Lonely Planet Cambodia (Travel Guide)

371 Pages·2014·35.931 MB·English

by  Nick Ray

P
D
F
Cambodia
PDF ebook
Edition 9th Edition
Release Date Aug 2014
Pages 368
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4 easy-to-use
sections How to Use This Book
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
Your planning tool kit 1 4
Sights Sleeping
Photos & suggestions to help
r 5
you create the perfect trip. Beaches Eating
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05-if-you-likea-cab9.indd 16-17
ON THE ROAD All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Your complete guide
Expert reviews, easy-to-use Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
maps and insider tips. suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
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SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
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24-directory-cab9.indd 328-329
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Cambodia
Temples of
Angkor
p118
^#
^#
Siem Reap
p86
Northwestern Eastern Cambodia
Cambodia p251
p210
#_
Phnom Penh
p30
South Coast
p159
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Nick Ray, Greg Bloom
Remember to run the 4C > 2C
script for 2 colour books
(the colour of the Plan banner
must reflect the Plan section)
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Cambodia . . . 4 PHNOM PENH . . . . . .30 Thommanon . . . . . . . . . . .145
Cambodia’s Top 10 . . . . . . .8 Around Phnom Penh . . .80 Spean Thmor . . . . . . . . . .145
Koh Dach . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 Ta Keo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .14
Udong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Ta Nei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146
If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . .16 Tonlé Bati . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 Ta Prohm . . . . . . . . . . . . .146
Month by Month . . . . . . . .18 Phnom Tamao Wildlife Banteay Kdei &
Rescue Centre . . . . . . . . . .83 Sra Srang . . . . . . . . . . . . .147
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Phnom Chisor . . . . . . . . . .84 Prasat Kravan . . . . . . . . . .147
Regions at a Glance . . . . 26 Kirirom National Park . . . .84 Preah Khan . . . . . . . . . . . .148
Preah Neak Poan . . . . . . .149
Ta Som . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
SIEM REAP . . . . . . . .86
Eastern Baray &
Around Siem Reap . . . . .114 Eastern Mebon . . . . . . . . 150
Prek Toal
Pre Rup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
Bird Sanctuary . . . . . . . . 114
Banteay Samré . . . . . . . .150
Ang Trapeng
Thmor Reserve . . . . . . . . 114 Western Baray &
Western Mebon . . . . . . . . 151
Floating Village of
Chong Kneas . . . . . . . . . . 115 Roluos Temples . . . . . . . .151
ITAL_VITA/GETTY IM KKMooemm Cpphoornneygg PK .lhu .l .ke .a . .n . .g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111111577 BLAPorarelokeauoih nn . gKd . .oA . . n . . . . . .g . . .k . . .o . . .r . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111155552211
AGES © TEMPLES OF Phnom Krom . . . . . . . . . .152
ANGKOR . . . . . . . . . .118 Phnom Bok . . . . . . . . . . . .152
Chau Srei Vibol . . . . . . . .152
Angkor Wat . . . . . . . . . .130
Banteay Srei . . . . . . . . . . .153
Angkor Thom . . . . . . . . .139
Kbal Spean . . . . . . . . . . . .153
Bayon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139
Phnom Kulen . . . . . . . . . .154
Baphuon . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142
TROPICAL FRUIT (P317)
Beng Mealea . . . . . . . . . .155
Royal Enclosure &
Phimeanakas . . . . . . . . . .142 Remote Angkorian
Sites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156
Preah Palilay . . . . . . . . . .143
Koh Ker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156
TIM Tep Pranam . . . . . . . . . . .143
BARKER/GETTY IMAGES © PTLTKeeerleerrprraaeaanhrccg eeKPs ii oont&hffg utEP h lr .ee a . .p s . . ha . .at . . n . .t . .s . . . . . . . . . . . . .111444433 KKKSoooOhhhU KKKToooHnnngg gC CC POoitrnyAos .vSe .inrT .vc . a .e .t . . .io . . . .n . . . . .1 .11566911
