Leather and Leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York PDF
Preview Leather and Leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York
The Archaeology of York Volume 17: The Small Finds General Editor R.A. Hall © York Archaeological Trust for Excavation and Research 2003 Published by Council for British Archaeology Bowes Morrell House 111 Walmgate York YO1 9WA The Archaeology of York Vol.17: The Small Finds Fasc.16: Craft, Industry and Everyday Life: Leather and Leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York 338.4’7685’0942843’0902 First published in print format 2003 ISBN 1 902771 36 2 ISBN 978-1 874454 50 2 (e-book) Printed by Cover design: L. Collett Charlesworth Cover photography: M. Andrews Huddersfield W. Yorkshire Craft, Industry and Everyday Life: Leather and Leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York By Quita Mould, Ian Carlisle and Esther Cameron Published for York Archaeological Trust by the 2003 Council for British Archaeology Contents General Introduction.....................................................................................................................................................3185 Introduction to the sites and their dating by R.A. Hall, N.F. Pearson and R. Finlayson........................................3187 The nature of the assemblages.....................................................................................................................................3203 Conservation of the Leatherwork by J.A. Spriggs .....................................................................................................3213 Craft and Industry .........................................................................................................................................................3222 The surviving evidence...........................................................................................................................................3222 The leatherworking trades................................................................................................................................3222 Current documentary knowledge by Lisa Liddy............................................................................................3222 The street-name evidence by Gillian Fellows-Jensen.......................................................................................3226 The physical evidence........................................................................................................................................3227 Environmental evidence by Allan Hall and Harry Kenward..........................................................................3230 The osteological evidence by T.P. O’Connor....................................................................................................3231 The leatherworking tools recovered by Patrick Ottaway and Carole A. Morris..........................................3235 The waste leather with a contribution by Ailsa Mainman...............................................................................3245 The craft of the leatherworker................................................................................................................................3256 The shoe-maker...................................................................................................................................................3256 Shoe construction with a contribution by Penelope Walton Rogers.................................................................3256 The sheath- and scabbard-maker.....................................................................................................................3261 Decorative techniques employed on leather .................................................................................................3262 Teeth marks..........................................................................................................................................................3264 Types of leather used.........................................................................................................................................3265 Conclusion.................................................................................................................................................................3267 Everyday Life..................................................................................................................................................................3268 Introduction...............................................................................................................................................................3268 Shoes...........................................................................................................................................................................3268 Constructions ......................................................................................................................................................3268 Anglo-Scandinavian styles ...............................................................................................................................3274 Medieval styles ...................................................................................................................................................3312 Sizes ......................................................................................................................................................................3336 Decoration with a contribution by Penelope Walton Rogers.............................................................................3340 Refurbishment and repair.................................................................................................................................3346 Foot pathologies..................................................................................................................................................3351 Sheaths and scabbards with a contribution by John A. Goodall............................................................................3354 Other leather objects................................................................................................................................................3392 Wealth and status reflected in the leather from York.........................................................................................3415 The Wider Picture ..........................................................................................................................................................3418 Anglo-Scandinavian and medieval leather found at York................................................................................3418 Comparable assemblages from elsewhere in Britain.........................................................................................3426 Possible cultural influences....................................................................................................................................3428 International relations by Carol van