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Krakow PDF

258 Pages·2018·159.084 MB·English
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Krakow EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Krakow Main Contributor Teresa Czerniewicz-Umer Produced by Wydawnictwo Wiedza i Życie, Warsaw Introducing Krakow Managing Editor Ewa Szwagrzyk Series Editor Joanna Egert DTP Designer Paweł Pasternak Great Days in Krakow 10 Consultant Jan Ostrowski Production Anna Kożurno-Królikowska Putting Krakow on the Map 14 Contributors Teresa Czerniewicz-Umer, The History of Krakow 20 Andrzej Betlej, Piotr Krasny, Robert Makłowicz, Craig Turp Krakow at a Glance 40 Photographers Andrzej Chęć, Wojciech Krakow through Czerniewicz, Piotr Jamski, Mosaic detail in the Church of the the Year 54 Dorota and Mariusz Jarymowicz Sacred Heart of Jesus Illustrators Andrzej Wielgosz, Piotr Zybrzycki, Paweł Mistewicz Printed and bound in China First American Edition, 2000 17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 2003, 2007, 2010, 2013, 2015, 2018 Copyright 2000, 2018 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A Penguin Random House Company All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. Pretty gardens at Wawel Royal Castle ISSN 1542-1554 ISBN 978-1-46546-792-8 The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Title page Wawel Royal Castle, skirted by the Planty Front cover main image Peering at the Church of St Mary from the Cloth Hall Back cover main image Boats docked alongside Wawel Royal Castle Contents Krakow Travellers’ Survival Guide Area by Area Needs Wawel Hill 60 Where to Stay 178 Practical Information 212 Okół and Stradom Where to Eat Getting to Krakow 222 Quarters 76 and Drink 186 Getting Around Krakow Old Quarter 90 Shops and Markets 198 226 Kazimierz Quarter 120 Entertainment 204 Street Finder 230 Wesoła, Kleparz General Index 240 and Biskupie 130 Acknowledgments 254 Piasek and Nowy Świat 142 Phrase Book 255 Further Afield 154 Detail, Benedictine Abbey in Tyniec Three Guided Walks 168 Café seating at the Cloth Hall, with views of the Market Square Church of St Mary 6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE This Eyewitness Travel Guide is intended the main sights with maps, photographs to help you make the most of your stay and illustrations. It recommends short in Krakow. It provides detailed practical excursions out of Krakow and offers information and expert recommendations. three walks around the city. Information IIInnntttrrroooddduuuccciiinnnggg KKKrrraaakkkooowww tteellllss yyoouu aabboouutt tthhee about hotels, restaurants, shops and geographical location of the city, markets as well as cafés, bars, enter­ establishes Krakow in its historical context tainment and sport can be found in and describes events that take place Travellers’ Needs. The Survival Guide throughout the year. Krakow at a Glance has advice on everything, including is an overview of the city’s attractions. using your mobile phone, getting