EYEWITNESS TRAVEL LONDON EYEWITNESS TRAVEL LONDON 349 lores Main Contributor Michael Leapman Contents How to Use This Guide 6 Project Editor Jane Shaw Art Editor Sally Ann Hibbard Editor Tom Fraser Designers Pippa Hurst, Robyn Tomlinson Design Assistant Clare Sullivan Contributors Christopher Pick, Lindsay Hunt Photographers Max Alexander, Philip Enticknap, John Heseltine, Stephen Oliver Illustrators Brian Delf, Trevor Hill, Robbie Polley Portrait of Sir Walter Raleigh (1585) This book was produced with the assistance of Websters International Publishers. Introducing Printed and bound in China by L. Rex Printing Company Limited London First American Edition, 1993 14 15 16 17 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Great Days Published in the United States by in London 10 DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Putting London Reprinted with revisions 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1999, 2000 (twice), 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, on the Map 14 2012, 2013, 2014 Copyright © 1993, 2014 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London The History of London 18 A Penguin Random House Company All Rights Reserved. London Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no at a Glance 38 part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior London Through written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. Published in the UK by Dorling Kindersley Limited. the Year 58 A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISSN 1542-1554 A River View ISBN 978-1-46541-050-4 of London 62 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage, i.e. the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked annually. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements, and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Front cover main image: The Houses of Parliament and Lambeth Bridge Bedford Square doorway (1775) View of St. Paul’s Cathedral from One New Change London Area by Area Whitehall and Westminster 70 Piccadilly and St. James’s 88 Soho and Trafalgar Square 100 The Broadwalk at Hampton Court (c.1720) Covent Garden and the Strand 112 Shops and Markets 312 Entertainment in London 334 Children’s London 348 Beefeater at the Tower of London Regent’s Park and Marylebone 222 Hampstead 230 Bandstand in St. James’s Park Greenwich and Blackheath 238 Bloomsbury and Fitzrovia 122 Farther Afield 246 Holborn and Six Guided the Inns of Court 134 Walks 264 Houses of Parliament The City 144 Survival Guide Smithfield and Practical Spitalfields 162 Information 356 Southwark and Getting to Bankside 174 London 364 South Bank 186 Getting Around St. Paul’s Church: Covent Garden London 370 Chelsea 194 Travelers’ Needs London South Kensington and Street Finder 378 Knightsbridge 200 Where to Stay 280 General Index 416 Kensington and Restaurants and Holland Park 216 Pubs 288 Acknowledgments 438 (cid:2) 6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This Eyewitness Travel Guide helps you get main