Kente Cloth Weaving among the Asante in Ghana A West African Example of Gender and Role PDF
Preview Kente Cloth Weaving among the Asante in Ghana A West African Example of Gender and Role
University of Al berta Kente Cloth Weaving among the Asante in Ghana A West African Example of Gender and Role Change Resistance O Mari Elizabeth Bergen A thesis submitted to the Faculty of Graduate Studies and Research in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts Textiles and Clothing Department of Human Ecology Edmonton, Alberta Fall 1998 m*m National Library Bibliothèque nationale ofcarda du Canada Acquisitions and Acquisitions et Bibliogr aphic Services senrices bibliographiques 395 Wellington Street 395. rue Wellington OttawaON K1AON4 ûtrawaON K1AON4 Canada Canada The author has granted a non- L'auteur a accordé une licence non exclusive licence allowing the exclusive permettant à la National Library of Canada to Bibliothèque nationale du Canada de reproduce, loan, distribute or sell reproduire' prêter, distncbuer ou copies of this thesis in microform, vendre des copies de cette thèse sous paper or electronic formats. la forme de microfiche/film, de reproduction sur papier ou sur format électronique. The author retains ownership of the L'auteur conserve la propriété du copyright in this thesis. Neither the droit d'auteur qui protège cette thèse. thesis nor substantial extracts fiom it Ni la thèse ni des extraits substantieIs may be printed or otherwise de celle-ci ne doivent être imprimés reproduced without the author's ou autrement reproduits sans son permission. autorisation. Kente doth weaving on the namw4p West Afn'can loom is traditionally a male role among the Asante in Ghana. 1 conducted forma1 and informal intewiews with residents of al1 age groups, in Bonwire, to soli& opinion on why or why not women should weave in the village. This research shows that traditional gender role division among the Asante is persistent in weaving despite the fact that the govemment of Ghana, along with national women's groups and development agencies, both within the country and abroad, have made a concerted effort to encourage wornen to weave. Older men and younger women believe women should be allowed to weave mainly for reasons of modemity and economics. Younger men and older wornen are predominantiy against it for reasons of tradition and the difficulty of gender relations. Few women with young children can afford to invest their time and capital in long terrn projects like weaving. This thesis is dedicated to the memory of my M e r J acob M. Bergen - (1907 1967) and to my sister Agnes E. Zimmerman (1952 - 1996). It is my deepest regret that neither one was able to witness the completion of my formal education. The fieldwork on which this thesis is based was camed out under the auspices of the Textiles, Uothing and Culture Division of the Human Ecology Department at the University of Alberta for the degree of Master of Arts. I owe much to their generosity, and the freedom they allowed me, in aie planning and execution of my research. 1 would like to thank the following for their much appreciated funding support: Department of Human Ecology for a research assistant ship; Canadian Home Economics Aaoaation for a Global Awareness Bursary; Alberta Museums Association for an Individual Training Grant; Engberg Scholarship in International Home Economics; and, last but not least, my son-in-law, James Curüs for his genemus support in supplying the funding for purchasing my field equipment. During the course of my field research, 1 incurred obligations to a great many people. 1 cannot acknowledge more than a few here, but 1 must record the willing help and friendliness of the people 1 met in Ghana, and, partïculariy the people of Kumasi. My greatest field obligation is, of course, to the people of Bonwire. My heartfelt thanks go to al1 the residents who so graciousiy gave of their time and opinions. 1 would like to thank: Acting Chief Twafouhene; Queen Mother Nana Rosina Cobbina; Kentehene Nana Ampem Dankwah II; the former Kentehene Nana Akwasi Gyamfi; and Nana Opanin Oppong for their permission and kind support of my research. Thanks go to Linguist Mr. Peter Badu; kente shop owner Mr. Samuel Cophie for sharing his knowledge of kente doth with me. Thanks go to the Master Weaver in Bonwire and to Mr Manfred Owusui for sharing their knowledge of traditional religion. A special thanks to Madam Ntoosea, Madam Afrakomaa, and Sister Adwoa for their wise and unique per~pe~voens g ender relations. Thanks also go to Mr. Ralph Solomon for acting as my social advisor and guide; Mr Victor Oppong for his superb job at translating and his enttiusiasrn for my research project If any of the above should read this book, 1s hould Iike hem to know that 1 am well aware that no foreigner can hcpe to understand everything about an issue as complicated as the importance of kente to Asante culture in the brief period I spent in their community. I have becorne aware of some of the issues surrounding gender relations and weaving practice, and if 