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Jerusalem, Israel, Petra & Sinai PDF

338 Pages·2011·37.08 MB·English
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E EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Y EYEWITNESS TRAVEL E EYEWITNESS TRAVEL EYEWITNESS TRAVEL W Systematic information on more than IT JERUSALEM 600 towns, sights, restaurants, “Eyewitness Travel Guides are marvels of writing, N JERUSALEM hotels, and shops color photography, and illustration” E ISRAEL, PEtRA & SInAI New York Times Syndicate S S Never has a travel guide been so easy to keY To MaiN SYMbolS PACKED WItH PHOtOGRAPHS, T use – just turn to the area of your choice ILLUStRAtIOnS, AnD MAPS R PHistoric building, * Population #Open • A AREA COLOR CODES street, square V ISRAEL, PEtRA & SInAI EMuseum, gallery kIanirtperonrtational ¢Closed tHE FLAVORS OF JERUSALEM E THE muSLIm quARTER RChurch, cathedral, ~Domestic airport &Admission charge AnD tHE H•OLY LAnD L pages 60–75 chapel, monastery uSynagogue, £Train service 6Photography CUtAWAYS AnD FLOOR PLAnS THE jEWISH quARTER Jewish shrine allowed pages 76–87 OF ALL tHE MAJOR SIGHtS J UMosque @Bus stop, station ^Pnhoot taollgorwapehdy • E THE CHRISTIAN AND +Castle, fortress gFerry service, port 7(Wphhoenee ltcoh cahierc ak cdceetasisls ) HUGE SELECtIOn OF HOtELS R ApaRgmesE 8N8I–A10N7 quARTERS AnD REStAURAntS TAsitrech, arueionlogical Pcrleuaisseurr eh ibreoat/ 8Gavuaiidlaebdl etours • U THE mouNT of oLIVES LHealth spa, nTourist 0Restaurant MUSEUMS, SIGHtS, MARKEtS, AnD AND mouNT zIoN private beach information OWaqiuldalrifiuem preserve, (Market day -Café BEACHES LIStE•D AREA BY AREA S pages 108–117 A moDERN jERuSALEm SWater park _Festival =Shop tHREE JERUSALEM WALKS WItH pages 118–127 ROUtE MAPS L • THE CoAST AND gALILEE SYMbolS For HoTelS aNd reSTauraNTS E pages 164–185 InCLUDES ISRAEL, PEtRA AnD \Price category ∫2se4r-vhicoeur room ˚Alcohol served WEStERn JORDAn AnD tHE RED M THE DEAD SEA AND THE NEgEV DESERT SEA AnD SInAI AREAS pages 186–205 ]Price category ÷Fitness facilities Kosher restaurant ¤Cacrceedpitt ecdar ds not SSwimming pool ©Vaveagielatbalreia n options IS PpaEgTeRs A2 0A6N–2D35 WESTERN joRDAN R zAir-conditioning ∆Outside tables 7Wheelchair access (phone to check details) A THE RED SEA AND SINAI )Bar ,Nseocnti-osnmoking fLive music E pages 236–249 L , tRAVELERS’ nEEDS SYMbolS For MaPS aNd FloorPlaNS P E WHERE To STAY kIanirtperonrtational nTinofuorrimst a t ion JViewpoint tR pages 252–265 ~Domestic airport bPolice station Campsite A WHERE To EAT £Train station aHospital with Excursion boat & pages 266–281 emergency room @Long-distance NPost office Sailing center S SHoPS AND mARKETS bbTauxsi ssttaatniodn uSynagogue LBeach “Lavishly illustrated… In pages 282–287 gorgeous, entertaining, ENTERTAINmENT IN THE HoLY LAND gFpeorirnyt boarding UMosque eElevator and enlightening” “Like a Michelangelo fresco: AI pages 288–291 hParking 5Church mMen’s and Chicago Tribune deliriously rich in detail” SACRED PLACES • WALKS SPoRTINg AND SPECIALIST HoLIDAYS women’s restrooms