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Lonely Planet Argentina PDF

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P D F Argentina PDF ebook Edition 10th Edition Release Date August 2016 Pages 640 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. 4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book sections Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 4 Sights Sleeping r 5 Beaches Eating 2 6 PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking C 3 Courses Entertainment Your planning tool kit T 7 Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping you create the perfect trip. z Festivals 8 Information & Events & Transport All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these Your complete guide ranges, by author preference. Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips. These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required % Telephone number f Ferry UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms s Swimming pool r rooms v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites c Family-friendly tr triple rooms # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms g Bus SURVIVAL GUIDE Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. Vital practical information for a smooth trip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Argentina Salta & the Iguazú Falls & Andean Northwest the Northeast p218 p150 Córdoba & the Central Mendoza & Sierras Uruguay the Central Andes p285 p517 p318 Buenos Airesp52 The Pampas & the Atlantic Coast Bariloche & p115 the Lake District p356 Patagonia p400 Tierra del Fuego p492 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Sandra Bao, Gregor Clark, Bridget Gleeson, Carolyn McCarthy, Andy Symington, Lucas Vidgen P LAN ON THE ROAD YOUR TRIP Welcome to Argentina . . . . 6 BUENOS AIRES . . . . . 52 Santa Rosa . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Argentina Map . . . . . . . . . .8 Tigre & the Delta . . . . . . . 113 Reserva Provincial Parque Luro . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Argentina’s Top 20 . . . . . . 10 Parque Nacional Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20 THE PAMPAS & THE Lihué Calel . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 ATLANTIC COAST . . .115 What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Atlantic Coast . . . . . . . . 135 If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Northern Pampas . . . . . . 116 San Clemente La Plata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 del Tuyú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Month by Month . . . . . . . 26 Luján . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Pinamar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 San Antonio de Areco . . . 123 Villa Gesell . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Argentina Outdoors . . . . 34 Southern Pampas . . . . . 125 Mar del Plata . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Eat & Drink Tandil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Necochea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Sierra de la Ventana . . . . 128 Bahía Blanca . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Travel with Children . . . . 45 Parque Provincial Regions at a Glance . . . . . 47 Ernesto Tornquist . . . . . . . 132 FELICITAS MOLINA/GETTY IMAGES © PATAGONIALANDSCAPES/SHUTTERSTOCK © CSAANPT AIONNTOCANPIOT IDOEN A PR0E0C0O P123 ELOJOTORPE/GETTY IM AGES © CFAARPOT IJOONSCÉA IPGTNIOANC IPO0 P05060 Contents IGUAZÚ FALLS & Parque Nacional Quilmes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 THE NORTHEAST . . . 150 El Palmar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Santiago del Estero . . . . . 270 Concordia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Along the Río Paraná . . . 151 Catamarca & Paso de los Libres . . . . . . 187 La Rioja . . . . . . . . . . . . .272 Rosario . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Misiones . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Catamarca . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Santa Fe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Posadas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Belén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Cayastá . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 San Ignacio . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Londres & El Shincal . . . . 276 Paraná . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Santa Ana & Loreto . . . . . 194 Western Catamarca . . . . . 277 Corrientes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Santa María la Mayor . . . 195 La Rioja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 Mercedes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Iguazú Falls . . . . . . . . . . 