L.A.'s legendary restaurants: celebrating the famous places where Hollywood ate, drank, and played

270 Pages·2016·31.688 MB·English

by  Geary, George

Copyright ©2016 by George Geary
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ISBN-13 978-1-59580-089-3
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Geary, George, author.
Title: L.A.’s legendary restaurants : celebrating the famous places where Hollywood ate, drank, and played / by George
Geary.
Description: Solana Beach, CA : Santa Monica Press LLC, [2016]
Identifiers: LCCN 2016006759 (print) | LCCN 2016021904 (ebook) | ISBN 9781595800893 (hardcover) | ISBN
9781595807991 (PDF ebook) | ISBN 9781595808004 (Kindle) | ISBN 9781595808011 ( Epub)
Subjects: LCSH: Los Angeles’ legendary restaurants | Cooking--California--Los Angeles. | Restaurants--California--
Los Angeles. | Motion picture actors and actresses--Homes and haunts--California--Los Angeles--History--
20th century. | LCGFT: Cookbooks.
Classification: LCC TX714 .G43 2016 (print) | LCC TX714 (ebook) | DDC 641.59794/94--dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016006759
Cover and interior design and production by Future Studio
Cover photo: The Brown Derby, 1927.
Back cover photo: C. C. Brown’s on Hollywood Boulevard, circa 1960s.
Dedication
To Mom, who became a carhop—the second-hardest job
besides being a mother—at Marty’s Drive-In in Santa Monica at
age thirteen.
Also, to my grand-
mother, Gammie, and Aunt
Bea, who both worked at
Van de Kamp’s, and my
grandfather, Coley, who, in
1946, was one of the best
executive chefs in Las Ve-
gas when it was just a spot
in the Nevada desert.
Lastly, to every person
who has worked as a wait-
er, chef, or any other job in
the food industry. Everyone
should, at one time or an-
other; it humbles you, and
you’ll tip better afterward.
Contents
Recipes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
FoRewoRd.by.baRbaRa.FaiRchild. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
intRoduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
C. C. Brown’s ....................................... 15
Van de Kamp’s Holland Dutch Bakery ................... 21
Musso & Frank Grill ................................. 27
Cocoanut Grove at the Ambassador Hotel ............... 35
Tam O’Shanter Inn .................................. 45
Formosa Café ....................................... 53
The Brown Derby ................................... 59
Pig ’n Whistle .......................................69
Taix French Restaurant ............................... 75
Bullocks Wilshire Tea Room .......................... 81
Zebra Room at the Town House of Lafayette Park ......... 91
Tick Tock Tea Room ................................. 97
Perino’s ........................................... 103
Schwab’s Pharmacy ..................................111
Don the Beachcomber ...............................117
Clifton’s Brookdale Cafeteria ......................... 127
Chasen’s .......................................... 135
Cock ’n Bull ....................................... 143
Florentine Gardens ................................. 149
Romanoff’s ........................................ 153
Hollywood Palladium ............................... 159
Ciro’s ............................................. 165
Tiny Naylor’s ...................................... 169
Scandia ........................................... 173
Miceli’s ........................................... 181
Hamburger Hamlet ................................. 185
Ben Frank’s ....................................... 193
Lawry’s California Center ............................ 197
L’Escoffier at the Beverly Hilton ...................... 201
Trader Vic’s at the Beverly Hilton .....................205
La Scala ............................................211
Cyrano ........................................... 215
Chez Jay .......................................... 219
Dan Tana’s ........................................ 223
Ma Maison ........................................ 227
Carlos ’n Charlie’s .................................. 235
L’Ermitage ........................................239
Hamptons ........................................243
L’Orangerie ....................................... 247
Le Dome .......................................... 251
Michael’s ......................................... 257
Spago Sunset ...................................... 261
72 Market Street Oyster Bar & Grill .................... 267
acknowledgments. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270
photo.cRedits. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271
Recipes
WHILE I WAS PUTTING THIS BOOK TOGETHER, ONE BIG QUESTION I WAS OFTEN ASKED WAS WHERE I GOT THE REC-
IPES. Many of them came from the Los Angeles Times food section archives, which go as far back as the
1920s. Old books from the restaurants themselves were another source. Many food magazines also had
columns that highlighted recipes from the establishments. I even watched old television programs fea-
turing the restaurants’ chefs, and took down notes to reconstruct the recipes.
