Lonely Planet Italy (Travel Guide)

981 Pages·2016·58.11 MB·English

by  Cristian Bonetto

Italy
PDF ebook
Edition 12th Edition
Release Date Feb 2016
Pages 976
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FDP
easy-to-use How to Use This Book
4 sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 Sights 4 Sleeping
1 r Beaches 5 Eating
PLAN YOUR TRIP 2 Activities 6 Drinking
Your planning tool kit C Courses 3 Entertainment
Photos & suggestions to help T Tours 7 Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
Festivals Information
z & Events 8 & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
2 suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
Your complete guide range s(,b buyd agueth, mori dpraenfegree,n tcoep. end) and, within these
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
3 % Telephone number f Ferry
UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds
W Wi-f access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
4 # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Italy
Milant h&eT (Drpeo3nl0oto3m) &ites (FVpre4inu0el7iz)ia Giulia
Turin, the Lakes Venice &
Piedmont & the (p238) the Veneto
Italian Riviera (p335)
(p161) Emilia-Romagna
& San Marino
(p434)
Fl
Toursecnacney & ULem Mbrairac &he
(p479) (p576)
Abruzzo &
Rome & Molise
Lazio (p633)
(p62)
Naples &
Campania
Sardinia (p650)
(p840) Puglia, Basilicata
& Calabria
(p714)
Sicily
(p774)
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Cristian Bonetto,
Abigail Blasi, Kerry Christiani, Gregor Clark,
Belinda Dixon, Duncan Garwood, Paula Hardy,
Brendan Sainsbury, Donna Wheeler, Nicola Williams
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Italy 6 ROME & LAZIO 62 Lago Maggiore 261
Lago d’Orta 267
Italy Map 8 Rome 63
Lago di Como 268
Lazio 148
Italy’s Top 18 10
Lago d’Iseo 279
Ostia Antica 148
Need to Know 20
Lago di Garda 281
Tivoli 150
First Time Italy 22 The Po Plain 291
Cerveteri 151
What’s New 24 Tarquinia 152 Bergamo 291
Brescia 295
Viterbo 153
If You Like… 25
Mantua 297
Castelli Romani 156
Month by Month 29
Cremona 301
Palestrina 158
Itineraries 33
South Coast 158
Eat & Drink Like a Local 39 Isole Pontine 159 TRENTO & THE
DOLOMITES 303
Outdoor Experiences 46
TURIN, PIEDMONT Trentino 306
Travel with Children 54
& THE ITALIAN Trento 306
Regions at a Glance 57
RIVIERA 161 Rovereto 310
Liguria 164 Brenta Dolomites 311
Genoa 164 Val di Non & Val di Sole 314
Around Genoa 175 Val di Fiemme 315
Riviera di Levante 176 Val di Fassa 316
Cinque Terre 181 Alto Adige (Südtirol) 317
Around Cinque Terre 189 Bolzano (Bozen) 317
Riviera di Ponente 192 Merano (Meran) 323
Piedmont 196 Val Venosta
(Vinschgau) 326
Turin 197
Parco Nazionale
The Milky Way 213
dello Stelvio 326
Southern & Eastern
POMPEII, P686 Val Gardena
Piedmont 214
(Gröden/Gherdëina) 327
Varallo & the Valsesia 226
Alpe di Siusi &
Valle d’Aosta 227 Parco Naturale
Aosta 228 Sciliar-Catinaccio 329
Courmayeur 232 Val Badia &
Alpe di Fanes 332
Parco Nazionale del
Gran Paradiso 235 Val Pusteria
(Pustertal) 333
Valtournenche 237
VENICE &
MILAN &
THE VENETO 335
THE LAKES 238
Venice 338
Milan 239
The Veneto 382
Around Milan 260
Brenta Riviera 382
CINQUE TERRE, P181
The Lakes 261
Padua 383
WITOLD SKRYPCZAK/GETTY IMAGES © ANDREW PEACOCK/GETTY IMAGES ©
Contents
iecV naz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 8 8 FLORENCE Urbino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 2 2
eV or na . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 3 9 & TUSCANY 479 eP soar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 2 5
eV or nsa’ inW e Country . . 4 01 Florence 482 oGr tte asdri F assi . . . . . . . 6 2 6
orP seocc Country . . . . . . 3 4 0 Central Tuscany 518 Maec atr a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 2 6
eV neto oD lomites . . . . . . . 4 0 4 S iena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 1 8 sA oc li P iec no . . . . . . . . . . 6 2 8
Chianti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 2 6 Monti Sib i l l ini . . . . . . . . . . 6 3 1
FRIULI VENEZIA al d’ E l Vsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 3 3 a S rnano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 3 2
GIULIA 407 acli a r O d ’ & V
r ieT ste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 0 9 a l d i VChiana . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4 1 ABRUZZO &
Mug i a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 4 1 Southern Tuscany 545 MOLISE 633
Il Csar o . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 4 1 M assa Mar ittima . . . . . . . 5 5 4 Abruzzo 636
Gorizi a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1 8 Città deauf l T . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5 4 ocar P N a z ionale de l
a l m anP oav . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1 9 Central Coast & Elba 549 anGr aSsso e Mont i
qu i A leia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1 9 oLiv rno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 94 della a L a g . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 3 6