Krakow Area by Area guides you through around on public transport and the city’s sightseeing areas and describes obtaining medical assistance. Krakow Area by Area Krakow has been divided into six colour-coded numbered and located on an Area Map. The Street- sightseeing areas. Each area begins with a short bbbyyy---SSStttrrreeeeeettt mmaapp tthhaatt ffoolllloowwss ffooccuusseess oonn tthhee mmoosstt portrait, which sums up the area’s character interesting part of the area. Finding your way and history, and a list of key sights. Sights are around is made simple by the numbering system. Each area has colour-coded KRAKOW AREA BY AREA143 thumb tabs. 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This gives a bird’s-eye view of Key Suggested route the heart of each sightseeing area described in the guide. pbSIiSiAnnttt yi w l VtK Nmlthaalahieecrleseep h dtco naCoooirtreh ilizutganvu.hrsieantr ei’ycslsa ah d slHulrt yedonoo a lfisnoo qdpcfeu iat eat.el d Fao wlar1 hncidec Cnmhth Kduaurrerakirvek coeosh lfwto htoph-ifMsee S dc osth eg aNutilłotrialccen hhrmgo o wutelhtanaeesst. o4TimInmhfto e etmCnh rehiuaeonumc rVt urrieicsalr hnangthtt cioaenreolf C pMtutoohoga netrhrhtc ayetelh. pBista iroonq ue 00 myaerdtrses 5050 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7 Krakow Area Map 18INTRODUCING KRAKOW PUTTING KRAKOW ON THE MAP19 TpstfAIsyiaysnnuhiauoolhprgst lemiguuKil1oeshsya gr8 rr ge tta bscec–sseo eukoseoeec1s oltill ocevtf9doioa wenteild)becunoi dgro iu.aalnrgeu e n-Ewtrptdd rc ei aa tnal( ocai oacricstg neoldGehc hako a deeestt letaorshe h isdp i(n nmef.ssede p Yg emntc te5thooAeeh thsa8a a seurpectlre–tptslh er1 oeaw1sei ie6b( iw s5 sxbi8 i el3es lys)m de). m. ainoin re CCwcaJOaCWclaehhnrhenlihcwutdudundehhir crrm ict Qiasccirhhttnhhatahseu o irhl caesaok hpK tsat sKrfi(yu r, tsssirWmSr mnaeea ctrtTite oehkkrtaaotha m M oshe oprtasiwa swyhe eptowrlJa n , Rte9eoee K’wr rswd 4ewl uyidi aKcr bs–nn Htzehmair s7esaida lpmtiihc) sirllasl.soitlelh svisn.id-elade O kahaTidatitrdnsneohphelznitdnkocer ur eetqdwineg wdeecS u s s ottsr pynbida tit.oty(n ne urrahseKnute,eawti lev alrtaeoteedghargeh c p ictoikinoslssse 1logoio gg e x2stspufhu wc 4 ZTroouo cmeemeett)hffyfra.’hig s icRtrganse aheo ie mirm1n e nundbc6 tuaA neieptsstindhlsd.i yrpfgst- eo iasc ainhCs sseun(A sgh tLs.ntcinA.seihda MevtIeetCdueKpIe eh EaepW r IeagClKireyZpiynARclnlr U6 ceS h fwPZg7thCa.oNiA hZt–LCIH ta.eAC eraZZUe8.eZp R KYclMArRMesN)ASl eNte.SBtO-OTIxAŃu.WE AlpS Wae KCRERprIilENTYIsrxGsedSEEAOBlSC eKAJZRBaO,W AJoSU nA.KmseQ LWJrAoSeÓaJKiYGu.pARDNrnC OAPIGZrRLS.KKNcAE YtCHOlEvaO GMMhSgeŁhIYPNDFIÓSCOWerKLA SAH . 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Map references pinpoint the sight’s location on the descriptive section. the SSStttrrreeeeeettt FFFiiinnndddeeerrr mmaapp (see pp230–39). 