H U N T E R H U N T E R Island Paradise E ddddddd TTRRAAVVEELL GGUUIIDDEESS vvvvvvv eeeeeee nnnnnnn veryislandinthischainhasitsownhistory,cultureandecology. tttttuuuuututu Theauthor,wholivesinAntigua,describeseachoneindetail. rrrrreeeeerere GGGGGGG AAnngguuiillllaa Tryouttheglamorousnewsuper-luxuryresortsonAnguillaorthe casinos, uuuuuuu nightspotsandrestaurantsofStMartin.Thelovelysmallplantationinnson iiiiidddddidid AAnnttiigguuaa eeeeeee St Kitts will transport you back to British colonial times. Explore the rain- SStt BBaarrttss forestsonSabaandStatiaordiveinsomeofthedeepestcanyonsoftheCarib- L SStt MMaarrttiinn bean. See St Barts, the haven of celebrities and the ultra-rich, a shopper’s dream come true. Get close to the active volcano on Montserrat, or catch a e SStt KKiittttss,, NNeevviiss glimpseofthewildmonkeysonNevis. SSaabbaa,,SSttaattiiaa,,MMoonnttsseerrrraatt Thisguideistheultimateresourceifyou’reheadingforsomefuninthesun.It e covers all the sites and attractions, the beaches, the watersports, the planta- tionsandhistoricspots,butitalsoshowshowtoescapethetouristtraps,lead- w ingyouintotheheartofeachislandtodiscoverhiddenwaterfalls,mountain streamsandsecrettrails. Foreachislandthereisextensiveinformationonwheretostayandeat,from a five-star resorts to family-run B&Bs, from haute cuisine to roadside stands sellingthebestBBQchickenontheisland. r The author recommends local tour operators and adventure outfitters, with contactnamesandnumbers,butalsotellshowtotouronyourown. d Allthebestshops,boutiquesandgalleriesaredescribed,aswellastherecom- mendedspas,golfcourses,hikingandbikingoptions,thefestivalsandthecel- ebrations. I The only guide with color photos & maps throughout that also s gives you all the detailed practical information you need. Life is a journey, an adventure – let Hunter be your guide! l a dddddddvvvvvvveeeeeeennnnnnntttttttuuuuuuurrrrrrreeeeeee GGGGGGGuuuuuuuiiiiiiidddddddeeeeeee Art & Architecture Food & Drink Detailed Maps n LLLLLeeeeeeeeeewwwwwaaaaarrrrrddddd Festivals&Nightlife Walking & Biking Where to Stay d Sightseeing Where to Eat Shopping s IIIIIssssslllllaaaaannnnndddddsssss HunterPublishing,Inc. ISBN978-1-58843-642-9 80NorthfieldAve EdisonNJ08837 US$23.99 (cid:1)(cid:2)(cid:3)(cid:4)(cid:5)(cid:3)(cid:3)(cid:6)(cid:7)(cid:8)(cid:6)(cid:9)(cid:1) (cid:5)(cid:9)(cid:7)(cid:1)(cid:1) 4th Edition K.C. Nash www.hunterpublishing.com HHUUNNTTEERR dventure Guide LLLLLeeeeeeeeeewwwwwaaaaarrrrrddddd IIIIIssssslllllaaaaannnnndddddsssss Anguilla, Antigua St Barts, St Kitts & St Martin 3rd Edition K.C. Nash HHUUNNTTEERR HUNTERPUBLISHING,INC. 80NorthfieldAve,Edison,NJ08837 (cid:1)732-225-1900/800-255-0343/fax732-417-1744 www.hunterpublishing.com [email protected] INCANADA: UlyssesTravelPublications 4176Saint-Denis,Montréal,Québec,CanadaH2W2M5 (cid:1)514-843-9882ext.2232/fax514-843-9448 INTHEUNITEDKINGDOM: WindsorBooksInternational 5,CastleEndPark,CastleEndRd,Ruscombe Berkshire,RG109XQEngland,(cid:1)01189-346-367/fax01189-346-368 ISBN978-1-58843-642-9 ©2008HunterPublishing,Inc. Coverphoto:Pinney’sBeach,Nevis(©BillBrooks/Alamy) Maps©2008HunterPublishing,Inc. Forcompleteinformationaboutthehundredsofother travelguidesofferedbyHunterPublishing,visitusat www.hunterpublishing.com. Mostofourguidesarealsoavailableindigitalformas e-booksthroughNetLibrary.com,ebrary.com, Ebooks.com,Overdrive.comandotherpartners. Formoreinformation,e-mailcomments@ hunterpublishing.com. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be repro- duced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmittedinanyform,or byanymeans,electronic,mechanical,photocopying,recording,or otherwise,withoutthewrittenpermissionofthepublisher. Thisguidefocusesonrecreationalactivities.Asallsuchactivities containelementsofrisk,thepublisher,author,affiliatedindivid- uals and companies disclaim any responsibility for any injury, harm,orillnessthatmayoccurtoanyonethrough,orbyuseof, theinformationinthisbook.Everyeffortwasmadetoinsurethe accuracyofinformationinthisbook,butthepublisherandauthor donotassume,andherebydisclaim,anyliabilityforlossordam- agecausedbyerrors,omissions,misleadinginformationorpoten- tial travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissionsresultfromnegligence,accidentoranyothercause. 4 3 2 1 Contents Introduction 1 WhatTypeAreYou? 1 PickYourIsland 3 Anguilla 3 Antigua&Barbuda 3 Montserrat 3 St.Kitts 4 Nevis 4 SabaandSt.Eustatius 4 St.Barthelemy 4 St.Martin/SintMaarten 5 Websites 5 FollowingtheSymbols 8 AWordofCaution 9 EssentialPackingList 10 Anguilla 15 TheAllureoftheIsland 15 ABriefHistory 18 TheFacts 20 TravelInformation 23 Exploring 32 OnFoot 32 OnHorseback 33 OnWheels 33 OnWater 33 Eco-Travel 39 Playing&WatchingSports 40 FamilyFun 41 SeeingtheSights 42 WheretoStay 44 LuxeResorts 44 WheretoEat 61 Shopping 68 FineArt 69 Gifts,Clothing&More 70 Nighlife 71 TheBeachesofAnguilla 72 Saint Martin/Sint Maarten 75 TheAllureoftheIsland 75 ABriefHistory 78 TheFacts 82 TravelInformation 86 Exploring 101 OnFoot 101 OnWheels 101 Scenic&HistoricTours 102 OnWater 102 OnHorseback 112 iv (cid:1) Contents Eco-Travel 112 Playing&WatchingSports 113 FamilyFun 114 SeeingtheSights 118 WheretoStay 122 WheretoEat 154 Shopping 165 Nighlife 169 TheBeachesofSt.Martin/SintMaarten 174 OntheFrenchSide 175 OntheDutchSide 178 OntheOffshoreIslands 181 St. Barthelemy 183 TheAllureoftheIsland 183 ABriefHistory 185 TheFacts 186 TravelInformation 187 Exploring 198 OnFoot 198 OnWheels 199 OnWater 200 OnHorseback 206 Playing&WatchingSports 206 Tennis 207 SeeingtheSights 207 WheretoStay 209 WheretoEat 227 Shopping 235 Nighlife 236 TheBeachesofSt.Barts 237 Saba 243 TheAllureoftheIsland 243 ABriefHistory 245 TheFacts 246 TravelInformation 249 Exploring 255 OnFoot 255 OnWater 256 Playing&WatchingSports 259 SamplingtheCulture 260 RelivingHistory 260 WheretoStay 261 WheretoEat 267 Shopping 270 Nighlife 271 St. Eustatius 273 TheAllureoftheIsland 273 ABriefHistory 275 TheFacts 277 TravelInformation 280 Exploring 285 Contents (cid:1) v OnFoot 285 OnWater 286 Playing&WatchingSports 288 SeeingtheSights 288 WheretoStay 290 WheretoEat 293 Shopping 294 Nighlife 294 TheBeachesofStatia 295 St. Kitts & Nevis 297 TheAllureoftheIslands 297 ABriefHistory 300 TheFacts 303 St.Kitts 306 TravelInformation 306 Exploring 314 Playing&WatchingSports 320 SeeingtheSights 321 WheretoStay 324 DiningAroundSt.Kitts 332 Shopping 337 Nighlife 338 TheBeachesofSt.Kitts 339 Nevis 342 TravelInformation 342 Exploring 347 Playing&WatchingSports 352 SeeingtheSights 353 WheretoStay 357 EatingOut 365 Shopping 370 Nighlife 371 TheBeachesofNevis 371 Antigua & Barbuda 375 TheAllureoftheIslands 375 ABriefHistory 378 TheFacts 380 TravelInformation 384 Exploring 394 OnFoot 394 Zip-Lining 394 OnWheels 395 OnWater 397 OnHorseback 403 ByAir 403 Playing&WatchingSports 403 SeeingtheSights 404 WheretoStay 407 EatingOut 432 Shopping 442 Nighlife 445 Barbuda 447 vi (cid:1) Contents History 447 TravelInformation 449 Exploring 450 WheretoStay 452 DiningOut 454 TheBeachesofAntigua&Barbuda 455 OnAntigua 455 OnBarbuda 458 Montserrat 461 TheAllureoftheIsland 461 ABriefHistory 463 TheFacts 465 Population 465 Language 466 MainCity 466 Government&Economy 466 People&Culture 466 Geography 467 Climate 468 Flora&Fauna 468 TravelInformation 469 Exploring 477 OnFoot 477 Eco-Adventures 478 OnWheels 480 OnWater 480 SeeingtheSights 482 WheretoStay 484 WheretoEat 489 Shopping 490 Nighlife 490 Index 491 Maps Caribbean facingpage1 LesserAntilles 13 Anguilla 14 AnguillaDiveSites 34 AnguillaBeaches 72 St.Martin 80 Philipsburg 117 Marigot 119 St.Barts 182 Saba 242 Statia 272 St.Kitts&Nevis 296 Antigua 374 Barbuda 382 Montserrat 460 About the Author