196 Chilecito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 Reserva Provincial Esteros del Iberá . . . . . . . 177 Puerto Iguazú . . . . . . . . . . 197 Parque Nacional Talampaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Along the Río Uruguay . . 181 Parque Nacional Iguazú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203 Concepción del Uruguay . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Gran Chaco . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 CÓRDOBA & THE Colón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Parque Nacional do CENTRAL SIERRAS . . 285 Iguaçu (Brazil) . . . . . . . . . 211 Córdoba . . . . . . . . . . . . .287 Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil) . . . 215 The Central Sierras . . . 299 Cosquín . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 SALTA & La Cumbre . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301 THE ANDEAN San Marcos Sierras . . . . . 302 NORTHWEST . . . . . . 218 Jesús María . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Salta & Jujuy Alta Gracia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Provinces . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Villa General Belgrano . . . 308 Salta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 La Cumbrecita . . . . . . . . . 309 Valles Calchaquíes . . . . . . 233 Parque Nacional Cafayate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Quebrada del Quebrada de Cafayate . . . 245 Condorito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 San Antonio de los Mina Clavero . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Cobres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 San Luis & Around . . . . . 311 Salinas Grandes . . . . . . . . 246 Merlo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Jujuy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 San Luis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312 Las Yungas . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 Balde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 Quebrada de Parque Nacional Humahuaca . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 Sierra de las Quijadas . . . 315 La Quiaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Valle de las Sierras Yavi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Puntanas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 Tucumán & Around . . . . 261 Valle de Conlara . . . . . . . . 316 Tucumán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Tafí del Valle . . . . . . . . . . . 266 MENDOZA & THE Around Tafí del Valle . . . . 269 CENTRAL ANDES . . . 318 Santa María . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Mendoza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 CLAA PBTOIOCAN,C BAUPETNIOONSC AAIPRTEISO N PP06400 Amaicha del Valle . . . . . . . 269 Cacheuta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 ON THE ROAD PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET © NIGEL HICKS/GETTY IMAGES © CSAANPT TIOELNMCOA,P TIONCAPTION` CSAANPT MIOANRCTAÍNP TDIEO NLOCAS P TION PB0U0E0NOS AIRES P63 PA0N0D0ES P378 Potrerillos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 BARILOCHE & THE PATAGONIA . . . . . . . 400 Villavicencio . . . . . . . . . . . 337 LAKE DISTRICT . . . 356 Coastal Patagonia . . . .401 Uspallata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 Bariloche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 Puerto Madryn . . . . . . . . . 401 Los Penitentes . . . . . . . . . 338 Parque Nacional Around Puerto Madryn . . . 409 Puente del Inca . . . . . . . . . 339 Nahuel Huapi . . . . . . . . . . 368 Coastal Río Negro . . . . . . 409 Parque Provincial El Bolsón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371 Reserva Faunística Aconcagua . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 Around El Bolsón . . . . . . . 375 Península Valdés . . . . . . . 410 Las Cuevas & Villa la Angostura . . . . . . . 375 Trelew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414 Cristo Redentor . . . . . . . . 340 Villa Traful . . . . . . . . . . . . . 377 Around Trelew . . . . . . . . . . 418 Parque Provincial Volcán Tupungato . . . . . . . 341 San Martín de Gaiman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 los Andes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378 San Rafael . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 Around Gaiman . . . . . . . . 420 Cerro Chapelco . . . . . . . . . 384 Cañón del Atuel & Área Natural Protegida Valle Grande . . . . . . . . . . . 343 Parque Nacional Punta Tombo . . . . . . . . . . . 420 Lanín . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385 Malargüe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343 Camarones . . . . . . . . . . . . 420 Junín de los Andes . . . . . . 388 Around Malargüe . . . . . . . 345 Cabo Dos Bahías . . . . . . . 