Many of the restaurants happily sent me their recipes. There were, however, a few places that
couldn’t provide theirs, and I had to improvise. One of these recipes was C. C. Brown’s Hot Fudge Sauce,
which is manufactured and owned by Lawry’s Restaurants. I’ve indulged in the gooey topping both in the
1970s and today at Lawry’s The Prime Rib, and I’ve also purchased a jar of the sauce. All three versions
tasted different to me. Was it because I wasn’t eating it out of a silver goblet at C. C. Brown’s? Maybe. In
any case, I created my own milk chocolate sauce recipe for this book, trying my best to get as close to the
original as possible.
For very popular dishes that I couldn’t obtain recipes for, I chose not to include them in the book—
such as Chasen’s chili. In my research, I found about seven versions of the restaurant’s famous spicy
chili. Since I’ve never eaten it myself (or had it flown to me on a movie set), I had no reference for
choosing the most authentic version. After I obtained the recipes for each of the eateries, I tested each
one using the exact same ingredients if at all possible. For some of the recipes—such as those including
MSG—I made substitutions. I now invite you to try these recipes yourself and taste the same delectable
dishes once enjoyed by the stars of this bygone era.
Chef Keith Hull in the kitchen at Miceli’s.
6. l .a’s.legendaRy.RestauRants
DRINKS
Mai Tai (Formosa) ..........................................................56
The Mike Romanoff (Romanoff’s) ........................................... 157
Moscow Mule (Cock ’n Bull) ................................................ 147
Navy Grog (Don the Beachcomber) .......................................... 123
Spanish Martini (Carlos ’n Charlie’s) ......................................... 237
William’s Little Italy (Michael’s) .............................................259
The Zombie (Don the Beachcomber) ......................................... 125
APPETIZERS
Ceviche (72 Market Street Oyster Bar and Grill) ................................269
Crab Crepes Bengal (Trader Vic’s) ...........................................209
Crabmeat Cocktail (Ciro’s) ..................................................166
Lobster Mousse (L’Ermitage) ...............................................240
Pake Noodles (Trader Vic’s) .................................................208
Spicy Tuna Dip (Carlos ’n Charlie’s) .......................................... 237
SOUPS, SALADS, & SANDWICHES
Cantonese Chicken Salad (Bullocks Wilshire Tea Room) .........................84
Chicken Salad (Ma Maison) .................................................230
Chicken Salad Kon-Tiki (Scandia) ........................................... 175
Chopped Salad (Le Dome) .................................................. 255
Cobb Salad (Brown Derby) ..................................................62
Cold Cucumber Mint Soup (Scandia) ......................................... 175
Cold Vichyssoise (Cyrano) .................................................. 217
Creamy Tomato Soup (Zebra Room at the Town House of Lafayette Park) ............95
Gazpacho with Sour Cream and Dill (Hamptons) ...............................245
Lentil Soup with Roasted Pork (Pig ’n Whistle) ................................. 71
Leon Chopped Salad (La Scala) .............................................. 213
Maude Salad (Chasen’s) ....................................................140
Onion Soup Fondue (Hamburger Hamlet) .................................... 188
Patty Melt (Tiny Naylor’s) ................................................... 170
Spicy Corn Chowder (72 Market Street Oyster Bar and Grill) .....................269
The Town House Special (Zebra Room at the Town House of Lafayette Park) .........95
DRESSINGS
1976 House Dressing (Taix) .................................................. 79
Caesar Dressing (Scandia) .................................................. 177
Curry Dressing (Scandia) ................................................... 176
French Dressing (Brown Derby) ..............................................62
French Dressing (Scandia) ................................................. 177
Leon Dressing (La Scala) ................................................... 213
Mustard Mayonnaise Dressing (Bullocks Wilshire Tea Room) .....................84
Thousand Island Dressing (Tam O’Shanter) ....................................49
Vinaigrette Dressing (Scandia) .............................................. 176
Recipes 7
BREADS
Buttermilk Biscuits (Clifton’s) .............................................. 130
Garlic Butter Cheese Bread Loaves (Miceli’s) .................................. 183
