Table Of Content

J E W E L 001_Half_Title.indd 1 19/05/2016 12:53 J E W E L 002-003_Title_Page.indd 2 19/05/2016 12:53 J E W E L A CELEBRATION OF EARTH’S TREASURES 002-003_Title_Page.indd 3 19/05/2016 12:53 DK LONDON Senior Editor Anna Fischel Senior Art Editors Jane Ewart, Gadi Farfour Project Editor Hugo Wilkinson Designers Helen Spencer, Stephen Bere, Katie Cavanagh, Renata Latipova, Clare Joyce Photographer Ruth Jenkinson Picture Research Sarah Smithies DK Picture Library Martin Copeland Jacket Designer Mark Cavanagh Jacket Editor Claire Gell Contents Jacket Design Development Sophia MTT Producer Mandy Innes Pre-Production Producer Andy Hilliard Managing Editor Gareth Jones Managing Art Editor Lee Griffiths Foreword by Judith Miller 8 Art Director Karen Self Associate Publishing Director Liz Wheeler Publishing Director Jonathan Metcalf 10 DK INDIA INTRODUCTION Senior Managing Art Editor Arunesh Talapatra Senior Art Editor Chhaya Sajwan Treasures of the Earth 12 Art Editors Priyansha Tuli, Roshni Kapur, Sudakshina Basu What is a mineral? 14 Production Manager Pankaj Sharma Physical properties 16 Pre-production Manager Balwant Singh Senior DTP Designer Neeraj Bhatia Crystal systems and habits 18 DTP Designers Jaypal Chauhan, Nityanand Kumar What is a gem? 20 Picture Research Manager Taiyaba Khatoon Picture Researcher Sakshi Saluja Visual properties 22 Where do gems come from? 24 Grading and evaluation 26 First published in Great Britain in 2016 by Dorling Kindersley Limited Gem cuts 28 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL The value of a gem 30 Copyright © 2016 Dorling Kindersley Limited What is a jewel? 32 A Penguin Random House Company Foreword © 2016 Judith Miller 34 16 17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NATIVE ELEMENTS 001–282973–Oct/2016 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, Gold 36 electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without Crown of Charlemagne 40 prior permission of the copyright owner. Silver 42 A CIP catalogue record for this book is Platinum 44 available from the British Library. Marie Antoinette’s diamond earrings 46 ISBN 978-0-2412-2603-2 Copper 48 Artemision Bronze 50 Printed and bound in China Diamond 52 A WORLD OF IDEAS: Koh-i-noor Diamond 58 SEE ALL THERE IS TO KNOW Ancient Egypt 60 www.dk.com Hope Diamond 62 004-007_Imprint_Contents.indd 4 07/06/2016 16:12 64 GEMSTONES Azurite 106 Pyrite 66 Malachite 107 Sphalerite 67 Queen Desideria's malachite parure 108 Stuart Sapphire 68 Turquoise 110 Sapphire 70 Marie-Louise’s diadem 112 Danish ruby parure 74 Gems for anniversaries 114 Ruby 76 Brazilianite 116 Timur Ruby 78 Amblygonite 117 Spinel 80 Apatite 118 Catherine the Great's spinel 82 Lazulite 119 Chrysoberyl 84 Baryte 120 Hematite 86 Celestine 121 Taaffeite 87 Alabaster 122 Cassiterite 88 Gypsum 123 Cuprite 89 Sacred stones 124 Maharaja’s Patiala necklace 90 Scheelite 126 Indian jewels 92 Howlite 127 Rutile 94 Queen Elizabeth’s pelican brooch 128 Diaspore 95 Mysticism and medicine 130 Fluorite 96 Quartz 132 Calcite 98 Treasure chambers of Augustus II 140 Aragonite 99 Surface lustre 142 Rhodochrosite 100 St George statuette 144 Cerussite 101 Chalcedony 146 Byzantine jewels 102 Frederick the Great’s snuffbox 150 Variscite 104 Agate 152 Smithsonite 105 Onyx 154 004-007_Imprint_Contents.indd 5 07/06/2016 16:12 Gold and power 156 Pattern, texture, and inclusions 206 Opal 158 Hiddenite 208 Halley’s Comet opal 162 Kunzite 209 Moonstone 164 Tutti Frutti necklace 210 Shimmering colour 166 Jade 212 Sunstone 168 Chinese birdcage 214 Labradorite 169 Rhodonite 216 Orthoclase 170 Pectolite 217 Microcline 171 Designers' heyday 218 Albite 172 Dioptase 220 Bytownite 173 Sugilite 221 Lapis lazuli 174 Iolite 222 Jewels of ancient Egypt 178 Benitoite 223 Sodalite 180 Duchess of Windsor’s