Lonely Planet Argentina

643 Pages·2016·44.65 MB·English

by  Lonely Planet

P
D
F
Argentina
PDF ebook
Edition 10th Edition
Release Date August 2016
Pages 640
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4 easy-to-use How to Use This Book
sections
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:
1 4
Sights Sleeping
r 5
Beaches Eating
2 6
PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking
C 3
Courses Entertainment
Your planning tool kit
T 7
Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
z Festivals 8 Information
& Events & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
Your complete guide
ranges, by author preference.
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry
UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram
p Parking d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Argentina
Salta & the Iguazú Falls &
Andean Northwest
the Northeast
p218
p150
Córdoba &
the Central
Mendoza & Sierras Uruguay
the Central Andes p285 p517
p318 Buenos Airesp52
The Pampas &
the Atlantic Coast
Bariloche & p115
the Lake District
p356
Patagonia
p400
Tierra del Fuego
p492
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Sandra Bao,
Gregor Clark, Bridget Gleeson, Carolyn McCarthy,
Andy Symington, Lucas Vidgen
P LAN
ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Argentina . . . . 6 BUENOS AIRES . . . . . 52 Santa Rosa . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Argentina Map . . . . . . . . . .8 Tigre & the Delta . . . . . . . 113 Reserva Provincial
Parque Luro . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Argentina’s Top 20 . . . . . . 10
Parque Nacional
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20 THE PAMPAS & THE Lihué Calel . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
ATLANTIC COAST . . .115
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Atlantic Coast . . . . . . . . 135
If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Northern Pampas . . . . . . 116 San Clemente
La Plata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 del Tuyú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Month by Month . . . . . . . 26
Luján . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Pinamar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 San Antonio de Areco . . . 123 Villa Gesell . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Argentina Outdoors . . . . 34 Southern Pampas . . . . . 125 Mar del Plata . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Eat & Drink Tandil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Necochea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146
Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Sierra de la Ventana . . . . 128 Bahía Blanca . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Travel with Children . . . . 45
Parque Provincial
Regions at a Glance . . . . . 47 Ernesto Tornquist . . . . . . . 132
FELICITAS MOLINA/GETTY IMAGES © PATAGONIALANDSCAPES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
CSAANPT AIONNTOCANPIOT IDOEN A PR0E0C0O
P123
ELOJOTORPE/GETTY IM
AGES ©
CFAARPOT IJOONSCÉA IPGTNIOANC IPO0 P05060
Contents
IGUAZÚ FALLS & Parque Nacional Quilmes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
THE NORTHEAST . . . 150 El Palmar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Santiago del Estero . . . . . 270
Concordia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186
Along the Río Paraná . . . 151 Catamarca &
Paso de los Libres . . . . . . 187 La Rioja . . . . . . . . . . . . .272
Rosario . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
Misiones . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Catamarca . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
Santa Fe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Posadas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Belén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
Cayastá . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
San Ignacio . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Londres & El Shincal . . . . 276
Paraná . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Santa Ana & Loreto . . . . . 194 Western Catamarca . . . . . 277
Corrientes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
Santa María la Mayor . . . 195 La Rioja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
Mercedes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Iguazú Falls . . . . . . . . . . 196 Chilecito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
Reserva Provincial
Esteros del Iberá . . . . . . . 177 Puerto Iguazú . . . . . . . . . . 197 Parque Nacional
Talampaya . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
Along the Río Uruguay . . 181 Parque Nacional
Iguazú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203
Concepción
del Uruguay . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Gran Chaco . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 CÓRDOBA & THE
Colón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Parque Nacional do CENTRAL SIERRAS . . 285
Iguaçu (Brazil) . . . . . . . . . 211