Suor Prat . . . . . . . . . . . . .144 Corridor . . . . . . . . . . . . . .166
Around Angkor Thom . .144 Kompong Som
Baksei Chamkrong . . . . .144 Province . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Phnom Bakheng . . . . . . .144 Sihanoukville . . . . . . . . . .170
KOH KONG (P161) Chau Say Tevoda . . . . . . .145 The Southern Islands . . 187
Remember to run the 4C > 2C
script for 2 colour books
(the colour of the Plan banner
must reflect the Plan section)
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Banteay Meanchey Cambodia Today . . . . . .284
Province . . . . . . . . . . . . .232
ANDERS BLOM PSoisioppeht .o .n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .223325 HPofoi slt thPoeor ytK & .h .m t .he .e .r .RL .eo .gu .ag .ce .y . . . . . .320863
QVIST/GETTY IM BOPradondvtaeinra cyMe Ce .ha .hn .mc .h .ae .ry . . . . . . . . . . . . . .223367 FPoeoodp l&e &D rCinuklt .u .r .e . . . . . . . . . . . .330166
AGES © ADnanlognrge kV eMnogu n . .ta .i .n .s . . . . . . . . . . .223397 Environment . . . . . . . . . .321
Preah Vihear
Province . . . . . . . . . . . . .239 SURVIVAL
Preah Vihear City . . . . . . .240
PRASAT SUOR PRAT (P144), GUIDE
ANGKOR THOM Prasat Preah Vihear . . . . .241
Veal Krous Vulture
Koh Ta Kiev . . . . . . . . . . . .187 Feeding Station . . . . . . . .243 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .328
Koh Russei . . . . . . . . . . . . .188 Preah Khan . . . . . . . . . . . .243 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . .339
Koh Thmei . . . . . . . . . . . . .188 Kompong Thom
Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347
Koh Rong & Koh Province . . . . . . . . . . . . .245
Rong Samloem . . . . . . . . .188 Kompong Thom . . . . . . . .246 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . .351
Koh Sdach Archipelago . .191 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .359
Kampot Province . . . . .192 EASTERN
Kampot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192 CAMBODIA . . . . . . . 251
Bokor National Park . . . .199 Kompong Cham SPECIAL
Kep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 Province . . . . . . . . . . . . .253 FEATURES
Takeo Province . . . . . . .206 Kompong Cham . . . . . . . .253 Phnom Penh
Takeo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206 Kratie Province . . . . . . .258 image gallery . . . . . . .60
Kratie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .258 Siem Reap
NORTHWESTERN Stung Treng Province . .262 & Around
CAMBODIA . . . . . . . 210 Stung Treng . . . . . . . . . . . .263 image gallery . . . . . .100
Kompong Chhnang Ratanakiri Province . . .266 Angkor Wat
Province . . . . . . . . . . . . . .211 Ban Lung . . . . . . . . . . . . . .267 illustrated
highlights . . . . . . . . . . 132
Kompong Chhnang . . . . . 211 Mondulkiri Province . . .275
Pursat Province . . . . . . 215 Sen Monorom . . . . . . . . . .275 Pol Pot &
the Legacy of the
Pursat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .215 Seima Protected Khmer Rouge . . . . . . .303
Kompong Luong . . . . . . . .216 Forest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .281
Northern Cardamom Koh Nhek . . . . . . . . . . . . . .282
Mountains . . . . . . . . . . . . .217
Battambang Province . .218
Battambang . . . . . . . . . . .218
Pailin Province . . . . . . .229
Pailin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .230
Samlaut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
4
Welcome to
Cambodia
Ascend to the realm of the gods, Angkor
Wat. Descend into hell at Tuol Sleng
prison. With a history both inspiring
and depressing, Cambodia delivers an
intoxicating present.
An Empire of Temples phins. The northeast is a world unto itself,
its wild and mountainous landscapes a
Contemporary Cambodia is the successor
home for Cambodia’s ethnic minorities and
state to the mighty Khmer empire, which,
an abundance of natural attractions.
during the Angkorian period, ruled much of
what is now Laos, Thailand and Vietnam.