People Magazine IN THE HoLY LAND Dive site Health spa LGood beach “The best” pages 292–295 MUSEUMS • SHOPPInG +Ifmorptrreessssive uMajor synagogue UMajor mosque The Philadelphia inquirer TSairgchnaifiecoalnotg ical site EMgaullsetr-ysee museum, R Mcaathjoerd crhalu, rcchha, pel REStAURAntS • FOOD VIA DOLOROSA OMpreasjoerr vweildlife PRINT ED HOtELS • BEACHES • MOSAICS IN toa npdla rneV cyiseoiituv terr atervixpec,ll dubkso.icvooekm oo fnfelirnse., Dtriascvoevledr km.coroem at CHINA AnCIEnt SItES • DIVInG • MAPS EL-WAD $BA2RQ5UQ.00 uSA $29.00 tHE GUIDES tHAt SHOW YOU WHAt tHE GUIDES tHAt SHOW YOU WHAt CANADA OtHERS OnLY tELL YOU OtHERS OnLY tELL YOU ALA ED-DIN EL-TAKIYA EL-W BAB EL-HADI D A D EYEWITNESS TRAVEL JERUSALEM, ISRAEL, PETRA & SINAI EYEWITNESS TRAVEL JERUSALEM, israel, petra & sinai PROJECT EDITORS Nick Inman, Ferdie McDonald ART EDITORS Jo Doran, Paul Jackson COMMISSIONING EDITOR Giovanni Francesio at Fabio Ratti Editoria S.r.l. EDITORS Elizabeth Atherton, Cathy Day, Simon Hall, Freddy Hamilton, Andrew Humphreys DESIGNERS Chris Lee Jones, Anthony Limerick, Sue Metcalfe-Megginson, Rebecca Milner, Johnny Pau PICTURE RESEARCH Monica Allende, Katherine Mesquita MAP CO-ORDINATOR Dave Pugh DTP DESIGNER Maite Lantaron RESEARCHER Karen Ben-Zoor MAIN CONTRIBUTORS Fabrizio Ardito, Cristina Gambaro, Massimo Acanfora Torrefranca Mount of Olives, Jerusalem PHOTOGRAPHY Eddie Gerald, Hanan Isachar, Richard Nowitz, CONTENTS Magnus Rew, Visions of the Land ILLUSTRATORS Isidoro Gonzáles-Adalid Cabezas (Acanto Arquitectura y Urbanismo S.L.), Stephen Conlin, Gary Cross, Chris Forsey, Andrew MacDonald, Maltings HOW TO USE THIS Partnership, Jill Munford, GUIDE 6 Chris Orr & AssociaLOteNsD,O NP,a NtE WT hYOoRrKn, e, John Woodcock ReproduMcEeLBdO UbRyNw ECw, MwoU.ldNokI.uCcoHrm sAcNaDn D,E LSHiIngapore Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd, China INTRODUCING First American Edition 2000 JERUSALEM, ISRAEL, 10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 pETRA & SINAI Published in the United States by Dorling Kindersley Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, New York 10014 Reprinted with revisions 2002, 2007, 2010 DISCOVERING THE Copyright © 2000, 2010 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London HOLY LAND 10 A Penguin Company ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, PUTTING THE HOLY SATNOYR EFOD RIMN ,O ORR I NBYTR AONDYU MCEEDAN INS T(EOL EAC RTERTORNIEICV,A ML ESCYHSTAENMIC, AOLR, PTHRAONTSOMCIOTTPEYDIN, GIN, LAND ON THE MAP 12 RECORDING, OR OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK. A CATALOGING IN PUBLICATION RECORD IS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY OF PUTTING JERUSALEM CONGRESS. ON THE MAP 14 ISSN 1542-1554 ISBN 978-0-7566-6202-8 FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN A PORTRAIT OF THE USAGE; IE THE “FIRST FLOOR” IS THE FLOOR ABOVE GROUND LEVEL. HOLY LAND 16 THE TERM “HOLY LAND” HAS BEEN USED TO DESCRIBE THE AREAS COVERED BY THIS GUIDE. Front cover main image: Dome of the Rock, THE HOLY LAND Temple