K.C.Nashisaprofessionaltravelwriterwithyearsofexperienceinwrit- ingfeaturestoriesformagazinesandnewspapers. ShelivesinAntigua, one of the Leewards, and frequently travels throughout the region to explorenewdevelopmentsandsharethemwithherreaders. BeforemovingtoAntiguain2005,K.C.livedintheEastBayareaofSan Francisco, and served as a special sections editor and feature writer for theContraCostaTimesnewspaperchain.Shealsocontributedarticlesto Diablo Magazine, an award-winning regional publication based in the EastBay. Mostrecently,shehasbeenacontributortotheCaribbeanEdgewebsite, and now hosts her own site, www.leewardislands.net, where she will be updatingtheinformationcontainedinthisbookonacontinuousbasis. Acknowledgments IwouldliketothankmyhusbandWillieNash,Jr.forhispatientsupport overthelastyearasIresearchedeachisland.Itrulyenjoyedhiscompany aswevisitedhotels,restaurantsandvariousattractionsoneachisland. He always had insightful questions and cogent observations to add—especially when I completely missed the obvious or got too cranky andoutofsortstothinkofgoodquestions. I would also like to thank the professional staff members of the tourism boards and authorities on each island who were so helpful in arranging tours and visits, and generally supporting the publication of this book. TheyincludeDirectorAmeliaVanterpool-KubischandMerlynRogersof theAnguillaTouristBoard;DirectorGeneralLorraineHeadleyandU.S. DirectorofTourismDeredeSamuel-WhitlockoftheAntiguaandBarbuda Ministry of Tourism; Director Ernestine Cassell, Ishwar Persad and JadineGlitzenhirnoftheMontserratTouristBoard;DirectorGlennHolm of the Saba Tourism Office; Director Christine Walwyn and her capable staffmembersDiannilleTaylorandWendellPembertonofSt.Kitts;Chief ExecutiveOfficerHelenKiddandAngeliqueFranceoftheNevisTourism Authority; and Director of Tourism Elise Magras of St. Barths for their kindassistance. Iappreciatethetimeeachofthehotelandrestaurantmanagersandstaff tooktotellmeabouttheirpropertiesandtakemeontours.Withouttheir patientguidance,thisbookwouldbealotshorterandhalfasvaluable. viii (cid:1) Introduction What Type Are You? B eforeyoudecidewheretogo In This Chapter intheLeewardIslands,you should examine your needs and desires (cid:1) AboutBarbados 4 – and especially your traveling style. (cid:1) GettingThere 10 Take a look at the suggested styles (cid:1) People&Culture 11 below,andseewhichdescriptionfitsyou (cid:1) Accommodations 14 best. (cid:1) Eating&Drinking 14 The Perfect Cruise (cid:1) TravelInformation 17 (cid:1) LandofAdventure 29 Passenger (cid:1) TravelingwithChildren 53 (cid:1) Culture,Art&Music 65 Your idea of the perfect vacation is set- tlingintooneplaceandhavingtheworldcometoyou.Yourideaofheaven includesmultiplerestaurantstochoosefrom,loadsofentertainment,fun activitiesandshopping…allwithinashortdistancefromyourroom.And youstillwanttoexploredifferentcultures,albeitinquickglimpsesthat can be had on an organized tour, so that you can return to your little havenonorbythesea. The Boots-On Adventurer To you, the world is one big hiking trail supplemented by huge pools for yourkayaking,sailing,parasailingordivingactivities.Themoreexplora- tionsyoucancramintoadaythebetter–andthenattheendoftheday youwanttoseewhatthelocalculturehastoexploreinthewayofcuisines andentertainment.Beach-sitting,lazyswimminginawarmpool,orsit- tingonabalconyreadingagoodbookarenotamongyourpreferredactivi- ties. The Cultural Explorer Theworldisafascinatingplace,andyouwanttoknowasmuchaboutit asyoucan.Youlovetalkingtohotelowners,restaurateurs,touroperators andjustordinarypeopletohearwhattheylikebestabouttheircountry. Youaregametotrynativecuisines(althoughmonkeybrainsmaynotbe toyourliking),dances,gamesandanythingdifferentfromyourowncul- ture.You’dprefertostayinplacesthatdon’tremindyouofhome,butgive youanewviewoftheworldatlarge.