KULINARYA (A Guidebook to Philippine Cuisine)

201 Pages·2008·45.25 MB·English

by  Glenda Rosales Barretto

KUL1NARYA
A Guidebook to Philippine Cuisine
Glenda Rosales Barretto Conrad Calalang
Margarita Fores Myrna Segismundo
Jessie Sincioco Claude Tayag
Michaela Fenix Neal Oshima

Contents
Preface Asia Society Philippine Foundation, Inc. 7
Messages San Miguel Pure Foods 8
Del Monte Philippines, Inc. 10
Introduction 13
Pa rtici pati ng Chefs 16
Working Towards World-Class Cuisine 19
What Is Filipino Food? 29
Branding Our Food 33
PULUTAI\
Appetizers 47
SABAW Soups 61
GUlAY AT EN SAlADA I
Vegetables and Salads 75
UlAM Main Dishes 99
ADOBO Vinegar Braised 137
PANClT Noodles 155
MER1ENDA Snacks 165
M1NATAM1S Desserts 189
APPENDlX Sundries, Sauces, Condiments and Relishes 203
Glossary 222
Index 224
Sponsors 226
Acknowledgments 240
J
Asia
')ociety
Philippine Foundation, Inc.
One key aspect of culture is food, and it serves as a powerful promotional The Asia Society IS the leading global
and pan-Asian organizatIOn working to
channel. Millions of Filipinos live and work around the world, yet Filipino
strengthen relationships and promote
understanding among the people, leaders.
cuisine is hardly known or recognized outside the country, compared to,
and institutions of the United States and
for example, Thai and Vietnamese. Relatively few Filipino restaurants Asia. It seeks to increase knowledge of
Asia and Its diverse cultures, enhance
have made their mark abroad.
dialogue, encourage creative expression.
and generate new ideas across the fields
These are the principal reasons that the Philippine Department of Agriculture, of policy, business, education, arts, and
the Asia Society, in cooperation with offers information on the sourcing of culture. The Society does this through
the Philippine Department of Tourism, ingredients and provides standards lectures, exhibits, journals, publications,
conferences, travel tours, and educational
with grants from San Miguel Corporation and best practices to help growers and
programs in schools and on the Internet.
and Del Monte Corporation, started the producers, packagers, purveyors, and Founded in 1956, Asia Society is a
Kulinarya project, consisting of this book cooks meet the increasingly discriminating non-partisan, non-profit educational
and the Kulinarya website (kulinarya.netj. expectations of a growing domestic and institution with centers in Hong Kong,
Houston, Los Angeles, Manila, Melbourne,
This ambitious project advocates improved international market.
Mumbai, New York, San Francisco, Seoul,
cooking methods and best practices in the Quality standards will enhance branding
Shanghai, and Washington, DC.
preparation and presentation of Filipino and investment in Filipino restaurants
food. It hopes to build greater appreciation and develop demand for our food and
for and understanding of Filipino cuisine ingredients, which will directly benefit
and its traditions at home and throughout Filipino food producers, big and small.
the world. Asia Society thanks its invaluable
Six of the country's most prominent partners in this project: the Department
chefs gave generously of their time of Tourism, San Miguel Corporation, Del
and talent to create this book. Glenda Monte Corporation, Anvil Publishing, and
Barretto headed the group, composed of the Hotel and Restaurant Association of
Conrad Calalang, Margarita Fores, Myrna the Philippines.
Segismundo, Jessie Sincioco, and Claude The book was created by food writer
Tayag. Together, they set out to identify Michaela Fenix, photographer Neal
and assess best practices to improve the Oshima, Claude Tayag as food stylist, and
standards of selection of ingredients, book designer Ige Ramos.
preparation and presentation of more The scope of the project has been a
than 90 recipes. challenge. With this guidebook, Asia
Kulinarya.net, produced in cooperation Society hopes to make its contribution to
with the Center for International Trade the recognition of and appreciation for
Expositions and Missions (CITEM) and Filipino cuisine throughout the world.
W!IppaI SkaIMd mushrOOlllS (pino,s no kobutd
Foreword 7
lntroduction
The principal problem in branding and defining standards for Filipino
cuisine is that Filipinos are by nature highly individualistic and diverse.