Mount, Jerusalem THROUGH THE YEAR 36 THE HISTORY OF THE HOLY LAND 40 The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. Old Jaffa’s attractive waterfront View over the rooftops of Jerusalem’s Christian Quarter 004-JER-AT941-0136_NEW STYLE_US.indd 4 17/06/2010 9:35 AM ISRAEL, pETRA & SINAI REGION BY REGION THE HOLY LAND AT A GLANCE 162 THE COAST AND GALILEE 164 THE DEAD SEA AND THE NEGEV DESERT 186 Middle Eastern handicrafts PETRA AND WESTERN JORDAN 206 SPORTING AND Mount of Olives, Jerusalem SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS THE RED SEA IN THE HOLY LAND JERUSALEM AND SINAI 236 292 AREA BY AREA SURVIVAL GUIDE JERUSALEM AT A GLANCE 58 PRACTICAL INFORMATION 298 THE MUSLIM QUARTER 60 TRAVEL INFORMATION 308 Bedouin camel, Western Jordan THE JEWISH QUARTER 76 GENERAL INDEX 316 TRAVELLERS’ THE CHRISTIAN NEEDS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS AND ARMENIAN 332 QUARTERS 88 WHERE TO STAY 252 PHRASE BOOK 335 RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND BARS 266 SHOPS AND MARKETS 282 ENTERTAINMENT IN THE HOLY LAND 288 Window detail, Dome of the Rock Pomegranates THE MOUNT OF OLIVES AND MOUNT ZION 108 MODERN JERUSALEM 118 FURTHER AFIELD 128 JERUSALEM STREET FINDER 152 The remote St Catherine’s Monastery in Sinai 004-JER-AT941-0136_NEW STYLE_US.indd 5 17/06/2010 9:35 AM 6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE T his guide helps you to get the regional chapters describe important most from your visit to sights, using maps, photographs and Jerusalem and the Holy Land, illustrations. Features cover topics by providing detailed practical infor- from food to wildlife. Recommended mation. Introducing Jerusalem, Israel, hotels and restaurants are listed in Petra & Sinai maps the region and sets Travellers’ Needs, while the Survival it in its historical and cultural context. Guide has tips on travel, money and The Jerusalem section and the four other practical matters. JERUSALEM JERUSALEM AREA BY AREA 89 Each area of Jerusalem has AREA BY AREA THE CHRISTIAN AND its own colour-coded thumb ARMENIAN QUARTERS TacFhruheareapt shct,eei terry. a AAcisfh i led awlidsvti,i t dhcche oidatvsp e itnorestwr o, n f ive rSccsoUSahoeIofGp anurtHidhntkdrToee laKSy wrContH . heA df hoS oodaTJereefnlf riy Atri s ttBunt ethl hSeGiys leae-atemzLZ hnpla gAeeee ncurmNcni etiltiontCtc a nye amhoEtwex, nrr b pmraedtiuahsan. uls nDwe Bcindl toatoeihiehcnvtsudeaeyi-tnd d SeOtodrlfde ACebrimttyy,e snigialtnnoh m tneial egdqse uh iiesttfacitatoniehhirrltrslceaeeyeythat ’d impsA aiot nrwatmronae rmJiddstsaets. hieen r atoTi nruyntonhfos idn Ca aet q hatnhl hhceluesrlohmeyi,a sO us rwit.sptnri loeaIcdihhtcuhnr ao eiCe trsbdh sesi hi teo, mtoy iaenpns.fvdao ae ttei tm hhbnro iyeeas--f tfSariogbnh, tta scs oastvh eaor w.Glna nincesi dlies tsth e paoTtlnAyaohroruneh eeceluorm eaa it cn spshtaedae iurhegorte,eiom ehfct ca rariatthbn sashiml l aeleet aroaphr sedrrecpietled gaied ytd esthyr ei he’rao tfsa cssoonn osec.awld y nnrlrAto i os etptptlr w oahlwetol i oe. sotmhthi thgnmeteaeehrsrpead to ps. f. 