Leather Braiding

188 Pages·1950·19.82 MB·English

by  Bruce Grant

,
-.1 ARTS, DECORATIVE & CRAFTS
•
LEATHER BRAIDING
LEATHER BRAIDING has stood for more than forty years as the
definitive book in its field. Grant's clearly written guide to the art of
leather braiding contains detailed illustrations, step-by-step instruc­
tions, and a wealth of incidental, fascinating information. The book
makes accessible to even the novice serviceable and recreational
uses of leather, from the simple but clever braided button to the elab­
orate results of thong applique.
Included is a historical perspective of leather and its function in
society, a chapter on leather braiding tools, and a glossary of terms.
BRUCE GRANT (1893-1977) came by his life-long interest in leather
braiding as a natural outgrowth of his association with cowboys on
the ranches near his Texas home. Leather braiding became his major
hobby, and as he grew older it continued to occupy his spare time
during his school years.
As a newspaperman, Grant travelled over much of the world and
never neglected an opportunity to seek out examples of leather
braiding. He collected all existing literature on leather braiding and
searched through the classics for references on this ancient art.
Also by Bruce Grant
Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding
How to Make Cowboy Horse Gear
CORNELL MARITIME PRESS
Centreville, Marylanri ?1 1':'7
60ZZ-00
LEATHER BRAIDlKU" BOOK
I
Qn=l I
I
MADE IN USA
._.".
*"",', $: ", $IA(£;( 1$.. .. CONTENTS
Page
The Romance of Leather Braiding. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . XIII
Leather-Braiding Tools-PI. . ... . . . .. .. . . 2
I
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Thong Cutting-PI. 2 . 4
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ,
FLAT BRAIDS
Two-Thong Flat Braids-PI. 3 ........................... 6
Three-Thong Hair Braid-PI. 4 . . . . . . .. . . . . .. . . . . . . .. . .. . 8
Four-Thong Braid-PI. 4 . .. . . .. . . .. . . . .. . . . .. . . . . . . . .. . . 8
Three·Part Inside or Trick Braid-PI. 5 .. .. . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . 10
\: �'.. ..../, . �� :,- . Five-Part Inside Trick Braid-PI . 6 . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . .. .. . . . 12
�4'.
�'\
�.l';. . �.�...
. Five-Thong Braids-PI. 7 ................................ 14
.,. �J.: .
�'
Six-Thong Braids-PI. 8 ................................ . 16
Six-Thong Braids-PI. 9 ................................ 18
,
.
... . ..
Seven-Thong Braid-PI. 9 .............................. . 18
Nine-Thong Braid-PI. 9 .............................. . 18
Thirteen-Thong Braid-PI. 10 ........................... 20
Flat Braid of Twenty-one Thongs-PI. 10.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Conquistador Braid-PI. II . . . . . .. 22
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Slit Braids-PI. 12 . . . . .. . . . . . . .. . . . . . .. . .. . . . .. . . . . . . . . . 24
,
ROUND BRAIDS
Round Braids of One Thong or Twist Braid-PI. 13 . . . . .. . . 26
Round Braid of Two Thongs or Trick Twist-PI. 13 .. . .. . . 26
Round Braid of Four Thongs-PI. 14 .. . .. . .. . . . .. . . .. .. . . 28
Turk's Head Terminal for Round Braid-PI. 15 . .. .. . .. . . . 30
Round Braid of Six Thongs-PI. 16 . . . . . . 32
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Herringbone Braid of Eight Thongs-PI. 17 .. .. . . . . . .. . .. . 34
Back Braid of Six Thongs-PI. 18 .................... , . . . 36
Back Braid of Eight Thongs-PI. 19 ...................... 38
Belt made from a four thong round braid (without core, 50 feet
Round Braid of Twelve Thongs-PI. 20 . . . . .. . .. . .. . . . . .. . 40
after braided, PI. 14) and then tied in Chinese knots.
How to Make a Braided Quirt-PI. 21 . . .. . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . 42
IX
._.".
*"",', $: ", $IA(£;( 1$.. .. CONTENTS
Page
The Romance of Leather Braiding. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . XIII
Leather-Braiding Tools-PI. . ... . . . .. .. . . 2
I
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Thong Cutting-PI. 2 . 4
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ,
FLAT BRAIDS
Two-Thong Flat Braids-PI. 3 ........................... 6
Three-Thong Hair Braid-PI. 4 . . . . . . .. . . . . .. . . . . . . .. . .. . 8
Four-Thong Braid-PI. 4 . .. . . .. . . .. . . . .. . . . .. . . . . . . . .. . . 8
Three·Part Inside or Trick Braid-PI. 5 .. .. . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . 10
\: �'.. ..../, . �� :,- . Five-Part Inside Trick Braid-PI . 6 . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . .. .. . . . 12
�4'.
�'\
�.l';. . �.�...
. Five-Thong Braids-PI. 7 ................................ 14
.,. �J.: .
