Laces and Lace Articles, part 1

126 Pages·2014·19.08 MB·English

UNITED STATES TARIFF COMMISSION
LACES AND LACE ARTICLES
A REPORT
UNDER THE GENERAL PROVISIONS OF SECTION 332
PART II, TITLE III, OF THE TARIFF ACT OF 1930, COVER
ING PARAGRAPH 920: NOTTINGHAM LACE-CURTAIN
MACHINE PRODUCTS, AND PARAGRAPH 1529 (a): LACES,
LACE FABRICS, LACE ARTICLES, AND OTHER
RELATED ARTICLES
REPORT No. 83
Second Series
UNITED STATES
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE
WASHINGTON : 1934
CONTENTS
Page
Acknowledgment xvn
Paragraphs 920 and 1529 (a) of Tariff Act of 1930 xvn
p-eface xtx
Introduction and summaries:
Introduction 1
Summary for Nottingham lace-curtain machine products:
Description and uses . 4
Production 6
Imports— 6
Exports 7
Relation of production and imports to consumption 7
Competitive conditions 8
Summary for fancy laces made on the Levers lace machine:
Description and uses 8
Production 11
Imports -— 13
Exports..' 15
Relation of production...and imports , to consumption 15
Competitive • conditions:.1 _u_ i _ a.i i — - 16
UNITED^ STATES T/AR|EF^CO^^ Summary for nets and nettings made on the bobbinet machme:
Description and uses 18
Office: Eighth and E Streets Nwl, Washington, D.C. Production : 19
Imports 20
COMMISSIONERS
Exports 21
ROBERT L. O'BRIEN, Chairman Relation of production and imports to consumption 21
THOMAS WALKER PAGE, Vice Chairman Competitive conditions 21
EDGAR B. BROSSARD Summary for Barmen laces made on the circular lace-braiding machine:
JOHN LEE COULTER Description and uses 21
SIDNEY MORGAN, Secretary Production 22
Imports 22
Relation of production and imports to consumption 23
Competitive conditions 24
Summary for Lyons Alencon lace 24
Summary for hand-made laces 25
Imports 26
Domestic trade in hand-made laces 27
Articles, wholly or in part of lace, .not elsewhere specified 27
Sundries:
TucHngs, flouncings, and all-overs 28
Lace window curtains, n.s.p.f 28
Braids other than Barmen lace 29
Ornaments and trirnmings, n.s.p.f., fringes and gimps 30
Flutings, quillings, neck rufflings, and ruchings 30
Lace wearing apparel 30
Revenue derived from imports under par. 1529 31
World trade in laces and lace articles " 33
CHAPTER L-—-NOTTINGHAM LACE-CURTAIN MACHINE PRODUCTS
I. General:
1." Differences between the products of the Nottingham lace-
curtain machine and the Levers lace machine 36
2.. Description and uses of Nottingham lace-curtain machine
products : 37
3. Development and present status of the lace-curtain industry
in the United States 37
4. The Nottingham lace-curtain machine 38
CONTENTS V
IV CONTENTS
Pags
II. Yarns used in the lace-eurtain industry: pae8 IV. Yams used in making Levers laces 89
X. Cotton yarns 4g 1. Cotton yarns 90 •
(a) Brass-bobbin yarns ^ (a) Brass-bobbin yarns 91
(b) Warp yarns 4j (6) Warp yarns 92
(c) Beam yarns 42 (c) Gimp yarns 92
(d) Spool yarns 42 (ri) Outline yarns.. 92
2. Rayon yarns 42 (e) Mercerized yarns 92
III. Statistical review of production and foreign trade in Nottingham Cf) Imported yarns 92
lace-curtain machme products _ 42 {g) Domestic and foreign usage of cotton yarns com
1. Domestic production: pared... 94
(a) Nottingham lace curtain unit values compared with (h) Cotton yarns used in making specific styles of
General Commodity Price Index 43 lace ' 95
(b) Production of Nottingham lace-curtain machines 2. Silk yarns . 96
compared with production in all other branches Spun silk . 97
of lace industry 44 3. Rayon yarns. ' 97
(c) Production by styles 45 4. Worsted threads 98
• 2. Imports 47 5. Metal threads 98
(a) Imports and domestic production compared 43 6. Natural moisture contained by different lace fibers in their
(6) Grades of lace curtains imported— 49 normal condition ; . 99
3. Exports : — 49 7. Yarn numbering "systems and equivalents '. 100
IV. Tariff history 50 V. Qualities of laces ' 101
V. Substitutes for Nottingham lace curtains 53 VI. Glossary _ 102
VI. Foreign production: VII. Statistical and analytical review of domestic production and for
Great Britain <-- —— 54 eign'trade in Levers laces:
Labor conditions in British curtain mills- 57 1. Domestic production 1 103
Other countries 57 2. Imports • 106
VTJ. Labor: Sources of imports 109
Types of employees ___ : 57 3. Domestic production and imports analyzed and compared- 110
Labor union organization: 4. Relation of domestic production to consumption 112