Standards in our culture seem to exist not so much to be followed
strictly, as to serve as a basis for personalization. In fact, variation and
diversity are the standard. The preparation and presentation of Filipino
food is tremendously varied, even within the same province, town or
neighborhood, in the same way, for example, that villages separated by
less than an hour's walk in the Cordillera mountains speak completely
different languages and regard each other as foreigners.
Wide variation seems to run counter variations.
to the concept of branding, which is The team decided that Kulinarya's
based on agreement and convention. For recipes should define tradition, not
example, to brand a dish, there ought to reinvent it. For example, although the
be a commitment to how it should look, team's first impulse was to focus on
so it can be recognized. Well-known large family-style servings in the fiesta
or restaurant tradition, we realized that
dishes found in Asia such as tempura,
Filipinos, on a daily basis, eat more
nasi goreng, Peking duck, or tom yum
typically from smaller portions. These
are consistently prepared and instantly
are most commonly a viand (ulam), a
recognizable. This is not always the case
vegetable (gulay), and rice (kaninj. Thus,
with Filipino dishes.
the recipes in this book are designed for
The Kulinarya project's primary
four to six but can be presented for two
purpose, however, is not to define
or more people to share.
how a dish should look, nor is it to
There are notable exceptions. Some
suppress variation in favor of a single
recipes specify larger quantities because
strict interpretation. It focuses instead
they require more time and effort to
on defining guidelines to improve the
cook and are thus more cost-effective
selection of ingredients, preparation and
when prepared in quantity. Also, many
presentation. The end product should be
Filipino dishes (for example adobo) are
food that is freshly cooked, served at
more delicious when stored and eaten
the ideal temperature, and aesthetically
later, as flavors are more fully absorbed;
presented. The goal is to establish a
it is a sort of retro-marination that is
reprodUCible baseline of quality, with
unique to the cuisine.
characteristics that persist through all
~awttd salad knsoladang gos6 or laid) Introduction I 1 3
selections were force-classified into
many discussions many variations of br ..
The team conducte .d. e to other AS.ia n cour ses - even if Filipinos do not always sOmeti.m es frying. Ap alStl nfg , stew, ng,and
compan.n g Filipino CUIhSI no f Asian cooking serve meals by courses. This was done to there are s.ign.if icanta r r.am. techn. , que,
cuisines. Because mu.c k the ingredients make the cuisine more understandable ingredients added to tvha riabti o.ns' n the
. ten with ChOpStlC s, .
IS ea t . to bite-size pieces by international norms, and also to salt, and pepper, Such e aSlc V'n egar,
are generally cu In I make menu planning, whether for home as coconut milk
and deboned, leavi.n g the plate c ean soy sauce, and annatto wate A .'
or restaurant, easier. Meriendo (the ... r. dObo Isn't
after eating. There were arguments. on limited either to basic "CPA" .
traditional snack between meals) was !chiCken
the men t s of bones and shells enha.n.c.in g pork odobo), as the adobo tech.
flavor, versu S the archetypal Filipino added because it is when delicacies like appli.e d all over the country t nlque 's
pl ate full of debrIS after a meal. In t.h e rice cakes (kakoninjare eaten. Rice cakes f.ish, sh.ellfish , and even vegetable0s .m eat,
end, the recipes pay particular attentIOn are considered too heavy to be part of
After hammering out the list and
to achieving good flavors without too the main meal, and neither can they be
achieving agreement on the recipes, the
many bones and shells left on the plate. classified as dessert.
next challenge was presentation. It was
Anotherdebate centered on identifying Recipe selections were based on
agreed that one person had to style the
what makes Filipino food unique. The regional preferences and popularity
dishes and we unanimously nominated
team agreed that "sourness" is a basic throughout the country. Every home,
Claude Tayag for this.
quality of many Filipino dishes-adobo, town, and region has its own version of
The entire Kulinarya team would like
sinigong, paksiw, kilawin. Another IS
a particular dish. Poksiw, for instance,
to express its gratitude to those who
its flexibility, accommodating dipping
varies widely depending on regional
contributed their time and ideas to help
sauces (so wsa wanj, condiments, and
preferences, such as the type of vinegar
with this challenging project.