3Detailed Information 9988KRAKOW AREA BY AREA OLD QUARTER99 Each of the most interesting sights C22PMSar1MoPSawtstAtsHawchCofpamat(3KMTMABuooSTGesehhhhhuqeee tr ttt8larfvasfulhoc eoaopfcaahheaetl rt a caelieeeehriuiir0oevMBtthce gełr muonnlpgśnut1 avGyroiibdchSS hiiseaa 4ccrouaceCNwhnyci–b rp2 pogriuste uapn R1aieevmrphh c.arif SyMrrtti emeigtta supeasy rtr4 yrabhrgóTdeaye. hatCt eu hov yshlCan ts9 r2.atoodbiToelhh alvtsd ahicoał 4qliMBec la’T n’r,n8aem 6is hs oh c nrdyoeynaanerepg sśv a 2rafeaToldhu ki ( t–aaag 1enrnoc ugC6icfS ,dw g –it arihaJKn o ba b sea’yv8nlwsr7s5ats oa eqta3daaaritch DNttbr mh t. nnre c e.oac)ftradh vr:bn P grl0oaa pa e u aM3.iuShid2 sadBka he po atgrre c0M hwtkoVbnceto0ti, sVarta) wires etea lu i.a..h k.yailseuuoBy pwt ic r iclewerona-hOtc bSu8s lc lpsucaeaelereramrhwdhhll noisdaef a ohetweeore b’ht rsep aS e tto1bose Cionotd wee Sr .eglrr hńBinwera Se,lt Sweaaen hiaafc ennulIawCfst.nae uhrrurmaeaynsat tra Mrgth aSta otIati t4wstsio f1Mk mn erstnt aytstr’ hei o hsd9e set ’tbims ehouhas7. aa(rssn wwqodd aeo6ni e saas s.b d a nfrel9c m rs i , rn ty D aeri SdtV u6kuobyneai’–csrts 2i eoi.p’s era sl6e )atg n. np li eAmdrno fs e K tat ruadkeoxSnrwqt, uo Sta4RSfcsS1iaDoftn rretm eont5foMeyuTETCfpoNtetiLLLsabttsoLbioa ensiiohhhP3idMepyKaaaanm hvgvagfrfyrrrnh uhsMd ap nmi ooeeei6irejjjjeer 1 uctKugignenerkkkkcinyiSaganph o ecter incnl2soooormtcirrLLLMv’1iigssbiskistogrshyvks1nnreasdedoedwts8taaa at ihnnnn e ya al3 a odcoG0n kipcb1hiaieLs a a gyaieG7n ejjjlcntn,iiiikwPr’iu at9nkkkt 1. isolSm0kkkkahldrtwise8h yowdlamort.e iooacions nat roooAt pk.is c ,ł4sy5–c okw Zh aO etsntu sstr hiooórbpmrawkroneBod łnnnp jta wstooh1hace h att1rsatm1wotictirmwyaf .rhkt tdn,etcrnwrr uwueiiihedr da hi0t trnswrlcre 8oampkkkeeef5 eaiiawtnoiil hoohhc e i gSkktsktorete b3orltaw eyheelhnsos ny ttn suaaeenrrn iJuwsiheee mqvcesi mie1e .Wargennul htea eeri tosiJt n Madur tmtaros ahee cssbisho znaybwu mohw 3 ei tccndsittdMieu - ok f peCntaktmoyryoo shinetoithsswtyianutSco eee9nsmneeo esu g rhah h k,srenno ouootrt.nawedr sh tlluepii sl sciya9r dpVeeheenra ryeevvosTobahaeihdroirtrermmqe rmtts.o nt nee ai.,efa ys eekpdel .haeiirt oy ht cunter ef it uie ayaImtCpF1pcT,wemWrnsmthreet auos ssn eecia u e hr negtufeTńeegds nm bttu utbhL .4oestuo lf hfe htkc f aahs ta ul1htrs hsGt . asraeruP eyto1s dSrecry 1n usSl ceera thttio t oekaeA9icanyctcti jpa iciclt j5 a inhohq v5kaci tran aoiie oGdeem0maot hnfh,td.ivhru oae8 P rughte leits ot,sk t4u nla x s ee huaetnond B1lhy6hhir a e l , pser nP ta 1err irrit5vori eeoiite’khcem.bstc tetcnotda4 h etdnrhàru fe dhe ilhrgel8 e iaereba i erTrl , s y-8 sn e h,n nh e ss Lajjk eoP5PRMC&TmKarafoiScbMsthThctbtcifteumnooneoohheryreondhitevrfapoiauiumci sm rlu aonkauTe evlnebLmdikCstpłcl li stasake∑dKhalteKs h scee roect.erd acoh olodra koet1yueirhcbaTseumessr aris idarrr eu: a rwteG6bszn haymtr - iC iytttKOypmlrno esedsyneim8, thłacz egeoeim, ótho)b tcec r arlapwnn od5n,haew osla.fcw ezryfrs h e rlt ePftett ieuN t tok artiotpa izieby hSt CanidKsenht o oh i.e tscothefniuohorhspstpytyrenhs y ienlreenza1pmu xfKba zecazr lftw ea ab3u kJl0 tbp ktWthanrem eostio5r nccaoyctealaesaho da,hz ur ted. bcoewcfamm o ipdrsekowoooew Mi ntfeiisah.to,srmem.ooblys