Twisthands . 59 5. Production by'siyles in domestic lace mills in 1924 113
Auxiliary workers = 60 6. Exports of domestic laces. 115
VIII. Wage data: 7. Exports of foreign laces. 117
Twisthands and the price list 60 VIII. Analysis of domestic production and trade in foreign Levers laces. 117
British wage rates.. 63 Changes in fashion ' .. 119
Payment for the processes in domestic mills 64 IX. Labor:
IX. Cost of production: 1. Types of employees 120
Seven variable factors affecting cost 65 2. Trade organizations . 122
Difficulties in establishing comparability 65
Material costs • 60 PART II.—FOREIGN PRODUCTION
Adjustment of costs for different counts of yarn 66
I. The Levers lace industry in France:
Analysis of domestic and foreign costs 67
1. The Calais lace industry 123
X. Prices: (a) Factory organization 126
Range of wholesale prices from 1913 to 1933—before, during, (t>) Yarns used in French laces 127
and after the war 69 (c) Methods of distribution to foreign countries 128
XXILI. EDcisotnroibmuitci oans pects of the American and British industrire s 7£32 (d) PriScteast eas nd profi.t s in Ca.l ais and in the United 130
XIII. Technical processes of manufacture: (e) Advantages and disadvantages of specialization
Yarn preparation 1 75 in Calais 131,
Designing 2. The Caudry lace industry 131
Drafting lb 3. The Lyons lace industry . 132
Reading and punching of Jacquard cards 7° 4. Statistical review of French foreign trade in lace products. 132
Operation of the Nottingham lace-curtain machine 79 5. Labor:
Finishing processes °3 (a) Working hours and conditions 136
(&) Labor unions and trade organizations 136
CHAPTER II.—FANCY LACE MADE ON THE LEVERS LACE MACHINE 6. The protection of designs '. 138
7. Competitive factors 138
PART I.—THE DOMESTIC INDUSTRY
n. The Levers lace industry in Great Britain:
I. Description and uses 84 1. Development and present scope of the industry 139
II. Development of the domestic Levers lace industry: • 2. Distinctive features of the British industry 141
1. Historical __' °' 3. Statistical review of British production and foreign trade
2. Present extent of domestic Levers lace industry °° in laces 142
3. Machinery and equipment • °' (a) British import and export trade in Levers laces— 143
III. Levers and Levers go-through lace machines B/ (&) British exports of imported lace compared with
exports of lace of British manufacture 146
4. The depression in the British lace trade 147
5. Effects of the safeguarding duties of 1925 on the British
lace, trade • 148
VI CONTENTS CONTENTS VII
VIII- Technical processes of manufacture: J?ag®
III. The Levers lace industry in Germany n 1. The Levers lace machine and its operation 189
IV. Tariff legislation in the United State s concerning lace and lace 14 (a) The jacquard _. 194
articles 150 (b) Theory of lacemaking by machine 197
(c) Mode of driving the machine 198
(d) Length of webs 199
PART ni. COMPARATIVE WAGES, COSTS, DISTRIBUTION METHODS,
(e) Production 199
AND COMPETITIVE CONDITIONS
2. Finishing processes:
I. Wanes: (a) Mending _i 201
1. Difficulties of determining and comparing wages in the (b) Bleaching 201
domestic and foreign lace industries jj, (c) Dyeing 201
2. System of payment of twisthands in domestic mins (d) Dressing 201
3. Payment under the Calais schedule 155 (e) Finishing 202
4. Payment of -twisthands in British-lace mills 155 3. J^gIi^^d«|h!eB^tetfiis used in the Levers lace industry. 203
5. Comparative rack rates. . 157
6. Payment for minor processes 155,
(a) In Calais 159 CHAPTER III.—BOBBINET
(b) In the British lace industry 159 I. Description and uses 205
7. Payment of designers and draftsmen igj II. Development and present scope of the domestic bobbinet industry-
II. Cost data: Tariff history 206
1. Variable factors inherent in Levers laces: III. Equipment necessary for the production of bobbinets:
(a) Style 102 1. The bobbinet machine 207
(b) Pattern 162 2. Accessory equipment 209
(c) Gage 162 IV. Materials used in making bobbinets : 209
(d) Quality 163 V. Labor 210
(e) Width 163 VI. Analysis of domestic production and foreign trade in bobbinets:
(f) Yarns 163 1. Domestic production . 210
(!7) Finish . 163 • 2>-Expsorts :of ^domestic bobbinet . 210
2. Material costs . '- 163 3. Exports of foreign merchandise 210
3. Labor costs, manufacturing; and o;ther expenses 164 4. Imports for consumption 211
4. Sources and description of cost data: 5. Imports of rayon nets 212