�'
Six-Thong Braids-PI. 8 ................................ . 16
Six-Thong Braids-PI. 9 ................................ 18
,
.
... . ..
Seven-Thong Braid-PI. 9 .............................. . 18
Nine-Thong Braid-PI. 9 .............................. . 18
Thirteen-Thong Braid-PI. 10 ........................... 20
Flat Braid of Twenty-one Thongs-PI. 10.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Conquistador Braid-PI. II . . . . . .. 22
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Slit Braids-PI. 12 . . . . .. . . . . . . .. . . . . . .. . .. . . . .. . . . . . . . . . 24
,
ROUND BRAIDS
Round Braids of One Thong or Twist Braid-PI. 13 . . . . .. . . 26
Round Braid of Two Thongs or Trick Twist-PI. 13 .. . .. . . 26
Round Braid of Four Thongs-PI. 14 .. . .. . .. . . . .. . . .. .. . . 28
Turk's Head Terminal for Round Braid-PI. 15 . .. .. . .. . . . 30
Round Braid of Six Thongs-PI. 16 . . . . . . 32
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Herringbone Braid of Eight Thongs-PI. 17 .. .. . . . . . .. . .. . 34
Back Braid of Six Thongs-PI. 18 .................... , . . . 36
Back Braid of Eight Thongs-PI. 19 ...................... 38
Belt made from a four thong round braid (without core, 50 feet
Round Braid of Twelve Thongs-PI. 20 . . . . .. . .. . .. . . . . .. . 40
after braided, PI. 14) and then tied in Chinese knots.
How to Make a Braided Quirt-PI. 21 . . .. . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . 42
IX
-
SQUARE BRAIDS
HANDLE COVERING
Page
Page
Square Braid of Four Thongs-PI. 22 . . . 44
. . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . Slit Leather Handle Covering of One Thong-PI. 40 .... ... 80
.
Spiral Braid-PI. 23 ................................... . 46 Spanish Hitching-PI. 41 . .. . . . ....... ................. .. 82
Spiral Twist Braid�PI. 23 ... ................ ........... 46
. Zig-Zag Braid-PI. 41 . ... .. . . . 82
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . .
Square Braid of Eight Thongs-PI. 24 .... . . ... .. .. .... .. 48
. Mosaic Type Braid-PI. 42 ... . ... ... .. . . .... ......... .. 84
,
Horizontal Braid-PI . 42 .. . ...... ...... .. . . .......... .. 84
.
BUTTONS
Hitching-PI. 42 ......... . . . 84
. . ... .
. . . .
Roll Button-PI. 25 .. ..... . . ..... .. . . 50
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Four-Thong Twis Braid Covering-PI. 43 .... 86
.
Two-Thong Turk's Head Button-PI. 26 .. . .... . 52 - . . .
, . . . . . . . . . Six-Thong MuitiF e Bre' -.-PI. 44 ..... .. . .. .. .... .. . .... 88
.
Three-Thong Turk'S Head Button-PI. 26 ..... . . . ... . ... . 52
Multiple Braid Tal- .nd Core Covering-PI. 45 ... . . ... .... . 90
Chinese Button Knot-PI. 27 .. ... ....... .. ... .... . . .. .. . 54
Diamond Button KJol t-PI. 27 . .. ...... .. ..., .. . . .. . . . . . . 54
SPANISH KNOTS AND TURK'S HEADS
.
, Round Button of Four Thongs-PI. 28 . . .. . . . . . .. . .. . . . . .. 56
Braided Paper Turk's Head-PI. 46 .. . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Square Button of Four Thongs-PI. 29 . . . ....... ...., . . . . . 58
Three-Part Five-Bight Turk', Head-PI. 47 . . .. . . .. . .. . .. . . 94
Five-Part Four-Bight Turk's Head-PI. 4 8 .. .. .. . . . . . . . .. . . 96
EDGE LACING
Labyrinth Method of Making a Five-Part Four-Bight Turk's
Spanish Edge Lacing of One Loop-PI. 30 . .. .. . .. .. . .. .. . . 60
Head-PI. 49 ... .. ....... .............. .... ..... ... 98
Splicing-PI. 31 62
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Four-Part Three-Bight Turk', Head-PI. 50 .. . .. . . . . . .. . . . 100
Joining-PI. 31 ... . .. . . . . .. . .. . .. .. . . .. .. . . . . .. . . . . . . .. . 62
Sliding Knot or Five-Part TWO-Bight Turk's Head-PI. 51 . .. \02
Spanish Edge Lacing of Two Loops-PI. 32 ... .. . ..... . . .. 64
Joining Spanish Edge Lacing of Two Loops-PI. 32 . .. .. . . . 64 Five-Part Three-Bight Turk's Head-PI. 52 . .. . . . . . .. . .. .. . 104
Spanish Edge Lacing of Three Loops-PI. 33 .... ...... .. . . 66 Six-Part Five-Bight Turk's Head Raised from a Four-Part
Two-Tone Spanish }':dge Lacing of One Loop-PI. 33 '" . ' " 66 Three-Bight Turk's Head-PI. 53 ... . . ...... .... . .. .. 106
Round Braid Edge t-acing-PI. 34 . .. . . . . . . .. . .. . .. . .. . . . . 6 8 Seven-Part Six-Bight Turk's Head Raised from a Five-Part
i Four-Bight Turk's Head-PI. 54 .... . ... ...... .. ..... 108
Round Braid Edge t-ac ng (Second Method)-PI. 35 .... . . .' 70
.