Driel-Murray ...............................................................................................3431 The significance of the York assemblage by R.A. Hall........................................................................................3436 Catalogue.........................................................................................................................................................................3439 Appendix: Quantifications of shoes of each style ....................................................................................................3533 List of Figures 1559 Plan showing position of (1) 16–22 Coppergate; (2) area of Watching Brief, zones 1–7; (3) 22 Piccadilly; (4) St Mary, Castlegate; (5) All Saints, Pavement...........................................................3188 1560 Plans of the site at 16–22 Coppergate showing the area of deposits excavated for Periods 2–5.....3192–3 1561 Plans of the site at 16–22 Coppergate showing the area of deposits excavated for Period 6...........3194–5 1562 Plan showing the location of excavations, and building recording in the Bedern area........................3200 1563 Recording leather before conservation ..........................................................................................................3214 1564 The freeze-drier in use with leather ...............................................................................................................3216 1565 Conservator in the process of reconstructing a shoe...................................................................................3217 1566 Scabbard 15661: (a) before conservation; (b) during conservation (gap filling); (c) during conservation (painting gap-filled sections)...................................................................................................3218 1567 Reconstructed leather footwear.......................................................................................................................3219 1568 Shoe uppers which received different conservation treatments: (a) Pliantine (15880–1); (b) Bavon (15498 and 15509); (c) freeze-drying (15507 and 15510)...........................................................3220 1569 Untanned calfskin 15823 ..................................................................................................................................3220 1570 Plan of York showing streets and parishes associated with leatherworking ..........................................3225 1571 Possible stretcher frame from 6–8 Pavement................................................................................................3228 1572 Currier’s knives from 16–22 Coppergate and slicker from Bedern Foundry..........................................3236 1573 Double-armed leather creasers from Anglo-Scandinavian contexts at Coppergate..............................3237 1574 Awls from Anglo-Scandinavian contexts at Coppergate............................................................................3237 1575 Awls from medieval contexts at Coppergate and Bedern..........................................................................3238 1576 Iron shears from Anglo-Scandinavian contexts at Coppergate.................................................................3239 1577 Iron shears from medieval contexts at Coppergate and Bedern ...............................................................3240 1578 Map of Britain and Ireland showing the main sites referred to in the text..............................................3241 1579 Map of northern Europe showing the main sites referred to in the text..................................................3242 1580 Willow last from Coppergate for shoe- or patten-making..........................................................................3244 1581 Primary, secondary and tertiary waste from 16–22 Coppergate...............................................................3245 1582 Distribution of primary waste from 16–22 Coppergate: Period 4B ..........................................................3248 1583 Distribution of secondary waste from 16–22 Coppergate: Period 4B.......................................................3249 1584 Distribution of tertiary waste from 16–22 Coppergate: Period 4B............................................................3250 1585 Distribution of primary waste from 16–22 Coppergate: Period 5B ..........................................................3251 1586 Distribution of secondary waste from 16–22 Coppergate: Period 5B.......................................................3252 1587 Distribution of tertiary waste from 16–22 Coppergate: Period 5B............................................................3253 1588 Group of flesh shavings and primary waste.................................................................................................3254 1589 Seams used in leatherworking ........................................................................................................................3257 1590 The stitch most commonly used in shoe and strap construction ..............................................................3259 1591 Leather secondary waste: sf18099 with a single bite mark and sf17546 with multiple bite marks, both from 16–22 Coppergate..............................................................................................................3264 1592 Diagram of shoe constructions found............................................................................................................3269 1593 Sole measurements taken.................................................................................................................................3272 1594 Sole types.............................................................................................................................................................3273 1595 Diagram showing the range of shoe styles represented by the leather shoe components found at York...........................................................................................................................................facing 3274 1596 Stitch conventions used in illustrations.........................................................................................................3275 1597 Diagrams to explain terminology used to describe shoe parts: (a) shoe soles; (b) shoe uppers of principally one-piece construction; (c) shoe uppers with separate vamp and quarters; (d) terms used to describe shoe vamps and quarters..............................................................................3276–7 1598 15357, shoe Style 1, made from a single piece of leather............................................................................3278 1599 15354, shoe Style 1, made from a single piece of leather............................................................................3279 1600 15354, shoe Style 1, after reconstruction........................................................................................................3279 1601 15353, shoe Style 1, made from a single piece of