1h ave communicated mis understanding to others, then 1 have done al1 that 1 had hoped to do. My "support" friends in Kumasi and Accra need special mention. In Kumasi: Mr Kwame (Osei) Adgeay and his wife Theresa who supplied me with my 'lifeline' to Canada, and could always be counted on for wonderhl rneals; Mrs. Ama Prempeh of CEDEP who works tirelessfy on behalf of Ghanaian women; Mr and M nP eter Shinney who supplied me with well worn novels and practicaI advice; Charles and John at the Basel Mission guest house for their efforts at making my stay there as pleasant as possible. In Accra: Misses - Gifty, Sarena, and Zenabou, daughters of Sister Mary Opare they shared their home, their excellent culinary skills, their bargaining skills, and their laughter with me; in London, Helen and Abraham. As the work abroad could not have functÏoned wiaiout the support of people at home, 1 extend an especial heart felt thanks to Laurie Hart and Anne Lambert for "taking care of business" while 1w as gone. I would also Iike to thank the other graduate students who shared with me both joys and miseries: Michele; Mana; Anne; Laune; Irene; Jean. 1 thank Diana, Suzanne, and ünda for cheering me through the "official forest" and the 'lechnological Jungle". Thank you to my cornmittee members for their patience, and to Nancy Kerr for being a friend. But most of al1 1w ant to thank my family, especially Anna, Jennifer, Morgana, Kevin, James and Lloyd, for understanding why 1 needed to do mis. TABLE OF CONTENTS . .................... .............. ....................................... 1 GENERAL INTRODUCnON 1 ................... .... ............ .. .............................. Introduction to Study Area 4 ......................................... .............................................................. Ghana 4 ...................................................................................... Ashanti Region 6 ......................................................... Bonwire: Home of Kente Weaving 8 . ....................................... ................ 2 RESEARCH BEGINNINGS AND METHODS 12 ..................................... .. .............................. Prelude to Fieldwork 12 ............................ Considering Method: The "How and "Why" of Research 13 .................... Time in the Field: The "When" and "mm Where" of Research 15 ............................... ... .................................. Scheduling of Intewiews 15 .............................................................................. Using an Interpreter 17 ................................................................................. Technological Aids 18 ..................................................................... My Behaviour in the Field 19 .......................................................................... The "GiW of the Field 20 . ....................................................................... 3 PROFILES OF RESPONDENTS 23 ............. .......*.. ...... . ............**...................... Elderly Women .6 0+ 24 Elderly Men .8 0's ..................... ...... ..................................................... 25 ............................................................................. Men in 60's and 70's 26 ............................................................................ Middle-aged Women 27 ................................................................................ Middle-aged Men 29 ............................................................................. Mamed Women (30's) 30 ........................................................................................ Mamed Men 31 ............................................................................ Women in their 20's 32 ............................................................................................ Male Youths 33 ........................ ........ .................................................... Teenage Girls 34 .................................................................................... Teenage Boys 35 .. ............................ ....................................... Community Leaders 37 . ....................... 4 THE MATRIUNEAL SYSEM AND ASANE GENDER EQUAnON 43 .................... ... ............................................................. Introduction 43 ............................... .. ............................... The Asante Kinship System 45 ........................ .... .............................. Relationships and Inheritance 46 ................................... ...................................... The Mamage Role 52 .............................................................................. Residence Patterns 56 ................... ... ................................................................... Behaviour 57 . .......................... ..... ..................... 5 GENDER. EDUCAnON. AND EMPLOYMENT 65 .............................. .. .................... Gender and Finanaal Independence 70 .................................................................................. Women and Work 74 . .................................................................. 