Round Braid Edge t-acing (Third Method)-PI. 35 . .. . . .. . 70 Two-Bight Turk's Head of any Length-PI. 55 .. .......... 1 10
Use of Spanish Edge Lacing in Attaching Pockets and Flaps- Long Three-Bight Turk's Head-PI. 56 , . .. .. 1 I2
.
. . . . . . . . . . _ .
�. 36 . . 72
. . . . · · · · · · · . . Woven Ring Knot of One Pass-PI. 57 . . . . . . .. .. . . . .. . . . . . 1 I4
Staggered Slits-PI. 36 .. . . . . . . . . .. . . . .. . . .. . . . . .. . .. . . .. . 72
Woven Ring Knot of Three Passes-PI. 5 8 . . . .. . .. 1 16
. .
Miscellaneous Edge t-acings-PI. 36 . . .. .. .. . . .. . .. .. . .. . . . 72 . . . . . _ .
Gaucho Knot of One Pass-PI. 59 . . . . . . .. . 1 1 8
. . . . . . . . . . . . . _ .
BUCKLE COVERING Gaucho Knot of Two Passes-PI. 60 . .. .. . .. . .. . . . . . 120
. . . . _ .
Spanish Type Buckle Covering 01 One Loop-PI. 37 . .. . . . . . 7 4 Gaucho Knot of Three Passes-PI. 61 . . . .. . .. .... . .... _ . . . 122
Spanish Type Buckle Covering of Two Loops-PI. 38 . .. . . .. 76 Gaucho Knot of Three Passes (Part II)-:-PI. 61-A . .. . . .. .. .. 124
Spanish Type Buckle Covering of Three Loops-PI. 39 .. . . . . 7 8 Double Gaucho Knot of Two Passes-PI. 62 .. . . . . . .. . . . . .. 126
X
XI
-
SQUARE BRAIDS
HANDLE COVERING
Page
Page
Square Braid of Four Thongs-PI. 22 . . . 44
. . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . Slit Leather Handle Covering of One Thong-PI. 40 .... ... 80
.
Spiral Braid-PI. 23 ................................... . 46 Spanish Hitching-PI. 41 . .. . . . ....... ................. .. 82
Spiral Twist Braid�PI. 23 ... ................ ........... 46
. Zig-Zag Braid-PI. 41 . ... .. . . . 82
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . .
Square Braid of Eight Thongs-PI. 24 .... . . ... .. .. .... .. 48
. Mosaic Type Braid-PI. 42 ... . ... ... .. . . .... ......... .. 84
,
Horizontal Braid-PI . 42 .. . ...... ...... .. . . .......... .. 84
.
BUTTONS
Hitching-PI. 42 ......... . . . 84
. . ... .
. . . .
Roll Button-PI. 25 .. ..... . . ..... .. . . 50
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Four-Thong Twis Braid Covering-PI. 43 .... 86
.
Two-Thong Turk's Head Button-PI. 26 .. . .... . 52 - . . .
, . . . . . . . . . Six-Thong MuitiF e Bre' -.-PI. 44 ..... .. . .. .. .... .. . .... 88
.
Three-Thong Turk'S Head Button-PI. 26 ..... . . . ... . ... . 52
Multiple Braid Tal- .nd Core Covering-PI. 45 ... . . ... .... . 90
Chinese Button Knot-PI. 27 .. ... ....... .. ... .... . . .. .. . 54
Diamond Button KJol t-PI. 27 . .. ...... .. ..., .. . . .. . . . . . . 54
SPANISH KNOTS AND TURK'S HEADS
.