relishes made from a wide variety of
used, the vegetables added (or not), and
The most gratifying experience of
ingredients. Filipinos like to personalize
whether or not pork fat is a feature of all was the way the chefs all worked
their food with individual dipping sauces
and other accompaniments. the dish. It was difficult but imperative together-with enthusiasm. generosity,
Kulinarya's first challenge was to to select recipes that best represent the and a constant sense of fun. in spite of
dish and serve as a standard.
draw up the list of standard Filipino the serious ambition of the project, and
dishes most repreSentative of the diverse Adobo was a manifest exception. the effort and energy it demanded from
culture. The team also strove to create a Most Filipinos regard adaba as the all of us.
balance of m t national dish,' but the team recognized
ea , Poultry, seafood and
vegetables. After much debate th ' . that adobo is not just a dish but a way Glenda R. Barretto
, e recipe
of Cooking in itself. The process involves Chair, Kulinaryo Project
------ dalY !kan
It should be noted that the legen rch tilt
1
. . and rrst3 '
of filipino food wilting rnadt a
fernandeZ,
late Doreen Gam~~__. as the dish Ift05I
compelling case for SIn/gong . thIS IS ~
representative of fI·, ·I pl· no taste.
the convention in acackfnC.
14 f klJlINARYA fAG '
u1debook t DL·.
o ~"lhppine CUiSine
Working Towards
World-Class Cuisine
Kulinarya's mission is to inspire world-class preparation and presentation
of Filipino food. It promotes the application of best practices and a basic
understanding of cooking methods that apply to Filipino food. This
section emphasizes practices that should develop into habits.
Start with quality ingredients
Market vendors and supermarkets supply Prawns for sinigong are aesthetically
ingredients and produce according to large enough, yet still tender when
they are 50 grams, or 20 pieces to a
demand.lfwe exercise more discrimination
kilo.
in our purchases and demand better
The ideal weight for milkfish, or
quality, these suppliers will provide it.
bangus, is 500 grams, or two to a
Some examples:
kilo, for special dishes like rellena.
• Pork belly or liempo, a key ingredient At this weight, it is easier to de-bone
of Filipino food, should have evenly and the belly fat has developed.
distributed fat-to-meat content. • Select young, newly harvested
The ideal quality is achieved from a vegetables because they require
swine slaughtered at 90 to 95 kilos less cooking time and retain their
live weight, with a dressed carcass green color. Yard-long beans, or
weight of 65 to 70 kilos and a back sitaw, when not fresh, are so tough
fat measurement of 15 mm. that they must be cooked until they
• The best pigs for Filipino lechon de discolor; yet when picked young they
Above - Fresh "baby" vegetables, clockwise
leche are a native variety which have can actually be eaten raw.
from top: eggplant {t%ng no bi/og},
a higher fat to meat ratio, making Consumer demand for specific string beans {hobichue/os}, bitter melon
the meat tender and juicy. We should standards and sizes of produce, {omp%yang 1I0cono a bi/og}, and okra.
take away the guesswork of what size meat, poultry, and seafood will give
of lechon to order, often calculated the needed incentive to producers Opposite page -Filipina salad {ens%dong
according to the number of people to and their logistic providers to supply Filipino}
be fed, and instead adhere to ideal sizes better quality ingredients.
which are specified on page 128.
Oayap <.arvIOCJ Technique .. Thin k pre<;en td
FrU.it carvi.n g traditions show the F.i lipino n, green
aesthetic sense. The picture shows IJm~ or in preparation df ,
doyop carve d by one of the food artists n, and ColOr
in Bulacan. ~ervlce
The intricate pattern IS called burdodo,
Spam.s h f or "embroid.e ry" becaus.e I. t s hows "" I II. 1~ r ~triklng color of FI' ,
the same fine detailing as applied In the ran from the wid I 'P' 'no fo Od COlli!
