Lebanese home cooking: simple, delicious, mostly vegetarian recipes from the founder of Beirut's Souk el Tayeb Market PDF
Preview Lebanese home cooking: simple, delicious, mostly vegetarian recipes from the founder of Beirut's Souk el Tayeb Market
Wraps around board Printer’s notes: l l ee Cover should print matte lam bb “To me, Kamal is one of the great culinary minds l l eebbgold faoail #83n1n. eessee of our time. I’ve been lucky enough to experience aa nn many of his projects, and to finally have a ee book that shows just a fraction of what Kamal ss is about is such a joy.” ee —René Redzepi, hh h hoommee chef and co-owner of oo the two-Michelin star restaurant Noma mm ee Growing up around the orchards of Jeita, just outside Beirut, Kamal Mouzawak learned to cook by watching his family and cc neighbors plant herbs in their gardens, harvest almonds and oo ccooookkiinngg citrus fruit from their trees, and transform these bounties into oo the fresh and distinctive cuisine of home. kk After the Lebanese Civil War, Kamal toured the farthest ii regions of his country, discovering yet more neighbors from nn differing religions and traditions, sharing a common land gg and fare. Lebanese Home Cooking is an invitation to explore these traditions, bringing the authentic, mostly vegetarian meals of Kamal’s homeland onto our own tables, no matter how far K K aa they might be from the orchards of Jeita. mm SSimimpplele,, D Deelilcicioiouuss,, M Moossttlyly V-Veeggeettaarriaiann aa ll MM RReeccipipeess f frroomm t thhee F Foouunnddeerr o off B Beeiriruutt’s’s oo uu zz aa ww SSoouukk e el lT Taayyeebb M Maarrkkeett aa ISBN: 978-1-63159-037-5 kk $24.99 US | £15.99 UK | $29.99 CAN Visit quarryspoon.com | Follow us on Kamal Mouzawak N A E Wraps around board 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 1 3/6/15 11:05 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 1 JJoobb::0066--4422004433 TTiittllee::RRPP -- LLeebbaanneessee HHoommee CCooookkiinn1gg8/ 6/15 9:31 am (Text) DDttpp::LLYY PPaaggee::11 l ebanese home ccooookkiinngg Simple, Delicious, Mostly Vegetarian Recipes from the Founder of Beirut’s Souk el Tayeb Market Kamal Mouzawak 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 2 3/6/15 11:05 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 3 3/6/15 11:05 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 2 JJoobb::0066--4422004433 TTiittllee::RRPP -- LLeebbaanneessee HHoommee CCooookkiinngg18 /6/15 9:31 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 3 JJoobb::0066--4422004433 TTiittllee::RRPP -- LLeebbaanneessee HHoommee CCooookkiinn1gg8/ 6/15 9:31 am (Text) (Text) DDttpp::LLYY PPaaggee::22 DDttpp::LLYY PPaaggee::33 l ebanese home ccooookkiinngg Simple, Delicious, Mostly Vegetarian Recipes from the Founder of Beirut’s Souk el Tayeb Market Kamal Mouzawak 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 2 3/6/15 11:05 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 3 3/6/15 11:05 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 2 JJoobb::0066--4422004433 TTiittllee::RRPP -- LLeebbaanneessee HHoommee CCooookkiinngg18 /6/15 9:31 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 3 JJoobb::0066--4422004433 TTiittllee::RRPP -- LLeebbaanneessee HHoommee CCooookkiinn1gg8/ 6/15 9:31 am (Text) (Text) DDttpp::LLYY PPaaggee::22 DDttpp::LLYY PPaaggee::33 © 2015 by Quarry Books Text and Photography © 2015 Quarry Books First published in the United States of America in 2015 by Quarry Books, a member of Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. 