, Round Button of Four Thongs-PI. 28 . . .. . . . . . .. . .. . . . . .. 56
Braided Paper Turk's Head-PI. 46 .. . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Square Button of Four Thongs-PI. 29 . . . ....... ...., . . . . . 58
Three-Part Five-Bight Turk', Head-PI. 47 . . .. . . .. . .. . .. . . 94
Five-Part Four-Bight Turk's Head-PI. 4 8 .. .. .. . . . . . . . .. . . 96
EDGE LACING
Labyrinth Method of Making a Five-Part Four-Bight Turk's
Spanish Edge Lacing of One Loop-PI. 30 . .. .. . .. .. . .. .. . . 60
Head-PI. 49 ... .. ....... .............. .... ..... ... 98
Splicing-PI. 31 62
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Four-Part Three-Bight Turk', Head-PI. 50 .. . .. . . . . . .. . . . 100
Joining-PI. 31 ... . .. . . . . .. . .. . .. .. . . .. .. . . . . .. . . . . . . .. . 62
Sliding Knot or Five-Part TWO-Bight Turk's Head-PI. 51 . .. \02
Spanish Edge Lacing of Two Loops-PI. 32 ... .. . ..... . . .. 64
Joining Spanish Edge Lacing of Two Loops-PI. 32 . .. .. . . . 64 Five-Part Three-Bight Turk's Head-PI. 52 . .. . . . . . .. . .. .. . 104
Spanish Edge Lacing of Three Loops-PI. 33 .... ...... .. . . 66 Six-Part Five-Bight Turk's Head Raised from a Four-Part
Two-Tone Spanish }':dge Lacing of One Loop-PI. 33 '" . ' " 66 Three-Bight Turk's Head-PI. 53 ... . . ...... .... . .. .. 106
Round Braid Edge t-acing-PI. 34 . .. . . . . . . .. . .. . .. . .. . . . . 6 8 Seven-Part Six-Bight Turk's Head Raised from a Five-Part
i Four-Bight Turk's Head-PI. 54 .... . ... ...... .. ..... 108
Round Braid Edge t-ac ng (Second Method)-PI. 35 .... . . .' 70
.
Round Braid Edge t-acing (Third Method)-PI. 35 . .. . . .. . 70 Two-Bight Turk's Head of any Length-PI. 55 .. .......... 1 10
Use of Spanish Edge Lacing in Attaching Pockets and Flaps- Long Three-Bight Turk's Head-PI. 56 , . .. .. 1 I2
.
. . . . . . . . . . _ .
�. 36 . . 72
. . . . · · · · · · · . . Woven Ring Knot of One Pass-PI. 57 . . . . . . .. .. . . . .. . . . . . 1 I4
Staggered Slits-PI. 36 .. . . . . . . . . .. . . . .. . . .. . . . . .. . .. . . .. . 72
Woven Ring Knot of Three Passes-PI. 5 8 . . . .. . .. 1 16
. .
Miscellaneous Edge t-acings-PI. 36 . . .. .. .. . . .. . .. .. . .. . . . 72 . . . . . _ .
Gaucho Knot of One Pass-PI. 59 . . . . . . .. . 1 1 8
. . . . . . . . . . . . . _ .
BUCKLE COVERING Gaucho Knot of Two Passes-PI. 60 . .. .. . .. . .. . . . . . 120
. . . . _ .
Spanish Type Buckle Covering 01 One Loop-PI. 37 . .. . . . . . 7 4 Gaucho Knot of Three Passes-PI. 61 . . . .. . .. .... . .... _ . . . 122
Spanish Type Buckle Covering of Two Loops-PI. 38 . .. . . .. 76 Gaucho Knot of Three Passes (Part II)-:-PI. 61-A . .. . . .. .. .. 124
Spanish Type Buckle Covering of Three Loops-PI. 39 .. . . . . 7 8 Double Gaucho Knot of Two Passes-PI. 62 .. . . . . . .. . . . . .. 126
X
XI
Page The Romance of
Double Gaucho Knot of Two Passes-PI. 62-A ... .. . ..
12 8
. . . . . LEATHER BRAIDING
Double Gaucho Knot of Three Passes-PI. 63 ............. .
130
Herringbone Knot-PI. 64 132 When man first realized what a useful and serviceable thing his
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . . . . . .
own skin was he got busy trying to figure out how he could turn to
Herringbone Knot-PI. 64-A .. .. . .... . . ..
134
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
practical account the skins and hides of other animals. This was the
Headhunter's Knot of Two Passes-PI. 65 ..
. . . .. . . . . 136
. . . . . . . genesis of leather and the beginning of civilization.
Headhunter's Knot of Three Passes-PI. 66 ................
138 With the skins and pelts prehistoric man tanned or cured he
was able to clothe himself and thus hunt and forage during the
Pineapple or Gaucho Button Knot-PI. 67 ................
140
.
winter months and travel and search for game in colder climates.
Pineapple or Gaucho Button Knot-PI. 67-A .............
142
. He could make more comfortable homes in which to live, put to­
Ring Knot of Four Passes-PI. 6 8 ....................... . 144 gether better tools with which to work, manufacture boats in which
to cross streams, and assemble more efficient weapons for waging
war.
BRAIDED APPLIQUE
Leather was an important factor during the remote Stone Age
Stairstep Applique of One Thong-PI. 69 ................ . and while there is slight chance of archeologists ever discovering
146
any of the actual leather apparel and craftsmanship of primitive
Two-Thong Four-Part Applique-PI. 70 ..................
14 8
man, the uses of leather have been revealed from sculptures and
Stairstep Applique of Two Thongs-PI. 71 ............... .
150 drawings found on walls of prehistoric caves. This crude art dates
back from 20,000 years B.C. and indicates that man and his mate
Chain Applique of One Thong-PI. 72 ..................
