Lonely Planet Austria

419 Pages·2017·26.33 MB·English

by  Lonely Planet

P
D
F
Austria
PDF ebook
Edition 8th Edition
Release Date May 2017
Pages 416
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4 easy-to-use How to use this book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 4
Sights Sleeping
r 5
Beaches Eating
2 6
PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking
C 3
Courses Entertainment
Your planning tool kit
T 7
Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
z Festivals 8 Information
& Events & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
ranges, by writer preference.
ON THE ROAD
Your complete guide
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Austria
Vienna
p60
Upper Austria
#_
p158 Lower Austria
& Burgenland
The p121
Salzkammergut
p207
Salzburg & Styria
Tyrol & Vorarlberg Salzburgerland p179
p291 p227
Carinthia
p269
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Marc Di Duca,
Kerry Christiani, Catherine Le Nevez, Donna Wheeler
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Austria . . . . .4 VIENNA . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Southern Styria . . . . . .193
Austria Map . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Deutschlandsberg . . . . . . 193
Austria’s Top 23 . . . . . . . .8 LOWER AUSTRIA & Ehrenhausen . . . . . . . . . . . 194
Need to Know . . . . . . . . .20 BURGENLAND . . . . . 121 Leutschach . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
First Time Austria . . . . . . 22 Riegersburg . . . . . . . . . . . . 195
Lower Austria . . . . . . . .124
If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . .24 The Sausal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
The Danube Valley . . . . . . 124
Month by Month . . . . . . . 26 Northern Styria . . . . . .196
Waldviertel &
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Weinviertel . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Mariazell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
Skiing & Wienerwald . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Bruck an der Mur . . . . . . . 198
Snowboarding . . . . . . . . . 33 March-Donauland . . . . . . . 139 Leoben . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
Hiking in Austria . . . . . . . 39 St Pölten . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Eisenerz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Cycling & Süd-Alpin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Nationalpark Gesäuse . . . 201
Adventure Sports . . . . . . 46
Burgenland . . . . . . . . . . 147 Admont . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201
Eat & Drink
Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Eisenstadt . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Johnsbach . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
Regions at a Glance . . . . 56 Güssing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 Western Styria . . . . . . . 203
Lockenhaus . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Schladming . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
Neusiedler See . . . . . . . . . 152 Murau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
Wiesen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
M
RGB/SHUTTERSTOCK © LAUirPnozPu . nE .d .R .L .Ai .nU .zS . . .T . . .R . . .I .A . . . . . . . . . . . . .111556897 BSTSoaHAduLE tIZ hs KecrhAnlM . .M .E . .R .G . .U .T . . . .220097
Salzkammergut . . . . . . .211
St Florian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Hallstätter See . . . . . . . . . 211
Mauthausen . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Bad Aussee . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
The Traunviertel . . . . . . 170
Northern
Steyr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Salzkammergut . . . . . .216
Bad Hall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
ACHENSEE, P310 Traunsee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
Nationalpark Kalkalpen . . 172
Attersee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
Wels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Wolfgangsee . . . . . . . . . . . 221
Kremsmünster . . . . . . . . . 174
Mondsee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
ANIBAL TREJO/SHUTTERSTOCK © TFTBSGrhhcreeaheeiinusä bMItnrnadeaüdnriunghtv . gail . . evm . . . ir . . .et I . . .ern . . .tlne . . . .l . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111111777777656857 SAHSSareAAolllLzLubbZZnruuBdBrn UgUSn . .R aR . .l .G .zG . .bE . .u&R . .r . . Lg . . .A . . . .N . . . . .D . . . . . . . .222252250097
Hallein & Around . . . . . . . 251
STYRIA . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Werfen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
Graz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181 Southern Salzburg
SCHLOSS MIRABELL, P231 Around Graz . . . . . . . . .193 Province . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
Bärnbach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Filzmoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Radstadt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Kitzbühel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Austria
Mauterndorf . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Kufstein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346
Hohe Tauern Söll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348
National Park . . . . . . . .255 Seefeld . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 Architecture . . . . . . . . . 364
Zell am See . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Stams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Visual Arts & Music . . . 370
Bad Gastein . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 The Ötztal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Kaffeehäuser – Austria’s
Grossglockner Road . . . . 265 Imst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Living Rooms . . . . . . . .376
Heiligenblut . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Ehrwald . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 The Austrian Alps . . . . . 378
Krimml . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 Landeck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321
Inntal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322
CARINTHIA . . . . . . . 269 Ischgl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322
SURVIVAL
Klagenfurt . . . . . . . . . . . 271 Arlberg Region . . . . . . . . . 324
GUIDE
Central Carinthia . . . . .276 Vorarlberg . . . . . . . . . . . 330
Villach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 Bregenz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331
Faaker See & Dornbirn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 384
Ossiacher See . . . . . . . . . . 279 Bregenzerwald . . . . . . . . . 336 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 393
Dreiländereck . . . . . . . . . . 279 Feldkirch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 402
Hermagor . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Bludenz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409
Eastern Carinthia . . . . . 280 Montafon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342 Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 415
Friesach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280
Gurk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
Hüttenberg . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
St Veit an der Glan . . . . . .282
Burg Hochosterwitz . . . . . 282
Wörthersee . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
Western Carinthia . . . .283
Gmünd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
Millstatt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
Spittal an der Drau . . . . . 285
Weissensee . . . . . . . . . . . . 286
Lienz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287
SPECIAL FEATURES
TYROL &
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Achensee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 kunsthistorisches-museum-IH.indd All Pages 12/12/2016 2:11:29 PM
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
4
Welcome to
Austria
No country waltzes so effortlessly
between the urban and the outdoors as
Austria. One day you’re cresting alpine
summits, the next you’re swanning
around imperial Vienna.