a doGr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 0 2 Isola d’ E a l b . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 5 4 S u l mona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 3 6
oAr und adoGr . . . . . . . . . . 4 2 1 Northwestern oAr und Su l mona . . . . . . . 6 3 9
Tuscany 557 ocar P N a z ionale
La g una di anMar o . . . . . . 4 2 1
P isa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5 5 della M a jella . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 0
oP der none . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 2 2
L a u c c . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 6 5 a cnS no . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 1
d i Une . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 2 2
P ietasr anta . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 5 6 ocar P N a z ionale
Civid a le derilu l i F . . . . . . . 7 4 2 oAbru z z d ’ , L a z io e
aSn anD iele derilu l i F . . . . 4 2 9 Eastern Tuscany 570 Molise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 3
North of diUne . . . . . . . . . 4 2 9 eAr ozz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 7 5 eP saacr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 5 4
oT lmeozz & Carnia . . . . . . 4 3 0 a Snsepoolcr . . . . . . . . . . . 3 7 5 Chieti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 6
a r v isT io & the Cortona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 7 5 asV to &o Ar und . . . . . . . . . 7 6 4
G i u l ie Aslp . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3 0 Molise 647
UMBRIA & Campoasb so . . . . . . . . . . . 7 6 4
EMILIA-ROMAGNA LE MARCHE 576 aSepinum . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 8
& SAN MARINO 434 Umbria 577 Isernia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 8
Emilia-Romagna 435 eP rugi a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 7 5 eT rmoli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4 8
Bologna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3 5 oT gianr o . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 8 8 A a lnb iano T wns . . . . . . . . . 6 94
Modena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 4 8 oLag asr T i meno . . . . . . . . 95 8
eR gio mEi l i a . . . . . . . . . . 5 4 6 oT di . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 9 5 NAPLES &
arma P . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 4 8 sA sisi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 4 5 CAMPANIA 650
Busseto & S pelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 0 1 Naples 651
eV di rCountry . . . . . . . . . . 4 6 3 G u b b io . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 6 0 Bay of Naples 674
Piaec naz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 6 4 S poleto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 0 5 Capri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 7 6
eF a ar r r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 6 4 Nocia r & thealn V erina . . 6 0 9 Ischia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 8 0
evaR nna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 4 6 r O v ieto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 1 1 orP ci d a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 8 3
R i m ini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 7 4 Le Marche 616 South of Naples 684
San Marino 478 Anoc na . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 6 1 ocrE l ano &
ocar P del Coneor . . . . . . . 6 2 1 Heculanr eum . . . . . . . . . . 6 8 4
ON THE ROAD
Mt Vesuvius 686 Parco Nazionale Taormina 804
dell’Aspromonte 765
Pompeii 686 Catania 808
Reggio di Calabria 766
Sorrento 692 Mt Etna 814
Southern
West of Sorrento 696 Syracuse &
Tyrrhenian Coast 768
the Southeast 815
Amalfi Coast 697
Syracuse 815
Positano 697
SICILY 774 Noto 822
Praiano & Furore 701
Palermo 778 Modica 825
Amalfi 701
Tyrrhenian Coast 790 Ragusa 826
Ravello 703
Cefalù 790 Central Sicily & the
South of Amalfi 705
Mediterranean Coast 830
Aeolian Islands 792
Costiera Cilentana 710
Agrigento 830
Lipari 793
Agropoli 710
Western Sicily 833
Vulcano 797
Parco Nazionale del
Marsala 834
Cilento e Vallo di Diano 710 Salina 798
Selinunte 835
Stromboli 802
Trapani 835
PUGLIA, BASILICATA Ionian Coast 804
& CALABRIA 714
Puglia 715
Bari 715
Around Bari 721
Promontorio del
Gargano 724
Isole Tremiti 729
Valle d’Itria 730
Lecce 736
Brindisi 741
Southern & Western
Salento 744
Basilicata 749
Matera 749
Metaponto 756
Potenza 757
Appennino Lucano 757
Basilicata’s Western
Coast 758
Calabria 759
Northern
Tyrrhenian Coast 760
Cosenza 762
Parco Nazionale della
Sila 763
Ionian Coast 764 ST PETER’S BASILICA, P94
ANDREAS STRAUSS/GETTY IMAGES ©
Contents
UNDERSTAND
rEiec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 3 8 Alghero & Italy Today 884
eS eg sta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 3 9 the Northwest 862 History 886
Algheor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6 2
SARDINIA 840 oAr und Al g heor . . . . . . . . . 8 6 6 IAtraclihainte Acrttu r&e 901