152
.
dressed in hides and skins.
Split-Thong Applique-PI. 72 ........................... .
152
However, pieces of leather articles, including light caps, aprons
Split-Thong Applique of Two Thongs-PI. 72 ............
152 and undressed goat skins have been found in Egyptian tombs of
.
Hair Braid Applique of Two Thongs-PI. 73 ............. 2,500 B.C.
154
.
Man's weapons metamorphosed from stone to bronze and from
"S" Type Applique of One Thong-PI. 74 . . .. ...
156
. . . . . . . . . . bronze to steel. Other things changed in his life and his ways of
Applique of Three Thongs-PI. 75 ......................
15 8 living, but not leather. He tanned the hides in much the same
.
fashion as before and he utilized the leather in a similar way.
Applique of Five Thongs-PI. 76 ........................
160
.
Even in this day of the Atomic Age the preparation of leather has
Five-Thong Circular Applique-PI. 77 ...................
162
. changed but little.
How to Make a Slit-Braid Handbag-PI. 7 8 ............... 164 What is more interesting from our viewpoint is that man's in­
genuity was challenged to find means of joining pieces of leather,
Glossary of Braiding Terms .............................
169
fastening leather to other materials and shaping leather in forms
to suit his needs. He used leather thongs for a wide variety of pur­
poses. He sewed his garments together with them, he secured his
war-heads to his weapons with them, he made ropes, handles and
buttons, and he used leather thongs for hinges and leather for
buckles and brads in place of the various metal fastenings common
today.
Thus is leather associated with man in his transition from the
brute into the thinking and reasoning individual, from the ignor­
ant into the cultured, and fronl the cultured into the artistic. He
used leather more and more and at one period the things he made
represented the highest state of artistic development and his leather
handcraft was a most beautiful and attractive art.
XII
XIII
Page The Romance of
Double Gaucho Knot of Two Passes-PI. 62-A ... .. . ..
12 8
. . . . . LEATHER BRAIDING
Double Gaucho Knot of Three Passes-PI. 63 ............. .
130
Herringbone Knot-PI. 64 132 When man first realized what a useful and serviceable thing his
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . . . . . .
own skin was he got busy trying to figure out how he could turn to
Herringbone Knot-PI. 64-A .. .. . .... . . ..
134
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
practical account the skins and hides of other animals. This was the
Headhunter's Knot of Two Passes-PI. 65 ..
. . . .. . . . . 136
. . . . . . . genesis of leather and the beginning of civilization.
Headhunter's Knot of Three Passes-PI. 66 ................
138 With the skins and pelts prehistoric man tanned or cured he
was able to clothe himself and thus hunt and forage during the
Pineapple or Gaucho Button Knot-PI. 67 ................
140
.
winter months and travel and search for game in colder climates.
Pineapple or Gaucho Button Knot-PI. 67-A .............
142
. He could make more comfortable homes in which to live, put to­
Ring Knot of Four Passes-PI. 6 8 ....................... . 144 gether better tools with which to work, manufacture boats in which
to cross streams, and assemble more efficient weapons for waging
war.
BRAIDED APPLIQUE
Leather was an important factor during the remote Stone Age
Stairstep Applique of One Thong-PI. 69 ................ . and while there is slight chance of archeologists ever discovering
146
any of the actual leather apparel and craftsmanship of primitive
Two-Thong Four-Part Applique-PI. 70 ..................
14 8
man, the uses of leather have been revealed from sculptures and
Stairstep Applique of Two Thongs-PI. 71 ............... .
150 drawings found on walls of prehistoric caves. This crude art dates
back from 20,000 years B.C. and indicates that man and his mate
Chain Applique of One Thong-PI. 72 ..................
152
.
dressed in hides and skins.
Split-Thong Applique-PI. 72 ........................... .
152
However, pieces of leather articles, including light caps, aprons
Split-Thong Applique of Two Thongs-PI. 72 ............
152 and undressed goat skins have been found in Egyptian tombs of
.
Hair Braid Applique of Two Thongs-PI. 73 ............. 2,500 B.C.
154
.
Man's weapons metamorphosed from stone to bronze and from
"S" Type Applique of One Thong-PI. 74 . . .. ...
156
. . . . . . . . . . bronze to steel. Other things changed in his life and his ways of
Applique of Three Thongs-PI. 75 ......................
15 8 living, but not leather. He tanned the hides in much the same
.
fashion as before and he utilized the leather in a similar way.
Applique of Five Thongs-PI. 76 ........................
160
.
Even in this day of the Atomic Age the preparation of leather has
Five-Thong Circular Applique-PI. 77 ...................
162
. changed but little.
How to Make a Slit-Braid Handbag-PI. 7 8 ............... 164 What is more interesting from our viewpoint is that man's in­
genuity was challenged to find means of joining pieces of leather,
Glossary of Braiding Terms .............................