sights with maps, phot ographs, and the most from your stay in London with the detailed illustrations. In addition, six planned minimum of practical difficulty. The opening walking routes take you to parts of London section, Introducing London, locates the city you might otherwise miss. geographically, sets modern London in its Well-researched tips on where to stay, eat, historical context, and describes the regular shop, and be entertained are in Travelers’ highlights of the London year. London at a Needs. Children’s London lists highlights for Glance is an overview of the city’s specialties. young visitors, and Survival Guide tells you London Area by Area takes you around the how to do anything from mailing a letter to city’s areas of interest. It describes all the using the Underground. London Area by Area The city has been divided into 16 the sights to be covered. Sights Finding your way around the area sightseeing areas, each with its are numbered and clearly section is made simple by the own section in the guide. Each located on an Area Map. After numbering system. This refers to section opens with a portrait of this comes a large-scale Street- the order in which sights are the area, summing up its char- by-Street Map focusing on the described on the pages that acter and history and listing all most interesting part of the area. complete the section. Color-coding on each page makes LONDON AREA BY AREA (cid:2) 71 the area easy to find in the book. 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LtoyrsMiTLhsc.ueuE .atRidbssop e e erpbThamies nplayeL1sna g4 mS B–aObA1nUeN5tTtKhH takes in the most attractive and 2 Street-by-Street Map interesting streets in the area. This gives a bird’s-eye view of the heart of each sightseeing area. The numbering of the sights ties in with the area map and the fuller descriptions on the pages that follow. (cid:2) HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7 London at a Glance 46 (cid:2) INTRODUCING LONDON LONDON AT A GLANCE (cid:2) 47 MPTmoEcthoahanuaecrne ksptmh chest; e oumeeaonmp :nt fatRho drsspeael i laGgm otrienn hawsasd tirtg rdsi ohnkG heaanigasntrb s elsastll ,e weea ssCr rchLpioeeetooer ispdonew,c mCadneifngsoh iocc enuon rserinicb.er hsste,h.e d se , LIguarbva1cpotehinb8fnoae lip loust Lcspmiainhl onkorwapgcg a rtncncteehboit oeemdisrc ynered n ohtpdbada,dh t nererietu f d eied was ynocrt-st r yohhgtCeio lot.awine ullhnephTisr dmaysrrerhe pIcfs nu i baaw’se Liaphiknsbtgrmuo nesmiheSfguoainea ost elo rnodB es JdtwbPriouooc spmieotannsfs ni ie o nlu enm itgoewoannnhnal’ssssr’oa es.h’te s ist “pf aiTkimsh tbCe nonChp.l ahtae oansgr leSegaaaer t tv :i nsocstsi enhyresfL. shi etm i saitt niAoC.ehntcecy e nMh4tnd ae ao, aEd m c8lGeav d nrhdasbcic–d netaooogcnehyey9 rdmalrna nouyua gds.eep ’ rntfetuseasc cx rhid dslpnhcnhtecrpote.aeche ,u ca lcylteaicu’ranasf scniec rlahidsc hlcad leliihieh oennf adweduesen too , r mos e,hilc ufn sidvratahboet eeanvtlees ynhrtedsprvii ena n y ahia elgignlneeRyw drdle de g M eanrty’sl ePbaorknATtR eohelmlgi