100 Cummings Center Suite 406-L Beverly, Massachusetts 01915-6101 Telephone: (978) 282-9590 Fax: (978) 283-2742 www.quarrybooks.com Visit www.QuarrySPOON.com and help us celebrate food and culture one spoonful at a time! All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility is accepted by the producer, publisher, or printer for any infringe- ment of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits acc- urately comply with information supplied. We apologize for any inaccuracies that may have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a subsequent reprinting of the book. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ISBN: 978-1-63159-037-5 Digital edition published in 2015 eISBN: 978-1-62788-334-4 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available Design: Jonathan Hanahan & Dani LaFountaine, Milieu Photography: Ayla Hibri Printed in China 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 4 3/6/15 11:05 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 5 3/6/15 11:05 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 4 JJoobb::0066--4422004433 TTiittllee::RRPP -- LLeebbaanneessee HHoommee CCooookkiinngg18 /6/15 9:31 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 5 JJoobb::0066--4422004433 TTiittllee::RRPP -- LLeebbaanneessee HHoommee CCooookkiinn1gg8/ 6/15 9:31 am (Text) (Text) DDttpp::LLYY PPaaggee::44 DDttpp::LLYY PPaaggee::55 © 2015 by Quarry Books Text and Photography © 2015 Quarry Books First published in the United States of America in 2015 by Quarry Books, a member of Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. 100 Cummings Center Suite 406-L Beverly, Massachusetts 01915-6101 Telephone: (978) 282-9590 Fax: (978) 283-2742 www.quarrybooks.com Visit www.QuarrySPOON.com and help us celebrate food and culture one spoonful at a time! All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility is accepted by the producer, publisher, or printer for any infringe- ment of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits acc- urately comply with information supplied. We apologize for any inaccuracies that may have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a subsequent reprinting of the book. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ISBN: 978-1-63159-037-5 Digital edition published in 2015 eISBN: 978-1-62788-334-4 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available Design: Jonathan Hanahan & Dani LaFountaine, Milieu Photography: Ayla Hibri Printed in China 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 4 3/6/15 11:05 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 5 3/6/15 11:05 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 4 JJoobb::0066--4422004433 TTiittllee::RRPP -- LLeebbaanneessee HHoommee CCooookkiinngg18 /6/15 9:31 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 5 JJoobb::0066--4422004433 TTiittllee::RRPP -- LLeebbaanneessee HHoommee CCooookkiinn1gg8/ 6/15 9:31 am (Text) (Text) DDttpp::LLYY PPaaggee::44 DDttpp::LLYY PPaaggee::55 SALADS AND BREADS Garlic Paste (Toum) CCOONNTTEENNTTSS 92 138 Fried Eggplant with Yogurt and Pine Nuts (Fatteh Batenjenn) Tabouleh 139 97 Bread Salad (Fattoush) 100 SWEETS INTRODUCTION Bulgur with Cabbage and Chile VEGETABLES Purslane and Beets (Baa’leh w Shmandar) 140 08 (Marshousheh) 62 102 31 White Bean Salad Smoked Green Wheat with Vegetables (Fassolia Aa'rida Moutabale) Carob Cake (Sfouf b' Debs) (Frikeh bel Khodra) Vegetarian Stuffed Grape Leaves 106 143 32 (Warra' Arrish Atee') Thyme Flatbread (Manaiish) Turmeric Cake (Sfouf) Armenian Fine Bulgur Salad (Itch) 64 108 145 34 Beef-Stuffed Zucchini (Koussa Mehsheh) Cheese Pies (Fatayer Jebneh) Chilled Apricot Soup (Khoshaf) 68 109 147 Eggplant Fatteh (Fatteh Makdouss) Spinach and Sumac Pies (Fatayer Khodra) Fried Biscuits in Scented Syrup (Maakroun) MUJADARA 70 112 148 36 Fried Taro with Chickpeas and Onions Meat Pies (Lahm B'ajin) Wheat, Fruits, and