Filipinos are one of the few ASian peoples e varrety f s"
sewing ar ts . The first step is to remove condiments characte' . a IaUC!s a"
the insides of the lime with a small scoop, who do not eat with chopsticks, but with a . rrstlc of th '
until only the rind remains. A small sharp fork and spoon, Yet homes and restaurants Little( . platters of co/ omonsl, elalt CUisl,!
knife is then used to carve out the deSign. across the country still sometimes serve egg Itlog no mao/at) , chI'l 'l eI ('s i/in !/d dUCk
When held up against the light, the final green mangoes piokle ( 9 abuYOI
food with bone or shell splinters caused by , , I atcho "
carved rind is virtually translucent. This a few, bring an exciti raj, to na~~
is then usually preserved in syrup. Before haphazard cutting and chopping, Greater ng color PI,
the table, The 'Ind' 'd . a! ,t! ~
serving, each rind is stuffed with pastillos attention must be paid to proper cutting IVI uallty
by mixing one's OWn d' e'pr!11td
de leche, a traditional soft candy made of techniques and knife skills, to provide ( 'PPlng sa,
carabao milk and sugar. sawsawan) to Campi 'c~
greater control and evenness in cooking, , ement th! d'
IS characteristically Filip' Ilh~
This will naturally lead to less waste and Ina. So"so
and condiments should be Ie d ",-
better presentation, Since poultry and meat rye In Ima
plates, at home or in restaurant
vendors now provide pre-cut parts, the task I, al a' 11,
to define and enhance the u . '
is made a bit easier, This book specifies nlquenellof
Filipino food,
chicken cut into quarters and eighths or
Vegetables should be prepared so thai
pre-cut breasts and thighs rather than the
they are served crisp and Vibrant. It \
traditional bird chopped through the bone
important to understand the COoking tl~e
into 12 to 15 pieces for adobo,
of each vegetable, as well as when t.'ty
are to be mixed with other food, 10 trt
Basic cuts and terms
none of the ingredients are overCOO'ej
• Chop (hiwa, putol, tadtad) - Cutting
Vegetables should ideally be blanChed
into small pieces without specific
and then cooked at the last mometl
measurement.
just before serving, This is an Importa,'
• Mince (pinong hiwa 0 tadtad) - Used
technique to ensure that vegetablelrelalr
for aromatic vegetables, such as
shallots and garlic or herbs, This is a their vibrancy and the overall presentate"
fine, small chop,
is more appetizing,
• Shred (himav) - Used for leafy herbs
and vegetables, This is a fine strip Serve food freshly
·cut.
cooked and
pipin~
• julienne - Used for starchy root
vegetables to produce matchstick hot
sizes:
Fine julienne - '116 X 116 X 2 IN, , ortant pract C!
used for ubod for lumpia or ukoy Perhaps the most Imp fG:;j
. b ok IS to sme
julienne (matchstick or allumette) encouraged in thiS a ndQ':~
" hot. This may sou
- '/a x '/a x 2 IN, used for salads fresh and piping I t Ilage; at
nr' n the as
Batonnet - '/4 x '/4 X 2 IN obvious, but plan 9 b fore leNing
ge Just e
cooking to conver . The reCipC
• Dice - Produces cube-shaped cuts
anizatlon.
used for garnishes and vegetables, requires carefu I org dded step
. lude an a
Fine Dice I Brunoise - '/a x '/a x '/a IN in this book often Inc bl so r seaW'"
Small Dice I Macedoine of partially coo kI n 9 vegeta t emi nute >1"-tl
. h for a las • -d
and readying t em the table'G,a
- '/4 X '/4 X '/4 IN , sat .-
or boil so food arnve . food ,,~rl .-
Medium Dice I Parmentier h Filipino r «
fresh, Since muc derstand tr3
- '12 x ';' x '/2 IN it is also importan t to un es may n~ ~
large Dice I Carre -3/4 X 3/4 X 3/4 IN timing of other Process
20 I kUllNARYA I A Guidebook to Philippine Cuisine
be adjusted to coincide exactly with the poaching. This method uses water or
Oily fish is
completion of grilling, including the "rest a liquid (such as stock, a sauce, broth excellent for grill; T
aVOid .Iean fish or other food stiC~~· 0
time" for grilled meats. or soup) as a medium. Generally, It is
the grill, brush the grill well . h . 9 to
Important to select good quality, tender . Wit all. Also
remove fISh from the grill wh '.