Cue High Culture Baroque & Beyond
You’ll still feel the immense wealth of the Austria might conjure visions of baroque
Habsburg culture reverberating through churches, palatial Habsburg headquarters
Austria today – be it watching Lipizzaner like Schloss Schönbrunn, and Gothic crown-
stallions prance at the Spanish Riding ing glories like the Stephansdom. But the
School, or crossing the Hofburg to eyeball country is more than pomp and palaces. A
Rubens masterpieces in the Kunsthis- fresh breath of architectural air and a feel
torisches Museum. The work of classical of new-found cool is sweeping through the
pop stars such as Mozart, Strauss, Mahler, cities, bringing with it a happy marriage
Haydn and Schubert echo as loudly as ever of the contemporary and historic. Some of
at lavishly gilded concert halls, and music the most eye-catching icons are actually the
festivals like Salzburg Festival and Bregen- newbies: Vienna’s Museums Quartier in re-
zer Festspiele are staged against uplifting vamped imperial stables, the colour- shifting
lakeside or mountain backdrops. giant Rubik’s Cube of Ars Electronica in
Linz and the sci-fi ready Kunsthaus Graz.
River Deep, Mountain High
Food at the Source
The journey really is the destination in
Austria. Perhaps yours will be a meander- Guess what? There’s more to Austrian cui-
ing one through deeply carved valleys, sine than schnitzels and dumplings. The
on railways that unzip the Alps to thread country has come on in culinary leaps and
improbably along sheer mountain flanks, bounds, while staying true to its ethos of
past glaciers and through flower-flecked careful local sourcing. Vegan, organic, for-
meadows. Such lyrical landscapes may have aged, Slow Food: they are more than just
you itching to leap onto a bicycle saddle or buzzwords. Whether you’re at a farmers mar-
lace up hiking boots to reach those entic- ket, a retro-style deli, a cool new brunch spot
ingly off-the-radar corners of the country. or a Michelin-starred restaurant, the love
In winter, the slopes hum with skiers and of the land shines through time and again.
boarders, while summer beckons white- Asparagus in spring, Marille (apricots) in
water rafters and canyoners to glacial rivers summer, mushrooms, game and new wine
and lakes that sparkle like gemstones. Der in autumn – Austria likes its food to swing
Berg ruft – the mountain calls! with the seasons and taste of the source.
5
DINKASPELL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Why I Love Austria
By Kerry Christiani, Writer
Austria looks small on the map, but most of it is vertical, so there’s always another hairpin-riddled
lane, off-the-radar village or knockout alpine view to discover. As a hiker, I’m never happier than
when dangling off a 2000m precipice on a trail in Tyrol or Salzburgerland – watching the spring-
time eruption of wildflowers, say, or the last light creep down immense peaks of limestone.
Alpenglühen, they call it. Then there are Vienna’s fabulous coffee houses and phenomenal art,
the romance of the vine-laced Wachau, the crystal-clear lakes of Salzkammergut and Carinthia’s
medieval villages, not to mention the castles, abbeys and cakes everywhere. What’s not to love?
For more about our writers, see p416.