Cartier flamingo brooch 224 Haüyne 181 Tourmaline 226 Kiani Crown 182 Crown of the Andes 230 Scapolite 184 Emerald 232 Pollucite 185 Topkapi emerald dagger 234 Fluorescent minerals 186 Beryl 236 Indian jewels 188 Dom Pedro Aquamarine 242 Serpentine 190 Modern carving and engraving 244 Soapstone 191 Danburite 246 Pezzottaite 192 Axinite 247 Sepiolite 193 Jewellery shopping 248 Ludwig II’s pocket watch 194 Vesuvianite 250 Chrysocolla 196 Epidote 251 Petalite 197 Kornerupine 252 Prehnite 198 Zoisite 253 Phosphophyllite 199 Peridot 254 The gem industry 200 Shwedagon pagoda 256 Enstatite 202 Garnet 258 Diopside 203 Staffordshire hoard 264 Hypersthene 204 Fire and brilliance 266 Bronzite 205 Zircon 268 004-007_Imprint_Contents.indd 6 07/06/2016 16:12 Black Orlov diamond 270 320 Topaz 272 ROCK GEMS AND ROCKS Andalusite 274 Titanite 275 Moldavite 322 Sillimanite 276 Obsidian 323 Dumortierite 277 Limestone 324 Fabergé Easter eggs 278 Sandstone 325 Kyanite 280 Spanish Alhambra 326 Staurolite 281 Marble 328 Phenakite 282 Granite 329 Euclase 283 Michelangelo’s David 330 Napoleon diamond necklace 284 Record-breakers 332 Lucky birthstones 286 Modern brands 334 Mask of Agamemnon 288 290 Colour guide 336 ORGANIC GEMS Glossary 348 Index 352 Pearl 292 Acknowledgments 358 La Peregrina 296 Shell 298 Mother-of-pearl 299 Nautilus cup 300 High society 302 Mother-of-pearl coyote 304 Jet 306 Copal 308 Anthracite 309 Amber 310 Russian Amber Room 312 Coral 314 Diana with stag centrepiece 316 Peanut wood 318 Ammolite 319 004-007_Imprint_Contents.indd 7 07/06/2016 16:12 F oreword by Judith Miller The lure of precious stones and gems is universal – it Many jewels have become woven into the fabric of national is common to every age and every culture. From the mythologies. In Australia, opals feature prominently in moment a sparkling mineral first caught the eye of a enchanting creation stories, which are set in the Dreamtime caveman, humans have been fascinated by the wonders of the Aboriginal peoples. In Britain, meanwhile, there is a of the earth beneath their feet, and have marvelled at the colourful legend surrounding one of the oldest stones in the different ways that stones and crystals react with the light, Crown Jewels, St Edward’s sapphire – according to tradition, at their varied properties and uses, and at the way that they this jewel came from a ring worn by Edward the Confessor, appear miraculously transformed when cut and polished. who generously gave it to a beggar. Many years later, the stranger returned it to him, joyously revealing that he was This appeal goes far beyond visual beauty – throughout no beggar, but John the Evangelist and that Edward would history, mysterious powers have been ascribed to soon be joining him in Paradise. certain gems and minerals. Healers deemed some gems to have medicinal qualities, while astrologers Sometimes, an entire industry could arise from a and alchemists utilized others; the sacred texts of major gemstone’s associations, typified by the links between religions mentioned precious stones, and jewels frequently jet and mourning. This sleek, black substance was scattered featured in ritual practices. Some Chinese emperors, on funeral pyres in Bronze-Age burials and the Romans for example, were buried in jade suits, in the belief that were also fond of using it. The gem went out fashion for this stone conferred a form of immortality; similarly, the a time, but enjoyed a resurgence in popularity in the 19th precious gems and metals used in the complex burial century: Queen Victoria wore jet adornments throughout rites of Egyptian pharaohs were designed to ease their her long years of mourning for Prince Albert, and her passage into the afterlife. example was followed by other widows in Britain. For 008-009_Foreword.indd 8 13/06/2016 10:39