The Comeback Capital
The remains of this empire can be seen
at the fabled temples of Angkor, monu- Just as Angkor is more than its wat, so too
ments unrivalled in scale and grandeur in is Cambodia more than its temples. The
Southeast Asia. The traveller’s first glimpse chaotic yet charismatic capital of Phnom
of Angkor Wat, the ultimate expression of Penh is a hub of political intrigue, economic
Khmer genius, is sublime and is matched vitality and intellectual debate. All too often
by only a few select spots on earth, such as overlooked by hit-and-run tourists ticking
Machu Picchu and Petra. off Angkor on a regional tour, the revitalised
city is finally earning plaudits in its own
Upcountry Adventures right thanks to a gorgeous riverside loca-
tion, a cultural renaissance and a wining
Siem Reap and Phnom Penh may be the
and dining scene to rival anywhere in the
heavyweights, but to some extent they are
region.
a bubble, a world away from the Cambo-
dia of the countryside. This is the place
The Cambodian Spirit
to experience the rhythm of rural life and
timeless landscapes of dazzling rice pad- Despite having the eighth wonder of the
dies and swaying sugar palms. The South world in its backyard, Cambodia’s real
Coast is fringed by tropical islands, with treasure is its people. The Khmers have
just a handful of beach huts in sight. Inland been to hell and back, struggling through
from the coast lie the Cardamom Moun- years of bloodshed, poverty and political
tains, part of a vast tropical wilderness instability. Thanks to an unbreakable spirit
that provides a home to elusive wildlife and infectious optimism, they have pre-
and is the gateway to emerging ecotourism vailed with their smiles intact. No visitor
adventures. The mighty Mekong River cuts comes away without a measure of admira-
through the country and is home to some of tion and affection for the inhabitants of this
the region’s last remaining freshwater dol- enigmatic kingdom.
5
ROBERT CHURCHILL/GETTY IM
AGES ©
Why I Love Cambodia
By Nick Ray, Author
Where to start? I first came through Cambodia as a young backpacker in 1995 and the intoxi-
cating history captured my attention. However, the people were the most memorable part
of that first trip, their smiles infectious. Angkor is spectacular and special and continues to
reward, no matter how many times you visit. The coastline is beautiful and blissfully undevel-
oped compared with some of the region. And it remains a frontier for motorbike rides from
the Cardamoms in the southwest to Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri in the northeast. Even as it
evolves, Cambodia remains a real adventure.
For more about our authors, see page 368
Above: Produce seller, near Siem Reap
Cambodia
Cambodia
Prasat Preah Vihear
THAILAND Mother of all mountain
temples (p241) Dangkrek Mountains
(Chuor Phnom Dangkrek)
Temples of Angkor Chong Chom Choam
Thaerc whaoerlodlo’sg micoasl ts iitme p(pre1s1s8i)ve O Smach Srawngam Prasa tV Pirheeaahr Preah Vihear
Choam Protected
Samraong Sra Em Forest
Banteay Chhmar Anlong Veng Choam
Protected Landscape ODDAR Ksant
Banteay Chhmar MEANCHEY
Siem Reap Ang Trapeng Kulen Promtep
The hip new face of Thmor Pouk Thmor Wildlife Sanctuary Tbeng