(a) Domestic costs 165 6. Relation of production and imports to consumption 212
(6) Foreign costs 166 7. Sources of imports 213
5. Relation of material, labor, and manufacturing costs to 8. Mosquito netting 214
total costs in the manufacture of certain domestic and VII. Foreign production of bobbinets:
foreign laces 167 1. England 215
III. Distribution of domestic and imported Levers laces: (a) Production 216
1. Importers 169 (b) Exports 216
2. Distribution of domestic and imported laces 170 (c) The safeguarding duties applied to bobbinet 217
IV. Prices: 2. France 217
1. Wholesale selling prices of domestic laces 170 3. Germany 218
2. Wholesale selling prices of imported laces 173 -Identification of German pattern numbers ; 218
3. The mark-up on imported Levers laces 174 4. Other countries 219
4. Retail prices 175 VIII. Wage data:
V. Substitutes for Levers laces 175 1. Payments to workers in domestic bobbinet mills 219
VT. Competitive advantages and disadvantages of the domestic Levers 2. Comparison of domestic with British wage rates 220
lace industry 176 3. Wage rates in the silk bobbinet industry in Lyons 222
VII. Methods of procedure in making fancy laces: IX. Cost data:
1. Fashion, designing, and drafting as vital factors in the 1. Material costs 223
Levers lace industry: 2. Comparability of domestic and foreign bobbinets of cotton
(a) Fashion 178 and silk 223
(6) Designing 180 3. Comparison of domestic and English costs of cotton bob
(c) Protection of designs 180 binet 223
(d) Drafting 181 4. Costs of cotton bobbinets from countries other than Great
2. Types of Levers laces 182 Britain 224
(a) Vraie Valenciennes, Calais Vals, or "fil passe" 5. Costs of silk bobbinets 225
laces 183 X. Prices:
(b) Top bar or independent beam laces 183 1. Prices of domestic bobbinets 226
(c) Bobbin-fining laces 184 2. Prices of foreign cotton bobbinets 227
(d) Silk laces made with top, or top and bottom bars, 3. Dutiable value 229
on Ensor net ground 185 .' 4. The mark-up on imported nets and nettings 230
3. Reading and punching of Jacquard cards 1°6 XI. Competitive economic advantages and disadvantages of the do
4. Yam preparation 18° mestic bobbinet industry 231
XII. Technical processes of manufacture:
Description and operation of the machine 232
The finishing processes 233
CONTENTS IX
.yjH CONTENTS
Page
CHAPTER IV—BARMEN LACE MADE ON THE CIRCULAR LACE- VII. The tariff on hand-made lace and its purposes 277
BRAIDING. MACHINE WITH JACQUARD ATTACHMENT
PAGE
CHAPTER VII.—SUNDRIES
I. Description and uses -------7
I. Tuckings, .flouncings, and all-overs •_•___ . 279
II Development and present scope of the domestic industry 236
II. Lace window curtains, n.s.p.f.: -
Tariff history •I..———-— 2S
; 1. Swiss embroidered curtains 280
.-III. Organization, equipment, and materials—_
(a) Domestic production 281
IV. Domestic production and foreign trade in Barmen laces:
(6) Foreign production 282
1. Domestic production .- 2. Hand-made lace window curtains - ' 282
. -2. Imports and exports— ---- 239 3.. Imports:
3 Relation of domestic production and imports to consump (a) Imports for consumption..—— - 282
tion — - -.- 240 (6) General imports . 283
4. Cost data concerning Swiss embroidered curtains 283
V. Foreign production:
5. Importers of Swiss embroidered curtains and the mark-up. 284
1. Germany .
III. Braids: ... .
. . •2. France •- '—'
1. Production .and imports for consumption 285
3. England——-
2. The mark-up on imported braids 285
4. Other countries — . IV._ Ornaments and trimmings, n.s.p.f., fringes, and gimps 285
VI. Substitutes for Barmen laces :- ._——-_—• jii V.- Flutings, quillings, neck rufnings, and rachings.^ : 287
•'VII. Wage data—---, —_ — ------------.-*-- . £W VL. Wearing apparel, wholly or in part-of lace...^ ^ \ 288
r T
. VIII. -Domestic cost data ----rr. 44 VII. "Laces made on a knitting machine" 289
-'IX.- Foreign cost data: . ' ;"
CHAPTER VIII.—THE EVOLUTION OP HAND-MADE LACE
I. Early laces and lacemaking: ;.
German costs ^ -7 •• r. /4t>
1. Introduction 291
•' X. Wholesale prices: • .. •'2. Early evidences of lacemaking. 291
: 1. Domestic Barmen laces— : • 3. Pre-Renaissance laces ; . 1 '_ 292
2. Imported Barmen laces— r,-"-7 : ~4, 4. The rise of the art in Europe 293
' XI Competitive advantages and disadvantages of the domestic indus- • II. The two fundamental systems of hand lacemaking:
1. Needlepoint lace '-. 294
'-'•try — — •—* " Mh
2. Pillow lace 295
XII. Technical processes of manufacture: . •. • - ...
3. Development of style • 296
1. Designing, drafting, and Jacquard card punching._. 249
4. Materials used ... : . 297
2. The machine and its operation -r 250
3. Finishing processes _——._.——-—— T " — , —L°L . III. Deve5lo. pUmseenst oof fl asctye le by countries: , - .. r_--.7_ • 297
4 The same pattern made in different yarn counts and quah- I- Italy... .„ — „ ' • 298
ties' 2b2 2. France t 299
CHAPTER V.—LYONS ALEN^ON LACE ^_ -!*-" ..... (o) French, needlepoint lace .1. 300
IntrodI ucTtihoen hand-made lace industry in Europe sin: ce the war:; 254 (6) French pillow and bobbin lace —_ 301
.... (c) Silk laces :_ . 302
Imports.. 1. France ~ o~!-jc>
. :..r' (cZ).r-Real lace articles, other than edgings and inser-
The mark-up 2o. nB eLlSy^o^n-s gA-lre-n^c-o-n~ l-aecfe.t ive to the sa• le of h: —an d—-m ade lace. 260 iJJ ": tions ' 302
g i1 a 3. Flanders (Belgium)..J.-... --—_..i...• : ... 303
3- ItalyT^e"Malteselaw relative to hand-made lace 263 .'. . .4. Spain—-. 304
5. Germany •„ ... 305
II. The hand-made lace industry in China:
.. .6. The? islands;.of the Mediterranean Sea.i 1_. 305
1. Origin and extent of the industry - ..... ,7. Other countries of continental.Eu-rdpe__.__ .- _._ _ : 305
2. Production methods , i 8- England—_._______. _„____*. — _._'___ 305
R
3. Trade organization and system of merchandising Point d'Angleterre i._-J-. 306
4. Thread. 9. Ireland __._. . ' : : 306
5. Computation of costs of Chinese Venetian and filet laces.. 2C
: .... 10. Other countries-.; . :___ ~~ .. 307
6. Chinese export trade in laces ^
IV. Labor , • _; - 307
7. The future of the Chinese lace industry ^
1
III. Production in other countries: „f . V.. IJe'cline of the European industry. „ L„__j___ZIZ_IZ 308
Puerto Rico and the Philippines *l
IV. Hand-made lace articles: , . VI. Bibliography—hand-made .lace - — _-_._„•__: .._ — — __ , : 308
1 Hand-made lace articles of coarse filet ground made m " ' ' ' CHAPTER IX.—HISTORICAL DATA "
Belgium, France, Italy, and China... p The origin and development of lace'machines.__——_" —.'—._ 310
2. Hand-made lace articles other than filet.—————---- Opposition to the bobbinet machines from hand workers _ _ _ 312
V. Imports of hand-made laces and lace articles into the United Development of the products 313
States: , , . , o- The Nottingham laee-curtain machine , 314
Common origin of the three types of lace machinery .315
1. Imports for consumption and general imports. -
OTitishlace patents ... . 315
2. Imports of lace articles
Improvements m the machines- . 316
3. Importers and the mark-up: - .
(a) Mark-up on Chinese hand-made laces 0* Improvements in- the jacquard— 318
(6) The mark-up on articles made partly of lace * Materials used.: , 319
VI. Prices: 2' rroducts of the machines ZZZIIZZ 319
•Improvements and discoveries in drafting. 320
Wholesale prices 2'
Utaer types of lace, machines and lacelike fabrics 321
X CONTENTS CONTENTS XI
Table Page:
Page
Bibliography—machine-made lace ----------- 322 3. Nottingham lace-curtain machine products: Domestic production, 43
Development of English and French lace industries, 1817 to 1862 322 1914-31 _ .
Early attempts to produce exact imitations of hand-made lace by machin 4. Nottingham lace-curtain machine products: Percentage increase or
decrease since 1914 44
ery - - 323
5. Lace goods: Value of domestic production and percentage distribution
Origin and development of the Barmen lace machme 324 of Nottingham lace-curtain machine products and all other laces 45
APPENDIXES 6. Number of racks made of each style of curtains and net in 7
Appendix domestic mills, 1923 46
Decisions ______ —— — ——— ___— — ______— ——___ 329 7. Lace window curtains, pillow shams, bed sets, etc., made on the
B. List of lace manufacturers in the United States, November 1933 341 Nottingham lace-curtain machine and composed of cotton: Im
ports for consumption 47
C. Wage lists 342
8. Nottingham lace-curtain machine products: Value of domestic
DIAGRAMS production, imports, exports, and domestic consumption in census
Diagram years, 1914-31 49
9. Cotton lace window curtains: Domestic exports from the United
1. Processes involved in making lace , 179
States, 1922-25 50
2. Section of a Levers lace machine 191
10. Nottingham lace-curtain machine products: Average value per