d
1 ed ..111 plat('~ cuts of meat for dry-cooking methods about done. en It LS just
while the moist-heat cooking method is
Place the presenta!"
f Ion Side of the
certain to tenderize even the toughest
Since Filipino food is most often served all ood down first to create grill mark. tha.
cuts. are made by th ... I .
at once, "family style," and all the dishes e Inltla Intense heat 1
The following charts (see pages 22- f~ ~
are eaten on one plate (unlike the Western make a crOSS-hatch mark on the
practice of different courses served m23e) thdoedfsin aen dth cea tdeigffoerrizeen tt hFei lirpeicniope cso ino ktihnigs turn kt he f 00 d 9 0 degrees after the f 1II ,),,
mar S appear, When the mark .ch".
sequentially, and a change of plates for
book. turn the food over and cork .}
each dish or course), the cook must try
doneness. 1 urn only on'~
to visualize what will be left on the plate
when the meal is over. To limit the debris ~ ng" .inug To slow dov/' Or • pe'
Select tender cuts of meat because this locate the hot and nlJ
left on a plate, for example, chicken parts
fast, dry-heat cooking method does not If possible, have 0" ,.:
should be deboned and prawns peeled
allow the time nor moisture needed to high heat and ore"
beforehand.
tenderize tougher meat cuts. Covering the fo .J
flavor but Iner,_
Learn the cooking Always prepare the grill by cleaning it
burning.
with a wire brush and clean towel. It is
methods applied
111 important to use a very clean grill. Since grilling lJ'if
Filipino cui')ine Make sure the grill is very hot. It will method helps prevent
burnt on the outSide
be difficult to achieve the caramelized,
the inside. This .s par'
smoky flavor otherwise. Avoid flare-ups,
It is important to be familiar with the
pork and poultry, wLich <~
which happen when fat drips down on the
different cooking methods and how they
heat source. Flare-ups will char the food done. The first step is '0 p.' I J
apply to Filipino cuisine. Cooking methods
the meat by another methoc. fu. ~
may be divided into two major groups: dry and give it a burnt taste. Have a spray
by poaching it In its marinade fOi two
bottle of water on hand to put out the
heat and moist heat.
minutes, then finishing it on the gril, ThiS
Dry-heat cooking includes grilling, flames.
method also works well when preparing
broiling, frying, and sauteing. These Keep the skin on chicken and small
many portions (e.g. catering).
methods are characterized by the omission poultry to prevent the meat from drying
of water or liquid as a cooking medium. out. Be extra watchful to keep boneless
Moist-heat cooking includes simmering, chicken breasts from drying out. Keep
boiling, steaming, stewing, braising, and some fat on the meat.
Fish and Seafood
Grilling Times
• Barbecued Pork Chop I Inihaw • Whole tilapia: 2.5 minutes each
no Babay: '/2 in thick 1100 g. 6 side (200 g)
minutes each side (well done) • Whole bang us wrapped in
banana leaves: 3.5 -4.0 minutes
• Pork Barbecue (PAGE 55): 4
each side (500 g)
minutes each side.
• Butterflied bongus: 3 minutes
• Chicken Inasal thigh: 6.5
each side (500 g)
minutes each side (115 g)
• Bongus bellies: 2-3 minutes
• Chicken breast with wing: 7
each side.
minutes each side (190 g)
• Chicken cubes in a stick: 5.5
minutes each side (165 g)
Working ro~ards World-Class Cuisme I 21
Chick~" Iflu
Pork Barbe.
TortDng Tolor
Rtlltnong Tu .
Rtlltnong Bur,
Shrimp Ukoy
Oolng no Bang"
Beef Topo
Pork Torta
Pinaputok na /sda
Crispy Pata
Lechon Kawali
I¥mItbtt
;:, ... ,:J~1IDng Hubod
,~"o Gllisodo
Rtllenong Manak
Cassava Cake