Kimberley Coast

44 Pages·2017·5.29 MB·English

Kimberley Coast
01 June - 11 June 2018 | Coral Expeditions I Pioneering expedition travel to the heart of nature

ABOUT US
Aurora Expeditions embodies the spirit of adventure, travelling to some of the most wild adventure and discovery. Our highly experienced expedition team of naturalists, historians and
and remote places on our planet. With over 25 years’ experience, our small group voyages destination specialists are passionate and knowledgeable – they are the secret to a fulfilling
allow for a truly intimate experience with nature. and successful voyage.
Our expeditions push the boundaries with flexible and innovative itineraries, exciting Whilst we are dedicated to providing a ‘trip of a lifetime’, we are also deeply committed to
wildlife experiences and fascinating lectures. You’ll share your adventure with a group of like- education and preservation of the environment. Our aim is to travel respectfully, creating
minded souls in a relaxed, casual atmosphere while making the most of every opportunity for lifelong ambassadors for the protection of our destinations.
DAY 1 | Friday, 1 June 2018
DARWIN & JOSEPH BONAPARTE GULF
Position: 19:00 hours Course: 246° Wind Speed: 10 knots Barometer: 1011 hPa & steady
Latitude: 12° 55’ S Speed: 9.7 knots Wind Direction: SE High Water: 6.8 m at 07:52 hours
Longitude: 129° 20’ E Low Water: 2.6 m at 14:01 hours
It seems slightly presumptuous to even think it possible to ever understand this strange As Darwin receded into the distance we gathered once again for Steve to give as a preview
and fantastic landscape… but hopefully, with a willingness to observe and absorb, we of our voyage ahead, and dive us some more detail about our first day of activities.
might at least be able to penetrate past the view of the Kimberley as mere scenery.
Our post-prandial presentation featured Naturalist Dave – an informative session about the
— Alasdair McGregor and Quentin Chester, The Kimberley – Horizons of Stone
Kimberley Seasons. Later, Alasdair provided us with a thorough and engaging overview of the
A beautiful morning greeted us in Darwin Harbour as we gathered from all parts of the country vast ‘contact’ history of exploration and exploitation of the Kimberley.
at what would be our floating “home away from home” for the 10 days, Coral Expeditions I.
By early evening the skies were a’ blush with a vivid palette of pinks and oranges. With this
Arriving right on high tide we were able to embark on an “uphill” gangway, having been
stunning backdrop in place, it was time to head to outer decks and take the opportunity to
greeted by Steve and Liz on the wharf. It was not long before we were excitedly exploring our
get to know each other – and be welcomed by Captain Anaru – over a refreshing drink or two.
new digs, and meeting good numbers of our 42-strong group of fellow expeditioners.
After setting sail for our crossing of the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf we convened in the dining
room for a safety briefing and introduction to our hosts for the adventures ahead - our
expedition leader Steve & the team, and purser Manfred & the hotel staff; as well as the bridge
officers & deck hands that would deliver us safely to our various destinations... and tell us a
story or two along the way to colour the journey!

