EYEWITNESS TRAVEL KRAKOW EYEWITNESS TRAVEL KRAKOW Main Contributor: Teresa Czerniewicz-Umer Contents How to Use this Guide 6 Produced by Wydawnictwo Wiedza i Życie, Warsaw Managing Editor Ewa Szwagrzyk Series Editor Joanna Egert DTP Designer Paweł Pasternak Consultant Jan Ostrowski Production Anna Kożurno-Królikowska Contributors Teresa Czerniewicz-Umer, Andrzej Betlej, Piotr Krasny, Robert Makłowicz, Craig Turp Photographers Andrzej Chęć, Wojciech Czerniewicz, Piotr Jamski, Dorota and Mariusz Jarymowicz Illustrators Andrzej Wielgosz, Piotr Zybrzycki, Paweł Mistewicz The side arcade of Cloth Hall (see pp104–5) Printed and bound in China Introducing First published in the UK in 2000 by Dorling Kindersley Limited Krakow 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK Great Days 15 16 17 18 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 in Krakow 10 Reprinted with revisions 2003, 2007, 2010, 2013, 2015 Putting Krakow Copyright 2000, 2015 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London on the Map 14 A Penguin Random House Company All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored The History of Krakow 20 in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without Krakow at a Glance 40 the prior written permission of the copyright owner. ISBN 978-1-40937-020-8 Krakow through the Year 54 The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery-hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected] Icon of the Virgin of the Rosary Front cover main image: Krakow Cathedral on Wawel Hill in the Dominican Church (see pp118–19) View of the Wawel Royal Castle from across the Vistula River Survival Guide Practical Information 210 Getting to Krakow 220 Getting around Krakow 224 Street Finder Town Hall in Kazimierz, housing the Ethnographical Museum (see p125) 228 Krakow Travellers’ Needs Area by Area Where to Stay 176 Wawel Hill 60 Where to Eat and Okół and Stradom Drink 184 Quarters 76 Shops and Markets 196 Old Quarter 90 Entertainment in Kazimierz Quarter 120 Krakow 202 Pickled herrings General Index 238 Acknowledgments 254 Phrase Book 255 Musicians wearing regional Krakow costumes Wesoła, Kleparz and Biskupie 130 Piasek and Nowy Świat 142 Further Afield 154 Three Guided Krakow Cathedral Walks 166 on Wawel Hill (see pp66–7) (cid:2) 6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This Eyewitness Travel Guide is intended most important sights with photographs, to help you make the most of your maps and illust rations. It recommends stay in Krakow. It provides detailed short excursions out of Krakow and practical infor mation and expert offers three walks around the city. recommendations. Introducing Krakow Information about hotels, restaurants, tells you about the geographical location shops and markets as well as