Nuts (Qamhyieh) (Kelkass b Tehineh) 115 150 72 Sesame Bars (Semsemyieh) Southern-Style Split Lentils with Rice Taro with Lentils (Kelkass bi Adass) 152 (Mujadara Safra) 73 GOOD FRIDAY FOOD Rice Pudding with Spices (Meghli) 38 Eggplant in Spicy Tomato Sauce 116 154 Lentils and Rice (Mujadara) (Massaee’t Batenjenn) 40 75 Wilted Greens with Fried Onions Red Beans and Bulgur (Mjadaret Loubyieh) Summer Zucchini Stew (Mfaraket Koussa) (Hendbeh b Zeit) Bulgur Chickpea Stew (Zenkol) 41 76 78 118 Grainy-Style Rice with Lentils (Mudardara) Stuffed Artichokes Homemade Noodles with Lentils (Reshta) 44 (Ardeh Chawkeh Mehsheh) 121 Lentils and Rice with Beef 80 Kibbeh with Chickpeas (Kebbet Hommos) KIBBEH (Mujadara b' Lahmeh) Fried Cauliflower with Tarator Sauce 122 12 45 (Arnabit Meeleh + Tarator) Baked Vegetable Stew 83 (Masbahet el Darwish) Fried Zucchini and Eggplant 123 Pumpkin Kibbeh (Kebbet Laa’tin) STEWS (Koussa w Batenjenn Mee’leh) Thick Mixed Bean Soup (Makhlouta) 15 46 84 125 Potato Kibbeh (Kebbet Batata Nayeh) Fried Eggplant with Yogurt (Mfassah') 19 85 Armenian Lentil Kibbeh (Vospov Kofte) Okra Stew (Yakhnet Bemyieh) Potatoes with Green Coriander and Chile SOUK AND STREET FOOD 21 51 Flakes (Batata Harra) 126 Fish Kibbeh (Kebbet Samak) Red Bean Stew (Fassolia B'zeit) 86 23 53 Chard Stalks in Tarator White Butter Bean Stew (Dlou’ Selee’ Mtaballeh) Eggplant Dip (Moutabal) (Yakhnet Fassolia Baida Arrida) 88 128 GRAINS 55 Potatoes with Coriander and Cumin Hummus 24 Green Fava Bean Stew (Foul Akhdar b’ Zeit) (Batata Jezzinyieh) 130 56 89 Fava Bean Stew (Foul Medamass) INDEX Lemony Lentil Stew (Aadass bi Hammod) Mashed Potatoes with Herbs 131 155 Bulgur with Tomatoes and Peppers 58 (Batata Melee’yieh) Chickpeas with Yogurt (Fatteh Hommos) (Burghol aa’ Banadoura) Stewed Green Beans (Loubyieh B'zeit) 90 133 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 27 59 Falafel 159 Bulgur with Mixed Vegetables (Makmoura) Spinach Stew with Pine Nuts 134 28 (Yakhnet Sbenegh) Tahini Sauce (Tarator) ABOUT THE AUTHOR 60 136 160 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 6 22/6/15 2:58 pm 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 7 22/6/15 2:58 pm 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 6 JJoobb::0066--4422004433 TTiittllee::RRPP -- LLeebbaanneessee HHoommee CCooookkiinngg18 /6/15 9:31 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 7 JJoobb::0066--4422004433 TTiittllee::RRPP -- LLeebbaanneessee HHoommee CCooookkiinn1gg8/ 6/15 9:31 am (Text) (Text) DDttpp::LLYY PPaaggee::66 DDttpp::LLYY PPaaggee::77 SALADS AND BREADS Garlic Paste (Toum) CCOONNTTEENNTTSS 92 138 Fried Eggplant with Yogurt and Pine Nuts (Fatteh Batenjenn) Tabouleh 139 97 Bread Salad (Fattoush) 100 SWEETS INTRODUCTION Bulgur with Cabbage and Chile VEGETABLES Purslane and Beets (Baa’leh w Shmandar) 140 08 (Marshousheh) 62 102 31 White Bean Salad Smoked Green Wheat with Vegetables (Fassolia Aa'rida Moutabale) Carob Cake (Sfouf b' Debs) (Frikeh bel Khodra) Vegetarian Stuffed Grape Leaves 106 143 32 (Warra' Arrish Atee') Thyme Flatbread (Manaiish) Turmeric Cake (Sfouf) Armenian Fine Bulgur Salad (Itch) 64 108 145 34 Beef-Stuffed Zucchini (Koussa Mehsheh) Cheese Pies (Fatayer Jebneh) Chilled Apricot Soup (Khoshaf) 68 109 147 Eggplant Fatteh (Fatteh Makdouss) Spinach and Sumac Pies (Fatayer Khodra) Fried Biscuits in Scented Syrup (Maakroun) MUJADARA 70 112 148 36 Fried Taro with Chickpeas and Onions Meat Pies (Lahm B'ajin) Wheat, Fruits, and Nuts (Qamhyieh) (Kelkass b Tehineh) 115 150 72 Sesame Bars (Semsemyieh) Southern-Style Split Lentils with Rice Taro with Lentils (Kelkass bi Adass) 152 (Mujadara Safra) 73 GOOD FRIDAY FOOD Rice Pudding with Spices (Meghli) 38 Eggplant in Spicy Tomato Sauce 