3. Transverse section of the "inside:' of a Levers lace machme 193
square yard of imports for consumption under the act of 1922,
4. Section of the spring-dropper Jacquard _— ——-———- 195
and value per square yard at which minimum ad valorem duty
5. Section of the Rolling Locker, Levers Curtain and Double Locker lace
became applicable 52
machines 31a
11. Nottingham lace-curtain machine products, composed of cotton or
ILLUSTRATIONS other vegetable fiber: Average value per square yard of imports
for consumption, under Tariff Act of 1922 52
12. British exports of cotton lace curtains, 1920-32 56
Nottingham lace-curtain machine products:
1. Reading a pattern of a Nottingham lace curtain 78 13. Revised list of prices, 1900, paid twisthands for making the products
2. Back view of a Nottingham laCe-curtain • machine showing the of the Nottingham lace-curtain machine: Rates in cents per rack
spool boards and Jacquard harness.—- 79 on machines of specified gage and width 61
14. Nottingham lace-curtain machine products: Advance in payment
3. Hand-made and machine-made Valenciennes lace 183 for Swiss combination, the same width of machines under the
domestic wage rate cards of 1900 and 1933 • 62
4. Warping 186
15. Weighted average wage-rates per hour in domestic Nottingham
5. Brass bobbins and carriages 187
6. Brass-bobbin winding 188 lace-curtain mills, 1923 _ 64
7. Pressing brass bobbins 189 16. Percentages of total cost of production represented by material,
8. Levers go-through lace machine . . 190 labor, and manufacturing expense—71 samples of domestic Notting
9. Tying in warps and beams 191 ham lace-curtains and nets, 1923 67
10. Bleaehery and dressing room — 201 17. Percentages of total cost of production represented by material,
Bobbinet: labor, and manufacturing expense—32 samples of lace curtains
11. Bobbinet machine Mi and nets produced in Great Britain, 1923 68
Barmen lace: ' „ 18. Percentages of total cost of production represented by material,
12. Barmen lace machme j»i labor, and manufacturing expense—71 samples of domestic
13. Laces of different widths made with the same pattern cards 251 Nottingham lace curtains and nets divided according to gages, 1923_ 68
Ly ons-Alengon. laces: 19. Percentages of total cost of production represented by material,
14. Product of the bobbinet-Jacquard machme /oi labor, and manufacturing expense—31 samples of Nottingham
lace curtains and nets produced in Great Britain divided according
15. Lyons-Alengon lace 254
to gages, 1923 gg
History of hand-made lace: ,'-,.._,_, , orw
20. Nottingham lace curtains and lace curtain nets of cotton: Whole
16. Successive steps in the making of Point d Alengon lace sale prices, 1913-33, given by 4 large domestic manufacturers 70
17. Cluny lace on the pillow 21. Nottingham lace-curtain machine products: Prices of fabrics per
18. Napoleon's bed trimmed with Alengon lace -Ui yard manufactured in 10 domestic mills in 1923 : 72
Historic data: „.„ 22. Use of jacquards in producing articles on the Nottingham lace-
[Stocking frame »\° curtain machine, as listed in wage book of the Chartered Society
,„ \ Heathcoat's second bobbin net machine, 1809 ol*
of Amalgamated Lace Operatives of America 82
la- 1 Levers lace machine, 1826---.--.-.-——•
[Levers lace machine with Manchester Jacquard.'.;
CHAPTER II
20. Earliest example of machine-made lace 314
21. Metier Malhere or La Dentelliere, 1872 (precursor of the Barmen- 23. Gages and widths of Levers lace machines in the domestic industry,
1924 __ 88
lace machine) ia>
24. Foreign value and duty on a 10-point, 184-inch, Levers lace machine,
TABLES 1914-32 I 9
8
25. Average breaking strength and turns of twist per inch of fine Levers
CHAPTER I lace yarns 90
Table 26. Yards, per pound, of. cotton yarns used in the Levers lace industry. . 91
1 Number and gages of Nottingham lace-curtain machines in domestic 27. Cotton yarns used in 10 domestic Levers lace mills, 1924 93
mills in 1921 7--^-jr.— 28. Cotton yarn: Rates of duty in Tariff Act of 1930 93
29. Counts of yarn used for different styles of lace according to gage 95
2. Foreign value and duty-paid value of a 10-point, 360-inch, Notting-
30. Measurement of metal threads per kilogram and per pound 98
ham lace-curtain machine in 1914-32 y4 ol. Hygrometric standard for Levers lace yams 99
32. Yam numbering systems and equivalents 100
XTT CONTENTS CONTENTS Xm.
Table .
