Table Of Content

P D F Australia PDF ebook Edition 18th Edition Release Date Nov 2015 Pages 1112 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here 4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book sections Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 4 Sights Sleeping 1 r 5 Beaches Eating 2 6 PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking C 3 Courses Entertainment Your planning tool kit T 7 Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping you create the perfect trip. z Festivals 8 Information & Events & Transport All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: 2 Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these Your complete guide ranges, by author preference. Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips. These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation 3 No payment required % Telephone number f Ferry UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms s Swimming pool r rooms v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites 4 c Family-friendly tr triple rooms # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms g Bus SURVIVAL GUIDE Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. Vital practical information for a smooth trip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Australia Darwin 1Around Perthp920 & Around Cape York 2Perth & Fremantle p887 p807 Peninsula p443 3Margaret River & the Southwest Coast p933 4 4Cairns & the Broome & Daintree Rainforest p401 the Kimberley 65TMWoihwsistnissouvnni lBdleae y&a cChoaps3t8p3367 Coral Coast & p1009 OuUtplbu8ar4cu3k & NT QuOeeuntbslaacnkd & 5 6 7Cthaep Sriocuotrhne Crona Rset e&f thep P9i8lb9ara Gulf Sp4a5v3annah 7 Islands p355 8Fraser Island & the Monkey Mia 8 Fraser Coastp339 & the Flinders Ranges 9 9NSuonosshai n&e t hCeoast p325 Centpr9a7l 1West & Ouptb79a1ck SA 1011 10Brisbane & Aroundp267 Southern Central & 11Sthuer fGeorsld P Caroaadsitse p&311 21 pW94A9 Yo&r Wkeep Ps7te7en9rinn sSuAla Outbpa2c3k1 NSW 13 12 12Byron Bay & Northern 18 14 NSW p157 3 17 19 16 13NSW Central Coastp143 20 23 15 14Sydney & Around p62 19Northwest Victoria p603 21 22 24 15Canberra & NSW South Coast p201 20Grampians & the Goldfieldsp563 16Southern NSW p257 21Great Ocean Road p529 25NTaosrmtha &ni aWeps6te7r9n 17Adelaide & 22Melbourne & Around p469 26Launceston & 25 26 Around p707 23Victorian High Countryp583 Eastern Tasmaniap651 27 18Barossa Valley & 24Gippsland & 27Hobart & Southeastern SA p755 Wilsons Promontory p549 Southeast Tasmaniap617 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Charles Rawlings-Way, Meg Worby Kate Armstrong, Brett Atkinson, Carolyn Bain, Celeste Brash, Peter Dragicevich, Anthony Ham, Paul Harding, Alan Murphy, Miriam Raphael, Benedict Walker, Steve Waters P LAN ON THE ROAD YOUR TRIP Welcome to Australia. . . . .6 SYDNEY & CENTRAL & AROUND .......... 62 OUTBACK NSW .... 231 Australia Map ...........8 Sydney ...............66 Tamworth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Australia’s Top 25 .......10 Hawkesbury River. . . . . 135 Armidale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 Need to Know ......... 22 Blue Mountains .......135 Tenterfield & Around . . . . 236 What’s New ........... 24 Bathurst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 If You Like… ........... 25 NSW CENTRAL Orange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 COAST ........... 143 Cowra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 Month by Month ....... 28 Newcastle . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Parkes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243 Itineraries .............31 Hunter Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Dubbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Your Reef Trip ......... 35 Mudgee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 BYRON BAY & Wentworth . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Your Outback Trip .......41 NORTHERN NSW ...157 Mungo National Park . . . . 247 Australia Outdoors .....50 Byron Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Broken Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 Regions at a Glance .... 54 Ballina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 Bourke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 Lismore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Nimbin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 SOUTHERN NSW ...257 Coffs Harbour . . . . . . . . . . 179 Bowral . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259 KIM BERLEY COOLE / GETTY IMAGES © NDBKPGoeeoaremlrrmlrtainip btgMgseuoeera .c ny .ccT . . . aqa . . . urH . . .ea . . .eer . . .ai . . .ed. . . . s.. . . . . .. . . . ... . . . ... . . . ... . . . ... . . . ... . . . ..111111988889546951 GSJYAWianlrnabsiodgfusfwag rib&tayyhy .WMAn ..era..oo . ..guu ...gnn ...at .d..a . ....i .n.... .s.... . ..... ...... ...... ...... . ......222222666666004324 Port Stephens ........198 Kosciuszko National Park . .265 Thredbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 CANBERRA & NSW SYDNEY P66 SOUTH COAST .... 201 BRISBANE & Canberra ............203 AROUND ......... 267 Wollongong ..........214 Brisbane .............269 JOHN W KBeiarmry .a . .& . .A .r .o .u .n .d . . . .. .. .. .. .. . 221187 NMoorrteht oSntr Iasdlabnrodk . e . .Is .l .a .n .d . . . .330041 HITE PHOTOS / GETTY IM NJUBealolratwvedirmsua .l Bal .ana . . sy . . . . . 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P . .A . . . .R . . . .A . .D . . . .I . .S . . . .E 33&00 69 AGES © Narooma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 THE GOLD COAST ...311 Sapphire Coast .......226 Surfers Paradise & Broadbeach . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 Bermagui . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Burleigh Heads & Merimbula . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 WILDLIFE P1056 Currumbin . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Eden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Coolangatta . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Contents NOOSA & THE Atherton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 426 GREAT OCEAN SUNSHINE COAST. ..325 Yungaburra . . . . . . . . . . . . 427 ROAD ............529 Noosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327 Port Douglas .........429 Geelong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 532 Glass House Mountains . . 332 The Daintree .........435 Great Ocean Road ....536 Caloundra . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 Cape Tribulation . . . . . . . . 437 Torquay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 536 Mooloolaba & Cooktown ............441 Anglesea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 537 Maroochydore . . . . . . . . . . 334 Lorne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 539 Cooloola Coast . . . . . . . . . 337 CAPE YORK Apollo Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540 PENINSULA .......443 Cape Otway . . . . . . . . . . . . 542 FRASER ISLAND & THE Lakeland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447 Port Campbell . . . . . . . . . . 544 FRASER COAST ...339 Laura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447 Warrnambool . . . . . . . . . . 544 Weipa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449 Port Fairy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 546 CAPRICORN COAST & Horn, Thursday & the Portland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 547 THE SOUTHERN Torres Strait Islands . . . . 451 REEF ISLANDS ....355 GIPPSLAND & WILSONS Agnes Water & OUTBACK PROMONTORY ....549 Town of 1770 . . . . . . . . . . . 357 QUEENSLAND & Walhalla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 552 Rockhampton . . . . . . . . . . 360 GULF SAVANNAH ...453 Wilsons Promontory Yeppoon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362 Mt Isa ...............455 National Park ........553 Great Keppel Island . . . . . 363 Winton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458 Sale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 557 Longreach . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459 Lakes Entrance . . . . . . . . . 559 WHITSUNDAY Barcaldine . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460 Mallacoota . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561 COAST ........... 367 Charleville ...........461 Mackay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369 Boulia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 GRAMPIANS & THE Airlie Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . 372 Bedourie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 GOLDFIELDS ......563 The Whitsundays . . . . . . . 377 Birdsville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 463 Ballarat .............566 Bowen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .382 The Savannah Way ....464 Bendigo .............570 Undara Volcanic Kyneton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 574 TOWNSVILLE & National Park . . . . . . . . . . 464 Castlemaine . . . . . . . . . . . 