Jewish soul food: traditional fare and what it means

223 Pages·2015·8.967 MB·English

by  Ungar, Carol

JEWISH SOUL FOOD
a
c
b
JEWISH
c
SOUL
c
FOOD
.................................
Traditional Fare
and What It Means
CAROL UNGAR
BRANDEIS UNIVERSITY PRESS
WALTHAM, MASSACHUSETTS
Brandeis University Press
An imprint of University Press of New England
www.upne.com
© 2015 Brandeis University
All rights reserved
Manufactured in the United States of America
Designed by April Leidig
Typeset in Garamond and Journal
by Copperline Book Services, Inc.
For permission to reproduce any of the material in this book,
contact Permissions, University Press of New England,
One Court Street, Suite 250, Lebanon NH 03766;
or visit www.upne.com
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Ungar, Carol, 1959–
Jewish soul food : traditional fare and
what it means / Carol Ungar.
pages cm
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-1-61168-501-5 (pbk. : alk. paper)
ISBN 978-1-61168-693-7 (ebook)
1. Jewish cooking. I. Title.
TX724.U54 2015
641.5'676—dc23 2014040175
5 4 3 2 1
To my mother,
Eva Green,
who is my inspiration.

CONTENTS
Preface: Kitchen Alchemy — A Life at the Table, xi
Acknowledgments, xiii
1 SHABBAT, 1
Wine, 2
Homemade Sweet Red Wine, 3
Challah, 3
Three-Braid Challah, 5 Single Challah, 8 Six-Braid Challah, 9
Vav Challah, 11 String of Pearls Challah, 12 Yud Bais Challah, 13
Challah Kugel, 14 Baked Garlic Is for Lovers, 14
Friday Night, 15
Doctored-Up Gefilte Fish, 17 Homemade Chrain Made Easy, 18
Asian Fusion Fish, 19 Spiritual Chicken Soup for the Frugal, 20
Meat Pie, 21 Pot Roast à la Molly Goldberg, 23 Curried Chicken for
the Shabbat, 24 Fabulous Farfel, 25 Sweet-and-Sour Red Cabbage, 25
Apple and Plum Compote, 26
Shabbat Morning Breakfast, 27
Kubaneh, 27 Yemenite Grated Tomato Dip, 28 Eyer Kichel, 29
Magical Marvelous Marble Cake, 30
Shabbat Lunch, 31
Eggs and Onions, 32 Batya’s Chopped Liver, 33 Cholent, 34
Sephardi Cholent, 35 Shalom Bayit Kugel, 37
Third Meal, 38
Rabbi Freifeld’s Pickled Herring, 39 Sardine Salad, 40
Sweet-and-Sour Cucumber Salad, 40
Melaveh Malka, 42
Bagels, 42
2 HOLIDAYS, 45
Rosh Hashana, 46
Homemade Gefilte Fish, 47 Black-Eyed Peas for the New Year, 50
Rosh Hashana Leek Latkes, 51 Gourd Pancakes, 52 Green, Green Rosh
Hashana Latkes, 53 Baked Apples with Honey, 54 Round Challah, 55
Crown Challah, 56 Shofar Challah, 57 Scales of Justice Challah, 58
Indian Jewish Rosh Hashana Apple Confit, 59 Quince Compote, 60
Carrot Tzimmes, 61 Tongue for the New Year, 62 Batya’s Sweet Rosh
Hashana Chicken Liver Sauté, 63 Couscous aux Sept Legumes, 63
Wine-Poached Pears, 65 Teiglach, 66
Yom Kippur, 68
Bird Challah, 68 Classic Kreplach, 70 Honey Cake, 72
Sukkoth, 74
One Two Three Bread, 74 Frankfurter Goulash, 76 Tomato Soup, 77
Mandelbrot, 78 Unstuffed Cabbage, 80 Pistou, 81
Hoshana Rabbah, 82
Cabbage Soup, 82 Hand Challah, 83
Shmini Atzeret, 85
Old-Fashioned Chicken Soup with a Whole Chicken, 85 Glingl, 87
Pareve Blintzes with Glingl Filling, 87 Blintzes Baked with Batya’s
Fresh Tomato Sauce, 88
Simchat Torah, 89
Torah Scroll Challah, 89 Hungarian Stuffed Cabbage, 90
Hanukkah, 92
Buckwheat Pancakes for Hanukkah, 94 Latkes, 95 Moroccan
Hanukkah Doughnuts, 97 Persian Potato Latkes, 98 Persian Herbed
Omelet, 99 Israeli Hanukkah Doughnuts, 100 Judith’s Lasagna, 102
Heavenly Cheese Latkes, 104 Menorah-Shaped Challah, 105
Anglo-Jewish Gefilte Fish Balls, 106 Gribenes and Schmaltz, 107
Shabbat Shira, 109
Ruota di Faraone, 109 Deboned Chicken Thighs Stuffed with Kasha, 111
Tu Bishvat, 112
Etrog Confit, 113
Purim: Shabbat Parshat Zachor, 115
Apple Kugel, 115 Mehl Kugel, 116 Lokshen Kugel, 116 Kartofl Kugel, 117
Purim, 118
Hamentaschen, 119 Mohn Filling, 122 Lekvar, 122 Hungarian Purim
Kindl, 124 Haman’s Ears, 126 Haman’s Fleas, 128 Fish Challah, 129
Ojos de Haman Challah, 131 Haman’s Noose, 132 Hamentasch
Challah, 133 Chickpeas for Purim, 134 Kreplach for Purim, 134
Haman’s Hair: Purim Pasta Salad, 135 Galicianer Stuffed Cabbage
for Purim, 136 Turkey Roast, 138
Passover, 139
DIY Matzo, 140 The Seder Plate, 142 Ashkenazi Haroseth, 146
Persian Haroseth, 146 Iraqi Haroseth, 147 Seder Night Hard-Boiled
Eggs, 148 Firm Matzo Balls, 148 Knaidlach with a Neshoma, 150
Fluffy Knaidlach, 150 Chicken Balls, 151 Tongue for Second Day of
Passover, 152 Intergeshlugenah Borscht, 152 Homemade Borscht, 154
Matzo Layer Cake, 154 Matzo Brei, 155 Matzo Coffee, 156
Quajado, 157 Mufleta, 158 Key Challah, 161
Lag b’Omer, 163
Bar Yochai Carob Fudge Bars, 163 Tinted Eggs, 164
Shavuot, 165
Heavenly Challot for Shavuot, 166 Four-Poled Shnei Lehem, 167
Siete Cielos Challah, 169 Ten Commandments Challah, 170
Ladder Challah, 171 David’s Harp Challah, 173 Cheese Kreplach
for Shavuot, 174 Blintzes, 176 Rochelle’s Cheesecake, 178
Tisha b’Av, 179
Rice and Lentil Pilaf, 180 Mama’s Mamaliga, 181 Hungarian Jewish
“Pleated” Potato Casserole, 182 Cabbage Noodles, 183 Existential
Lentil Soup, 184