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fe9 e access and public transport. For hotels in this area see p256 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7 ISRAEL, PETRA & SINAI REGION BY REGION 237 THE RED SEA AND SINAI Once coveted by Egypt’s pharaohs for its reserves of turquoise, copper and gold, Sinai is now equally prized by tourists for its ISRAEL, PETRA & SINAI white, palm-fringed sands and the limpid waters of the Red SOelad, Triecshta wmiethn tm aalsroin me laifkee. sI ttsh cel oSsine aais’sso mciaoutionnta winitohu ks eiyn etepriisoord easn f raormea t hoef REGION BY REGION deep religious significance for Jews, Muslims and Christians alike. 1 Introduction Apart from Jerusalem, the Holy adgTboIsuttetstbMmStabhhhhhstununpueoheyfnrroeerere Tedeadprist edodo csiwn Sthez h MPvpR ecu ueArS,il ttereeh e sn4woegsergioaqota sne de0 g.hawrsnhsam nor arnws -eiit ede bfiydo S oirhT bridt sct ooasees hionPthe hlehslehJ,faafhreemy eo i ae ieded.rrni ev n Rirn p Eepr swgA edBeiLfemjsdgp“ hno“pegdia,lpaidSir S tybbresulaneu enheis d-ouhipendlrrdt llndStcnoeenhilnfiaat t” ktiea.susi atri iel,u eosnea eiav s naIgiM nfypmo th” erpntosseoh’Th e c so olu sf ser yefho xekp Etums.tkrltoho.hnh t aa”Aaenorgnreepf svmes eoBe rmoy qtr tnelC r mb eahaewpuoaiwtS “eao to a bsaogttiiEtotgtnhmt nmbbhri sranigonri eoaeEua laM ymayty sialtinirab,le,p l at otl naaGgnoh etttntsi lhedfe eonee dtda i ndogsr-t vmsdtRpsofShurpinarehiohorneocetedtaemheu cvcu v loiu initaud keepahSbfntlsty ehssca eoaelaDtidrwu e yitrhiv.labo nmeFhnao menao aeeh,pmecge Bsesrrd fu ve eslhseiw es iwr ueeuwrid.nno eoesmnn adIdrdato.s ihdsnm snMh i ini itoartntnre n ,eteIdphla eh oarrhdlgbwnscrfsritwet eeearun sr e’ey eelfs eamva,oalboil sle r tist aaceneriomsirhwsc ot vndint e’hrrlu,duco lseso emamgri id ehictt ulfadtt wsh p1dthensseuosrSemntr he ec 9e, se r ihreat twrocnitaanea6dtrlhcs daonmeeospfn tead7ito ot id ntsutediceeyia htuSwhSsr vehthrr ss.klaha tsiret inyn eessn oioasneaila tbt I n lo mans trihmr ndChoiElaicimgmrf1d1slt aeagr oaea , s9a0 harittttmaysseif aef nhhehe8n0lo.earopaofssllpdne0ee2essssrr--fftt, arshctoheean gnoosd Tiw tfo duhfcnieerenhr vi iageletsas orl h onoa atopucdhnwettseedldc i rtv n a hwoiopesvehfdie e ta,ae or ha rhtrt eec hiitrasthoe te ho d , raaysy . 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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp264–5 and p281 Diver exploring coral reef in the Red Sea, surrounded by glittering shoal of sweeper fish 246 ISRAEL, PETRA & SINAI REGION BY REGION THE RED SEA AND SINAI 247 SAisBitiotnnnhoin yn ge t c3ltzhc yoh 3apBea Cme7nl viuan t temhssbci anh heteyfuhe.ao t nwmeSd Tuheit othh no9myHweeedtn hp roe a mer hloefsoe ertfiotGnreo rrn nMaar rr1ybdea, .MskAavB0 oeJ esuoimieluta wtuetowk shpicdeI’sswoeosn htac iayrtstl onclti yt e sho iyhnio are cc o neSsntsfefiwsntaM hr naoia i or tnte.ottoCnh ay uhnhu,oannsds e.oeni roi if e sp ony,I linmdt atuElsho,x a naee trombanr alhmbcdemmntlefeat ipy pt eicaM ieooo oIenl sdsMcra fnsront ooetctASkmaso nrertueesfDyu