Córdoba . . . . . . . . . . . . .287
Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil) . . . 215
The Central Sierras . . . 299
Cosquín . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299
SALTA & La Cumbre . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
THE ANDEAN
San Marcos Sierras . . . . . 302
NORTHWEST . . . . . . 218
Jesús María . . . . . . . . . . . . 304
Salta & Jujuy Alta Gracia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304
Provinces . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Villa General Belgrano . . . 308
Salta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
La Cumbrecita . . . . . . . . . 309
Valles Calchaquíes . . . . . . 233
Parque Nacional
Cafayate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Quebrada del
Quebrada de Cafayate . . . 245 Condorito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
San Antonio de los Mina Clavero . . . . . . . . . . . 310
Cobres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 San Luis & Around . . . . . 311
Salinas Grandes . . . . . . . . 246 Merlo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
Jujuy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 San Luis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
Las Yungas . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 Balde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
Quebrada de Parque Nacional
Humahuaca . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 Sierra de las Quijadas . . . 315
La Quiaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Valle de las Sierras
Yavi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Puntanas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
Tucumán & Around . . . . 261 Valle de Conlara . . . . . . . . 316
Tucumán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
Tafí del Valle . . . . . . . . . . . 266 MENDOZA & THE
Around Tafí del Valle . . . . 269 CENTRAL ANDES . . . 318
Santa María . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Mendoza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320
CLAA PBTOIOCAN,C BAUPETNIOONSC AAIPRTEISO N
PP06400 Amaicha del Valle . . . . . . . 269 Cacheuta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336
ON THE ROAD
PHILIP LEE HARVEY/LONELY PLANET © NIGEL HICKS/GETTY IMAGES ©
CSAANPT TIOELNMCOA,P TIONCAPTION` CSAANPT MIOANRCTAÍNP TDIEO NLOCAS P TION
PB0U0E0NOS AIRES P63 PA0N0D0ES P378
Potrerillos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 BARILOCHE & THE PATAGONIA . . . . . . . 400
Villavicencio . . . . . . . . . . . 337 LAKE DISTRICT . . . 356 Coastal Patagonia . . . .401
Uspallata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 Bariloche . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 Puerto Madryn . . . . . . . . . 401
Los Penitentes . . . . . . . . . 338 Parque Nacional Around Puerto Madryn . . . 409
Puente del Inca . . . . . . . . . 339 Nahuel Huapi . . . . . . . . . . 368 Coastal Río Negro . . . . . . 409
Parque Provincial El Bolsón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371 Reserva Faunística
Aconcagua . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 Around El Bolsón . . . . . . . 375 Península Valdés . . . . . . . 410
Las Cuevas & Villa la Angostura . . . . . . . 375 Trelew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414
Cristo Redentor . . . . . . . . 340
Villa Traful . . . . . . . . . . . . . 377 Around Trelew . . . . . . . . . . 418
Parque Provincial
Volcán Tupungato . . . . . . . 341 San Martín de Gaiman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418
los Andes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378
San Rafael . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 Around Gaiman . . . . . . . . 420
Cerro Chapelco . . . . . . . . . 384
Cañón del Atuel & Área Natural Protegida
Valle Grande . . . . . . . . . . . 343 Parque Nacional Punta Tombo . . . . . . . . . . . 420
Lanín . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385
Malargüe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343 Camarones . . . . . . . . . . . . 420
Junín de los Andes . . . . . . 388
Around Malargüe . . . . . . . 345 Cabo Dos Bahías . . . . . . . 424
Aluminé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389
Las Leñas . . . . . . . . . . . . . .345 Comodoro Rivadavia . . . . 424
Villa Pehuenia . . . . . . . . . . 390
Ruta Nacional 40 . . . . . . . 346 Puerto Deseado . . . . . . . . 427
Caviahue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392
San Juan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 Monumento Natural
Copahue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392 Bosques Petrificados . . . 428
Around San Juan . . . . . . . 350
Chos Malal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394 Puerto San Julián . . . . . . . 429
Valle de Calingasta . . . . . .350
North along the Parque Nacional
San José de Jáchal . . . . . 353 Ruta Nacional 40 . . . . . . . 394 Monte León . . . . . . . . . . . . 430
Rodeo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353 Zapala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .395 Río Gallegos . . . . . . . . . . . 431
