Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist

76 Pages·2016·8.04 MB·English

Sell YOUR JEWELRY VIA INSTAGRAM • Designer Pearlss
p. 10
SINCE
1947
®

APRIL 2016
Kirsten Denbow's
Torch Fired
Enamel Necklace
PAGE 22
How to
Torch Fire
Enamel
Flowers

Make a
Fun Cuff
BY FUSING SILVER SCRAP
p. 54
Plus
*
Big, Bold Florals
CREATE THIS on Trend
*
New Black Bay
EASY TO SIZE
Opal
Adjustable Ring

p. 26

h e Widest Selection of Jewelry Tools Online
C
www.contenti.com $3890
SALE
D
from A $5900
$75500
SALE
B G
$1200 $28990
F
$39900
H
E $28500
NEW
A DURSTON ROLLING MILLS Known
throughout the world for their reliability,
robust construction, high quality, and i ne i nish. Contenti
has the full range of Durston manual rolling mills, 20 different models in
all, including the Double Rolling Mills. B MINIATURE SMITHING HAMMERS Choose from among 10
styles, all of which are scaled-down versions of silversmith’s hammers. All are 8 3/” long approximately
4
and have handles fashioned from rosewood. C DAPPING TOOL SET [Item 190-242] Includes 49mm (1 7/”) dapping block and
8
24 punches, 2.3mm to 25mm in diameter. The depressions on the Die range in diameter from 3.8mm to 40mm. Provided with wood stand.
D ECONOMY FLEXSHAFT MACHINE [Item 236-971] With its powerful 1/ HP motor and spring-reinforced sheath, our Economy Flexshaft is an outstanding value. The 1”
8
diameter No. 30-style handpiece is equipped with a Jacobs-style chuck that accepts any bur, drill bit, or rotary tool with a shank up to 5/ ” diameter. Oper-
32
ates at speeds up to 22,000 RPM, regulated by a carbon resistance foot rheostat. Shaft connection accepts any American-style (QD connection) handpiece.
Furnished with i tted carrying case. E PEPE JUMP RING MAKER [Item 400-124] Produce jump rings quickly and easily with the newly redesigned Jump Ring
Maker. Coil your wire around one of the twenty mandrels (diameters range from 2.5 to 12 mm) using the hand-winder. Once the coil is formed, place
it in the adjustable coil holder and saw through it using the included rotary saw and handpiece guide. Flexshaft machine with a no. 30 style handpiece
required (sold separately). F COMPACT GUILLOTINE SHEAR [Item 410-944] With 4” wide hardened tool steel blades, this compact guillotine shear from Pepetools
can cut nonferrous sheet metal up to 0.8mm thick (20 gauge). Integrated into the back of the shear is a measuring gauge that enables you to cut
consistently precise lengths of sheet stock. The table features an adjustable miter fence with markings. Constructed of machined and plated steel and
aluminum components. The shear takes up very little room on your bench top. G ECONOMY ROLLING MILL [Item 190-891] Surprisingly affordable, this mill is
equipped with two 43 mm dia. fl at, hardened steel rolls and two wire rolls, all 76 mm wide. Wire rolls have grooves from .75 to 4.3 mm wide. Has 4:1 gear
reduction for easier operation. Includes a 1 year warranty. H JEWELER’S WORKBENCH (UPS Shippable) [Item 110-234] Hand-crafted from solid woods for durability
and strength. Railing on 3 sides. Equipped with metal-lined pull-out tray, pull-out tool shelf with 2 levels, 3 storage drawers, bench pin, and 2 arm rests.
39” wide x 19.5” deep x 39” high. UPS Shippable.
Visit us online at
The Contenti Company
515 Narragansett Park Drive www.contenti.com
Pawtucket RI 02861 USA
Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
April 2016 • Volume 70, Number 1
®
18
48
C ONTENTS
4 My Turn
From the Editor: Not Your Garden Variety Florals
6 Your Turn
Design Challenges & Letters
8 Their Turn
A Gallery of This Issue’s Contributors
22
10 N et Profi ts: Jewelry Jam on Instagram
by Cathleen McCarthy
more at jewelrymakingdaily.com/netprofi ts
14 C ool Tools & Hip Tips: Tools for Making FIndings
by Helen I. Driggs
SPRINGTIME & FLOWERS
14 18 Trends: Say It With Flowers
by Deborah Yonick
22 Torch Fired Enamel Floral Necklace
jewelry project by Kirsten Denbow
26 Wrap-Around Raindrop Ring
jewelry project by Jeff Fulkerson
26
32 Black Bay Opal
materials by Jim Landon
PEARLS
38 Smokin’ Stones: Pearls:
The American Classic
by Sharon Elaine Thompson

t
s 44 What’s Hot in Pearls
i
rt materials by Betsy Lehndorff
a
y 48 Carving Pearls
r
l design demo by Betsy Lehndorff
e
w
e
J 54 54 Splat Bracelet
(
) jewelry project by Noël Yovovich
l
a
n 60 Facets
r
u News & Product Innovations
o
j ADVERTISING SECTIONS
y ABOUT OUR COVER: 68 Focus on Education 64 Ask the Experts
r
a Kirsten Denbow’s Torch Fired 70 Classifi eds by Tom & Kay Benham
d
pi Enamel Floral Necklace, page 22. 70 Gem & Jewelry Shops 72 The Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist
la PHOTOS: JIM LAWSON 71 Advertisers’ Index Doer’s Profi le: Chris Ploof
22

