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Living with Tourism: Negotiating Identities in a Turkish Village (Routledge Contemporary Geographies of Leisure, Tourism, and Mobility, 1) PDF

222 Pages·2003·1.86 MB·English
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Living with Tourism Tourism is now recognised as a major player in the interaction between the local and global, especially within economic and social processes. Accordingly, signifi- cant attention is being paid to the practices and experiences of local communities as they are visited by and serve tourists. Living with Tourism, however, redefines the ‘community’ that is of interest when considering the effects that tourism has on culture, by providing an ethnographic account of both the toured and touring community. Living With Tourism is an in-depth analysis of the interactions between tourists, the local community and place in the ‘moonlike’ cave-land of Göreme, a World Heritage Site in Central Turkey. It demonstrates the implications that commu- nity ownership and participation in tourism have for the politics of representation and identity, and also for the nature of the tourist experience. It is shown how, together with host communities, tourists themselves are continu- ously negotiating their own identities and experiences in interaction with the people and places they meet. Living with Tourism develops a dynamic notion of culture and tourism sustain- ability, and therefore provides new insights not only for scholars of tourism, but also for those in the areas of anthropology, geography and social studies who wish to gain a deeper understanding of this global phenomenon in the contem- porary world. Hazel Tucker has a Ph.D. in Social Anthropology from the University of Durham and is a Lecturer in the Department of Tourism at the University of Otago, New Zealand. Dr Tucker teaches courses on tourist behaviour, social and cultural change and tourism, heritage interpretation and qualitative research methods. As well as publishing in the field of tourism, she has published articles in area of social and oral history. Contemporary Geographies of Leisure, Tourism and Mobility Series editor: Professor Michael Hall Associate Professor at the Centre of Tourism, University of Otago, New Zealand The aim of this series is to explore and communicate the intersections and rela- tionships between leisure, tourism and human mobility within the social sciences. It will incorporate both traditional and new perspectives on leisure and tourism from contemporary geography (e.g. notions of identity, representation and culture), while also providing for perspectives from cognate areas such as anthropology, cultural studies, gastronomy and food studies, marketing, policy studies and political economy, regional and urban planning, and sociology, within the development of an integrated field of leisure and tourism studies. Also, increasingly, tourism and leisure are regarded as steps in a continuum of human mobility. Inclusion of mobility in the series offers the prospect to examine the relationship between tourism and migration, the sojourner, educa- tional travel, and second home and retirement travel phenomena. The series comprises two strands: Contemporary Geographies of Leisure, Tourism and Mobility aims to address the needs of students and academics, and the titles will be published in hardback and paperback. Titles include: The Moralisation of Tourism Jim Butcher The Ethics of Tourism Development Mick Smith & Rosaleen Duffy Tourism in the Caribbean Trends, Development and Prospects Edited by David Timothy Duval Qualitative Research in Tourism Edited by Jenny Phillimore and Lisa Goodson Routledge Contemporary Geographies of Leisure, Tourism and Mobility is a forum for innovative new research intended for research students and academics, and the titles will be available in hardback only. Titles include: Living with Tourism Negotiating Identities in a Turkish Village Hazel Tucker Living with Tourism Negotiating identities in a Turkish village Hazel Tucker First published 2003 by Routledge 11 New Fetter Lane, London EC4P 4EE Simultaneously published in the USA and Canada by Routledge 29 West 35th Street, New York, NY 10001 Routledge is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group This edition published in the Taylor & Francis e-Library, 2005. “To purchase your own copy of this or any of Taylor & Francis or Routledge’s collection of thousands of eBooks please go to www.eBookstore.tandf.co.uk.” © 2003 Hazel Tucker All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data A catalog record for this book has been requested ISBN 0-203-98767-5 Master e-book ISBN ISBN 0–415–29856–3 (Print Edition) Contents Acknowledgements vii 1 Introduction 1 Göreme: an introduction 5 The wider context of tourism development in Göreme 10 Studying Göreme: the fieldworker, the field and the work 15 Structure of the book 20 2 Imaging Cappadocia: the construction of a tourist place 23 Scripting Cappadocia and Göreme 24 The ‘lunar landscape’ 27 Christian Göreme 29 Göreme as a cultural landscape 34 Touring Cappadocia 36 3 The tourists: in search of serendipity 43 Tourists in Göreme 44 Some tourist portraits 45 Tourists, non-tourists and the ill-fated plot 51 Avoidance of the pre-planned package tour 56 Budgeting for possibility 59 