424 Aluminé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389 Las Leñas . . . . . . . . . . . . . .345 Comodoro Rivadavia . . . . 424 Villa Pehuenia . . . . . . . . . . 390 Ruta Nacional 40 . . . . . . . 346 Puerto Deseado . . . . . . . . 427 Caviahue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392 San Juan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 Monumento Natural Copahue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392 Bosques Petrificados . . . 428 Around San Juan . . . . . . . 350 Chos Malal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394 Puerto San Julián . . . . . . . 429 Valle de Calingasta . . . . . .350 North along the Parque Nacional San José de Jáchal . . . . . 353 Ruta Nacional 40 . . . . . . . 394 Monte León . . . . . . . . . . . . 430 Rodeo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353 Zapala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .395 Río Gallegos . . . . . . . . . . . 431 San Agustín de Parque Nacional Inland Patagonia . . . . . 434 Valle Fértil . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 Laguna Blanca . . . . . . . . . 396 Esquel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434 Parque Provincial Neuquén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396 Ischigualasto . . . . . . . . . . . 355 Trevelin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439 Parque Nacional Los Alerces . . . . . . . . . . . . 440 Contents UNDERSTAND Argentina TIERRA DEL FUEGO 492 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576 RICHARD MCM UPTiaserhrquruaae ida Ne . la . Fc .ui .oe .ng .ao .l . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540983 HLiifset oinry A . r .g .e .n .t .i .n .a . . . . . . . . . . . . 558788 ANUS/GETTY IMAGES © TRPouíoleh rGutiorna Wn&di lLeliaa . gm . o . s .F .(a C .g .hn .ia l .en .) o . . . . . . . . . 555111321 TALTihhrtgeeee rSNnaotatuiutnurnaerd . a& .sl . WoC .f .oi n .rel .dm . . .a . . . . . . . .555999042 URUGUAY . . . . . . . . . . 517 Montevideo . . . . . . . . . . 520 Western Uruguay . . . . .537 CRAESPETRIOVNAC FAAPUTNIOÍSNTCICAAP TION PP0EN00ÍNSULA VALDÉS P410 Colonia del Sacramento . . . . . . . . . . . . 537 Gobernador Costa . . . . . . 443 Carmelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 543 Río Mayo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 443 Mercedes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545 SURVIVAL Perito Moreno . . . . . . . . . . 443 Paysandú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 547 GUIDE Los Antiguos . . . . . . . . . . . 445 Salto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548 Cueva de las Manos . . . . . 446 Tacuarembó . . . . . . . . . . . 550 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .602 Bajo Caracoles . . . . . . . . . 447 Valle Edén . . . . . . . . . . . . . 551 Transportation . . . . . . . 614 Parque Nacional Eastern Uruguay . . . . . . 552 Perito Moreno . . . . . . . . . . 447 Piriápolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 552 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 620 Gobernador Gregores . . . 448 Punta del Este . . . . . . . . . . 553 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 629 El Chaltén . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449 La Paloma . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561 Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 638 Parque Nacional La Pedrera . . . . . . . . . . . . . 562 Los Glaciares (North) . . . 455 Cabo Polonio . . . . . . . . . . . 563 El Calafate . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458 Punta del Diablo . . . . . . . . 565 Around El Calafate . . . . . . 466 Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Santa Teresa . . . . . . . . . . . 567 Los Glaciares (South) . . . 466 Chilean Patagonia . . . . 471 Punta Arenas . . . . . . . . . . 471 SPECIAL FEATURES Monumento Natural Los Pingüinos . . . . . . . . . . 477 Going to a The Legend of Che . . .306 Parque Nacional Fútbol Game . . . . . . . . . . 66 Pali Aike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 477 Mendoza’s Wine . . . . . .328 The Tango . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Puerto Natales . . . . . . . . . 477 La Ruta de los Parque Nacional Staying on an Siete Lagos . . . . . . . . . .383 Estancia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Bernardo O’Higgins . . . . . 482 Patagonian Wildlife . . .422 Parque Nacional The Iguazú Falls . . . . . . .212 Extreme Patagonia . . . . 469 Torres del Paine . . . . . . . . 483 Quebrada de Falkland Islands/ Humahuaca . . . . . . . . .256 Uruguay’s Beaches . . . . 554 Islas Malvinas . . . . . . . . 