MY TURN
from the editor
Not Your Garden Variety Florals
WHAT DO YOU GET
when you mix a perennial
favorite with a hot trend and add a lot of splash? You get
the perfect opportunity to sell the artisan jewelry you
EDITORIAL
love to make. CONTENT STRATEGIST, JEWELRY GROUP
Flowers are trending big this year, and I do mean big: Jean Cox
JEWELRY EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Merle White
“Florals are amplifi ed with big, bold intensity,” reporter
JEWELRY FEATURES MANAGER Helen I. Driggs
Deborah Yonick tells us in Trends, page 18. “The tendency JEWELRY DESIGNER MANAGER Denise Peck
has been for large sizing, with more drama and detail,” adds GROUP MANAGING EDITOR Mallory Leonard
JEWELRY EDITOR Karla A. Rosenbusch
Leatrice Eiseman for the Pantone Color Institute.
GROUP PROMOTION EDITOR Lindsay Jarvis
If your signature style is full of colorful, over-the-top fl owers, this is the CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Tom & Kay Benham,
Lexi Erickson, Sharon Elaine Thompson
year for you. If your designs are missing one or more of these elements,
now’s the time to expand your horizons: and hurry, because Mother’s Day ART
ART DIRECTOR Amy Petriello
will be here soon!
VIDEO MANAGER Garrett Evans
You could start in this issue with the perfectly timed “Torch Fired
MARKETING
Enamel Floral Necklace” (page 22). Do you prefer gems to enamels? See VP, ECOMMERCE MARKETING Evelyn Bridge
how excited many designers are about some of the colorful freshwater MARKETING MANAGER Hollie Kuhlmann
pearls produced in China today (page 44) — and did you know that ADVERTISING
Tennessee also produces freshwater pearls (page 38)? And here’s ADVERTISING MANAGERS
Marilyn Koponen, ph. 877-613-4613
something diff erent: add texture and detail when you learn how to carve a Stephanie Griess, ph. 877-613-4630
pearl yourself (page 48). AD TRAFFICKER Lisa Buelow
But gemstones are the real stars of jewelry color, so be sure to check
in next month for Smokin’ Stones’ focus on a sunny-colored gem called
sphene. Lively by nature and aff ordable because of current production,
this little-known stone is one you’ll be able to introduce to many of your
F+W, A Content + eCommerce Company
customers. Plus, learn tips and tricks for setting faceted stones while
CEO Thomas F.X. Beusse
making an outrageous organic brooch studded with small garnets. CFO/C00 James Ogle
Keep checking in because we’ll keep spotlighting stones and setting them PRESIDENT Sara Domville
SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, OPERATIONS
in these pages, but you can also fi nd so much more at www.interweavestore.
Phil Graham
com/jewelry: buying, setting and cutting stones . . . working with enamels . . . VICE PRESIDENT, COMMUNICATIONS
Stacie Berger
and making organic forms in metal. Here are a few examples:
Learn Eff ectively Buying Gemstones and Identifying Obstacles in a Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist (ISSN 1936-5942) is
published 9 times a year by F+W Media, Inc., 4868
downloadable webinar with John Heusler. To set what you buy, consider
Innovation Drive, Fort Collins, CO 80525. USPS #0023-8457.
Ann Cahoon’s intro video on prong, fl ush and bezel settings as well as her Periodicals postage paid at Fort Collins, CO 80525, and
additional mailing offices. All contents of this issue of
follow-up on setting fancy shapes. In his videos, Michael Boyd will teach Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist are copyrighted by F+W
st you cabochon cutting and several special lapidary setting techniques. Media, 2016. All rights reserved. Projects and information
i are for inspiration and personal use only. Reproduction
rt Need help with those fl oral shapes? Master curved metal forms that are in whole or in part is prohibited, except by permission
a perfect for fabricating blooms with Andrea Harvin-Kennington’s shell- of the publisher. Subscription rate is $29.95/one year
ry in the U.S., $44.95/one year in Canada, and $54.95/one
l forming video, or Helen Driggs’s video on spirals, tubes and other curves. year in international c oun tries (surface delivery). U.S.
e
w And don’t miss Pauline Warg’s new book, Jeweler’s Enameling Workshop: if funds only. For Subscription Services, email jewelryartist@
e emailcustomerservice.com; 1-800-676-4336 (toll-free US &
J you want to learn about enameling, you want this book. Canada) or 386-246-0105 (outside North America).
(
l ) Whether you want to jump on this evergreen trend, surprise Mom with POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to
na something really special, or want your jewelry to blossom just because, it’s Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist, P.O. Box 433289,
r Palm Coast, FL 32143.
u always a good time to try something diff erent and learn something new.
o Retailers: If you are interested in carrying this magazine in
j your store, please contact us: Toll Free [phone] or
y
r eMail [email protected].
a
d
i VISIT US ON THE WEB:
p
a [email protected] www.jewelrymakingdaily.com
l
4
Your most important tools
aren’t in a box
·
Between a jewelry designer’s imagination and
the final piece of work lies an entire production
process filled with creativity, technique and skill. Jewelry manufacturing arts
programs and courses include:
Let GIA’s Jewelry Manufacturing Arts curriculum take
GRADUATE JEWELER BASIC REPAIR AND SETTING
you from idea to reality, as you learn under the watchful JEWELRY DESIGN INTERMEDIATE REPAIR
AND SETTING
eyes of highly skilled cratsmen who share their passion COMPREHENSIVE CAD/CAM
FOR JEWELRY
and expertise. Working in state-of-the-art classrooms at
your own fully equipped workbench, you’ll learn time-
tested techniques and the newest technology – and earn
a professional credential that’s recognized worldwide.
Enroll in a program or just a single class to meet your
speciic needs and interests.
LL
VEVE
Courtesy YCourtesy Y
RI, Earrings Earrings
A
L
L
E
Get started today, or learn more Courtesy of B
by visiting www.gia.edu, or call Bangle,
us at 800 421 7250, ext 4001.
Learn from the World’s Foremost
Authority in Gemology™
YOUR TURN
reader comments & sketches
› DESIGN CHALLENGES
NEXT TIME:
YOUR COVER RIFFS:
Designs based on Roger Halas’s
Mystical Moonstone Ring, December, 2015.
Shevvy
Baker
Louisville, Dianne Brooks
Kirsten Denbow’s Torch Fired
Kentucky Punta Gorda,
Enamel Floral Necklace, Florida
COVER.
Rif on a design feature of
this piece such as color,
texture, form, value, line,
space, repetition, balance,
YOUR SETTINGS:
contrast, unity, or variety for
your sketch. Designs based on an antique cushion
cut cubic zirconia, cut by Jim Perkins,
December, 2015.
Maggie
Morawietz
San
Antonio,
Texas
Sketch a setting for this
Black Bay opal cabochon, Thomas Wickline
page 32. Shevvy Baker Tacoma, Washington
Louisville, Kentucky
DEADLINES:
› LETTERS
APRIL 30, 2016
Email digital scans at 300
DPI or send photocopies of
no more than three sketches Re: “Fossilized Red Oak & Silver
per challenge, indicating the
Pendant,” July, 2015
design factor that is your
starting point. Sketches will In the July 2015 issue of Lapidary Journal
not be returned. Jewelry Artist, Lexi Erickson’s Fossilized
Red Oak & Silver Pendant and Michael
t Boyd’s “Basic Cabochon Cutting” video
s
i on page 13 reminded me of something
t
r I’ve found rather dangerous through my
a
own use. The use of nails and screws for
y
r holding cabochons is fi ne. But you really
l
e should cut the points of or fi le them
w WRITE TO US ANYTIME: down. It is rare, but you can get a kick
e
J What do you think about back from your grinding wheels and send that sharp point right