Stintino &o c ar P
Cagliari 844 Nazionale desA l’ inar . . . 7 8 6 The Italian Way
Around Cagliari 851 aSssari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6 8 of Life 920
ilaVsimius . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 5 1 Olbia, the Costa Italy on Page
Costa eR i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 5 2 Smeralda & the & Screen 927
ICgolesstia adesl Sud & C &hia the . . . 8 5 2 GOlbi a allu. r. . a. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8986 69 The Italian Table 931
Southwest 853 Costa Smealda r &
I g lesias . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 5 3 oAr und . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 7 8
Costea V der . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 5 4 a Sntea T er sa di aG a l l u r . . 3 7 8
Oristano & the West 855 alau LP a &c i peAMra d d a leolagn da i . . . . . . . . . . 4 7 8
r O istano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 5 5 Nuoro & the East 875 SURVIVAL
oT
Shianr sis e& Pthen insula . . . . . . . . . 7 8 5 N uoor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 7 8 GUIDE
North rOistano Coast . . . 9 8 5 a moSupr nte . . . . . . . . . . . 7 7 8
Goolf di orO sei . . . . . . . . . 97 8
O g l i astar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 8 1 Directory A–Z 938
Transport 950
Language 958
Index 965
Map Legend 974
SPECIAL FEATURES
Eat & Drink Like 3D Uffizzi Gallery
a Local 39 Illustration 490
3D Roman Forum Chianti Wine Tour 530
Illustration 7 2 3D Pompeii
Fashion 258 Illustration 688
Design 286 Sicilian Desserts 800
Venetian Artistry 362 Renaissance Art 906
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
6
Welcome to
Italy
Italy is an extraordinary feast of heart-
thumping, soul-stirring art, food and
landscapes rivalled by few and coveted
by millions.
Cultural Riches Buon Appetito
Epicentre of the Roman Empire and birth- It might look like a boot, but food-obsessed
place of the Renaissance, Italy groans Italy feels more like a decadently stuffed
under the weight of its cultural cachet: it’s Christmas stocking. From delicate taglia-
here that you’ll stand in the presence of telle al ragù to velvety cannoli, every bite
Michelangelo’s David and Sistine Chapel feels like a revelation. The secret: superla-
frescoes, Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and tive ingredients and strictly seasonal pro-
Primavera and da Vinci’s The Last Supper. duce. And while Italy’s culinary soul might
In fact, Italy has more Unesco World Herit- be earthy and rustic, it’s equally ingenious
age Sites than any other country on Earth. and sophisticated. Expect some of the
Should you walk in the footsteps of saints world’s top fine-dining destinations, from
and emperors in Rome, revel in Ravenna’s San Pellegrino ‘World’s Best 50’ hotspots to
glittering Byzantine treasures or get breath- Michelin-starred musts. So whether you’re
less over Giotto’s revolutionary frescoes in on a degustation odyssey in Modena, truffle
Padua? It’s a cultural conundrum as thrill- hunting in Piedmont or swilling power-
ing as it is overwhelming. house reds in the Valpolicella wine region,
prepare to swoon.
Bella Vita
In few places do art and life intermingle so Luscious Landscapes
effortlessly. This may be the land of Dante, Italy’s fortes extend beyond its galler-
Titian and Verdi, but it’s also the home ies, plates and wardrobes. The country is
of Prada, Gualtiero Marchesi and Renzo one of Mother Nature’s masterpieces, its
Piano. Beauty, style and flair furnish every geography offering extraordinary natural
aspect of daily life, from those immaculate- diversity. From the north’s icy Alps and
ly knotted ties and perfect espressos, to the glacial lakes to the south’s volcanic craters
flirtatious smiles of striking strangers. The and turquoise grottoes, this is a place for
root of Italian psychology is a dedication doing as well as seeing. One day you’re tear-
to living life well and, effortless as it may ing down Courmayeur’s powdery slopes,
seem, driving that dedication is a reverence the next you could be riding cowboy-style
for the finer things. So slow down, take note across the marshes of the Maremma, or div-
and indulge in a little bella vita. ing in coral-studded Campanian waters.
7
Why I Love Italy
By Crisian Bonetto, Author
Italy’s 20 regions feel more like 20 independent sates, each with its own dialects, traditions,
architecture and glorious food. From nibbling on knödel in an Alto Adige chalet to exploring
souk-like market sreets in Sicily, the choices are as diverse as they are seductive. Then
there’s the country’s incomparable artisic treasures, which amount to more than the res of
the world’s put together. It’s hard not to feel a little envious sometimes, but it’s even harder
not to fall madly in love.
For more about our authors, see page 976
Above: Geisler Gruppe, Alto Adige (Südtirol; p317)
FRIEDRICH SCHMIDT/GETTY IMAGES ©
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33
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