169
fastening leather to other materials and shaping leather in forms
to suit his needs. He used leather thongs for a wide variety of pur­
poses. He sewed his garments together with them, he secured his
war-heads to his weapons with them, he made ropes, handles and
buttons, and he used leather thongs for hinges and leather for
buckles and brads in place of the various metal fastenings common
today.
Thus is leather associated with man in his transition from the
brute into the thinking and reasoning individual, from the ignor­
ant into the cultured, and fronl the cultured into the artistic. He
used leather more and more and at one period the things he made
represented the highest state of artistic development and his leather
handcraft was a most beautiful and attractive art.
XII
XIII
Low-skin and calf in tan I keep,
The actua l tanning of leather has been traced to theB ronzeA ge,
Long months in bark-soaked water steep
which is roughly estimated from 25, 00 to 800B . C. Prior to that
it
Then with a brush of hair I scrape them
is believed that primitive man preserved his hides in a more orl esa
And on the selling counter drape them."
pliable and imputrescible condition by treating the pelts with
the grease and brains of the animal itself , much after the fashion There are many wise and pithy sayings having to do with leather .
�� � ,
in which American Indians make their buckskin. Or, as the Esk­i proverb has it, "Men cut large thon from othe men s leath ·
One ,
mos do today , early man might have used urine in tanning hi s Unemotiona l men are Said to have thIck hIdes, or they are
er."
leather . "thick.skinned", while those with stubborn ideas are "hide-bound."
It is certain that a chrome , formaldehyde or alum tannage was We still use such expressions as "I'll tan your hIde", "He's a skm­
unknown . llint" and "Give him a leather medal."
However , during the Bronze Age the lIeshy sides of the hides C� rlyle in his Sartor Resartus comes to the conclusion that the
.
.
were rubbed with salt and alum , stored in cool places lor a few old.world grazier became sick of luggmg hIS slow ox about the
days and then stretched and pulled. The fatty sides were scraped country tli l he got it bartered for corn or 011, and would take a
and limestone sand rubbed in . The skins were stretched and dried. piece of leather and thereon stamp or scratch the merefi gure of an
This method came down to the Romans who perfectedi t in pro­ ox , orp ews. He would put this in his pocket and call Itp ecunia, or
ducing theirfi ne leather known asa luta. This soft leather was said money. Here is the derivation of our wordp ecumarYJ and even to ·
to have even been used by the Roman ladies for fashioning their day in modern slang we speak of a dollar bill as a "skin." We
"beauty spots." "skin " a man in a trade and when we do hIm out of somethmg
The Greeks , aiso , were adepts in the tanning and utilization of illegally it is by use of the "skin-game."
leather . Thefi rstG reek leather worker is cited asT ychios ofB oetia , Ancient history is replete with references to leather and leather
a native of Hyle . He is credited by Homer with having made the work. Unbelievable as it might seem there were even leather can­
shield of Ajax, andP liny termed him the inventor of tanning. non l These guns , in calibers from I-pounders to 4-pounderJ� con­
In those days leather and skins were used for beds , blankets , rugs, sisting of a copper tube covered with se�eral layers of masUc and
curtains , coverings for chairs and couches. and for shoes as well as wrapped with rope or twine on top of whIch was put a coat of plas­
for many other purposes. A deerskin bed was believed to protect ter , were finally covered with leather . They were used as early as
the sleeper against snakes and priests slept on specia l skins when 1349 by theV enetians.
they wished to invoke oracles int heir dreams. There were of course leather cups , leather bottles , leather chests
The Bible contains frequent mention of leather. In Genesis and many olh� r utility� rticles of leat� er. There is a� omplete litera­
- iii 21 we find : "UntoA dam also andt o his wife did theL ord God ture on leather bookbinding and anClem leathereralt. Leather was
make coats of skins , and clothed them." It also tells that Moses in wide use-and even today there is hardly a person who does not
dyed rams' skins. have some form of leather about him-shoes, hatbands , pocket­
In Butler's Lives of the Saints he writes of St . Crispin and St . books , billfolds and such.
Crispinian working with their hands at night making shoes. St. The most important of the historical �otices on leather-from
Crispin today is the patron saint of the shoemakers , and this honor­ our viewpoint-has to do with the anCient PhoenlCians. These
able trade can boast such American examples as Noah Worcester , people invaded North Africa probably in or around the year 1600
D.D., known as the Apostle of Peace ; Roger Sherman , the patriot ; B.C. and transmitted their leathereraft to the Moors.