)( what you’ve seen and read in into your hand. I really think it is a good piece of advice to grind
l Lapidary Journal Jewelry the points of anything used to hold cabochons for grinding and
na Artist? polishing.
r Neal Schornack
u SEND SKETCHES & LETTERS
o Kuna, Idaho
j for possible print or online

y publication to: Karla.
r The editors respond: Thanks for the very helpful tip, Neal.
a [email protected].
d Include your name, city, and We should always remember — safety fi rst! [Both the July, 2015
pi state, and indicate “Your Turn” issue and Michael Boyd’s video are available at
a
l on the subject line. www.interweavestore.com/jewelry.]
6
We get it.
We know what it means to leave a piece
of your heart in every item you make with your hands.
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April 2016 7
THEIR
a gallery of this issue’s contributors
TURN
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TO: J PAULA CREVOSHAY’S
O
PH Ganesh’s Gift to Kali
Pink sapphires, diamonds, yellow sapphires, 18K gold
Trends, Page 18
JEFF FULKERSON’S
Scaling New Heights Bracelet
Sterling silver, black jade, fossil ivory,
fossilized dinosaur bone, petrified wood,
copper, Picasso marble KIRSTEN DENBOW’S
“Wrap-Around Raindrop Ring” Daisy Chain Choker
Page 26 Enamel on copper, silver, 14k gold TI
T
“Torch Fired Enamel RIE
Floral Necklace” PA
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Page 22 D
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