Popovers (Bullocks Wilshire Tea Room) .......................................86
Pumpernickel Toasts (Perino’s) .............................................106
Roasted Garlic Bread (Florentine Gardens) ....................................151
Sour Cream Biscuits (Brown Derby) .......................................... 67
ENTRÉES
Beef Short Ribs with Brown Gravy (Cocoanut Grove) ............................42
The Best Meatballs (Florentine Gardens) ..................................... 150
Braised Short Ribs (Musso & Frank Grill) ...................................... 32
Chicken Piccata (Dan Tana’s) ............................................... 225
Chicken Roulade (Ma Maison) .............................................. 231
Chicken with Garlic (Spago Sunset) ..........................................264
Coq Au Vin (Taix) .......................................................... 78
Fillet of Sea Bass (Taix) ...................................................... 79
Fillet of Sole in White Wine with Mushrooms (Musso & Frank Grill) ...............30
French Toast Princess Anne (Ben Frank’s) .................................... 195
Goat Cheese Pizza (Spago Sunset) ............................................263
Grilled Chicken with Tarragon Butter (Michael’s) ..............................259
Hobo Steak (Chasen’s) ..................................................... 139
Indonesian Rack of Lamb (Trader Vic’s) ......................................208
Lamb Shanks (Musso & Frank Grill) .......................................... 32
Meat Loaf (72 Market Street Oyster Bar and Grill) ..............................268
Mexican Lasagna (Lawry’s California Center) .................................. 198
Paprika Chicken (Brown Derby) ..............................................65
Party Brisket (Hamburger Hamlet) ........................................... 188
Quiche à la Ma Maison (Ma Maison) ..........................................229
Roasted Tenderloin of Pork (Don the Beachcomber) .............................121
Roasted Wild Goose with Apricot Stuffing (Le Dome) ........................... 253
Spaghetti Bolognese (Perino’s) .............................................. 107
Steamed Chicken and Vegetables with Wine Sauce (L’Orangerie) .................249
Virginia Baked Ham with Cherry Sauce (Hollywood Palladium) ................... 162
Welsh Rarebit (Cock ’n Bull) ................................................146
Whitefish Italienne (Perino’s) ...............................................108
SAUCES
Brisket Broth (Hamburger Hamlet) .......................................... 189
Brown Gravy (Cocoanut Grove) ...............................................42
Cherry Sauce (Hollywood Palladium) ......................................... 163
Pungent Sauce (Hamburger Hamlet) ......................................... 189
Salsa (Ma Maison) ......................................................... 233
8. l .a .’s.legendaRy.RestauRants
Sauce Italienne (Perino’s) ..................................................108
Tomato Sauce (L’Ermitage) ................................................. 241
White Wine Sauce (Musso & Frank Grill) ......................................30
Wine Sauce (L’Orangerie) ..................................................249
SIDE DISHES
Apricot Stuffing (Le Dome) ................................................. 255
Black Bean Salad (Lawry’s California Center) ..................................199
Carrot Soufflé (Chasen’s) ................................................... 141
Coleslaw with Peanuts (Tam O’Shanter) .......................................48
Creamed Corn (Lawry’s California Center) ....................................199
German Red Potato Salad (Hamptons) ........................................244
La Jolla Potatoes (Chez Jay) ................................................. 221
Zucchini Monterey (Clifton’s) ............................................... 130
DESSERTS
1909 Brownie Sundae (C. C. Brown’s) ......................................... 18
Bread Pudding (Cocoanut Grove) .............................................43
Cappuccino Soufflé (L’Escoffier) ............................................203
Charlie’s Freeze (Carlos ’n Charlie’s) ......................................... 237
Chocolate Malt (Tiny Naylor’s) ...............................................171
Chocolate Mousse (L’Ermitage) ............................................. 241
Coconut Cream Pie (Bullocks Wilshire Tea Room) ............................... 87
Cream Cheese Frosting (Clifton’s) ........................................... 133