575 MISSION BEACH ...383 Croydon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465 The Grampians Townsville . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385 Normanton . . . . . . . . . . . . 465 (Gariwerd) ........... 577 Magnetic Island . . . . . . . . 391 Karumba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 466 Halls Gap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 580 Ingham & Around . . . . . . . 394 Mt Arapiles State Park . . . 582 Cardwell & Around . . . . . . 395 MELBOURNE & AROUND .........469 VICTORIAN HIGH Mission Beach . . . . . . . . . 396 COUNTRY ........583 Innisfail & Around . . . . . . 400 Melbourne ........... 471 Daylesford & Lake Eildon . . . . . . . . . . . . 586 CAIRNS & THE Hepburn Springs . . . . . . . 519 Mansfield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 587 DAINTREE The Dandenongs . . . . . . . 521 Mt Buller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 588 RAINFOREST ......401 Yarra Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . 522 King Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589 Cairns ...............404 Mornington Peninsula . . . 524 Milawa Gourmet Region . .590 Kuranda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424 Phillip Island . . . . . . . . . . . 526 Beechworth . . . . . . . . . . . . 591 ON THE ROAD Rutherglen . . . . . . . . . . . . . 592 Longford & Around . . . . . 676 Mount Gambier . . . . . . . . 775 Mt Buffalo National Park . . 595 Evandale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 677 Penola & the Coonawarra Bright . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 596 Wine Region . . . . . . . . . . . 777 Mt Beauty & NORTH & WESTERN the Kiewa Valley . . . . . . . . 599 TASMANIA ........679 YORKE PENINSULA & Falls Creek . . . . . . . . . . . . . 600 Devonport . . . . . . . . . . . . . 682 WESTERN SA ..... 779 Mt Hotham & Penguin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 684 Yorke Peninsula ...... 781 Dinner Plain . . . . . . . . . . . .601 Walls of Jerusalem Port Augusta . . . . . . . . . . . 784 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 686 Port Lincoln . . . . . . . . . . . . 786 NORTHWEST King Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .687 Streaky Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 788 VICTORIA .........603 Burnie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 688 Ceduna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 789 Mildura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 606 Stanley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 692 Swan Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 610 Marrawah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 693 FLINDERS RANGES Echuca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 611 Queenstown . . . . . . . . . . . 694 & OUTBACK SA .....791 Strahan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 697 Flinders Ranges ......794 HOBART & SOUTHEAST Cradle Mountain-Lake Quorn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 796 TASMANIA .........617 St Clair National Park . . . 699 Hawker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 797 Hobart ..............618 Southwest Flinders Ranges Richmond . . . . . . . . . . . . . 637 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 703 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 798 Mt Field National Park . . .638 Coober Pedy . . . . . . . . . . . 801 ADELAIDE & Bruny Island . . . . . . . . . . . 639 Oodnadatta Track . . . . . . . 805 AROUND ......... 707 Huonville & Around . . . . . 643 Birdsville Track . . . . . . . . . 805 Geeveston & Around . . . . 644 Adelaide ............. 710 Strzelecki Track . . . . . . . . 806 Dover & Around . . . . . . . . 644 Adelaide Hills ........733 Tasman Peninsula ....646 Hahndorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 734 DARWIN & Port Arthur . . . . . . . . . . . . 648 McLaren Vale . . . . . . . . . . 737 AROUND .........807 Willunga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 740 Darwin ..............812 LAUNCESTON & Victor Harbor . . . . . . . . . . 741 Mandorah . . . . . . . . . . . . . 827 EASTERN Port Elliot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 742 Tiwi Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . 828 TASMANIA ........ 651 Goolwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 743 Mary River Region . . . . . . 830 Oatlands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 654 Kangaroo Island ......745 Litchfield National Park . . 832 Ross . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 654 Kakadu National Park . . . 