Above: Mountain vista, Salzburg region (p250)
GERMANY M in
ai
n
Austria
#]Nuremberg
3333333333333333 33
33333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333 #]Regensburg 3
^#Stuttgart
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Braunau
GERMANY amInn
#\
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#\Memmingen
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Innsbruck DSrtoaprn ibnetrog this glittering
Enjoy culture infused ice empire (p252) Salzburg
Bodensee with Tyrolean nature (p293) nI Bad ^##–
(Lake Constance) n 3333Reichenhall333#\
Bregenz^# Kufstein#\ SALZBURGTennengebirge
VHaodDhueozn#_rRenhneimDb#\asBiFrvlVe#\nBuolrddsO#]3333333eek#\S#\gRinerc#\zcnhAhzwAeRarlwrLbPzaeaBelrsndEgs333333bR#åecS#\rSaGAg#\trnOAalnbmbneaetrorcgsIn#\tLn33nd#\aSontrWdaf(ne3iczl7kdR7s4pÖmi#\ttz)zTeRimTZ(IcY2mnu9Rnge6sOls3spbjLmiotr#–cz)uhe^#cHkca#\MllB(a1yr3re7hn433333333oS#\nmfWce#åehrI)nKawn#\PWrsanasizömsesrrKgmfäiltl#\zl333333elSbre(#YüSaG#÷hArleEzoHlLasd#åosNcZegh(hl#\a3BlwPeotS7ae333iTUcPpS9orikaiaansk8nR(znusz2amia#geeGel5Slfrarr)eg7puRnEal7eidntrmReKJ(Rzg2#\eno)La3RsZ#\ZiGA3336eseeBrfe9lloNslarlms-aed-WHsDrFmg)RGeröl)SdoaraShecCf#\nseekeeirtznenc#\e-euir#ni333t
SWITZERLAND PRaessschen Pass Lienz#\#\
(1508m)
3Kr3333333333333333immler W33333asserfälle 33333333333333333333333
Austria’s spectacular 360m-
high waterfall (p267)
Grossglockner Road
3333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333Pinzgauer Spaziergang Europe’s sensational
Walk one of Austria’s alpine drive (p265)
great alpine trails (p263)
3333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333 ^#Trento
ELEVATION Udine^#
ITALY
4500m
3333333333333333 3000m33333333333333333333
1500m Portogruaro
1000m #\
750m
500m
33333333333333333 250m Adriatic
0 Sea
333333333
CZECH
REPUBLIC
e# 0 100km
0 50miles
CZECH REPUBLIC
333
Brno
The Wachau #]
Hike, dine or cycle
in the valley (p124) Vienna
3333333333 Explore Vienna’s
imperial palaces (p60)
AusStrtiiaft’s M gleolrkious Drosendorf#\ #\Znojmo
Benedictine abbey (p131) Retz#\
#\Horn
Passau
#\ h
Inn UPPER AUS#\TFrReiIsAtadt dKerreDmosnaanu#\ LOWER#\HAo#\USllatSobcTrukRenrnIaAu MarScLOVAKIA
Linz^# TheWachau Tulln#\
Traun#\#\#– Danube #\Melk ^#StPölten Vie#_nn#–a
Mondsee G#\Tmraunu dn e3W#\nels Ans3#\EfeSnldtneensyr #\Wd#\eaAridmYhbsobtfesetnteann BPaedrBecnahdtboVeldWiösWsidelaioneurenf#\r#\#\#\Möd#\linSNgcaehmuwsNSeieeceduehlas#\itBedrlaerti#_slava
#\#\StEbensBeaed#\#\Traunkirchen RH(N1o9och6ke3rm) Mariazell#\Sch(n2e0e7b6emrg)RNNeuenuksitracdhet#\n Eise#\nstadtSee
Gilgen #\IschlTHE33#÷ Ternitz#\#\
SALZKAMMERGUTNationalpark Semmering\ #\Gloggnitz #\Sopron
Hallsta#\ttBa#\dAussee#\ K#\aAldkmalopnetn #\Eisenerz Mürzzuschlag#\ Oberpullendorf
Stainach- Kapfenberg #\
Irdning #]
R#\adstadt#\Haus STYRIALeobe#\n B#\ruckan Oberwart
Unzmarkt- derMur #\
3Tamsweg Frauenburg#\ #\ BURGENLAND #\Szombathely
#\ #\ Judenburg Köflach Graz #\ Güssing
#\Rennweg Murau Voitsbe#\rg#\ #]#– BlBumadau #\
3Spittalan CARINTHIA Feldbach#\ HUNGARY
der#\Drau StVeitan #]Wolfsberg Bad
Feldkirchen#\#– #\derGlan #\StAndräEhrenhausen#\Radkers#\berg
Villach#\ KlWagöertnhfeur#]rstee Völk'#\ermarDktrau Semmeringbahn
Ride the spectacular
railway to Semmering (p147)
Admont
Hallstätter See Fascinating exhibitions set
Dip into refreshing in historic architecture (p201)
Salzkammergut lakes (p211) D
rava
Nova #_Ljubljana CROATIA
#\Gorica Sava
Zagreb
SLOVENIA #_
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