cafés, of the city, establishes Krakow in its bars, entertainment and sport can be historical context and guides you found in the section called Travellers’ through the succession of cultural events. Needs. The section headed Survival Guide The section on Krakow at a Glance takes has advice on everything from posting you through the tourist attractions in the a letter to using public transport to city. Krakow Area by Area describes the getting medical assistance. How to Use the Key Indicators Each of the six quarters has been colour coded the most interesting parts of the quarter. for your convenience. Each section gives an Finding your way round is made easy introduction to the area, its history and by the numbering system. This reflects the character. The Street by Street map shows order in which the descriptions are presented. Each area has its colour KRAKOW AREA BY AREA (cid:2) 143 coded thumb tabs. 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The most interesting part Key Suggested route of each sightseeing area is gOinve tnh efr aormea a m bairpd ’tsh-eey me voisetw . pbSIiSiAnnttt yi w l VKt Nmlthaalahieecrleseep h dtco naCoooirtreh ilizutganvu.hrsieantr ei’ycslsa ah d slHulrt yedonoo a lfisnoo qdp cfeu ia t eat.el d Fao wlar1 hncidec Cnmhth Kduaurrerakirvek coeosh lfwto htoph-ifMsee S dc osth eg aNutilłotrialccen hhrmgo ow uetlhtanaeesst. o4TimInmhfto e etmCnh rehiuaeonumc rVt urrieicsalr hnangthtt cioaenreolf C pMtutoohoga netrhrhtc yaetelh. pBista iroonq u e 00 myaerdtrses 5050 interesting sights are indicated and given a full description on the following pages. (cid:2) HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7 Krakow Area Map 18 (cid:2) INTRODUCING KRAKOW PUTTING KRAKOW ON THE MAP (cid:2) 19 T(tqgi1Astptt(sspoohha5huurl eaamem ee3ieloaiscaogd ) rts rope.e ecc ethiibIe xaser aon.c1rye . nrge Etlmo 6Y soeAKtfeaeo 6lua rduorsac t)auest lh.riheu1leuank-y es8w rc o g oy cscs– ocwmigoferiol1og diltcue b 9vaodhhaetsree)tsilidest tos ndritseaensoe negm di eldidGn fe n b (aid qatwlip cieaneltnpuulaah anorg a raetgtl icwi ekbshrsnee ststless gee it n 5yrh sg8oi s– u CCsMwsliCWclamieuhsheniaatuptrupndehilrjrnkaormocto cisrrghtrunrhaaa s at s nirtpl aasok nieK dgtsln Kfa(d y rcsehircmSrmncae aotTdoettee hkkaotsh mv nMohsepoib sienos wee eptwoyJal r u Rt9oe-taK’r f rsd t4ehwt uyie gaKuchbs–natezmiaeisn7eesaiyd lmth ) shi ria isb.sePqte nisniid-lar eslOxkauh tdaiattrsnnchoelzhonictdnokuc uer eqertcieg wrec Syysu ch s otKtsynb ae itWogya(onre ursnnrafrt,enawi a aeealttktedgshwrrgceh o pie oiintonsessew1 egu gg o 2tlrbcu h ug4fZTrooH oAia eeeee)thgtffyf.rig ny loitRlgetesl.ahdw,e mas ra1ean dt g6nn buenaAetr dinyddhdlasep st- .r tAaa sca teECh sthenr( A a Lhse.ae ntceA.e hca MleatI eChshuKeaIp E oapsWi rId eCgsKraZyep ARctljir rU6cnocSeohePZ7htCa.NciirA