834 Campbell Town . . . . . . . . . 655 BAROSSA VALLEY & Arnhem Land . . . . . . . . . . 841 Maria Island SOUTH EASTERN SA ..755 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 656 Barossa Valley ........758 ULURU & Swansea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 658 Clare Valley ..........763 OUTBACK NT .....843 Coles Bay & Freycinet Murray Bridge . . . . . . . . . . 767 Katherine ............846 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 660 Barmera & Around . . . . . . 768 Nitmiluk (Katherine Bicheno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 662 Loxton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 769 Gorge) National Park . . . . 849 St Helens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 664 Berri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 770 Mataranka & Elsey Bay of Fires . . . . . . . . . . . . 665 National Park ........853 Coorong National Park . . 772 Launceston ..........666 Tennant Creek ........855 Robe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 773 Tamar Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 673 Alice Springs .........857 Contents UNDERSTAND MacDonnell Ranges ...867 Albany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 954 Australia Red Centre Way Porongurup Today .............. 1036 (Mereenie Loop) ......874 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 958 History ............. 1038 Kings Canyon & Watarrka Stirling Range National Park . . . . . . . . . . 875 National Park . . . . . . . . . . 959 Aboriginal Australia ...........1049 Uluru-Kata Tjuta Esperance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 961 National Park ........880 Eyre Highway Environment ........ 1055 Uluru (Ayers Rock) . . . . . 882 (the Nullarbor) . . . . . . . . . 965 Food & Drink ........1062 Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) . . 883 Coolgardie . . . . . . . . . . . . . 966 Sport. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1066 Kalgoorlie-Boulder . . . . . . 966 PERTH & FREMANTLE ......887 MONKEY MIA & THE Perth ................893 CENTRAL WEST ....971 Fremantle ............912 Dongara-Port Denison . . . 973 Geraldton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 974 AROUND PERTH ...920 Kalbarri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 979 SURVIVAL Rottnest Island Shark Bay ...........982 GUIDE (Wadjemup) ..........922 Denham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 983 York . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 926 Monkey Mia . . . . . . . . . . . . 985 Deadly & Toodyay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 926 Carnarvon . . . . . . . . . . . . . 986 Dangerous .......... 1070 Rockingham . . . . . . . . . . . 927 Directory A−Z ........1072 Mandurah . . . . . . . . . . . . . 927 CORAL COAST & Dwellingup . . . . . . . . . . . . . 928 THE PILBARA .....989 Transport ...........1086 Cervantes & Coral Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 992 Index ...............1098 Pinnacles Desert . . . . . . . 930 Exmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .994 Map Legend ..........1109 New Norcia ..........932 Ningaloo Marine Park . . . 999 Cape Range MARGARET RIVER & National Park . . . . . . . . . 1000 THE SOUTHWEST The Pilbara .........1002 COAST ...........933 Karijini National Park . . . 1004 Bunbury . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 935 Port Hedland . . . . . . . . . . 1006 Busselton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 936 Dunsborough . . . . . . . . . . 937 BROOME & THE SPECIAL FEATURES Margaret River KIMBERLEY ......1009 Wine Region .........938 Sydney Harbour The Kimberley ....... 1012 Yallingup & Around . . . . . 938 3D Illustration ........80 Derby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1012 Margaret River . . . . . . . . . 942 Sydney’s Beaches ....100 Gibb River Road . . . . . . . 1014 Augusta & Around . . . . . . 945 Wyndham . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1019 Great Barrier Reef Pemberton . . . . . . . . . . . . . 947 Gateways ............410 Kununurra . . . . . . . . . . . . 1020 Purnululu National Park & Ultimate Outback .....869 SOUTHERN WA ....949 Bungle Bungle Range . . .1022 Indigenous Art & Walpole & Nornalup . . . . . 951 Broome .............1024 Culture ..............870 Denmark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 952 Dampier Peninsula . . . . . 