ea:pd –des dapwalhweaTpaltsofl slwctl5rkozkltm.hagopieeipleos ooyln:hoohaaieIoca3endcl mcrndu tnas by( 1 egrrn0iooe:1 regSkeow ecrieotaw npKedf2’ke1 Cumdseisohsi ritolyu,m n1ahcsr cs an 64ter4gelid tonaatf g saonpte4t gsi28ol s a a v(hcefk.eTenaKr 6n h tm6 et2 nonpuIihoto tthla eeern sttl Dh 5ioedtda saw du vei-r cfe h0n –e2 k t l i eittto dth S)aan go6h hi.iyn unod nse0gw ete ne n. ro . ftoor mthae7SSU6WWRRMAUwMtLTHoTrfTTodgf8PR11NTomTtSuudToiehhhue02ayyyrhhhhhenupnnonfoeoinau oeesmrea ennnp eebiirtpreveeei4antdklddlv dseepntg r–s)ir eeelCmytTTRhy p–c2e.i l etekSsii toheeOTżżl7lkkkl ezoGpt BcMhpee6uh epdyaitss eoorom otnaarrded0il ysocGGGoa r1m.mnt hoiny Whg e5 aitwegdoeMwot a&Mr coet0łłłre osRRaww0mrmL:teunmróóó n:ieS svCykhe:b e4ll ih1on euelTyu lwwwoaaeat16l cqdeli reem–0i-io-eeee i ruocrindge0g0fr(snWttntct hnnnnnrt5:u aard .gtl(n3rk euethuuhae. nfaein oho Co 2tyyya. sr11a oT 0Oek m t2etec lurtR oHl d dssm ,-wl322lro d8ra111ry eh toHiHH0hHppiTaazzuamevtu– ys m0p ...g owo 44 usvlhheSy1a1aneoo MMMunht8:lnom nsem22h eamo n– fq nni90eatpaandeTbwwsenocutfud66.aaakh-5uc o t-u myp ∑hMs ud iHAhl tsfahepppe:h)lu44llHtie2liaa3 h r a sonetceps yt nal Kat ll 33ohiont 0ve di11s iasirceT , arnu r s avnm dripd aeib mu 33tam–bTTaltdoeogCCcua te l, nom n.i B44. Ouv s1rMlr natoitkwi44phhemooiy Tde..arsoaehdate s 8ic on tkOnsyd oeh ld((s.(t neu,nrTtun dl6644t, ww.lwed eoano:t anppeat oeo oc rp twrui6a1DDhil lH qcnnv rlee olywoyphf mft40yi.eae e22f a inneer ,ufdgda.wpa l iv t ba cnt)) lo tt&T lhm..hel sm e ehlsidorria uTc,en n.ei dod –teeesr e aMegr y . l)n el ;. a rketC9KROTiApoCasccmmit snSrhuyeohsnro pqautolnuoe hcnuieewe derśnehSanhscdat gnrcihksrseuecutiae ee i s emt ai8oGuhlócrao r lnfso: rmy nł3tmen łnaaóAS id fc0t dvtcdślsw aith la t sAe wee cth ldhamnches cde mlcmireyehe.a leol–hc roa llWx v3uebrse5uhonntehe.e pmr lthtsalaMoroc eridbhmtbebierlh lajnryoaeyaouceoi yi ned tpg stnoigmbf jls eatoaMo o.Ss1 f y lriaTn ceirl u gat Sy ndoCetnhw rhnd.riAtk 4 ifc&n’deK elsd a isA deaaatt(p e rs6 hmanlnSdaa y l qfavD lkc a ibuo1tyinoi3lnoaebe1rs)dwreg.n. ert esth . tr -t t9csGairdSwUitswfcwtdSnnoerhhtqhantq9eanoyyhahtcf ueeru7udAtuvle ltdtlrNKbwwnatrcil36eiitin euana.ccheeirn reahgrdo aenecBracuTseidorhhdylra6hritogmraae toert,dcha veh mceio o sgepsaholrf dlk ,K,ihopr ,e boef dra r suo souoamritarebvod noauaipt m o enw hionimolduwsaqaathdnsevwamrnuoerurvb rm drir ltrueeaewonst eornccigceiasei ne ,.u lit oanaa dsl e tarrfhuRg lbgtsraae lxhadKtgos fl lui,e ttti.tomgibhn l a hetslbnn s .e tstaitslhotse dkotsr s metnoTe.hhipuodsyddtmh a birhufoeT fs hc- hne en i msl a ettRstWwaitrhootl ecarittae tai heagiendheoh mmunyheeinhiyt Ptt Kaogso vecc ełlhide.wexnrhetesRrate n wneeeeneh ttr vhmcu seoeis am b yidlM s agadt ysw ohadeqaaorsiioorsonphu srli y ivs ionwnpii ueeexavotbeffdishnoWenelsiisa saitdlrv daaraeeebvtlkm sd ł o oruCk teyehtetanana e r ar l cijeiafhori losei sarrenwaslr sceseueaent a e,n cn t I aedg hs irtrsIls den rtnn , set .ey attsa d ho tarr ttevaoboa ehtnebelhifiaen