sSe bpon liucanlqy sJ ucoehh ucnro cNmha esohsf ’sf1r 8o2mSTa4BSorn .aalqhod fuoao Fa lmagirtneazsdrbr o uvriya aGCSnoatdrrvad etnehndnet HtohlebC ooInurnnrs ta onfd SNJFmaetoma aMwdteue asor r isSnGnyomT g-Sialblih dp eihtbter -iihesaStg Canffiithfnrloiie ficta wu1ly endi7gsilndl 1dhaad4 nsnto–oddw1 , k 7tseh taeiosnp sad oh lruiiivpcte- htllihy ki neeB t ancerhoroiSTHctuiohqshhtarreau cue Mwd nehf rrjeck ae otdwshthwrmame yae(isel1 s oiWitlong 7-hbolugn1oierukt,6.’o s esisi–l tilt tsd in2 rwnmbee7otyea.)aet sthlar.l i poBpra eoroaf qrNsu ilceah rgoelars Ecoalcohr- sciogdhetdse.eing area is SJ1tPhar7tomo 2Mtu2eeag ss–rht 6Gatti n iwn“btt-o baiwnsos ’o s-ogt rrchsaihghyeuii”-np frFoa.cilherl yl od fs aSnodu tKhn Kigehntssibnrgidtogne 00 kmiliolemsetres 0.51 anPdi cSct aJdamillyes’sWWeshtaimtneidhn astlle r RIVER THAMES cAatt hs1teheS1cSdet0Bo o r Padmanuenold tt imk(es h3l rat 6e’shr0 g oSei nef ftwt s WR)Pt o ohaarrmeiufgltdnlehe’’’sssr., SBoaunathnkswdi daerk SWdcaautor rsSmevtnteinee rwdgep shami nsien toanecdtr l Wuiehodriarns e lo bb aHfel rt1eosa6tnor 7.wrk2yi –tMh7 o.t Ihotsirs e ’s WTceoahxf ettemhes Iretutimodaltlrriii acanclono’ssl-t noBreecuyrderz eCa-aadlansn tt madihn -eraewidrc bChhrlaa ietitnlesh.t boerlriiicoc kr BTcwhhroouisrmrk cssuhp bm twyop aInttsau Oldoiareunacst o aoBrrraatyitrsoetdqs. uwei th arTchhhemiit gfeoaWhcmsltyteu o gsiramuetlnom sipd rnaiir o nebmLussbosostneie nvmydreu oheA mtnadob,sei meb antvnhebtadsyesl. TBfosoueufr rmti vlththi peviene lf e e Kti nhwnC eihE gc n1uhir2grctctsluah hTln aeadrmn .cdph l1ua3rrc,t hhthe cisse tinsot ounriee s STccfihahnotuieush r tmeclhadhrewgr wdaealia elruyksv n 1 anCt3loi alct tht1h hd9-ocee0iersd5.ni.gr tIantul ahrytae spd ra ia o ry 76 (cid:2) LONDON AREA BY AREA WHITEHALL AND WESTMINSTER (cid:2) 77 Th92BBwtrP1hCBWgfdt7mmlfcicotEhhWnioiiohhhog:rohrla4.seifoioeu1h5ieioge asru aihweedezrmh-ni5nBrn unr sit smnlwrtadt e Bgsmiiat ietrBtDj1lelutonhroahm btaadoofnmiesieesateen0r mt ngeuria mr ibB Ce- ta ec iab(eSlagsn,6iinufd ivgn 2 irntithetsonom1ga a ero n’-sie sh ihohs3eosen i1S nlmmt anam Bnesvhl s mt.e au aoW : f a Tpetg 1Befbt lsmeIt Hronvnifti oostnloQ mn.,5tnos(e 1li )e e8lslbowr 3antbdauh twdeyal.otl nuuilh o i,lmM 2ntlMe u dsbrafsl a vB4es ic ea,eJwino 0smtc t stneise efmfuiadakr.e rh &ni oo2 no-nw iHo ockgrp,yrfntbioi oc f erc5 u ma n2etanoeon ft i1ouwao Ui)e1 r1n :mhrnEil nps1 rammtee8snue2-3tpe K8 ghhle5ciamf oatrt 5i ets0, et la5opzC hp re .ei moc mhoe wie8(ec w1twcaT9tYr5ceme1 eressxeh.saf rke2bah..e eedleri4 o e a C radeW 1Tc t ocd faeMedss r t f soisrocaesoalhf anokyhefr tl owo t tosntco. cndufstheffmehrc )e i ncet hlttrnl trdr.dto o oelsar kski Ioah–Teab m Id t trsctnoc, tFnhht n e io ikhtkntnsdr Saaeteh ghi le lt.e i il yi r ness,e t ; AhONChao wfatrm5B1Aossbptd3ATT(oTatfP4SEDgtarsheorhnueeereasn rhheblffiofooueenepdoosoeestem a l e Tecrrsiborviettet atramcrite a n unssii0irapWthhhdlplDJWhh ia–mgost ostidd’uen oe nagnp2sptsnaapauMhreeeiabu e rehecd oi0Y deudtadi1dc77gSAennnbyaen lteasr er at w8osotvaJha48nAe 