6 KENTE. THE CLOTH OF KINGS 80 ................................ .............................................. Origins of Kente ,, 80 ............................................................. Organization of Kente Weaving 81 ... ................................................................. Ritual. Gender, and Taboo 86 ............................................... Endurance of Handwoven Textile indusby 92 . ...................................................................... 7 GENDER AND DEVELOPMEW 102 ......................................................................................... Introcfuction 102 ............................................................. Theory, ûevelopment, and Afn'ca 102 .......................... ...... Post Structural Adjustment and Women in Ghana , 107 .................................... Ghanaian Govemment Cornmitment to Women 110 .......................................................... NGO's. Women. and Development 112 .............................................................................. Changes in Weaving 113 . .............................................................................. 8 WOMEN AND WEAVING 121 .................... .. ......................................... The Bonwire Kente Project 121 ................................................ Should Women Weave? Why? Why Not? 127 . .............................................................................................. 9 REFLECnONS 143 ................................................................ IF 1 WERE TO RESEARCH FURTH ER 163 ..................... ... ................................................................. REFERENCE 164 Cha~ter1 Page ....................................................... Figure 1.1 Map of Ghana 10 ................... ... .......................... Figure 1.2 Village of Bonwire 11 ................................................ Figure 1.3 Tourist transportation Il Cha~te2r ................................... Figure 2.1 RaIph in his outdoor kente shop 22 ...................................................... Figure 2.2 Chiefs of Bonwire 22 Chapter 3 ...................................... ........... Figure 3.1 Young man weaving 39 ........................................... Figure 3.2 Master Weaver at his loom 40 ................................ .... ............................ Figure 3.3 Shed leader 41 . ................................................................... Figure 3.4 Mr Badu 41 ........................................................... Figure 3.5 Queen Mother 42 ..................................................... Figure 3.6 Fomer Kentehene 42 Cha~te4r .................................................... Figure 4.1 Yaa pounding fufu 63 ........................................ Figure 4.2 Boys helping to pound fufu 64 .............................. Figure 4.3 Kente cloth narned Abusuayedom 64 Cha~te5r ................................................ Figure 5.1 Young girl selling gari 77 ..................................................... Figure 5.2 Market in Kumasi 78 ............................................................... Figure 5.3 Yam seller 78 ........................................................... Figure 5.4 Child-minder 79 ................................ Figure 5.5 Women marketing extra produce 79 Cha~te6r . .............................................. Figure 6.1 Mr Marfoh at his loom 95 ............................... Figure 6.2 Mr Cophie modelling a kente doth 96 ............................................... Figure 6.3 Boy leaming to weave 97 ........................... Figure 6.4 Weaving school for boys in Bonwire 98 .......................................... Figure 6.5 Two young men weaving 98 ........................ Figure 6.6 Master Weaver of Bonwire weaving ....................... ... Ftgure 6.7 Section of "Brain Upon Brain" kente ............................................ Figure 6.8 Kente shop in Bonwire ............................................ Figure 6.9 Kente shop in Bonwire ................................ Figure 6.10 Wife of the president of Ghana Cha~ter7 ...................................................... Figure 7.1 The Boku loom ...................................................... Figure 7.2 The Boku loom ...................................................... Figure 7.3 The Bette loom ....................... Figure 7.4 Traditional loom in the Culture Centre Chanter 4 ........................ Ftgure 8.1 Sign outside women's weaving shed .............................. .. .............. Figure 8.2 Girl winding bobbins .............................. Figure 8.3 Anglican women's weaving shed ................................... Figure 8.4 Gifty weaving at trade fair ........... Figure 8.5 Ten weaver's competing at the Kente Festival .................................... Figure 8.6 "Sika Futura" kente pattern
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