116 154 Lentils and Rice (Mujadara) (Massaee’t Batenjenn) 40 75 Wilted Greens with Fried Onions Red Beans and Bulgur (Mjadaret Loubyieh) Summer Zucchini Stew (Mfaraket Koussa) (Hendbeh b Zeit) Bulgur Chickpea Stew (Zenkol) 41 76 78 118 Grainy-Style Rice with Lentils (Mudardara) Stuffed Artichokes Homemade Noodles with Lentils (Reshta) 44 (Ardeh Chawkeh Mehsheh) 121 Lentils and Rice with Beef 80 Kibbeh with Chickpeas (Kebbet Hommos) KIBBEH (Mujadara b' Lahmeh) Fried Cauliflower with Tarator Sauce 122 12 45 (Arnabit Meeleh + Tarator) Baked Vegetable Stew 83 (Masbahet el Darwish) Fried Zucchini and Eggplant 123 Pumpkin Kibbeh (Kebbet Laa’tin) STEWS (Koussa w Batenjenn Mee’leh) Thick Mixed Bean Soup (Makhlouta) 15 46 84 125 Potato Kibbeh (Kebbet Batata Nayeh) Fried Eggplant with Yogurt (Mfassah') 19 85 Armenian Lentil Kibbeh (Vospov Kofte) Okra Stew (Yakhnet Bemyieh) Potatoes with Green Coriander and Chile SOUK AND STREET FOOD 21 51 Flakes (Batata Harra) 126 Fish Kibbeh (Kebbet Samak) Red Bean Stew (Fassolia B'zeit) 86 23 53 Chard Stalks in Tarator White Butter Bean Stew (Dlou’ Selee’ Mtaballeh) Eggplant Dip (Moutabal) (Yakhnet Fassolia Baida Arrida) 88 128 GRAINS 55 Potatoes with Coriander and Cumin Hummus 24 Green Fava Bean Stew (Foul Akhdar b’ Zeit) (Batata Jezzinyieh) 130 56 89 Fava Bean Stew (Foul Medamass) INDEX Lemony Lentil Stew (Aadass bi Hammod) Mashed Potatoes with Herbs 131 155 Bulgur with Tomatoes and Peppers 58 (Batata Melee’yieh) Chickpeas with Yogurt (Fatteh Hommos) (Burghol aa’ Banadoura) Stewed Green Beans (Loubyieh B'zeit) 90 133 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 27 59 Falafel 159 Bulgur with Mixed Vegetables (Makmoura) Spinach Stew with Pine Nuts 134 28 (Yakhnet Sbenegh) Tahini Sauce (Tarator) ABOUT THE AUTHOR 60 136 160 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 6 22/6/15 2:58 pm 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 7 22/6/15 2:58 pm 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 6 JJoobb::0066--4422004433 TTiittllee::RRPP -- LLeebbaanneessee HHoommee CCooookkiinngg18 /6/15 9:31 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 7 JJoobb::0066--4422004433 TTiittllee::RRPP -- LLeebbaanneessee HHoommee CCooookkiinn1gg8/ 6/15 9:31 am (Text) (Text) DDttpp::LLYY PPaaggee::66 DDttpp::LLYY PPaaggee::77 IINNTTRROODDUUCCTTIIOONN Why? Because no one can teach cooking. And no one can My mother had her cahier de recettes, a notebook of be taught to cook. You just cook! Like you breathe, you handwritten recipes of dishes or cakes she had tasted, and live, you make love, you walk … no one taught you how to so recorded recipes like kèke tante Eugénie (a cake, walk. Can you imagine? "Put your right foot in front, lean in her own way of writing English—when she knew French on it, then move the left farther ahead … !" You have never but not English!) and osmalyieh de Thérèse (a pastry), but said this or heard this being told to a one-year-old toddler. never a main dish. And she had an old French dessert That child just tried to walk, and you just stood by, cookbook, inherited from a nun in the nearby convent, watching and encouraging, until he or she walked alone! written by Henri-Paul Pellaprat, who wrote the cooking So, you just cook! And you cook for so many reasons: bible of every French household in the old days. Main because you need to feed yourself; because you need to dishes were never in the cahier de recettes. How could feed your family; because you need to gather around what they be? Baking was one thing, but cooking was just can be shared by a group, a tribe of family, or friends; understood. It was never written, never taught. You because you want to treat yourself and others; because just cook! you