paging_5113 8/1/08 3:09 PM Page i Lola’s Luck paging_5113 8/1/08 3:09 PM Page ii paging_5113 8/1/08 3:09 PM Page iii Lola’s Luck M L A Y IFE MONG THE C G ALIFORNIA YPSIES CAROL MILLER BOSTON paging_5113 8/1/08 3:09 PM Page iv First published by GemmaMedia in 2009. GemmaMedia 230 Commerical Street Boston, MA 02109 USA 617 938 9833 www.gemmamedia.com © 2009 by Carol Miller All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews. Printed in the United States of America 13 12 11 10 09 1 2 3 4 5 ISBN: 978-1-934848-00-5 Library of Congress Control Number: 2008932715 paging_5113 8/1/08 3:09 PM Page v ACKNOWLEDGMENTS T his book has been an enduring part of my life since 1975, the year Lola died, when I began scribbling notes about her because I missed her and in an effort to better understand the miracle of our unlikely relationship. This final edition owes much to the editors, Louis Chunovic and my neighbor Barbara Lehman, the former for his cutting and com- pacting, the latter for her work on my carefree use of colons and both for their interest and support. Many good friends have read and offered their opinions of my book in its various guises, among them the anthropologists Rena Gropper and Maggi Nicholson, the photographer/linguist Diane Tong, Mill Valley’s Frank Rosenberg, my dear Bev Manber Ander- son, the expatriate Don Bovee, filmmaker Diana Gerba, my aero- bics classmate Jan Cox and the talented Victoria Scott who has helped the writing process along in so many ways, as well as others whose names, over the decades, I seem to have forgotten, an omis- sion for which I ask to be forgiven. My sisters, Nancy Latourelle and Joan Davis, and my children, Colin and Leslie, knew Lola; they have shared my fieldwork and my passions. My heartfelt gratitude to my teacher, Anne Lamott, for her enthusiastic response to my work, to former agent Robin Straus, to Gayle Delaney for her help with my dreams and to my granddaughter Elicia Ho, a New Yorker of charm and infinite grace who, in a vain attempt to promote my memoir into a movie, once engaged the media consultant and marketeer, Soffie Kage. v paging_5113 8/1/08 3:09 PM Page vi LOLA’S LUCK A special thanks is due Zella who, in my hippie phase, shared the names and addresses of her California artist friends, friends with whom, driving down the coast, looking for Psychic signs and Machvanki, I sometimes enjoyed a hot meal and an overnight. I never got a grant to study Gypsies and will be eternally beholden to those Machvaia who, whenever I ran out of funds, took me in. Ritual/belief was my focus and, in the effort to attend as many gatherings and parties as possible, I usually worked part- time. Katy and I were often live-together companions, and I con- sider myself especially lucky to have been sponsored by her hus- band King and, later, husband Chally. My blessings on all those Machvaia who tolerated my foreign presence at the sacred events normally forbidden Outsiders and who, in the generous spirit of good times, shared the bounty of their company, food, drink, crowded motel rooms, inspired music and dancing, the latest gos- sip and the immediate nature of their feelings. I speed good luck and good health to you all. Mostly, I am indebted to my beloved Lola, for her love, exam- ple and guidance. In the following, the names of the Machvaia who are living have been changed—with the exception of those who have requested their real names be used. The Roma names familiar to Americans and speakers of En- glish are spelled accordingly: Katy, Miller, Boyd, Lyla, for example. The Roma names that reflect the people’s mixed East- European origin, like Duda (Doo-dah), Zhurka (Zhoor-kah), Duiyo (Doo-ee-yo), Stevo (Stay-vo) and the words from Sanscrit, like baX, luck, are spelled according to the following sound tips: R, as Roma, Romani, a post-velar sounded/aspirated roll at the back of the throat. X= as in Scottish pronunciation of loch. ris like the French light flap. eor é= say i= see, a= saw, o= sew, g= go, u= goo vi paging_5113 8/1/08 3:09 PM Page 1 K ATY, A GYPSY OF SOME SIGNIFICANCE, lived an easy fifteen-minute drive from the University District, in the biggest Gypsy store- front in the city, with the whitest, fullest ruffled curtains. But the inside of the building was even more imposing. I was a divorced graduate student, an aspiring anthropologist from the University (there because one of the professors in my department said he knew someone who knew a local Gypsy family), and I remember looking around that first visit and feeling propelled at warp speed away from all that I knew. Home to me was a well-lit flat with the no-bother statement of Scandinavian furniture. My only luxury stood on a carved rose- wood folding stand, an oversized and open Oxford English Dictionary with tissue paper pages. In contrast, Katy’s storefront was a dark, two-storied Oriental box designed to gobble up my courage. Only the walls at the front and back had windows, doors and access to outside air and natu- ral light. Chandeliers, pinpoints far above our heads, projected pale