Cambodia (p86) ThAmnogr TRreaspeernvge Protected ForestSIEM Koh Ker Meanchey
Aranya Prathet MBEAANNTCEHAEYY AngRkEoArP NPhantioomna Kl Pualernk SraKyuolenng
Poipet SisMopohnognkol KBroarleainh LParnodtescctaepdePKhnuolemn MBeenaglea WBeinldgl iPfeer Sanctuary
Roneim Daun Sam Temples of (487m) Svay LeuKhvau Ta Seng
Wildlife Sanctuary MuTltoinpllée SUaspe Me CAhnrgekyor Siem Reap PKrheaanh
KdKuoouchk PArerkea Toal Dam Dek Phnom Den
Daun Lem Kamrieng BattambangBird Sanctuary VFillolaagtein ogf Kompong
Ban Pakard Psar PruhmKTamrPeopnyigngRKeeasnegi TBRoionesslpéeh rSveaCerpehong TKonLnealaéks eSapKhleang Stoeng Sambor KPrueki
Pailin Boeng Tonlé Chhmar
KPRAOILNING MUSasumel tAliapruletea BATTAMBANG MRuosusenig KompongWildlifKeo Smanpcotnuga rTyhom
Luong
Pursat
Battambang
Cloifleosntiyalle- eerxap gereimen, cgeast e(wp2a1y8 t)o KPhrnapomang Krakor Tonlé
TratWilPdhlinfeo mSa Snacmtukaorys(1711m) PoutRihviserat KOMPONG KCohmhpnoannggSapRiver
PhnomCentral Cardamons PURSAT CHHNANG
Ko Chang S(1a7m17kmos)Protected Forest Phnom(1 8A1u3rma)l Romeas
12º N Ko Kut KhloHngat Y Laeik K(CrhauvCaoMnrh hoPCau)hanmnrtdoamai nmYsoemKamna(Pn1S2hgoP1 nTu3rotrmomhate)eprcentae nCdg aFrodraemstons PWhinldolmife A Suarnacltuary Udong KANDAL
Krong Koh Kong KOMPONG PHNOM PENH
Peam Krasaop SPEU
Gulf of ThailandWildlife Sanctuary Koh KrongKOH KONG Kompong Speu Takhmau
Conservation
Koh Kong Corridor Kirirom
Kampot Chi PhatNational Ta Moa
Laid-back little charmer, Park Protected
11º gNaTtheaewnS dpaih ylia satclnoae n oBfduoorskk vb(opierl1 al(7ecp0h1)9es2)Koh SamitBNoatKtuioomnh a SRl aPoknaorgrk KKPGob rFmSauoloolpt frCmeo eocnhstf gtheKdaOAyMmSNRVrPbeeaeOBentaliPholNoaknGBroakoSrlkta(oDCtaEhrimu loeHorpernhi )iPalhnlKnt oMamomKunAtpaiMonstPOKCRTKhOhEPNuTkaGAsanoTgmukk MTaFPenohairsnTeTaoDs PAkmDthaeKenoEnoOm
Kep Sihanoukville ReamSOMTKhmohei NatiPoKanerapkl Kep KTPorrameckhp Conhgak Tinh Bien
Seaside retreat from National Koh Xa Xia
Cambodia’s golden era (p200) Park Phu Quoc Tonsay Ha Tien
Island
102º E 103º E
0 50 km
0 25 miles
Ratanakiri
Jungle romps and adrenalin-
fuelled excursions (p266)
LAOS Virachey
National
PrPorteeachte Vd iFhoeraerst Muang Khong Siem Pang Park
Nong Nok Khiene Voen Sai
PREAH Ko Chheuteal Trapaeng RATANAKIRI
VIHEAR Thom Kriel STUNG
RivSeren RStauTmhnagsla aTr B rSeoinrtaegvit ASSnteuliomnngag TrTeonnKlogéngTRTENonGlé San BLaunm Lpuhnagt BLYooemeankg OBo'Ykahdeaow Le Tanh
Rovieng Lomphat Mondulkiri
Wildlife Sanctuary The wild east (p275)
River Koh Nhek
ng
Meko WildliPfeh nSoamnc tPuraicrhy Mondulkiri
KOMPONG MONDULKIRI Protected
THOM Sambor Forest
Sandan
KRATIE
Nam Lear
Kratie Wildlife
Baray Sen Monorom Sanctuary
Spoe Tbong Snoul
Wildlife
STtruanngg Chhlong SanctuarySre Khtum
KOMPONG
CHAM Kratie
Kompong Snuol Trapaeng Sre Rare dolphins in the Mekong
Skuon Cham River (p258)
Suong Loc Ninh
Chub
Krau
Trapaeng Memot
Plong
Xa Mat
VIETNAM
Prey Veng
PREY
LuNoenagk Ba PhVnoENmG RSIVEANYG Tay ThPeh ‘pneoamrl Poef nAhsia’
BassasTonléKaam CBahnatkeraeyy Svay RiengChipBhaNuvienth Moc Bai is back (p30)
Samnor
Khanh ELEVATION
Vinh Xuong Binh
HO CHI MINH CITY 1500m
Chau Doc (SAIGON) 1000m
500m
250m
0
S O U T H C H I N A
107º E S E A 108º E
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