aZtin–ICLHtai.loACe ZZUec u8.Zpi RYKrcMnAnMRs N)SeAdeNOt.BStOTI,AguŃ.WE Acl WSee CRKlERriI eNETdYIsdxeGSqEEAOB SCKiZJARaBOW A JUS,vunA.Q Km LaWJeASoaÓJuKYnG.ApsRNDrC rAOPIRZGS.LKKANE Yta CtdlOHEO GMMhSeŁIPYeFDNrISÓCOWKL A SAHt.rOPRAEATOR YŁeKSLAsRKPOT. SA.IrUWWKŁ SMD DIKSŁSIZEUĘJSEKO.EIEUGGOBNZGSNOFELDICJANEKOCTWCJIKIKRSCACEaSAAARKKMRhBpZMIJŁuIuPYOSEEOSrLORENTAcŃSKAOKLLIGTchINEAECWhEiCOKŃOnFKATSKAWIAAŚKRNRSLUŁACKEOPC aIWBCNhrNASHCImuKCAThArSZOe uGcPtVAOlR DhiPiWArRtAsELLceOEntAGhuBnCOolLGaefAAF.Ś SPCTWRFRSAHJOBSZ..ZrŁ EOGAEWABZaDSODWKWONRUISEnKCGSANCMŁZNSOFCKCYKĘAcMGhSARoJABAaZhSiEaRJAOuNIlCsMAZiAuUtWlGWNZuCIScIrSuheVEŚNrETPSKLZCLRCCMacBsIPLcnOgPiWNeCEEOZlshLnAZhAIIAaoasŃiPGSdSiASCAŃ uEPtAsKOKynooZrCaJASLOtlmŃUffaKtaKDtlo. SiSyeAPlttŚKlCB ZAoPKthhBEIEKWODhhAnaIŃCBLeeRARAILIuCSu BhNS.nKEGHSIK rKlAAuTe IRfiŁEZcŚDAoAEWrtRaYrÓhKPeTK.nCrDZc lTNA WMImNOlhaYIuJKEOCEARSANŃL INOUrClKZGAa WRoWKetdSRIYOKEOutnAfDNKiSSiAE NAŁRnrtotAIASKCGRKOrahDWZZKAAenKAeAOlesWSKADŁUDGACSCSŚOTSWhS.OtP KhTLCMJCM RuACoAAAAMCPRNhau rUfDSahPAŁK OctuIeLhŚrSIrWAEuahMPhIN.E ArtFttcSCGŃeIr uLrMNKKi ecIJŚoSOMRIErAZAhSSncyRZAKhWIIrKAifrIYINKhEADCHnnK CMŚA .c RŃK SARNWNA.AŚSAWoUoOeaWdICM .ŁhGtEhKhSSLoSTUiTNERAOSfYfŁGnrTŃ.sEKRKuEKIO zRKAA uAmTY AesŃRuSPFUSAAoArDdKaMiSYwNSIAArtJZsocLWSArPfiKB CIEcARIhenTK.nP PtNK AHŚShISSA LuAoAaŚŃMaWoKNiZAMaWDWAcrPmrSAfuIE R.iP iLMKIaI yoĘC.tŚneYDElŚALS hAnmGWsWsSAhLA.EBU CteOEKkŁLTusC.SARJCi ZOBSBTEWnMiYrHKAKAŻCJAMRAWScAAiIRKAKAIScOhhtSOOSWIKA PaRZSTWDKuW ZFAACIoKInIJOlSETlIrI.AZaBEŚofAEO WGŻcO LELNNGnrAtDOhNO OIWCKhBWiIAAPAuP ŁtWaEATRONeEUoOOySnTDPAnBRTZOfBOLRLERNLRsN IROYCCFEMORZCPANWAAWETLENAohZZERŚA.ICoSCITK WELAYOKZTrIufhELT.Yp EIWArSMSABSuPBTJAWIEuAOEcRMJÓtOLBYRArM..h sAJI JZSŚcKCCPOK SKLoOCKWhTEIHAIOI.SAŁOKhLIEFUSN Ah PTZKG ES.AAZLoPAUTnBW PrUBAŃEWALoJf ErEł iKJB OADAISóoOsaRMtORBCAJSŁfAKthCSIEKfKNNEwkUNcAZi WCWB KRELAAeAtGAEAEKóDGINIoZ AhYKREnRTAWOZoSRKAwOHIDGZKZIAOWWmyIŁdCŁAreOAuWYOOASZKAdW WAŃ FĄerSKmKASCArrKASolZEReAOeKAupVmnBAiRCaPTOSSZJAdohTsOerADPusAzDJRWertÓuLROrG a.idWqc ÓBtCuthIRAŚ uheIlLSbmCWNuKsaAoayrmÓA rnct ŁhtacthSeTe chRoZpeuErLKfEetPC,l Ki atAOvonHha tAsnWeeiLniGcIuMgCSaKŚ tT.AmriLh lAoMmSĄouŃsItISMrEpKTcnCisKnyDpOtOÓrhIh tSgCuLŁ owiCSWouAoEnHuTet aCuJhstroAva PrKte1h oitceuKueInleeEe4OdelhrGdsrdg Ptt 1 (O c Etef, Meis aR 0AooCDhLnhm. Iw.Ne DrrsAhi SInreZ c e soK(YtuKamŃohcosAS h KraTnIpBGeErncfinGlieOacehcep autrdSeu hkue roro8dpm ao mofc tr2Pd C1rtooiqtwhua–enaz4euneyrun3knu0 mntraiiea)sessc)tletl.. l ite Nuns00K ymeayerdtSRRCrsetaaiatsiiyllrww swiaagayyhl lsltitnae3t0i3o00n0 For keys to symbols see back flap Numbered circles locate the listed Practical information provides everything you need to know to sights on the area map and within visit each sight. Map references pinpoint the sight’s location on the descriptive section. the Street Finder map (see pp228–37). 