pools of light toward the vastness, dangerously unstable and propelled to sway by the drafts that issued through cracks in the molding. Wide stripes of red and green Art Deco lilies writhed and stretched across the carpeting that Katy told me crisply, chin in the air, had been cleverly salvaged from a theater lobby “for nothing.” Where to rest my eyes? Every wall was curtained, draped and papered, pattern to paisley pattern. I supposed the bravura effect might be an egregious attempt to re-introduce the coziness of 1 paging_5113 8/1/08 3:09 PM Page 2 LOLA’S LUCK childhood’s tent and the fertility of nature’s luxuriant form and color. Within the twilight space, I counted bedrolls, one bed, two sofas, several overstuffed chairs, a dining set, televisions, a variety of sound systems, two phones but no phone book. The more pre- cious items, gleaming Saint statues and aging maroon-red Easter eggs, were stored in a carved Italian cabinet. Pointing to an egg that was accidentally chipped, Katy showed me that the yolk had miraculously changed to glass. “How does that happen?” I wondered, expecting sulfur fumes, and earnestly hop- ing she wouldn’t ask me to hold it. “That’s because it’s from Easter,” she explained, explaining nothing, as she carefully put the egg back on the shelf. I can still see the imperious height of the black ceilings, the awesome open- ness of the room—room enough to perform ten handsprings, front to back. I tried to enlist her support by explaining I needed a larger sample to study, that one family wouldn’t do and that a community was what I had in mind. Could she help me meet more Gypsies? Katy said there were three kinds in the city, two of them Kalderasha, but she came from the best, the highest class, being a Machvanka. Apparently, from Katy’s view, I had reached my objec- tive; a Machvanka should be quite enough. Whatever I might have said wouldn’t have mattered. She knew outsiders were suspect and couldn’t be trusted. I had already tried several local Gypsy storefronts, pretending to be a prospective client. When I timidly asked, “Do you tell for- tunes?” the women claimed that they didn’t give readings. The ones that obviously did (the sign read “Palm Readings”) said they were “too busy.” While suggesting I come another day, the expres- sions on their faces made it clear that when I did, they intended not to be in. I was puzzled as to why Katy, unlike the others, didn’t order me out or tell me to come back “another day.” In fact, she never locked her door. In those days, an open door proved that the Gypsies inside had nothing to hide or to be ashamed of—at least that’s what it meant to other Gypsies. There were, however, other possi- 2 paging_5113 8/1/08 3:09 PM Page 3 MY LIFE AMONG THE CALIFORNIA GYPSIES bilities. She was a woman who made her living “reading” people and their motives, and perhaps I intrigued her. She certainly intrigued me, and I have always been a sucker for a mystery. I found the slender Katy aloof and hard to figure. I had read that Gypsy royalty is a fiction invented for outsiders. I learned first- hand that the fiction conveys a deeper truth: the serious regard with which all Roma would like to be treated. In truth, I was a bit overwhelmed by the shock of her straw- berry-orange-colored hair and the way she claimed she achieved that color with successive stubborn treatments of household bleach. Katy, the redheaded Gypsy Red Queen—all stride, disdain and angles—chain-smoked and made incessant phone calls. I was a bit dismayed by the arrogance of her style, nimbly twisting to hold an ear to the phone while she perched on her zebra-print barstool and painted strong nails with another leisurely coat. I was seriously impressed by the way she made her living, telling for- tunes. I wondered how she managed to support that big family, five children and a variable number of adults, with whatever income she got from the dismally hard-up clients who arrived at her store- front. But I was drawn to Katy in ways that I didn’t, at the time, con- sciously comprehend. Although she was an unknowing informant, I considered Katy an expert at survival, and the most gallantly resourceful woman I had ever met. The preceding years of my own life had seemed unending, an exercise in futility and postponement. Before my divorce and for too many years, I had hid in my husband’s shadow, the diminish- ing tail to the kite of his success. His corporate promotions, invari- ably received like the word of Adam Smith, the capitalist god, allowed no discussion or negotiation. Every year or two, sturdy uni- formed men from a national trucking company would appear, pack all our belongings into numbered cardboard boxes and smooth-move us to another city. Each new rung up the corporate ladder cost my children and me our small and our more significant triumphs, our ongoing aspirations, familiar neighborhoods and schools and the support of our cherished friends. We weren’t always good sports about these transitions. Whatever we ruefully 3
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