leather............................................................................3280 1602 15355, shoe Style 1, made from a single piece of leather............................................................................3281 1603 Map of Europe showing places mentioned in the discussion of shoes made of a single piece of leather...................................................................................................................................................3282 1604 15371, shoe Style 2, after reconstruction........................................................................................................3282 1605 15372, shoe Style 2, construction type 1.........................................................................................................3283 1606 15372, shoe Style 2, after reconstruction........................................................................................................3283 1607 15359, shoe Style 2, with wide top band........................................................................................................3284 1608 15358, shoe Style 2, with upper made in two halves...................................................................................3284 1609 15374, shoe Style 2, with insert and narrow top band.................................................................................3285 1610 15365, shoe Style 2, with narrow top band....................................................................................................3285 1611 15367, shoe Style 2 .............................................................................................................................................3286 1612 15361, shoe Style 2.............................................................................................................................................3286 1613 Map of Europe showing places where low-cut slip-on shoes with a seam at centre back have been found.................................................................................................................................................3287 1614 15381, shoe Style 3b1 after reconstruction, with later slits to hold a drawstring ...................................3289 1615 15395, shoe Style 3b1, with the heel area of the uppers supported internally by a heel stiffener.......3290 1616 15385, shoe Style 3b1.........................................................................................................................................3291 1617 15376, shoe Style 3a1.........................................................................................................................................3292 1618 15382, shoe Style 3b1, modified with a single slash at the throat..............................................................3292 1619 15397, shoe Style 3b1, modified with a double slash at the throat............................................................3293 1620 15387, shoe Style 3b1, with a slash across the instep...................................................................................3293 1621 15390, shoe Style 3b1, with a slash across the instep...................................................................................3293 1622 15386, shoe Style 3b1, with a small rectangular tongue at the centre of the throat................................3294 1623 15398, shoe Style 3a2, with widely spaced slots around the upper to hold the drawstring in place.................................................................................................................................................................3295 1624 15404, shoe Style 3b2, with widely spaced slots around the upper to hold the drawstring in place.................................................................................................................................................................3296 1625 15399, shoe Style 3a2, with fine and closely spaced drawstring slots......................................................3297 1626 15408, top edge of upper with fine drawstring slots...................................................................................3297 1627 15413, shoe Style 3b3, with separate drawstring sewn to the centre of the throat of the upper..........3298 1628 15413 after reconstruction ................................................................................................................................3298 1629 15414, shoe Style 3b3, with separate drawstring sewn to the centre of the throat of the upper..........3299 1630 15419, variant Style 3b4, with a rectangular insert between the quarter and the vamp wing at the side seam..................................................................................................................................................3299 1631 15418, shoe Style 3a4, with crescent-shaped insert sewn to the throat ....................................................3300 1632 15423, shoe Style 3b4, with crescent-shaped insert sewn to the throat....................................................3301 1633 15424, shoe Style 3b5, with a peak at the centre of the throat....................................................................3301 1634 15425, shoe Style 3b5, with a peak at the centre of the throat....................................................................3302 1635 15429, shoe Style 4a1, with a single wide flap with a toggle and loop fastening...................................3303 1636 15430, shoe Style 4a1, with a single wide flap with a toggle and loop fastening...................................3304 1637 15880, shoe Style 4a2, fastened with two toggles on a single flap ............................................................3305 1638 15881, shoe Style 4a2, fastened with two toggles on a single flap ............................................................3306 1639 15439, shoe Style 4a3, fastened with a double flap and toggles................................................................3306 1640 15438, shoe Style 4a3, fastened with a double flap and toggles................................................................3306 1641 15436, shoe Style 4a3, fastened with a double flap and toggles................................................................3307 1642 Map of Europe showing places where one-piece ankle-shoes fastened with flaps and toggles have been found...................................................................................................................................3308 1643 15442, shoe Style 4a4, fastened with double top band flap and toggles..................................................3308 1644 15447, shoe Style 4a4, fastened with double top band flap and toggles..................................................3309 1645 15444, shoe Style 4a4, with either single or double top band flap and toggles ......................................3310 1646 15847, shoe Style 5, one-piece upper with flap and toggle fastening.......................................................3311 1647 15453, remains of another Anglo-Scandinavian style shoe........................................................................3312 