rM Table Ps2«f
33. Equivalent cotton counts of specific numbers of different lace yarns. ] QQ 68. Imports of foreign lace into and exports from Great Britain of net
34. Machine gage and quality of different styles of lace IQJ and laces of British manufacture, 1913 and 1933 147
35. Glossary of Levers machine-made laces 102 69. Percentage by which imports into and exports from Great Britain
36. Products of the domestic Levers cotton-lace industry, 1914-25 -| 04. of net and laces for 1933 is higher or lower than those of 1913 taken
37. Silk laces, nets, veils, and veilings produced incidentally by domestic on the basis of United States currency 147
silk industry, 1914-25 10_ 70 Imports of lace into Great Britain compared with exports of foreign
38. Total value of domestic production of Levers laces by States, census lace, 1919-26 _— 149
years, 1927-31 K15 71 Paragraphs concerning laces and lace articles, Tariff Acts of .1890 to
39. Total value of domestic production of Levers laces of all materials, 1930 — 150
1914-31 105 72-74. Comparison of rack rates paid in the United States, England, and
40. Domestic production of lace goods by material and. type, 1927-31, France:
with percentage analysis 105 Narrow Valenciennes laces made with independent beams. 157
41. Levers laces, and articles wholly of in chief value thereof: Imports Thick threaded cotton bobbin-fining laces 158
for consumption under the Tariff Act of 1909 106 Cotton Cluny laces 158
42. Levers machine-made laces: Imports for consumption under the 75. Weekly wages paid in the Levers lace industry in Calais and Notting
Tariff Act of 1930 HIT ham, pre-war, August 1923 and March 1925, with equivalent
43. Other machine-made laces: Imports for consumption under the Tariff United States currency 160
Act of 1930 . _ 108 76. Wages per 48-hour week in the Levers lace industry, Calais, France,
44. Levers and other machine-made laces of cotton, flax, and silk: Imports Dec. 31, 1931 161
for consumption, under the Tariff Acts of 1913 and 1922 108 77. Analysis of manufacturing and other expenses in a typical domestic
45. Laces, etc., of wool, artificial silk, artificial horsehair, and of tinsel Levers lace mill 164
wire, lame, bullion, or metal threads: Imports for consumption, 78. Percentage of total cost of domestic laces represented by material,
1910-30 109 labor, and manufacturing expense, by styles 168
46. Machine-made laces of cotton: General imports by countries, 1922- 79. Percentage of total cost of domestic laces, represented by material,
33 ' 110 labor, and manufacturing expense, by material 168
47. Veils and veilings of silk: General imports by countries, 1918-29.. 110 80. Percentage of total cost of certain French and English laces repre
48. Domestic production of Levers laces of all materials compared with sented by material, labor, and manufacturing expense, by styles.. 168
imports of machine-made laces of all materials, 1914—31 111 81. Percentage of total cost of certain French and English laces repre
49. Domestic production of Levers laces of all materials compared with sented by material, labor, and manufacturing expense, by material. 169
imports of machine-made and Levers laces in 1927-31: Foreign 82. Percentage analysis of costs in a French Levers lace mill 169
value used for imports 111 83. Domestic Valenciennes lace: Wholesale price in New York, per gross
50. Consumption of machine-made laces, and percentages supplied by (144 yards), 1915-33 — — 171
. domestic production of Levers laces and imports for consumption 84. Domestic Levers laces: Wholesale prices in New York, 1913-30 172
of machine-made laces, landed value, 1914^25 . 112 85. Domestic Levers laces: Wholesale prices in New York, 1925-33 173
51. Consumption of Levers laces of all recorded materials and percent 86. Wholesale selling prices in New York of imported Calais Val laces
ages supplied by domestic production and imports for consumption (fil pass.) per dozen .yards, 1914-32 173
of machine-made laces and Levers laces, landed value, 1927-31— 113 87. Importers' "mark-up" on the landed value of Levers laces imported
52. Percentage of the production in racks, according to styles of lace between July 1, 1927, and June 30, 1929 . 175
made in domestic mills investigated by the Tariff Commission, 88. Total hand-made laces. Imports for consumption, 1912-33 176
1924 114 89. Weekly production of Levers laces, 184-inc hrnachines,- 300 racks in 97
' 53. Exports of domestic cotton laces and embroideries, 1913-33 116 hours 200
54. Exports of Levers and other laces and lace .articles of foreign origin, 90. English and French terms used in the Levers lace industry 203
1912-33 . . 117
55. Levers lace machines in France, 1844-1931 125 CHAPTER III
56. Countries importing Calais laces and the styles imported by each—. 129
57. Imports of lace, net, and lace curtains into France, 1913-33: Value 91. Bobbinet machines in the United States, 1933 . 208
in French francs 133 92. Domestic production, by value, of bobbinets as recorded by the
58. Exports of lace, net, and lace curtains from France, 1913-33: Value Bureau of the Census, 1914-31 210
in French francs 134 93. Nets and nettings: Imports for consumption, 1912-33 211
59. Total exports of lace, net, and curtains from France by weight, value, 94. Nets and nettings, average annual imports for consumption under
and unit value, 1913-33— • 135 acts of 1913 and 1922 . — 212
60. Unit value of imports into and exports from France of net, lace cur 95. Nets and nettings, veils and veilings, of rayon or other synthetic
tains, and laces, 1913 and 1933 — - 135 textile: Imports for consumption: Tariff Act of 1930 212
61. Percentage that quantity of each item constitutes of the total im 96. Bobbinets: Value of domestic production compared with landed
ports and exports from France of net, lace curtains, and laces, by value of imports for consumption, census years 1921-31 212
.materials, 1913 and 1933 135 97. Cotton nets and nettings, veils and veiling, general imports, 1912-29. 214
• 62. Production of Levers laces: .British census data for the years 1907-30. 142 98. Silk nets and nettings, general imports, 1922-29 214
63. General imports of lace and net and articles thereof (except em 99. Totals for cotton nets and nettings, veils and veilings, and silk nets
broidery) into Great Britain, 1913-33 144 and nettings: General imports, 1922-29 214-
64. Exports of lace and net and articles thereof (except embroidery) of 100. British exports of cotton net, 1920-33 216
home manufacture from Great Britain, 1913-33 144 101. British exports of cotton net, by countries, calendar year 1932 217
65. Exports of lace and net and articles thereof (except embroidery) of
imported merchandise from Great Britain, 1913-33 145
66. Percentage of exports of lace goods of British manufacture to different
parts of the world, 1913-31 146
67. British exports of lace of British manufacture compared with exports
of foreign merchandise, 1913-33 • 146
CONTENTS XV
Y CONTENTS
XI
Table
Table Pa»>
135. Cotton hand-made laces: Value of general imports into the United Page
102. French exports of silk net, 1920-33 ^ X ' oi o}8
btates, by countries, 1912-33 272
103. Exports of nets and nettings from Germany, 1924r-d«s__- z~-~ 8
104. Derivation of pattern number of German bobbmet from factors 136. Hand-made laces: Average annual imports for consumption under
inherent in the article — 219 the tariff acts of 1913 and 1922 _ _ _ 272
105. Prices per rack paid in domestic bobbinet mills— ---------- 220 137. Articles, including napkins, made in part of lace" tl.I'b.: "imports for
106. Average rack prices paid in England and in the Umted btates tor consumption, 1918-33 273
making bobbinets, 1933 ^r--,r-,-7-z--'^l'"j"lZ~' 21 138. Cotton articles in part of lace: General "imports "by countries'!
