a e R di i Vals n a T a

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Most books are stored in the elastic cloud where traffic is expensive. For this reason, we have a limit on daily download.