7 eoes2t eftrprlwddstesorgereoitl–mdnnyaio .)2l6.4co : dd narb n ew do rns8owwaas sc A–flP1s.2W–aot9ySad i emgr1grb ht nninq0eO2efrPg2nrirft P d gt.uee. eednew emhu raes e6 dtaaduoSrcA2ae.aaor lsmetmvhlAu da s no’yrWtr en2 r aDeTatlblxlss e m:omltt baleyks oh ro1hTltilon–tys h1eomel.yydab1 dscdit h e9S n.4eBwl0.watmcire eeYi.d ybm o e .imbi,W=apaeva1ui , yMfngs es da 1noaou t e1 ms mdea ioi p9oaaevhs1swjltawy aas nqirrdundtsJis3iuanl lf.na– ta odp n∑toaard il SEiuh dMmeetW 8Wny5tlr ditttna yaneyi eddnesc1a.o rsipgn hat .tar e slesva e b,eIh3st owbrrt e&ms dHanu et ot&psre enPeo l1 it sl eidtolBrsfaCrnsdi eih anauaasl , .tmdetf3S 1n d 5aecofeltgmft l r hterucso3 f67el a.ohactridskietl li ogensn it iesic i5h rlBsisafi ls siaufnse rey.se Isevt 5r heoImt ;todo dInss ee . ’- h nsmt rret e t .eey o snr .t CS8W1Tm1c6PTOtlpsCrsscKC7SLmHbrhSaCgCAtGottpDWWfppaaO91oaeohohhtuoeWa:1aotorrch9ineolrelo3ahobhpoueavhnmnaeesoareeqooluai oeeicmhkm20mitms lcdbl e1ue mriute uaiits0myi, gWgisswthnCSPrht n nnlpaaa od0uta.no mmte edronlber2sr ttwuesum immo amhMeem us ocd mece rmmmceHhoebe 0 au.StJu ha by e9ehot urdhasTLahoomrarwasa os–euDrsmaeeaeei s:e7r itaedyito3upmeaiii intn tlt-li n1bgrmncinMpn honnnltoe6-Wl ymn m llrealgdc0 ef,d landie:tret1llSidekS .a3oolkh5 .’Bnnfnf ,ssg n stab iral 1nl n^ oWn-Li Sni 5soioedhie0I4oshda ttyi.cosPmunrrt ro n3 Gn taCnlq.ittaee’asadpwi mDt Ata ysr ongr eai14 rath,t BlVEfttDOs’hab tB – ahstrsro imht a ae S fer.8cl fbcmsrevtibesr7d mAe eIti e5t3ce-taloeMeWraSatIaoYtnniypiw4toeoidohi. iIc ydn s.:ngleahwahrvrhnSn a3ln1pcaadn0epns e1mal aec o a1om’i ttap 1on 0usg ih bp.hmegnr8gnabdt,te ivJc nleucigh.npnat ndu1 npa9eeehu rr4ot e’kMp,iyuof tdny s se dra oHeecteht qihemnggM i2t2t 1 rW ren0e ia rnru slipfho nLo aWeyhtY ewa nat–Nens3osude6oahs osn h vss uWhsern eeltiai dw pcd5tdM t t. ,ownr,t l .dap Byu yr,o fti oit a sicesf tr eC pmld msnneT enw o erotomt4ori 1t td do ydis rnvonrder tcht mhmontis ltaos .if3fA he nsetsnep er, ’ufhveldtahpoida.ft eteadhsd e ra rtmet i – iiwnhmBnb1caoSaiDrocStnno scuo rnad r nfsa sF sts5n,o lutrtslech9ufsbsoitni nbo srheoofuearinq yis eaei. toinenvc ih uaw c1ee oetft d,e x rl lse dlun yihd.wo gicg. so3t r rdy o teri5f.eeat eh if ,eoes.aleiehf e irra n,d s.. er r,aora es ssf 9SSsAsnrPCNioNEWoDnmpocttaCTsehhhpexWreni alnfealooimwagroceatvo oeecrre ..Wdsa hu1ya esGcChlit orD 11ncenlinr.e1 evhelre a meeIe21hdeeNPMWnarqinntIdi9rz em i, rcvs enowou i rooide(cii op1Wtast tmcatnst teehd.Crta ePo ea pi8 nertahrgg 11rrmwge.ahpeaen.h Hen’e ry yst0 r 11eh raeIr Waht a M nta, tntaaos p3c y r yitIeaoCcnlnoNsD ohdf,mr iohple oBfc n 1roh.v sdtipif tuopafiocl5s4ahi Ofati6aaamosiiuh mi sa.sga6venrwatWnoo nr8p’bn1 ne ti nletdc–Ohp–mo stfi0rslhernie co i.hmdg7 ae fef Rtc r ylfC ft.iieiee hsl r)i. ifesnnsgWoehfcocTi.lrbo, m odd.ednri eroi gmheaSuhe n Hteel,r so dl lmhp sbioW tn oe r(Sfshaetettthi 1 ecoromh tgrgnohu– m saarehe 6t wpmueineooe nE .hitrenet2nbsip g ni ualhdenebm tse3 tri eshIagtrea goe ham–ees rity flts nrd f8tie i h. toe s n hc4d hesr ee)le e saFtgWhocpseMC0CM1T2wGnwutdGLimcdDnhheoaooonahlr0fanaoreuoeiaahcea bivGdaieiceamucnndsvttlinvdr r rpvyrtelsWlcueeiuChh.yn oitemu p rrantd bi Nneeb&cteh(b r Se1svarie- e ltdaeooeienoWsrieroNagtcdth 3eaei nust ltne rndeosfiel. 