107. Rates of wages paid in the domestic and English bobbmet industries 1 v2i2i—o2i 273
for auxiliary purposes — 222 139. Mark-up on Chinese hand-made laces "at New"York""f9"2"7~-2"9""_"r"II 274
108. Index of the cost of living, fixed by the Regional Commission of the 140. Mark-up on articles in part of lace in New York, 1927-29. _ . 274
Prefecture of the Rhone .— - ri~~Z~~t 141. Wholesale prices per yard of Chinese hand-made laces in New York"
109. Plain nets, of cotton, made on the bobbinet mach7me: Costs of pro- December 1933 _ 275
duction in the United States and in England, 1924 224 142. Wholesale prices of Chinese hand-made filet ~lace"ar"ticles," December
110. Cotton bobbinets: Ratio of domestic costs to British, costs and of 1 y oo 276
domestic miU selling price to British dutiable values, 1924—... 224 143. Domestic production of Levers laces, landed value" of "imports" "for
111. Cotton bobbinets: Comparison of details of domestic costs with consumption of hand-made laces and ratio of imports of hand
details of foreign costs, other than British, 1924_ ------------ 22o made laces to domestic production, 1914-31 278
112. Silk bobbinets: Comparison of details of domestic costs with details CHAPTER VII
of foreign costs, 1924 _
113 Silk bobbinets: Costs and selling prices of domestic bobbinets and 144. Tuckings, Bouncings, and all-overs other than of lace: Imports for
mill -selling price and dutiable value of English and French silk consumption, 1918-33 _ 279
145. Lace window curtains, n.s.p.f. (not made on "the ~Nottmg¥a"m" lace-
bobbinets, 1924 225
curtain machme): Imports for consumption, 1912-33.. 282
114 Domestic bobbinets, of cotton: Wholesale prices, per square yard, in 146. Lace window curtains of all kinds: General imports, 1912-3~3 283
New York, 1913-33 - — - — -.-^-Tr-.-T.7,7.---„--— 22» 147. Swiss embroidered curtains: Comparison of costs of production"per
115 Invoice prices of cotton net, 39-hole, from Great Britain, 1913--33 227 square yard in the United States and Switzerland, plus transpor-
116" Cotton bobbinets for mosquito netting: Foreign, values in English tation and other landing charges to New York, in 1924. _ • 284
pence, and American selling price in cents- r- 1 148. Swiss embroidered curtains: The importer's mark-up ." """ 284
117 Customs schedule of dutiable values, per linear yard effective at 149. Braids: Value of domestic production, 1919-31 285
New York, 1933 -r-.--^~,--c 229 150. Braids, loom-woven and ornamented in weaving, or made by hand
118 British cotton bobbinets: Dutiable value, net, m English pence, per or on braid, knitting, or lace machines: Imports for consumption:
linear yard, 1913-34 230 Value, 1925-33 285
151. Value of domestic production of fringes, gimps, and sinila7ornameiits
CHAPTER. IV
and trimmings,.census years, 1899-1931 __ _ 286
119. Braided laces: Production, census years 1919-31----------------- 239
120 Statistical compilation covering exports of Barmen lace to the Umted 152. Ornaments, trimmings, n.s.p.f., fringes, and gimps: Imports for con
States from the records of the consulate at Barmen, Germany, sumption: Value, 1918-33 _ _ 286
153. Flutings, quillings, neck rufflings, and ruchings: Imports for" con
1910-17-- - - - -
sumption, 1918-33 _ 287
121. Exports of cottonface and lace articles to the United States, asrecorded
154. Wearing apparel made wholly or in part of lace" "import"s"for~ "con
by the American consulate at Cologne, Germany, 1922-61
sumption, 1922-33. _ _ 288
122 Domestic production of Barmen laces compared with German
155. Wearing apparel of cotton or silk, wholly or in part "of"lace or "em
exports of cotton laces to the United States consulated at Cologne
broidery: General imports by countries, 1922-33 28
1925 and 1927 - ^ " " ^1 111
123 Wages paid in domestic and German Barmen lace mills m 1924 24.-,
124 Wages paid in the Barmen lace industry in Germany in 1928 21A
125 Average cost of production of domestic Barmen laces m 1924 M o
126 Average cost of production of German .Barmen laces m 1924. _•_-
127 Domestic Barmen laces of cotton: Wholesale price per dozen hnear
yards, in New York for years 1918-33 _ ^'
128 Domestic Barmen laces of cotton: Wholesale prices, per dozen hnear
yards, in New York for years 1918-28 — 2i,
129. Prices of Barmen lace machines, f.o.b. Barmen, Germany, 1914^-28— 2V>
CHAPTER V
130 Other machine-made lace. Imports for consumption, Tariff Act of
1930 — lM
CHAPTER VI
131 Analysis of cost of Venetian lace banquet cloth 2n'
132 Total value of exports of Chinese hand-made lace and value of exports
to the United States, 1914-33 fJi
133. Chinese exports of lace and trimmings for 1933—
134 Total hand-made laces: Imports for consumption, 1912-33
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
In the preparation of this report the Tariff Commission had the
services of George Middleton, special expert of the textile division of
the Commission's staff, and of others.