490 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 6 Welcome to Argentina It’s apparent why Argentina has long held travelers in awe: tango, beef, gauchos, fútbol, Patagonia, the Andes. The classics alone make a formidable wanderlust cocktail. City Life Food & Drink Arriving in Buenos Aires is like jumping Satisfying that carnal craving for juicy aboard a moving train. Outside the taxi steaks isn’t hard to do in the land that has window, a blurred mosaic of a modern perfected grilling wonderfully flavorful metropolis whizzes by, and then the street sides of beef. Parrillas (steak restaurants) life appears – the cafes, the purple jaca- are everywhere and will offer up any cut randa flowers draped over the sidewalks (in you can imagine. And if you’re a fan of pizza spring), and porteños (residents of Buenos and pasta, these Italian staples are ubiqui- Aires) in stylish clothing, walking purpose- tous as well. But there’s more – in Buenos fully past handsome early-20th-century Aires you can experience a huge variety of stone facades. And it’s not just Buenos Aires ethnic cuisine, from Southeast Asian and that’s a stunner – Córdoba, Salta, Mendoza Middle Eastern to Scandinavian. Down and Bariloche each have their unique per- it all with that famous Argentine wine, sonalities and unforgettable attractions. and you’ll be struggling to maintain your waistline. Natural Wonders Argentine Culture From mighty Iguazú Falls in the sub tropical north to the thunderous, crackling advance Tango is possibly Argentina’s greatest of Glaciar Perito Moreno in the south, Argen- contribution to the outside world, a steamy tina is a vast natural wonderland. The coun- dance that’s been described as ‘making love try boasts rich wetlands, mountains painted in the vertical position.’ And what about in rustic colors – including some of the fútbol (soccer)? Argentines are passionately Andes’ highest peaks, deserts dotted with devoted to this sport and, if you’re a fan, ex- cacti, massive ice fields and arid steppes, periencing a live match should definitely be cool lichen-clad Valdivian forests, Andean on your itinerary. Add a distinctive Argen- salt flats and a spectacular Lake District. It tine take on literature, cinema, music and also offers an abundance of wildlife, includ- arts, and you have a rich, edgy culture – ing penguins, flamingos, capy baras and part Latin American and part European – more. All are stunning sights and adven- that you can’t help but fall in love with. tures just waiting to be experienced. 7 LAURIE NOBLE / GETTY IM AGES © Why I Love Argentina By Sandra Bao, Writer Argentina is my country – this is where I was born and raised, where I lived until my family emigrated to the USA. It’s changed drastically since I was a little girl, but what I love most about Argentina is its people. They’ve nurtured their creativity, adaptability and persever- ance, through good and very bad times, all while maintaining their traditions, humor and pride. I’m always happy to go back to this amazing place and its inhabitants – it’s been a real privilege. For more about our writers, see page 639 Above: Tango dancers, El Caminito (p65), Buenos Aires m rgentina & Uruguayek 00500250 miles WWWWººººBOLIVIA49496655ánLa QuiacaaIguazú Falls RaQuebrada de Humahuaca ípoAraPWitness the world's mostQDrive through spectacular,PocitosoHPARAGUAYíuRRRuawesome waterfalls (p196)ícolorful rockscapes (p250)eíomboPirlaacPhEmbarcaciónodaunmraorcaiorypaC foaa cipo rAntofagastaTdcgaeuParque NacionalJujuyaCsREmbalseyíRío PilcomayoeaodVlEtaipúcnBahSaltaAeBRAZILlraASUNCIÓNlSalta meClorindaeqsFoz do IguaçujsoúolCiudad del EsteExplore Argentina's mosti RoqueParqueeesRdPuerto IguazúSáenzcolonial city (p219)ParqueNacional íCafayateaoFormosaPeñarNacionalChacoTucumán eSlIguazúCHILEaliEncarnaciónldSantiagoTafí delardResistenciaodel EsteroValleyoaCuCorrientesguPosadasrUReserva Provincial EsterosCórdobaoíRCatamarcadel Iberá EsterosThump to this beautiful city'sSalinas dedel IberáChilecitoBirds and nature galore (p177)Reconquistanightlife beats (p287)AmbargastaReserva ProvincialPaso deaLa Rioja áLagunabEsteros del Iberálos Libresn Salinas deoMara dGrandesnChiquitaParque Provincial ra PòIschigualastoCerro Aconcagua oCíRSan AgustínCerroClimb South America'sCórdobaSalto Concordiade Valle Fértil Mercedarioehighest peak (p340) (6770m)dParque NacionalSanta FeSan JuanCerroEl PalmarParaná aBuenos Aires Aconcagua Parque ProvincialrPaysandúPACIFIC (6962m)Stroll BA's cosmopolitanrAconcaguaGualeguaychúCarolina eMendozaMercedesURUGUAYstreets (p52) iOCEANValparaíso RosarioSSANTIAGOSan LuisColonia delCerro3San Antonio3ºMercedesSTigreChuyTupungatoSacramentode ArecoSan(6650m)MONTEVIDEORafaelMendozaRíoLasdelTaste Argentina's finestBUENOSLeñasaMalargüeLaPPuntalboutique wines (p321)AIRESatPlatadel Estea Santa RosaMar del PlataLas LeñasParqueSun worship at this beachChosR La PampaColNacionaloki some of Argentina'sMalalrresort (p138)adoLihué Caleldriest powder (p345)Sierra deMar del Platala Ventana S A Sº3 Sº8 Sº3 2 2 3

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