seo-g Sf ypscobgr nh h itoatre nelby,ttoohyu mhetfal rjeeyoesadnerst e srersd EAddCa Pc ttn.wb sne xiiaaliohotordfstofaiudf tthatffe nltehelichreaee ioonr rpl glersidcaerssotucawieitde p. ocntl.taugtr otrte ntetarrueiptahusn t ahrhtproldcaee r s ndmeaeeeprftt .t wttahuss dr tdseMbahhiqteho irdiikrrosuaeineptedaiasei fhoesg st s tl nroCteiai. i, , deh e lotf tyta faicaruehnlsec on lthitlnlc n. csaehe hma steethdis ceh .qnechm h attt tedeouo daiiGpeoo bxrcsef n ac ddhteiil oScesssolhlaaattt.miasrsoh ivyy Stnytaie ihst ttrtcgdo aitnPmt hhhe bwo jfndeeeo esfii ehritseanahłrn aul waldae, emcpmept sbihr ccelpeoirasfrrielnobti neirveenemdgi ddfnn oaeio cuniysrnne m m Tnuo s dhest,arb heeeedotfede ipuevpor ltitrsA ensoih ,nfi nr ,oti.pe fT1n(. s6oh5eiio.Y52ea Zlan 0r nlfZ lyt,y )lyagir rsa1goimn o1tm hcms gdutneuMoinla nnlutma’tws slrT bg ea oetuecnawyelshodl rt ea.i niirsnhwot i td mPho nioepol orupeateon iwitduhg..ne clnarIr trn, lwc 2akore v smgitg tfiy ishnlis v hso i nsaiKiuetrdtdna. KeHTioinnoo hdfi g11etwwPWTZoMN1S1T@Vh67 heu2 rhyroeJpd4toaia alg:naih3vAs we n9gn1cmnm1 –0 -iccn–i l2ntehs2,cM–bt TuiS o 1pl 8a Aec44 AyaaaanHa oo,soap2.Nrn p tdlrt5tPit,l9rmtt: lrt o v rr T2al1–pti9I u oeov3n32r2 OhhassorS.n 3w.t.:fmw y&3ucrMw’’v ot 2e ,ee0tn CCGK–ar:1Crea– .,m4s9r dd.ehHp 5rC8R a 3paCfcmprao lku,mm3iaE oorrsmty6ol ttbisC ma–C7, hmow bMe aa8li51Se cnKTdim,.apu osd ko(1ll s5hnmlnrEim 0ia, Ds;ao– Ci , lo ss,bsSa1p 5itnayso8e)Ts:.,te , rn , , 4 e06d. 7 Numbered circles point out TrSR.uhuelrnie sZmra csyio shgosuamfan pnthtueceelne di stJ m b aaCgya hm isaeat aleglpourieplnstloi iedalcenoeu md.myen ,o iatfs ittshy a.e key features of the sight. tWhKdaeTaaeno hczcKdfSiłe omait tnt hawrthagionee,et dp ireAp szCo dłdo aam(a taCwfwtr lth aob oihatsenefheind m rP s dttfrao,oaai Crilllun)al:.l ertno sssdct to k atfo t Tuwoewesr e isr 4HKirsatokoricw b’su Mildaiinng Ss iagrhe tdsissected 17ctRhhe-amcpeeonFldrt faueenrlalycet eudBsro ecinloso t gTBhhnaeeer b1sCPe9ireu otarhcitr, i ot“cfiIicsexl tkiGno Gitun uCie orbhryvcya,a i tnptnhhoenies”li. taflono dore rgv peallaaleln trshie eesni rha iabnvltieen rcgioo yrlsoo. uuMr t-uocso fiednuedmd s ETTcetwoKwwhrhhnnanhhaeezeet tsaeotr ir e mhatbbncasunneeooo nitrdc e mnnehdcrer e”eeeoeoz .pih ss ygfoAtl a ehtnoorfchn ate ffcietse gl oaalh Gd. t nnwraTeh.rd bh e““eoCiaaonea rnnaitl vgndlt,cce eh id iittt weeeoitutannhed irlll ttreielron a Kcgfglo e mnde h1123KaElfBBZY oaaełfrlul ot tshqokeuwi e1Ce 8shrptahipr ceee lfnrotumry the first 10001st0o2n0eC Lloo(C1asfc0y aotkit9h-n hoc0egena– Cdl o1lterahf1a dtet4lhh CHb2eelu deo Sfirrcolematkucl Toanonndw)da et i1ro2nC15 a30t2h0e–d6r4al T bhuiridlt 1521 The bZeylgl mhu1un5ng0t 1CBB0aa5hrr1attp9oo–elloo3l mmb3u eeZioolyt g BBbmeeyrr u1Crreen6accn2t1Ccc o66iihp–6a9yp4 –eeS7lrt e b6Scu tVtai1ealntd7zias5ł a0w1BZCi7a’hssł 5haup8os–kepi6l ’ sb6 uilt important exhibits. A timeline indicates important dates in the history of the building.

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