Temporal opening to possibility 61 Interacting with the authentically social 62 The search for serendipity, not touristic surrender 66 4 Continuity and change: gender and production in Göreme 69 Göreme lives 70 Göremeli/people of Göreme 75 Gender segregation: the duality in Göreme life 76 Memories of a life past: social change in Göreme 85 vi Contents 5 A community in competition: the business of tourism in Göreme 91 Getting into tourism 92 Tourism business and employment today 99 Volcanic eruptions: competition, fights and gossip 103 Consequences and experiences of tourism business 114 6 Close encounters: interactions between hosts and guests 118 Packaged interaction 119 The authentically social in Göreme village 120 The power in hospitality 122 Hospitality in the tourism realm 125 Restricting hospitality 128 Close encounters of a more ‘real’ kind 134 7 Romantic developments: new and changing gender relations through tourism 137 Fun and romance 138 Traditional gender relations 141 Long-term relationships 143 Caught in the middle 149 Developing business through romance 152 Developing romance: changing village life 156 8 The continuation of Göreme as a ‘tourist site’: politics of place and identity 159 The discourse of preservation 160 Villagers’ experiences of preservation discourse 163 The inevitability of change 166 Emergent culture: the Flintstones of the future 169 Experiencing the hypo-reality of Göreme 172 The continuation of Göreme as a tourist site? 176 9 Conclusion 182 Writing tourists into destinations 182 Living with tourism in Göreme: a postscript 187 Bibliography 190 Index 208 List of Illustrations Figures Figure 1.1 Göreme village tourist map. 7 Figure 1.2 Map of Turkey highlighting the main route travelled by backpacker tourists. 10 Figure 2.1 Tourist map of Cappadocia showing the main tourist sites. 37 Plates Plate 1.1 Göreme village. 6 Plate 1.2 The centre of Göreme village. 8 Plate 2.1 Miniature ‘fairy chimneys’ are sold at souvenir stands nearby full-size ones. 29 Plate 2.2 Byzantine frescoes in a 1,000-year-old church. 30 Plate 2.3 The coach park by the Göreme Open-Air Museum. 31 Plate 2.4 A hotel built to resemble the ‘fairy chimneys’ of Cappadocia. 40 Plate 2.5 The kind of vernacular accommodation that backpackers prefer to stay in. 41 Plate 3.1 Exploring in the valleys around Cappadocia. 58 Plate 3.2 Boiling pekmez (grape syrup). 64 viii List of Illustrations Plate 4.1 Example of Esin’s photographs. 74 Plate 4.2 Making bread to last through the winter is a full day’s work, shared among a group of women. 84 Plate 5.1 A new tour agency is built. 98 Plate 6.1 ‘Turkish hospitality’: a tea-house owner entertains tourists by playing his saz. 126 Plate 8.1 The National Park plan in action. 161 Plate 8.2 Erosion of the fairy chimneys. 169 Plate 8.3 Flintstones imagery used in Göreme’s tourism. 171 Acknowledgements I owe special thanks to the people of Göreme for their friendship, openness and generosity during and since the conducting of my fieldwork. I am espe- cially indebted to the Köse family, particularly Abbas and Senem, whose support and kind hospitality were invaluable to my fieldwork. Many thanks are also due to Arif Yasa for his help with transcription of interview tapes, and to Mehmet Bozlak, Kaili Kidner and Lars Eric More for their practical support. I am indebted to all of the Göreme villagers I interviewed, including Mustafa Mızrak, as well as to the employees of the Ministries of Culture and Tourism and of the Göreme Tourism Co-operative who helped me in my research. I would particularly like to thank Dawn Köse, Andus Emge, the Tekkaya family, Ali Karataș, Hüseyin Uludag, Osman Atak, Mehmet Dașdeler, Hacer and Hikmet, Havva, Zubeyde, Zahide and Top Deck, for sharing infor- mation and friendship with me during my stay. Of course, the many tourists who shared their time and conversation with me also contributed greatly to this work. In Durham, I extend my warmest thanks to Dr Tamara Kohn for her contin- uous encouragement, support and enthusiasm as I produced this work in its doctorate form. A number of people also contributed their time to discuss research and ideas, including Michael Carrithers, Mary Thompson, Arnar Arnason, Rachel Baker, Will Buckingham, Chris Fuller and Stephan Jamieson. This book is largely the result of research funded by a scholarship from the Anthropology Department at the University of Durham. I am very grateful for this and other financial assistance provided by the British Institute for Archaeology in Ankara travel fund, the Durham University Council Fund for Students Travelling Abroad, and a Royal Anthropology Institute ‘Sutasoma Award’. I would also like to express my appreciation to Ann Michael and Andrew Mould at Routledge for their support for this work. My thanks go to Fez Travel for the use of the map of Turkey in Chapter 1, and to Matt Hall for his assistance in preparing the maps. All of the photographs are my own. In the latter stages of working on this book, I have greatly appreciated the company and support of my colleagues and friends in New Zealand. In partic- ular, I would like to thank Michael Hall for his wine and wisdom, Donna Keen

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Most books are stored in the elastic cloud where traffic is expensive. For this reason, we have a limit on daily download.