Henry Wilson , the Natik Cobbler , and John Greenleaf Whittier , The Moors at the beginning of the Eighth Century crossed the
theQ uakerP oet. Straits of Gibraltar and penetrated Spain . Here they inaugurated
Hans Sachs , the shoemaker poet of Nuremberg , known as the a brilliant" civilization . In Cordova , the capItal , the leather Indus­
Nightingale of the Reformation , in 1568 wrote a verse in which he try gave origin to several trades , one of which was harness-�aking.
told how he prepared his ownl eather : What leathers are more famous than Cordovan , Spamsh and
Morocco
"I dry the skins out in the air I
Removing first each clinging hair. The guadamacileros of Spain could ' not be surpas�ed for their
Then in the Escher stream I dash them wonder creations of figured leather, for unhke th� heavlI y lacquered
And thoroughly from dirt I wash them. and painted leathers of today these Spamsh arusts always subord-l
xv
XIV
Low-skin and calf in tan I keep,
The actua l tanning of leather has been traced to theB ronzeA ge,
Long months in bark-soaked water steep
which is roughly estimated from 25, 00 to 800B . C. Prior to that
it
Then with a brush of hair I scrape them
is believed that primitive man preserved his hides in a more orl esa
And on the selling counter drape them."
pliable and imputrescible condition by treating the pelts with
the grease and brains of the animal itself , much after the fashion There are many wise and pithy sayings having to do with leather .
�� � ,
in which American Indians make their buckskin. Or, as the Esk­i proverb has it, "Men cut large thon from othe men s leath ·
One ,
mos do today , early man might have used urine in tanning hi s Unemotiona l men are Said to have thIck hIdes, or they are
er."
leather . "thick.skinned", while those with stubborn ideas are "hide-bound."
It is certain that a chrome , formaldehyde or alum tannage was We still use such expressions as "I'll tan your hIde", "He's a skm­
unknown . llint" and "Give him a leather medal."
However , during the Bronze Age the lIeshy sides of the hides C� rlyle in his Sartor Resartus comes to the conclusion that the
.
.
were rubbed with salt and alum , stored in cool places lor a few old.world grazier became sick of luggmg hIS slow ox about the
days and then stretched and pulled. The fatty sides were scraped country tli l he got it bartered for corn or 011, and would take a
and limestone sand rubbed in . The skins were stretched and dried. piece of leather and thereon stamp or scratch the merefi gure of an
This method came down to the Romans who perfectedi t in pro­ ox , orp ews. He would put this in his pocket and call Itp ecunia, or
ducing theirfi ne leather known asa luta. This soft leather was said money. Here is the derivation of our wordp ecumarYJ and even to ·
to have even been used by the Roman ladies for fashioning their day in modern slang we speak of a dollar bill as a "skin." We
"beauty spots." "skin " a man in a trade and when we do hIm out of somethmg
The Greeks , aiso , were adepts in the tanning and utilization of illegally it is by use of the "skin-game."
leather . Thefi rstG reek leather worker is cited asT ychios ofB oetia , Ancient history is replete with references to leather and leather
a native of Hyle . He is credited by Homer with having made the work. Unbelievable as it might seem there were even leather can­
shield of Ajax, andP liny termed him the inventor of tanning. non l These guns , in calibers from I-pounders to 4-pounderJ� con­
In those days leather and skins were used for beds , blankets , rugs, sisting of a copper tube covered with se�eral layers of masUc and
curtains , coverings for chairs and couches. and for shoes as well as wrapped with rope or twine on top of whIch was put a coat of plas­
for many other purposes. A deerskin bed was believed to protect ter , were finally covered with leather . They were used as early as
the sleeper against snakes and priests slept on specia l skins when 1349 by theV enetians.
they wished to invoke oracles int heir dreams. There were of course leather cups , leather bottles , leather chests
The Bible contains frequent mention of leather. In Genesis and many olh� r utility� rticles of leat� er. There is a� omplete litera­
- iii 21 we find : "UntoA dam also andt o his wife did theL ord God ture on leather bookbinding and anClem leathereralt. Leather was
make coats of skins , and clothed them." It also tells that Moses in wide use-and even today there is hardly a person who does not
dyed rams' skins. have some form of leather about him-shoes, hatbands , pocket­
In Butler's Lives of the Saints he writes of St . Crispin and St . books , billfolds and such.
Crispinian working with their hands at night making shoes. St. The most important of the historical �otices on leather-from
Crispin today is the patron saint of the shoemakers , and this honor­ our viewpoint-has to do with the anCient PhoenlCians. These
able trade can boast such American examples as Noah Worcester , people invaded North Africa probably in or around the year 1600
D.D., known as the Apostle of Peace ; Roger Sherman , the patriot ; B.C. and transmitted their leathereraft to the Moors.
Henry Wilson , the Natik Cobbler , and John Greenleaf Whittier , The Moors at the beginning of the Eighth Century crossed the
theQ uakerP oet. Straits of Gibraltar and penetrated Spain . Here they inaugurated
Hans Sachs , the shoemaker poet of Nuremberg , known as the a brilliant" civilization . In Cordova , the capItal , the leather Indus­
Nightingale of the Reformation , in 1568 wrote a verse in which he try gave origin to several trades , one of which was harness-�aking.
told how he prepared his ownl eather : What leathers are more famous than Cordovan , Spamsh and
Morocco
"I dry the skins out in the air I
Removing first each clinging hair. The guadamacileros of Spain could ' not be surpas�ed for their
Then in the Escher stream I dash them wonder creations of figured leather, for unhke th� heavlI y lacquered
And thoroughly from dirt I wash them. and painted leathers of today these Spamsh arusts always subord-l
xv
XIV
•
nated their decorations to the leather itself. The leather never lost unique means of using leather buttons and other leather fastenings
character. This art originated in the city of Ghadames in the has been supplanted by all manner of metal devices.