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I tats6eoeyt temkr c rs/niIe seI amwaefdepTmCTWuenshnqelhaleoreau rdedustnup rntRlhke h iteTtrioCapy,tieohci domnut cnhemhymCsa, egro fu teikecsaaswler m lrmdeioma,b’nnc seintiom im nhtatenriluh. lie cisigafeepTelut e llegDT fnaiMhtw uxrlnc nMuoe hiradhneRda tniehytedn cepi uyitosein mbe r n atesddR Ptgso sanattiowogc er taimirRiroocin no i auemptirormsCa st hetnto ,imo shhr e loehofocweaems e ffNfgMnu opif eo itdi.hwoSscyshrrire.rtnci e d ..ea a1 aao r ih trl0Ciisr euneoa it lb tgdel ’isnr et saiPlnitbNnnioisrerague ct atcetshlamhhcuk dt aet med’ boslit l ci co Sfenpat ahth tprgovrhlasee isIape sae inriitn ettntbmif e odFfofeeoroin a.nvrriortp m edmotsk ore rn.payaer e tlttfasaieaihiotocgcr eetnenhhh n t y e,c o eu 3 Detailed information on each sight All important sights in each area are described in depth in this section. They are listed in order, following the numbering on the Area Map. Practical information on opening 78 (cid:2) LONDON AREA BY AREA WHITEHALL AND WESTMINSTER (cid:2) 79 hours, telephone numbers, websites, 4 Westminster Abbey VISITORS’ CHECKLIST aakoTevdnhaym eti lth afiosaebs c tilbahoeda eniecs sc kogy hfflmi vaeaerabpgcno.he lf ssmo, uraa ensjoeadrd c sfh iagc chasiitnlg ii tshbi etes. 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KEY Saaarnrtctad hor istrth eeinecx dthmuiicbroaaistlt tesd ioetmhntape vi olmsier towoafsn ttinth i nsweit dobeerruke.islsd toiinnf gg , csmEtm“f1Ab12345aPhohd3ubmoooemtawi bhle TSTMTnnpdoteeat ohhhtuaeaiusuyr nrmEmeeeo’dln s csCsgcd f d hNSCelb teohositwh tsuo.nlhs1nuore.oe numat4e orrrit sceartt Ctshf.Ahhdh rrhtooey”eb , ’ cwsTnt T wrefbh errifsCigaeaeaenht,shh usynrnbtet su a’r Essrstuosee hrpeneifirsid lieepegp’mt nsce s lltmteosai, e shchshcltnhmiatohonora i ibneunmsknno er tsltetrt yaeea hih sa iadsiinreenln ensiei es nedttn vho g .ae l .tAiisth tic es 1To t0Whmh meeep sNh a(tr3ia gaE5vthn iefvedt e)sv tlwiy ei ninwd aEeern,rd togh fwlaero,n nbmdau.v te 100tbt10hin0ebege5e C0uga1o noubN2f nnbb e4Hf eytew5eoy s E n N sBctdorheehywrewnu oa erd rcfcd dehRhis c eui-g11yrcbnn32hses70 g60i nHse rn1Csehr2tobyhr6niu enY9fi eeeln dBsv aiiseonnvold geetryh m eo ofA vEb1edbd4we 0tayo0r dn ethwe 1d5is4s1o07l vM4e15od6 nW01fHacr3e0osoottsmumhets r- teptycohe lweent etCeurhdsray ptitleTs.er eh ei sCin oh1gAca81b ctfp09boaoVc150etgrroi8oec3y ori3nt:t or oME8nsa nHrl taioiQa1ziaolotsa3’u sitnbso u ter tenhieersntucn-he cte c hIneIte’stun rteu ri2ys0 wt0ilo0erst.h 4 London’s major sights These are given two or more full pages in the sightseeing Numbered circles point out major area in which they are found. Historic buildings are dissected features of the sight listed in a key. to reveal their interiors; museums and galleries have color- coded floor plans to help you find important exhibits.