Cream Cheese Icing (Clifton’s) .............................................. 132
Custard Lulu (Hamburger Hamlet) ........................................... 191
Date Nut Loaf (Van de Kamp’s) ............................................... 25
Heavenly Lemon Pie (Bullocks Wilshire Tea Room) .............................86
Holiday Fudge Brownies (Schwab’s Pharmacy) ................................. 114
Holiday Hot Fudge Brownie Sundae (Schwab’s Pharmacy) ....................... 114
Hot Fudge Sauce (Schwab’s Pharmacy) ........................................115
Macadamia Tart (Spago Sunset) .............................................265
Marshmallow Cream (C. C. Brown’s) .......................................... 18
Milk Chocolate Sauce (C. C. Brown’s) .......................................... 19
Pineapple Sheet Cake (Tick Tock Tea Room) ....................................99
Pumpkin Cake with Cream Cheese Frosting (Clifton’s) .......................... 133
Rice Custard (Clifton’s) .....................................................131
Strawberries Romanoff (Romanoff’s) ........................................ 156
Vanilla Sauce (L’Ermitage) .................................................. 241
Zucchini Cake (Clifton’s) ................................................... 132
Recipes 9
Foreword by Barbara Fairchild
OUR FAMILY MOVED FROM NEW YORK TO LOS ANGELES WHEN I WAS A KID. My dad was a character actor, and we
went where the work was. At the risk of dating myself—and this definitely will—there were great roles to
be had for him on TV shows like Perry Mason, Dr. Kildare, Bewitched, The Twilight Zone, and many, many
others. In the meantime, my mom also got a job, and my sisters and I went off to school, lost the New
Yawk accent, and eased happily into the sunny rhythm of Southern California.
Later on, I also eased into my teen years, including the important milestone of “Sweet Sixteen.” I
must have been a budding foodie even then, because to mark the occasion, the farthest thing from my
mind was having a big fancy party with a gang of my friends. No, I knew exactly what I wanted to do: go
to dinner with my dad and my best friend at Don the Beachcomber, already a Hollywood landmark that
somehow seemed both glamorous and decadent. Rumor had it that there was also a rainstorm inside
every so often. I just had to check it out.
So began my exploration of the “grown-ups’”
L.A. restaurant scene, and I haven’t looked back.
Still an enthusiastic restaurant-goer, I’m also
lucky enough to have been to some of the classic
spots—both long gone and still open—covered so
affectionately here in George Geary’s wonderful
book. What a terrific (and thorough) job of re-
search he has done! It is all too easy to lose track of
time poring over these interesting old menus, not
to mention the amazing photos—Marilyn Mon-
roe and Lucille Ball at Ciro’s! Jimmy Stewart at
Chasen’s! Elizabeth Taylor at Romanoff’s! Orson
Welles at Ma Maison (always)! Who can resist?
But the biggest bonus this book delivers is
the recipes. There is everything here from kitsch
to classic, all tested (George is a perfectionist,
trust me) and all delicious. So many of these rec-
ipes are timeless, too. For a summer barbecue or
retro cocktail party, I can see myself mixing up a
batch of Zombies or some Navy Grog from (where
else?) Don the Beachcomber. Or, for breakfast
or brunch, bringing to the table a basket of warm
popovers from the beloved Bullocks Wilshire Tea
Room. For lunch, the Brown Derby’s Cobb Salad
can’t be beat—and it lives on in hundreds of im-
itations (and iterations) today. And if you don’t
think that I will make a lot of C. C. Brown’s cele-
brated hot fudge sauce, then you don’t know just
10. l .a’s.legendaRy.RestauRants
how much of a chocoholic I am.
Those iconic spots are only memories now, but I’m happy to report that a number of places endure
and thrive, among them the Tam O’Shanter, Miceli’s, Musso and Frank’s, Taix, and Clifton’s Cafeteria,
which has been revamped and reborn within one of our hottest restaurant neighborhoods these days,
downtown L.A. And the cultural glitterati—from the movie biz and beyond—still wheel and deal (and
drink and dine) over lunch at La Scala, or dinner at Dan Tana’s, Spago (now in Beverly Hills), or Mi-
chael’s in Santa Monica. These are still places to see and be seen in, just as they were when they began.
Yes, there is a long thread of restaurant history here in the City of Angels, and it is an impressive one,
indeed. George Geary understands the importance of that history and its legacy. Now, thanks to him, we
are fortunate to be able to relive those times—and taste the food—in these fascinating pages.