1648 15454, shoe Style 6, fastening at the front with integral laces....................................................................3313 1649 15459, shoe Style 7a, with integral front flaps ..............................................................................................3315 1650 15460, shoe Style 7a, with integral front flaps and top band decorated with embroidery...................3316 1651 15468, shoe Style 7b1, with one front flap integral and the other an insert stitched to the quarter....3317 1652 15479, shoe Style 7c1, with one front flap integral and the other an insert stitched to a projection on top of the vamp wing...............................................................................................................3318 1653 15485, shoe Style 7b2, with drawstring passing through multiple slots..................................................3320 1654 15487, shoe Style 7b/c3, with drawstring passing though vertical thronged loops..............................3321 1655 15489, Style 7c3, with drawstring passing though vertical thronged loops............................................3322 1656 15490, shoe Style 7b/c3, with drawstring passing though vertical thronged loops..............................3323 1657 15495, Style 8a, a front toggle-fastened ankle-shoe .....................................................................................3324 1658 15496, Style 8b, a front toggle-fastened boot.................................................................................................3324 1659 15497, Style 8c, a front toggle- and lace-fastened boot................................................................................3325 1660 Two views of reconstructed boot 15497.........................................................................................................3326 1661 15498, Style 8d, a front-lacing one-piece ankle-boot ...................................................................................3327 1662 15833, Style 8e, a one-piece ankle-boot fastening at the front with a buckle and strap........................3228 1663 15500, Style 9a, a boot of one-piece construction lacing at the side..........................................................3329 1664 15501, Style 9b, a shoe of two-piece construction lacing at the side.........................................................3330 1665 15504, Style 9b, a boot of two-piece construction lacing at the side .........................................................3331 1666 15505, Style 10, a shoe of two-piece construction lacing at the front........................................................3332 1667 15511, Style 11-, with moss stuffing in the toe..............................................................................................3333 1668 15507, Style 11a, a front latchet-fastened shoe..............................................................................................3334 1669 15508, Style 11a, a front latchet-fastened shoe..............................................................................................3334 1670 15509, Style 11b, a front buckle- and strap-fastened shoe..........................................................................3335 1671 Diagram showing numbers of shoes of Styles 2, 3, 4 and 7 in sizes worn by children, males and females.........................................................................................................................................................3339 1672 Tooled decoration on shoe sole heel extensions...........................................................................................3341 1673 Detail of 15524, showing single line of tunnel stitching for a vamp stripe..............................................3342 1674 Two examples of three rows of stitching between scored lines for a vamp strip...................................3342 1675 Top band 15540, with double row of embroidery between scored lines..................................................3343 1676 Top band 15543, with triple row of embroidery between scored lines ....................................................3344 1677 Top band 15410, with rows of slits for decorative thonging......................................................................3344 1678 Detail of 15457, Style 7a1, with lightly scraped decoration........................................................................3345 1679 Detail of 15483, Style 7c1, with scraped decoration.....................................................................................3346 1680 15426, with the vamp slashed close to the lateral joint to relieve pressure perhaps from hammer toe.........................................................................................................................................................3352 1681 Sole of 15487 showing hole worn through by the great toe as a result of hallus rigidus........................3352 1682 Distribution of sheaths at 16–22 Coppergate in Period 4B.........................................................................3356 1683 Distribution of sheaths at 16–22 Coppergate in Period 5B.........................................................................3357 1684 Distribution of scabbards at 16–22 Coppergate in Period 4B.....................................................................3358 1685 Distribution of scabbards at 16–22 Coppergate in Period 5B.....................................................................3359 1686 Three unprovenanced scabbard leathers from York...............................................................................3360–1 1687 Scabbards of the 10th and 11th century from 16–22 Coppergate..............................................................3362 1688 Diagram to explain what a strap-slide was and showing four types of strap-slides for scabbards ...3363 1689 Detail of scabbard 15545 showing outline for strap-slide and circular impression...............................3366 1690 Post-Conquest scabbard 15601 from 16–22 Coppergate.............................................................................3366 1691 Belts and straps used for the suspension of scabbards in the medieval period .....................................3368 1692 Sheaths of knives and seaxes from Anglo-Scandinavian York: Type A1 .................................................3370 1693 Front and back view of knife sheath 15890, of Anglo-Scandinavian Type A1........................................3371 1694 Sheaths of knives and seaxes from Anglo-Scandinavian York: Type A2 .................................................3372 1695 Front and back view of sheath 15617 of Type B1.........................................................................................3373 1696 Detail of sheath 15617 showing seam ............................................................................................................3373 1697 Sheaths of knives and seaxes from Anglo-Scandinavian York: Type B1..............................................3374–5
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