International Studies in Entrepreneurship Nancy J. Hodges Albert N. Link Knowledge- Intensive Entrepreneurship An Analysis of the European Textile and Apparel Industries International Studies in Entrepreneurship Series editors: Zoltan J. Acs George Mason University Fairfax, VA, USA David B. Audretsch Indiana University Bloomington, IN, USA More information about this series at http://www.springer.com/series/6149 Nancy J. Hodges • Albert N. Link Knowledge-Intensive Entrepreneurship An Analysis of the European Textile and Apparel Industries Nancy J. Hodges Albert N. Link Department of Consumer, Apparel, Department of Economics and Retail Studies University of North Carolina at Greensboro University of North Carolina at Greensboro Greensboro, NC, USA Greensboro, NC, USA ISSN 1572-1922 ISSN 2197-5884 (electronic) International Studies in Entrepreneurship ISBN 978-3-319-68776-6 ISBN 978-3-319-68777-3 (eBook) https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-68777-3 Library of Congress Control Number: 2017954914 © Springer International Publishing AG 2018 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation, broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. 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Printed on acid-free paper This Springer imprint is published by Springer Nature The registered company is Springer International Publishing AG The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland Contents 1 Setting the Stage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 The European Textile and Apparel Industries: An Institutional and Literature Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 3 Trends in the European Textile and Apparel Industries . . . . . . . . . . . 29 4 The AEGIS Database . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 5 Characteristics of KIE Textile and Apparel Firms and Founders . . . 53 6 Sources of Knowledge Used by KIE Textile and Apparel Firms . . . . 81 7 T he Strategic Behavior of KIE Textile and Apparel Firms . . . . . . . . . 105 8 T he Entrepreneurial Performance of KIE Textile and Apparel Firms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 9 T he Antecedents of Entrepreneurial Performance in KIE Textile and Apparel Firms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 10 P rescriptions for Growth for US Textile and Apparel Firms . . . . . . . 145 11 Concluding Remarks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 v List of Figures Fig. 1.1 Representation of direct and indirect paths from sources of knowledge to entrepreneurial performance .................................... 14 Fig. 3.1 Annual growth rate in industrial production in the EU textile and apparel industries, 2002–2013 .......................... 32 Fig. 3.2 Annual growth rate in employment in the EU textile and apparel industries, 2002–2013 ..................................................... 32 Fig. 3.3 Annual growth rate in hours worked in the EU textile and apparel industries, 2002–2013 ..................................................... 33 Fig. 3.4 Annual growth rate in labor productivity per person employed in the EU textile and apparel industries, 2002–2013 ......... 33 Fig. 6.1 Illustration of mean firm responses about the importance of factors for the formation of the company, by industry ................... 84 Fig. 6.2 Illustration of mean firm responses about the importance of alternative sources of knowledge for exploring new business opportunities, by industry ............................................. 86 Fig. 6.3 Representation of direct and indirect paths from sources of knowledge to entrepreneurial performance .................................. 103 Fig. 7.1 Representation of direct and indirect paths from sources of knowledge to entrepreneurial performance .................................. 105 Fig. 7.2 Illustration of mean firm contribution of factors in creating and sustaining the competitive advantage of the company, by industry .............................................................. 109 Fig. 7.3 Illustration of mean firm agreement to statements about the sensing and seizing of opportunities within the firm, by industry ........................................................................................ 117 Fig. 8.1 Illustration of descriptive data on measures of entrepreneurial performance, by industry ..................................... 137 Fig. 9.1 Representation of the indirect paths from sources of knowledge to entrepreneurial performance .................................. 144 Fig. 10.1 Annual growth rate in US employment in the textile mills industry, 2006–2015 ................................................................. 148 vii viii List of Figures Fig. 10.2 Annual growth rate in US employment in the textile product mills industry, 2006–2015 ................................................... 149 Fig. 10.3 Annual growth rate in US employment in the apparel industry, 2006–2015 .......................................................................... 149 Fig. 10.4 Textile fibers (HS codes 50–53, 55, and 63) import and export, 2006–2015 ...................................................................... 152 Fig. 10.5 Textile (NAICS 313) domestic shipment (Production), 1997–2012......................................................................................... 152 Fig. 10.6 Textile yarn, fabrics, made-up articles, NES, and retail products (HS codes 50–60, 63, and 65) import and export, 2006–2015......................................................................................... 153 Fig. 10.7 Apparel (NAICS 315) domestic shipment (production), 1997–2012......................................................................................... 