3 Detailed Information 98 (cid:2) KRAKOW AREA BY AREA OLD QUARTER (cid:2) 99 Each of the most interesting sights C2PMSar1MoPSawtstAtsHawchCofpamat(3KMASuooB1TG4esehhhhhqu2eert ttt83larfsafvulhoc eoapfcaahheaetlr t a cae8ieeeehriuiir0o9veMBtthcegełr muon lpgśnut avGyr oiibdSShc hiise1aa 4cc4rouaceChNwnycib rp pogriuste uapnR 1a5ieevmrp hhc.a rif yrMtrtiemeigatt supestay rwr yr abhrgóTdeay.e htCt0 oeu vo yhslCan st9r .atoodbiToelhh alvsd ahico0ła 4qlhieBM claT’ n’ rnem 6is sh ho cydrnoeynaan1.erepg sśv a Toarfe aldhuiki ( –aaaOg ernconuc ga6ifSc 3d wg it raihaKJn aobab seya’v8nlsrs7ts hao ceqptadaar9aittc DNttrb m h. nnre c eo.ac)tfradh vrbtnSP rgaolaepC9 e u M.ihi2wds aduBkah e apo ttgrre h cMn wktonVboet,i ,Var ta)hw ie s Betelau ia.a. hy.kailesuouywaw i r iclewerona-dauctb S8u sllpc lscaeelerersarhwdhll nolrisdaefu a hoethweoey rb’ht resb S e tto1os ehCiconotd wr eSer.ea glr h ńiBeniraeS, twiaen hdiaafcc hnnunrIeawCfst.nae uhrrmaeaat sa tra Mrgth haSatgoItt i trw4stiso f’1Mk merssttnaywtstr heie oht eet ’tbism ehouhas7s aa(crssne wwqodd eo6 ine sae s as.d a nrl9efc o s rs , i r nr y s Daeri dtV 6 kvbuioyna fni’csrs i2bir oe.pc’ era soe c)Sage u n. n imltsTd ii eAd. rnle toe f sl e Kat ts1 ru a 2dk eoxrSnwqt, uo Sta4RSwcBsPaDpmft erem eonoeaMeyuTEeofpoNtetiLsabttsoLbioioersniitohhhndtetlypaan vgnv afcfrmyrrr i huhsMrwds po nmsi oeeeiirejjsee c1t Ktudigignenkktinyi Shgcpaht oencbesrcnnoo2eloortlairvML’iiigbkrstfgsyyvivsan1nnrea seehwtl8traa eua inennn ia al yao e cGct0p ko1tP1n iegLs a a gyaG7GnejnlcncutiiknwcPA eseat k,t .oluhV0kkldrii58e moh Fmmlora.ieoooi n a notB rsatoAt ktk sec ,łsd–cPwweZhlaOe se8tuG1shohioróihr mrmkr opeod łn iejtoctor1sho pot rcstaoum1itwdictibmyr64efr.kfre dn1m,ctteneorwwh ier nt h0e rtsnw hn fmake5lp ea iscweleo li1huot ohcS 4ioSir k tsSe tCb3oeta teehlrtns Kfhn ihtnseuan readnoi uh5he emqkveoar8rdsoil te.Waag,nnuhhtoeoirn tit My ernae tmns o r ehscsd han v zyaiue8mihofd relitacntsraMu o -ci s nmsa n kiyry smhipdresetopetfiwsita tuS c eSsnkca nenee kn ggrhrcnhh t,srtnosuosbtt.c aerrm ttu doeistoo oyaon derllpeeiha’ dheevJT olgeh iehaa oire hrqmine rtunbasswnte tp TavMmwasry r ekd .heir yhucgu retadefs i uh1aaaa otCpcr1pTh,enmtyeCketa sh u et e r ogondutceTińr eenm 5tupt aebdhi L ohre 5usubteul rrhwh tc teathlaet1thshsr ar isseaese1ratod reec nhua3rSdltahybache rk ti o akew 9diyctaytsujea o d aty8ii anil q tvtk6ir tseb as ie ndea0 iua’t fn te,.hW rscrw r ofowe htaP rugwl ita totu iesy,i4c a .lixt a hJsnenehn t1hys tni ao em s y a hiue eh hie eirtrt5o reaiet. p ks.d et, hesjeah e d otI e yn ràu . n.he r e i b n k Tli -yt,hg n s e . 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A timeline indicates important dates in the history of the building. The Prussian Homage (1882) by Jan Matejko