DAY 2 | Saturday, 2 June 2018
KOOLAMA BAY & KING GEORGE FALLS
Position: 18:00 hours Course: 304° Wind Speed: 15 knots Barometer: 1012 hPa & steady
Latitude: 13° 52’ S Speed: 8.9 knots Wind Direction: SE High Water: 2.5 m at 10:42 hours
Longitude: 127° 15’ E Low Water: 1.4 m at 19:14 hours
The Kimberley Coast is… a part of the world exhibiting itself particularly through the beauty members gathered freshwater and made camp in the cove before many of them continued
and grandeur of its rocks and the landforms they help produce. Their colours, shapes, forma- overland by foot to reach help at Wyndham.
tions and patterns are just so diverse and interesting that even the staunchest ‘geophobe’
At nearby Tranquil Bay we enjoyed an opportunity to stretch our legs; take in the impressive
softens somewhat on a cruise around this coast. — A.W. (Sandy) Scott
amphitheatre of sandstone; and inspect the array of sea (and mud crab) shells on the sandy
Our crossing of the notoriously fickle Joseph Bonaparte Gulf had been a relatively smooth shores. On our return to the mother ship, a short choppy sea provided us with a refreshing
experience, although it was a topic of breakfast debate as to whether the increased motion salt spray (or for those at the front and sides of the Explorer, a refreshing drench)!
of the ship overnight was a sleep inducing, cradle-like rock or jarring dream disturbance. As
Shortly after lunch we were off again - this time to marvel at the spectacular vistas of the
we approached the Kimberley coast this morning we could reflect on just what it was we had
King George River gorge. The 80-metre high cliffs towered above us – ancient rocky sentries
been sailing over for the past 22 hours or so.
guiding our way up the estuarine waters to the impressive terminal twin waterfalls of the
The Gulf is quite shallow (perhaps 70m to 80m deep) and this contributes to the occasional King George River. The Warton Sandstone provided a scattered patchwork of hues to enjoy –
roughness of the passage. The drowned “landscape” below us would once have been a vast from gentle swirls purple-grey and cream, to great swathes of russet reds, black and orange.
plain and at the extreme of the last ice age (~20,000 years ago) would have extended some Weathering at the waterline presented a delicate maze of honeycomb sculpture.
300 km north from the present coastline. Rising sea levels have obliterated the presence of
The mountain goats amongst us undertook an impressive rock climb, followed by an
those first Kimberley lands, but one wonders what artefacts might be dredged up in years to
overland walk across the flat plateau to the top of the falls where we were spellbound by
come. The same drowning of the landscape gives us what is known as a “ria” coastline.
the view and sheer scale of the gorge. A select group tapped into their contemplative
Having made good time across the Gulf, we were able to enjoy a first outing to explore and creative side to enjoy an art workshop with Alasdair, while the remainder took to the
two of the smaller coves within Koolama Bay. At Calamity Cove, Alasdair told the tale of the inflatable with Master Anaru for a close encounter with the falls from below! Regardless of
MV Koolama after it was bombed in WW2. While its Captain managed to careen and patch which option we chose, smiles were universal as we exchanged our first Kimberley stories
the ship well enough to eventually motor to Wyndham, the First Mate and all but 28 crew over a sunset drink.

DAY 3 | Sunday, 3 June 2018
VANSITTART BAY: JAR ISLAND & C53 WRECK
Position: 19:00 hours Course: 276° Wind Speed: 15 knots Barometer: 1013 hPa & steady
Latitude: 13° 52’ S Speed: 9.2 knots Wind Direction: SE High Water: 3.9 m at 14:23 hours
Longitude: 126° 12’ E Low Water: 1.0 m at 07:48 hours
Directly in front of us is a crescent-shaped beach, tied at each end with thickets of mangroves. After lunch, Alasdair’s talk on Kimberley rock art satisfied a good gathering of curious minds
The beach is as close to populous Asia as anywhere in Australia, yet this expansive coast, stimulated by the morning’s viewing. As well as detailing the approximate time sequence of
and the hinterland it defies, remain remote, sparsely populated and undeveloped, tinged various rock art styles in northern Australia, Alasdair also sought to explain the significance of
with mystery. — Alasdair McGregor & Quentin Chester, The Kimberley – Horizons of Stone both the tasselled (Bradshaw) figures we had seen only hours earlier, and the Wandjina figures
that we will soon meet.
In the wee hours of the morning we dropped anchor in Vansittart Bay although it was
reported that the excitement of our first day’s activities had induced such a deep slumber that A small change in anchorage to the southern end of Vansittart Bay gave us access to the
the rattle of the chain was no disturbance. As the sun rose so did we, and our first spectacle western shores for our afternoon adventure. Once we had all streamed off the Explorer,
of the day was the pink wash of first light highlighting the low rocky landscape of nearby Jar we set off to view and hear about the C53 plane, which crash-landed here in 1942. That all
Island or Ngula - the site of our morning outing. six people on board had survived the landing and the rugged isolation before being rescued
by a QANTAS flying boat after four days gave the story a happy ending. Despite its 75 years
Jar Island was named by Philip Parker King in 1819 after he found shards of pottery which he
here in splendid isolation the aircraft is in amazingly good condition although not likely to
attributed as artefacts left by Macassan trepang fishers who he knew to be active in the area.
be flying again at any time soon. After a leisurely explore of the open savannah bushland
From the smooth sandy beach we weaved through rows of large lumps of rocks; and then,
and its mudflat interface, we were reunited with the Explorer and its talented skipper,
in and around troops of mud whelks moving slowly over their mud flat home.
Aidan at the beach.
A little scramble up the spinifex and rock-covered hill brought us to a vast sandstone
As a final hurrah, we were treated to a sighting of an Australian humpback dolphin in the
overhang where we were able to view a good array of ancient Bradshaw or Gwion Gwion art.
shallows. Cold drinks and a sunset beckoned us back to the ship, and we toasted another
The fine detail of the tasselled figures and the intense colour of the ochres used, along with
fantastic day in the north Kimberley.
the presumed age of these enigmatic beings were fascinating.