153 Fig. 10.8 Articles of apparel and clothing accessories (HS codes 61, 62, and 65) import and export, 2006–2015 ............... 154 List of Tables Table 1.1 Characterization of the static versus dynamic roles of an entrepreneur ............................................................................. 5 Table 1.2 Definitions of knowledge-intensive entrepreneurship (KIE) ............ 8 Table 3.1 Taxonomy of the European textile industry ..................................... 30 Table 3.2 Taxonomy of the European apparel industry .................................... 31 Table 3.3 Number of EU textile industry enterprises, by country, 2005–2014 ..................................................................... 35 Table 3.4 Number of EU textile industry employees, by country, 2005–2014 ..................................................................... 37 Table 3.5 Number of EU apparel industry enterprises, by country, 2005–2014 ..................................................................... 39 Table 3.6 Number of EU apparel industry employees, by country, 2005–2014 ..................................................................... 41 Table 4.1 AEGIS sampling population and survey sample, by country ......................................................................................... 48 Table 4.2 Distribution of AEGIS firms, by country and by sector ................... 49 Table 4.3 Distribution of AEGIS firms in the European textile and apparel industries, by country .................................................... 50 Table 4.4 Segmentation of EU industries, by sector ........................................ 52 Table 5.1 Distribution of AEGIS firms in the European textile and apparel industries, by country .................................................... 55 Table 5.2 Characteristics of textile and apparel firms ...................................... 56 Table 5.3 Correlation matrix among firm age, number of full-time employees, number of part- time employees, and percent of workers that are part-time employees, by industry ........................................................................................ 58 Table 5.4 Characteristics of textile and apparel firm founders ......................... 59 Table 5.5 Human capital and financial capital characteristics of textile and apparel firms ............................................................... 60 Table 5.6 Percent of textile founders by most recent occupational experience, by country (n = 91) .................................. 63 ix x List of Tables Table 5.7 Percent of apparel founders by most recent occupational experience, by country (n = 84) ........................................................ 64 Table 5.8 Correlation matrix among founder age, education, and experience, by industry .............................................................. 65 Table 5.9 Firm founder characteristics in the textile and apparel industries, by gender ..................................................... 66 Table 5.10 Characteristics of nascent entrepreneurs and established entrepreneurs in firms in the textile and apparel industries ....................................................................... 68 Table 5.11 Annotated literature review related to financial capital .................... 70 Table 5.12 Annotated literature review related to nascent entrepreneurs ................................................................... 78 Table 6.1 Mean firm responses about the importance of factors for the formation of the company, by industry ................. 84 Table 6.2 Mean firm responses about the importance of alternative sources of knowledge for exploring new business opportunities, by industry ........................................... 86 Table 6.3 Mean textile firm responses about the importance of factors for the formation of the company, by country (n = 91) ........................................................................... 88 Table 6.4 Mean apparel firm responses about the importance of factors for the formation of the company, by country (n = 84) ........................................................................... 89 Table 6.5 Mean textile firm responses about the importance of alternative sources of knowledge for exploring new business opportunities, by country (n = 91) .............................. 90 Table 6.6 Mean apparel firm responses about the importance of alternative sources of knowledge for exploring new business opportunities, by country (n = 84) .............................. 91 Table 6.7 Correlation matrix between the importance of factors for the formation of the company from the perspective of textile firms (n = 91) ................................... 94 Table 6.8 Correlation matrix between the importance of factors for the formation of the company from the perspective of apparel firms (n = 84) ................................................................... 95 Table 6.9 Correlation matrix between the importance of alternative sources of knowledge for exploring new business opportunities from the perspective of textile firms (n = 91) ............. 97 Table 6.10 Correlation matrix between the importance of alternative sources of knowledge for exploring new business opportunities from the perspective of apparel firms (n = 84) ................................................................... 99 Table 7.1 Mean firm responses about the contribution of factors in creating and sustaining the competitive advantage of the company, by industry .......................................... 108
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