Sahara, where the ghadamesian leather came from. In this book the broad term of "braiding" is used throughout
From the Ninth to the 18th centuries Europe had been recon­ much after the manner in which it is used by the Spanish trenzador
quered and the Arabs expelled. But they left behind them not only and the craftsmen of Mexico and Latin America in general. Actu­
their leather art, which included elaborate braiding and thong ally braiding means to weave together, to plait, and usually is asso­
work, but their techniques for executing these things. ciated with the so-called flat braid, or the three·t hong "hair braid,"
So in 1520w hen Hernando Cortes introduced the first horses into or the simple braids used in making belts.
America, he brought, too, men well versed in the understanding and For our purpose it will mean the weaving of leather knots, the
teaching of leatherwork and the art of braiding. making of buttons, the working of edge lacing on leather articles,
It is not difficult from that point to trace the introduction of the covering of belt buckles, the appliqued work on leather whIch
fancy braidwork into the United States. The Mexican vaqueros is here introduced to the American public for the first time, and
who rode the dusty trails of the plains and brought up their cattle the beautiful one-thong weave which the Spanish conquistadores
from below the Rio Grande and those of the pre-gold rush cattle used on their sword belts, as well as many variations of [he com­
drives of California during the last century were expert monly known round and flat braids.
trenzadores,
or braiders. They were masters of leather hraiding and leather There still are a few old time braiders in the West and South­
decoration. Some were charros to whom the horse and his decora­ west. Most of these guard their secrets well and like those who have
tion or equipage was the primary object of life. gone before them, these secrets will be passed on to a very few, if
These Mexicans inspired our own cowboys to take pride in their any, and in many cases will die with the craftsmen. Through all the
gear and in those times a hraided bridle with fancy woven knots ages leathercraft has been an esoteric art, usually handed down
scattered along the reins was a beautiful thing to behold. Not to from father to son.
speak of the hatbands, belts, pistol holsters, saddles, quirts and Leather braidwork has many forms and many applications. You
other gear and appurtenances. don't make things just to look at and admire, but use. You com­
to
. The Spanish craft of leather braiding and decoration spread, too. bine beauty with utility. This work can be used in making handles
It would be interesting to an anthropologist or archeologist to trace, for suitcases, brief cases and other leather articles. It adapts itself
for example, the Spanish woven knot, built upon the sailor's well­ to use on and associated with plain or carved or tooled leather work,
known turk's-head knot. I have seen woven finger rings of split supplementing and complementing such examples of craftsmanship.
bamboo made by the Igorotes of the Philippines which are exactly It can be used in covering the handles of canes, umbrellas and
like those knots on Spanish and Arabian whip and knife handles. rr.."r<.:p p1Tl:-,l",,�,prl ;n the making of quirts. riding
tnnh: 1t,r;: rof
The Argentine gaucho makes the same type of woven knot as does crops, belts and wristwatch straps, dog collars and leashes, hack­
the native Indian of Mexico. The entire course of Spanish civiliza­ amores, bridles and reins, leather buttons, buckle coverings and for
tion could well be traced through this intricate and decorative knot. many, many other practical things.
The term "lost art" might be applied to leather braiding. How­
The rewards of a small amount of work are ample and highly
ever, it is a loose and generic term used in connection with most
gratifying. There is another thing that should not be overlooked:
handcraft today. The greater part of our handcraft should be desig­
the practicability of this handcraft for those persons who are con­
nated a developed art. continually see where improvements
as 'We valescing or who are partially disabled or have some permanent
have been made in ancient worksmanship by the use of modern
injury which confni e them to their beds or wheelchairs. The few
scientific methods and by machine operation and cultivated design.
tools necessary, the small amount of space in which the work can
Just as the development of the bow and arrow in archery makes
be done and the cleanliness with whicll it can be executed, make
these modern implements far superior to those of the ancients,
it uniquely adaptable in such cases. Its value in occupational and
•
especially the savages, so is textile weaving and many other arts and recreational therapy cannot be ignored.
crafts as far advanced.
While this book is primarily for those interested in leathercrah,
It might he better to say that leather braiding is an almost for­
the methods of braiding in nearly all cases are applicable to strands
gotten and highly neglected art. It is not necessary now to join
of many other materials-silk, cotton, plastic, rawhide, catgut or
things with leather thongs. Sewing with thread and fastening with
horsehair_
metal brads are the methods used. The attractive and sometimes
Especial care has been exercised in giving detailed step-by-step
XVI
XVII