TARIFF ACT OF JUNE 17, 1930
Text of paragraphs 920 and 1529 (a) providing for laces and lace
articles:
PAR. 920. Lace window curtains, nets, nettings, pillow shams, and bed sets,
and all other fabrics and articles, by whatever name known, plain or Jacquard-
figured, finished or unfinished, wholly or partly manufactured, for any use what
soever, made on the Nottingham lace-curtain machine, wholly or in chief value
of cotton or other vegetable fiber, 60 per centum ad valorem.
PAR. 1529 (a). Laces, lace fabrics, and lace articles, made by hand or on a
lace, net, knitting, or braiding machine, and all fabrics and articles made on a
lace or net machine, all the foregoing, plain or figured; lace window curtains,
veils, veilings, flouncings, all-overs, neckrufflings, flutings, quillings, ruchings, tuck-
ings, insertings, galloons, edgings, trimmings, fringes, gimps, and ornaments; braids,
loom woven and ornamented in the process of weaving, or made by hand, or on
a lace, knitting, or braiding machine; * * *; all the foregoing, and fabrics
and articles whollv or in part thereof, finished or unfinished (except materials
and articles provided for in paragraph 915, 920, 1006, 1111, 1504, 1505, 1513,
1518, 1523, or 1530 (e), or in Title II (free list), or in subparagraph (b) of this
paragraph), by whatever name known, and to whatever use applied, and whether
or not named, described, or provided for elsewhere in this Act, when composed'
wholly or in chief value of filaments, yarns, threads, tinsel wire, lame, bullions,
metal threads, beads, bugles, spangles, or rayon or other synthetic textile, 90 per
centum ad valorem. * * *.
svn
PREFACE
This report deals with laces and lace articles, and related articles,
covered by paragraphs 920 and 1529 (a) of the Tariff Act of 1930.
Certain types of laces are luxury goods, some of them veritable works
of art, but others belong in the class of necessities and are sold, largely
in chain stores, at prices which place them within the reach of every
purse. _ ,
The various laces and articles treated differ radically in mode of
construction and in material composition, also in shape and size and
in use._ The dissimilarity is such that they cannot be logically com
bined into one group and are therefore given separate treatment in
the several chapters as follows:
C-apter
I. Nottingham lace-curtain machine products.
II. Fancy laces made on the Levers lace machine.
III. Nets and nettings made on the bobbinet machine.
IV. Barmen laces made on the circular lace-braiding machine.
V. Lyons Alencon lace.
VI. Hand-made laces.
VII. Sundries.
VIII. The evolution of lace.
IX. Historical data concerning lace machinery.
Lists of domestic mills and machines and of domestic and foreign
wage schedules appear in the appendix.
The information on cost of production is mainly derived from the
data assembled by the United States Tariff Commission in its investi
gations made in 1924 covering the year 1923 and the mformation on
importers' mark-up for expenses and profit, from data obtained in
1931 and 1932 in the-valuation study under section 340 of the Tariff
Act of 1930.
The account of the evolution of lace was written in response to
numerous requests from the trade for such information. The decline
in the making of European hand-made lace, largely through the rise of
Chinese production of cheaper articles, is so serious that it has been
deemed worth while to publish the laws promulgated in Belgium and
Malta for its protection.
There has been included at the end of each chapter a section
on technical details of machine construction and operation. The
mechanical operations of the various machines are so complicated
and so little known that considerable space has been given to
the descriptions of their various motions. There are excellent
descriptions of the operation of the Nottingham lace-curtain, the
bobbinet, and the Barmen lace machines in German, and of the
Levers and go-through lace machines in French, but with the exception
of descriptions of the Levers lace machme in a magazine, the publica
tion of which has ceased, and of consular and Commerce Department
reports published in 1905 and 1908 and now out of print, there does
not appear to be anything available in English. This paucity of
XIX