1032 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 6 Welcome to Australia Is the grass always greener on the other side of the fence? Peek over the pickets and find out. This vast country is affluent, multicultural and laced with natural splendour. Hip Cities Food & Drink Most Australians live along the coast, and Australia plates up a multicultural fusion most of these folks live in cities – 89% of of European techniques and fresh Pacific- Australians, in fact. It follows that cities rim ingredients – aka ‘Mod Oz’ (Modern here are a lot of fun. Sydney is a glamorous Australian). Seafood plays a starring collusion of beaches, boutiques and bars. role − from succulent Moreton Bay bugs to Melbourne is all arts, alleyways and Aus- delicate King George whiting. Of course, sie Rules football. Brisbane is a subtropical beer in hand, you’ll still find beef, lamb and town on the way up; Adelaide has festive chicken at Aussie barbecues. Don’t drink grace and pubby poise. Boomtown Perth beer? Austra lian wines are world-beaters: breathes west coast optimism; Canberra punchy Barossa Valley shiraz, Hunter Val- transcends political agendas. While the ley semillon and cool-climate Tasmanian tropical northern frontier town of Darwin, sauvignon blanc. Tasmania produces and the chilly southern sandstone city of outstanding whisky too. Need a caffeine Hobart, couldn’t be more different. hit? You’ll find cafes everywhere, coffee machines in petrol stations, and baristas in The Wide Open Road downtown coffee carts. There’s a heckuva lot of tarmac across this Arts & Culture wide brown land. From Margaret River to Cooktown, Jabiru to Dover, the best way to No matter which city you’re wheeling into, appreciate Australia is to hit the road. Car you’ll never go wanting for an offbeat hire is relatively affordable, paved road con- theatre production, a rockin’ live band, ditions are generally good, and beyond the lofty art-gallery opening, movie launch big cities traffic fades away. If you’re dri ving or music festival mosh. This was once a a campervan, you’ll find well-appointed country where ‘cultural cringe’ held sway – caravan parks in most sizable towns. If the notion that anything locally produced you’re feeling adventurous, hire a 4WD simply wasn’t up to scratch. But these days and go off-road: Australia’s national parks the tables have turned. Aboriginal arts – and secluded corners are custom-made for particularly painting and dance – seem camping trips down the dirt road. immune to such fluctuations and remain timelessly captivating. 7 COPYRIGHT REALFEEL / GETTY IM AGES © Why We Love Australia By Charles Rawlings-Way & Meg Worby, Lonely Planet Writers We’ve both been living in this great southern land for 30-something years, and there are still places here that we haven’t explored. This isn’t to say that we’ve been sitting at home eating popcorn and watching David Attenborough – we’re travel writers! It’s just that Australia is so damn big. Even if we spent the next 30-something years on an endless round-Australia road trip, there’d still be surprises out there. And that, for a couple of restless road-addicts, is a very comforting reality. For more about our writers, see page 1112 Above: Twelve Apostles (p543) Australia INDONESIA EAST SAVU SEA TIMOR Cobourg Melville Peninsula Island 10°S TISMEOAR BaItshluarnsdt Darwin ^# Jabiru Kakadu National Park #÷#\ Tropical wilds (p834) Kakadu Cape National Londonderry Joseph Park 15°S IONCDEIAANN LeCvaepqeue KiWmTybhnederhleaBymon#\GaupK#\laufnrutenurVraictoriareRvi W#\aDKteMaarl#\taysht#\earrianneka Broome Broome#]Derby#\ CrFoistFzsriinot#\zgyr o y RiverC#\Hraelelsk Miraculous colours of Tennant#\ Creek desert and sea (p1024) NORTHERN PortHedland#\ TERRITORY 20°S NorthDampier#\#\Karratha The UlurSuom-Kea stear iTojuustlay NP West Pilbara big red rocks (p880) Cape Exmouth#\ MacDonnellR#]anges #\Newman Gibson Alice Desert Springs WESTERN Yulara LittleSandy #\ Desert AUSTRALIA #÷ Carnarvon#\ KaUtlauTruju-ta 25°S SBhaaryk VGicrteoartia NationalParkMarla#\ Desert SOUTH South Australian AUSTRALIA \#Mt Magnet Wine Regions #\ Coober INDIAN Top drops down south (p758) Pedy Geraldton#] OCEAN Kalgoorlie NullarborPlain #] -Boulder Eucla#\ Ceduna 30°S #\ Perth^# Norseman#\ Fremantle#] GreatAustralian Bight BuBsusnebltounry#\#] \#Wagin #\Esperance Melbourne MargaretRiver#\ Hipsters, sports and LeCeaupwein A#]lbany kick-ass coffee (p469) Great Ocean Road 35°S World-class road trip ELEVATION Fremantle and great surf (p529) Australia’s coolest 2000m little city (p912) 1500m Cradle Mountain 1000m SOUTHERN Amazing views from 750m Tassie’s famous peak (p699) 500m OCEAN 250m MONA 0 Unique, challenging and 40°S unmissable arts (p622) 110°E 115°E 120°E 125°E 130°E 135°E