A Park Avenue Dermatologist's — Program for Beautiful Skin in Just Four Minutes a Day EAL SCHULTZ, B. M.D., with W -9- (\ Not It's Just About Wrinkles O A Park Avenue Dermatologist's Program for Beautiful Skin—in Just Four Minutes a Day NEAL SCHULTZ, B. M.D., with Laura Morton STEWART, TABORI & CHANG NEW YORK Editor: Jennifer Levesque Designer: Nancy Leonard Production Manager: Kim Tyner Libraryof Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data: Schultz, Neal B. It's not just aboutwrinkles : a ParkAvenue dermatologist's program for beautiful skin in justfour minutes a day/ by Neal B. Schultzwith Laura Morton. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 1-58479-407-0 1. Skin—Care and hygiene. 2. Beauty, Personal. I. Morton, Laura, 1964- II. Title. RL87.S362006 616.5—dc22 2005032118 Text copyright © 2006 by Neal B. Schultz. M.D. Photography credits: Pages 8 and 118: copyright © Francois Portmann; pages 10, 20. 21 22, 23, 2i , 32, 53, 60 (bottom), 73, 75, 116, 162, 163, 168, 169, 172, 181, 182, and 187: copyright © Neal B. Schultz, M.D. pages 25, 34, 35, 47, 54, 58, 60 (top), 86, 110, 112, 153, and 173 copyright © Mitchell McCormack Illustrations on pages 37, 159, 160, and 165: copyright ©The Design Spot Published in 2006 byStewart, Tabori & Chang An imprintof Harry N. Abrams, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion ofthis book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, ortransmitted in anyform or byanymeans, mechanical, electronic, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, withoutwritten permission from the publisher. The text ofthis bookwas composed inTheSans and Swiss Printed and bound in Canada 10987654321 HNAII harry n. abrams,inc. asubsidiaryofLaMartiniereCroupe 115West 18th Street NewYork, NY 10011 www.hnabooks.com DEDICATION o This book is dedicated to my patients, who have taught me the majority of what know about the art of medicine; will be eternally grateful for I I all they have given me. have shared in their successes and failures, and I our mutual respect has created a bond that makes my career far more rewarding than any other can imagine. Their smiles and gratitude are I priceless, and am privileged to experience them every day. I CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 6 CHAPTER FOUR 62 How Your Skin Got Where It Is CHAPTER ONE 16 Time Is a Great Healer But a Lousy Beautician Color and Texture • Genetics Color • The Sun • Browns • Smoking • Reds • Human Nature • More on Blood Vessels • African American-related Skin Concerns CHAPTER FIVE 78 Texture Diet and Skin • Acne Vitamins and Minerals That Help Your • Enlarged Pores Complexion Color, Texture, and Contour Combinations Some Fallacies about Skin and Nutrition CHAPTER TWO 38 CHAPTER SIX 88 Your Skin Recapture and Restore Your Beautiful Skin What Is Skin? • The Epidermis Let's Take a Closer Look at Some Common • The Dermis Products • The Subcutaneous Layer • Cleansers Taking the Confusion Out of Skin Care CHAPTER THREE 48 • Toners Your Skin Type • Choosing an Active Ingredient That's Right for You The Importance of Skin Types • Sunscreens and Moisturizers Cosmetic, or Facial-skin Types • Normal Skin CHAPTER SEVEN 104 • Oily/Acne-prone Skin The Program • Dry Skin The Simple Four-step Program • Combination Skin Morning Routine • Mature Skin • Step One: Cleanse the Skin • Sensitive Skin • Step Two: Prepare the Skin with Toner Fitzpatrick Skin Types • Step Three: Use an Active Ingredient • What's Your Skin Type? (Quiz) • Step Four: Apply Sunscreen c -o Evening Routine CHAPTER ELEVEN 156 • Step One: Cleanse the Skin Botox, Collagen, and Other Fillers • Step Two: Prepare the Skin with Toner What Does Botox Do? • Step Three: Use an Active Ingredient Collagen and Other Fillers • Step Four: Apply Moisturizer Restylane and Hylaform CHAPTER EIGHT 114 CHAPTER TWELVE 170 Skin Type-specific Products for Your Neck, Hands, and Decolletage Program CHAPTER THIRTEEN 176 Choosing Your Products Other Procedures Skin-care Program for Oily/Acne-prone Skin Skin-care Program for Combination Skin Filler Material Skin-care Program for Dry Skin • Torn Earlobes Skin-care Program for Mature Skin Sclerotherapy Skin-care Program for Normal Skin Laser Therapy Skin-care Program for Sensitive Skin • Laser Hair Removal Skin-care Products for Other Concerns • Tattoo Removal • Brown-spot and Age-spot Removal/Freckle CHAPTER NINE 142 Removal Maintain Your New Luster • Laser Therapy for Broken Capillaries Including SpiderVeins and Varicose Veins Choose Your Sun Carefully • Laser Therapy for Hemangiomas The Smoking Gun • Laser Therapy for Periocular Veins It Can Happen to You If You KnowWhat to Do • Laser Resurfacing Dermabrasion CHAPTER TEN .148 Microdermabrasion Men's Skin Care Not Just Venus and Mars SOME FINAL THOUGHTS 190 Men's Skin Care ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 194 GLOSSARY 196 SELECTED SOURCES 200 INDEX 203 6 Introduction FOR MORE THAN TWENTY-FIVE YEARS, I've enjoyed immense gratification in my career. In that time working as a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist on Park Avenue in New York, I've helped tens of thousands of patients improve the quality and appearance of their facial skin. The bottom-line result has always been a meaningful enhancement of my — patients'self-esteem and overall sense ofwell-being it's a no-brainer:when we look better we feel better. As a physician, it is truly rewarding to witness the newfound smiles of patients looking at theirfresh reflection in the mirror. It's just plain fun to be able to share in the joy when my patients discover, with minimal effort, how to finally achieve the skin they've always wanted. When it comes to your face, this book may be the most important resource you'll ever encounter. Like the Rosetta stone, it will be your ulti- mate guide in deciphering your skin problems. After reading this book,you "Wherever the art of medicine is loved, there also love of humanity." is HIPPOCRATES o will at last understand what your face needs, because take the mystery, I confusion, and complexity out of skin care by revealing dermatologists' trade secrets.This book will swing open the door to your having the flaw- less, younger-looking skin you've always wanted, but just didn't know how to get! How? It's so simple. Based on my clinically proven techniques, the book will not only help you identify what's really bothering you, but will also tell you how to fix it in simple-to-understand terms. You won't need a scientific or medical background to understand the techniques: You will learn how to identify what's really bothering you about your facial skin, including color issues such as red and brown spots and texture issues such as dry, flaky, dull- looking or large-pored skin. You will learn how to look into a mirror and INTRODUCTION