can communicate love and caring through a bite; You just join a cook in the kitchen, help and watch, because this is how you live; or because this is how you and you will learn—not the recipe, but the way. And then can perpetuate what you lived. you will make it your own way. We all learn the same Sales of books in most literary genres are down— alphabet, but no two people ever write the same way. except for food and drink, and religion! Is food the new In school, I studied graphic design. But I never religion? Do "foodies" find in food and cooking the life worked in it. I worked at Art et Culture, the first cultural they dream about and aspire to? There are many chefs, center that sprouted after the civil war in Lebanon ended cooks, and "lifestylers" who will tell you, and issue edicts, (1991), and that was a great teaching time in my life. I on what must be done, eaten, and bought … for a saw people from all regions, the different religions and better life! politics of Lebanon, those who were fighting yesterday As British journalist Steven Poole, author of You but were coming together then around art and culture. Aren’t What You Eat, says, "We no longer trust politicians It was a common ground that could bring them all toge- or the clergy; but we are hungry for cooks to tell us not ther, looking for similarities beyond their differences. just how to eat but how to live, the moralistic synecdoche And so I started touring a country I had lived in easily accomplished since we now happily accept that one but had never known (Lebanon during the war was divided lives through eating." into many unreachable parts) and started discovering wonderful people, the same everywhere, who had in common a land, an agriculture, and a cuisine. The Orchards of Jeita I started writing about travel and food, about places, traditions, the hows and whys, trying to understand a bit In Lebanon, I grew up around orchards in Jeita, a small better this patchwork that was Lebanon. It’s a place like village close to Beirut that is known for its wonderful nowhere else in the world, where everyone is “the one” Do you really need another cookbook? How caves. Men were busy in the gardens, planting herbs and and “the other” at the same time, and where everybody is many do you already own? What would you salad greens and harvesting citrus fruits and almonds. And part of a bigger mosaic that tries to stick together as much use it for? Do you ever open a cookbook to women were busy in the kitchens, transforming the as possible: Christians and Muslims, sea people and cook? Or it is more like a perfect object to look gardens' bounties into what we ate for breakfast, lunch, mountain people, those looking to the East and those at? Do I sound like your mom? If so, I'd rather and dinner—and competing over who could do what best. looking to the West… all trying to make one together! evoke her, not by reprimanding you, but by Obviously, each one thought all that she did was the best Then I developed an interest in macrobiotics and in cooking with you! and looked with pity on the lesser good the others did! the Slow Food movement. In the spring of 2004, the first 8 9 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 8 3/6/15 11:05 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 9 3/6/15 11:05 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 8 JJoobb::0066--4422004433 TTiittllee::RRPP -- LLeebbaanneessee HHoommee CCooookkiinngg18 /6/15 9:31 am 42043 - Lebanese Home Cooking_001-160.indd 9 JJoobb::0066--4422004433 TTiittllee::RRPP -- LLeebbaanneessee HHoommee CCooookkii1nn9gg/6 /15 10:46 am (Text) (Text) DDttpp::LLYY PPaaggee::88 DDttpp::LLYY PPaaggee::99
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