tdo TsnCG’ehns r nhiros 5aaatn2 eka y2n sSlCot,wslc 7e0tsedl hat irr0c Caovb6traytl0hnhuseaa.pyi ettdepiai ehimcr n t,liBeohe neearbndeu,eidr unsrlrae. ey,nie t l, - t LTCsVeihahcbetroir icncsaatodrinlay loe nLnc itmlbiyor anatonr oyutfh s iacpnrrt iiRipcnotesm l teihssees . e arly SWt eSltlDeipshpeenn’ssa ry BTnTaonhsnienai ldGhmslreTict o nuo hhawTAuabe aer1Ssosaeljp ete1teoMlw sMe l0xBr nslo6b a eo aroo wsunsnrbeqrwikiielyldug.islr atg’eeic enqdi rio owanu danIlual aIvoyyr1 sstenso e8dr cffrarte7e rsiuRnetsd1etagnuii.dct v gesaaT asdt b heiol yadsen . ly VD(mtStmAwRkEeeaIoadlerrii-tSllhyymeaelM. c 1..asIsd ¢oi)T)0@#ibsl. mgs W m OPktia oeoeGm a)f9n.o R,trSrp ra ofte(oftS mh6mr eDElCe e ’k6–amae n a Tnv.hCO,t ai aothlSabebraiHioebltusnaaxhrn) tiab,Ei a o n N3iolNnM,deCe .Efdu9 5o’fo aKs ewo0 xN tnkrV f Leihm–kmu nimilTmowIblg oaShl(oass 2egnu( . Tni5 e aob,a 6s ras- .- FCipnolhfaroen arc mlkyl loamisuttiaro j ponvrri os ysivoti.igudh ewtss i ,tl hla e nV epiesrdiat octtroisc ’a l b6cTothuhmei l tcWp eilnnea xlttlu’hssr e oyo ,ffr iiaJrgursietsn thapinlaa ilsraftt nr ouo,f cf ttthuheree . nIaepcMntaneeh omrrdtebihn oemytedrat eaCoosircrnnthyaecska,hrl fslfreyay’rnr orbreGedmeoxla d nhlH ri weuetdoosshm ue aittnscehhredhseee. THoo uCshearnel Terpuoehnsnuaeetllcyrld eahe yanlteeo ccdsvc ey bae,bs testyese td.mah e, 4 T Thhees eT oapr eS gigivhetns two or Visitors’ entrance Tcfmrihesotesneh ura nnswt dewaertayregs’rs r dfosruuopgnmri dnt o tg h sse.t ore more full pages. Historic FTTtaMihtohnohisSh.. oress bi Tt et hsshprPe Ae o BTIuse eBcsrtrpfRaoe ocorauhbilsp tosmnnnueSiri lmlan yseaniIsiCncf Gsghr eidoiaeotg dn v Hhu hdrfluoe erlgeitG Tersrof mL tgoac SsBomaatratft udhnu iitem oEoro’eewadssngn n n hel.hvyet siopsia sctiit donch st c aeto hk,i id s region see pRpo2u6n4d– 5To awnedr p281 TTc6TIgf.rthihrtr olh cauadiBma-snnerc anmcd sesstfhwmbTB hnfiibaihyui glehciteog iegrruu oMeca nw uengCrrnrcaiaoenrlyiaeuh iosf rag soalmtiieMsolt ic tpys ftiBouiiepa te osouonsst1nls ss h srnce i7nobaithilsgdlefaunta i yi hst i cnts mmbhthh d taacoheael eneeleshf yedtcd en itt odsegaonhtt hnrrau pedeate t srhw eteyteesh...d e WOwasJeasante ihtdtelherl or eotoo ’fssW fo ht dhuMeaaelrvlo uc meoesg fsmeoh ,Jsn teetehattrh is,hs rth ieoisres, y fraau’essl.t s umoMr akeo niswneos iw fiesn, SSfcmtwCwbtawfrctohreoueentoTaa hhamareupnngCtndt sree hnutttCeta lsyaeuureyoebdrlple tAdslrerrerhcwe, oe yi i , dT(aeineth uds,rtahos l sHr teae n osroeewi mii aen lScnEnndnmwatdcaieoh o Rt ctnoAsehsa eebreenai I.-ud relsyn N ksies H tn.e, bp ih xso ExltH.ey)iaesn k ,r n eO e tesdrhl dhe Forag eiDd ftaA e oe tsnwihtLhnadenEie l, t X thfmwhnreoAeooa m ebstNs tao ir caDredpol ycyoRvn o o ipI4srrfAhgutd hSoilenta w dcC rioe anobntfgh fet n uaefeonroriaygnbrre.eell ley Asitn hfsbC teSeeihtir rntt1r ihanib0sig,ett hiian ng briabinmeuirrvteipede lrodma’seril-stan eattpihygnnpeset g eia vr dfsi reie ieaongw trhdtu, eti srrswshi esaooiestr wnchdstd. nee t dOsh aic entrtrh oei mbe areos d st.

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