San Agustín de Parque Nacional Inland Patagonia . . . . . 434
Valle Fértil . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 Laguna Blanca . . . . . . . . . 396
Esquel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434
Parque Provincial Neuquén . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396
Ischigualasto . . . . . . . . . . . 355 Trevelin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439
Parque Nacional
Los Alerces . . . . . . . . . . . . 440
Contents
UNDERSTAND
Argentina
TIERRA DEL FUEGO 492
Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576
RICHARD MCM UPTiaserhrquruaae ida Ne . la . Fc .ui .oe .ng .ao .l . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540983 HLiifset oinry A . r .g .e .n .t .i .n .a . . . . . . . . . . . . 558788
ANUS/GETTY IMAGES © TRPouíoleh rGutiorna Wn&di lLeliaa . gm . o . s .F .(a C .g .hn .ia l .en .) o . . . . . . . . . 555111321 TALTihhrtgeeee rSNnaotatuiutnurnaerd . a& .sl . WoC .f .oi n .rel .dm . . .a . . . . . . . .555999042
URUGUAY . . . . . . . . . . 517
Montevideo . . . . . . . . . . 520
Western Uruguay . . . . .537
CRAESPETRIOVNAC FAAPUTNIOÍSNTCICAAP TION
PP0EN00ÍNSULA VALDÉS P410 Colonia del
Sacramento . . . . . . . . . . . . 537
Gobernador Costa . . . . . . 443 Carmelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 543
Río Mayo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 443 Mercedes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 545 SURVIVAL
Perito Moreno . . . . . . . . . . 443 Paysandú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 547 GUIDE
Los Antiguos . . . . . . . . . . . 445 Salto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548
Cueva de las Manos . . . . . 446 Tacuarembó . . . . . . . . . . . 550
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .602
Bajo Caracoles . . . . . . . . . 447 Valle Edén . . . . . . . . . . . . . 551
Transportation . . . . . . . 614
Parque Nacional Eastern Uruguay . . . . . . 552
Perito Moreno . . . . . . . . . . 447 Piriápolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 552 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 620
Gobernador Gregores . . . 448 Punta del Este . . . . . . . . . . 553 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 629
El Chaltén . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449 La Paloma . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561
Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 638
Parque Nacional La Pedrera . . . . . . . . . . . . . 562
Los Glaciares (North) . . . 455
Cabo Polonio . . . . . . . . . . . 563
El Calafate . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458
Punta del Diablo . . . . . . . . 565
Around El Calafate . . . . . . 466
Parque Nacional
Parque Nacional Santa Teresa . . . . . . . . . . . 567
Los Glaciares (South) . . . 466
Chilean Patagonia . . . . 471
Punta Arenas . . . . . . . . . . 471
SPECIAL FEATURES
Monumento Natural
Los Pingüinos . . . . . . . . . . 477
Going to a The Legend of Che . . .306
Parque Nacional Fútbol Game . . . . . . . . . . 66
Pali Aike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 477 Mendoza’s Wine . . . . . .328
The Tango . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Puerto Natales . . . . . . . . . 477 La Ruta de los
Parque Nacional Staying on an Siete Lagos . . . . . . . . . .383
Estancia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
Bernardo O’Higgins . . . . . 482 Patagonian Wildlife . . .422
Parque Nacional The Iguazú Falls . . . . . . .212
Extreme Patagonia . . . . 469
Torres del Paine . . . . . . . . 483 Quebrada de
Falkland Islands/ Humahuaca . . . . . . . . .256 Uruguay’s Beaches . . . . 554
Islas Malvinas . . . . . . . . 490
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
6
Welcome to
Argentina
It’s apparent why Argentina has long
held travelers in awe: tango, beef,
gauchos, fútbol, Patagonia, the Andes.
The classics alone make a formidable
wanderlust cocktail.
City Life Food & Drink
Arriving in Buenos Aires is like jumping Satisfying that carnal craving for juicy
aboard a moving train. Outside the taxi steaks isn’t hard to do in the land that has
window, a blurred mosaic of a modern perfected grilling wonderfully flavorful
metropolis whizzes by, and then the street sides of beef. Parrillas (steak restaurants)
life appears – the cafes, the purple jaca- are everywhere and will offer up any cut
randa flowers draped over the sidewalks (in you can imagine. And if you’re a fan of pizza
spring), and porteños (residents of Buenos and pasta, these Italian staples are ubiqui-
Aires) in stylish clothing, walking purpose- tous as well. But there’s more – in Buenos
fully past handsome early-20th-century Aires you can experience a huge variety of
stone facades. And it’s not just Buenos Aires ethnic cuisine, from Southeast Asian and
that’s a stunner – Córdoba, Salta, Mendoza Middle Eastern to Scandinavian. Down
and Bariloche each have their unique per- it all with that famous Argentine wine,
sonalities and unforgettable attractions. and you’ll be struggling to maintain your
waistline.
Natural Wonders
Argentine Culture
From mighty Iguazú Falls in the sub tropical
north to the thunderous, crackling advance Tango is possibly Argentina’s greatest
of Glaciar Perito Moreno in the south, Argen- contribution to the outside world, a steamy
tina is a vast natural wonderland. The coun- dance that’s been described as ‘making love
try boasts rich wetlands, mountains painted in the vertical position.’ And what about
in rustic colors – including some of the fútbol (soccer)? Argentines are passionately
Andes’ highest peaks, deserts dotted with devoted to this sport and, if you’re a fan, ex-
cacti, massive ice fields and arid steppes, periencing a live match should definitely be
cool lichen-clad Valdivian forests, Andean on your itinerary. Add a distinctive Argen-
salt flats and a spectacular Lake District. It tine take on literature, cinema, music and
also offers an abundance of wildlife, includ- arts, and you have a rich, edgy culture –
ing penguins, flamingos, capy baras and part Latin American and part European –
more. All are stunning sights and adven- that you can’t help but fall in love with.
tures just waiting to be experienced.
7
LAURIE NOBLE / GETTY IM
AGES ©
Why I Love Argentina
By Sandra Bao, Writer
Argentina is my country – this is where I was born and raised, where I lived until my family
emigrated to the USA. It’s changed drastically since I was a little girl, but what I love most
about Argentina is its people. They’ve nurtured their creativity, adaptability and persever-
ance, through good and very bad times, all while maintaining their traditions, humor and
pride. I’m always happy to go back to this amazing place and its inhabitants – it’s been a real
privilege.
For more about our writers, see page 639
Above: Tango dancers, El Caminito (p65), Buenos Aires
m
rgentina & Uruguayek 00500250 miles WWWWººººBOLIVIA49496655ánLa QuiacaaIguazú Falls RaQuebrada de Humahuaca ípoAraPWitness the world's mostQDrive through spectacular,PocitosoHPARAGUAYíuRRRuawesome waterfalls (p196)ícolorful rockscapes (p250)eíomboPirlaacPhEmbarcaciónodaunmraorcaiorypaC foaa cipo rAntofagastaTdcgaeuParque NacionalJujuyaCsREmbalseyíRío PilcomayoeaodVlEtaipúcnBahSaltaAeBRAZILlraASUNCIÓNlSalta meClorindaeqsFoz do IguaçujsoúolCiudad del EsteExplore Argentina's mosti RoqueParqueeesRdPuerto IguazúSáenzcolonial city (p219)ParqueNacional íCafayateaoFormosaPeñarNacionalChacoTucumán eSlIguazúCHILEaliEncarnaciónldSantiagoTafí delardResistenciaodel EsteroValleyoaCuCorrientesguPosadasrUReserva Provincial EsterosCórdobaoíRCatamarcadel Iberá EsterosThump to this beautiful city'sSalinas dedel IberáChilecitoBirds and nature galore (p177)Reconquistanightlife beats (p287)AmbargastaReserva ProvincialPaso deaLa Rioja áLagunabEsteros del Iberálos Libresn Salinas deoMara dGrandesnChiquitaParque Provincial ra PòIschigualastoCerro Aconcagua oCíRSan AgustínCerroClimb South America'sCórdobaSalto Concordiade Valle Fértil Mercedarioehighest peak (p340) (6770m)dParque NacionalSanta FeSan JuanCerroEl PalmarParaná aBuenos Aires Aconcagua Parque ProvincialrPaysandúPACIFIC (6962m)Stroll BA's cosmopolitanrAconcaguaGualeguaychúCarolina eMendozaMercedesURUGUAYstreets (p52) iOCEANValparaíso RosarioSSANTIAGOSan LuisColonia delCerro3San Antonio3ºMercedesSTigreChuyTupungatoSacramentode ArecoSan(6650m)MONTEVIDEORafaelMendozaRíoLasdelTaste Argentina's finestBUENOSLeñasaMalargüeLaPPuntalboutique wines (p321)AIRESatPlatadel Estea Santa RosaMar del PlataLas LeñasParqueSun worship at this beachChosR La PampaColNacionaloki some of Argentina'sMalalrresort (p138)adoLihué Caleldriest powder (p345)Sierra deMar del Platala Ventana
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