ITALIAN VENICE 44339988..iinndddd ii 2200//0055//1144 99::4444 PPMM Venice will not be worthy of the twentieth century until the Grand Canal is transformed into the most beautiful road in the world, with a footpath on each side, two lines of trees and two steam- driven tramways, and a paved road in the middle. [The old Venice could perhaps be] transported piece by piece and re- erected in some English park or between a coal mine and a tanning shop in Chicago. With the Grand Canal buried, the area will be more beautiful, with five- storey housing adorned with iron- clad attics and concrete frames, steel balconies, plastered light yellow and with pinkish shutters. We shall have Piazza San Marco covered in glass. The two columns of the Piazzetta will be removed and replaced by a sign that recalls their removal. At the museum, a life- size model of a gondola will be preserved. It will be made of ebony or silver or gilded copper or black velvet. Archaeologist nightmare of 1887, as recounted in Giacomo Boni, Il cosidetto sventramento: appunti di un veneziano (Rome: Stabilmento Tipografico Italiano, 1887), 5–7 For a Venetian a bridge is a necessary structure for passage across a city built on water, which you normally cross by foot. For a tourist . . . a bridge is something else. Every bridge and not just the Rialto. It is a lookout where you stop to admire the view, and to take ‘unforgettable’ photographs from one side and then the other, assuming automatically that anyone who wants to pass will stop and wait. It is also a place where you can stop and exchange impressions with friends or, especially if you are young, sit on the steps. . . . Such tourists simply do not see the urban purpose of the bridge, and neither do the great majority of other tourists who throng around. They only see a place of beauty, leisure and socialisation. Enrico Tantucci, A che ora chiude Venezia? Breve guida alla disneylandizzazione della città (Venice: Corte del Fontego, 2011), 6–7 44339988..iinndddd iiii 2200//0055//1144 99::4444 PPMM R.J.B. BOSWORTH I TA L I A N V E N I C E A HISTORY YALE UNIVERSITY PRESS NEW HAVEN AND LONDON 44339988..iinndddd iiiiii 2200//0055//1144 99::4444 PPMM For Giovanni Minelli Copyright © 2014 R. J. B. Bosworth All rights reserved. This book may not be reproduced in whole or in part, in any form (beyond that copying permitted by Sections 107 and 108 of the U.S. Copyright Law and except by reviewers for the public press) without written permission from the publishers. For information about this and other Yale University Press publications, please contact: U.S. Office: [email protected] www.yalebooks.com Europe Office: [email protected] www.yalebooks.co.uk Set in Minion Pro Pro by IDSUK (DataConnection) Ltd Printed in Great Britain by TJ International Ltd, Padstow, Cornwall Library of Congress Cataloging- in- Publication Data Bosworth, R. J. B. Italian Venice : a history / R.J.B. Bosworth. pages cm Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-300-19387-9 (cloth : alkaline paper) 1. Venice (Italy)—History—1797–1866. 2. Venice (Italy)—History—1866– 3. Venice (Italy)—Social conditions. 4. Social change—Italy—Venice—History. 5. Venice (Italy)—Politics and government. I. Title. DG678.5.B67 2014 945ʹ.31109—dc23 2014018999 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 44339988..iinndddd iivv 2200//0055//1144 99::4444 PPMM Contents List of illustrations and maps vi Introduction x 1 Awaiting an Italian destiny: Venice to 1866 1 2 The lights and shadows of Liberal improvement in Venice, 1866–1900 23 3 Venice in the belle époque 51 4 Venice and its First World War 77 5 Peace and the imposition of Fascism on Venice, 1919–1930 105 6 Venice between Volpi and Mussolini, 1930–1940 135 7 Venice, Nazi- fascist war and American peace, 1940–1948 158 8 The many deaths of post- war Venice, 1948–1978 185 9 Death postponed through globalised rebirth (and mass tourism)? 213 Conclusion 244 Notes 250 Bibliography 290 Acknowledgements 311 Index 314 44339988..iinndddd vv 2233//0055//1144 1122::3399 PPMM Illustrations and Maps Illustrations page 1. Hotel San Fantin. Michal Bosworth. xix 2. Campo Cesare Battisti. Michal Bosworth. 3 3. Luidi Querena, Explosion of a Mine at San Ghuliano, 1849. © Cameraphoto Arte, Venice. 13 4. Campo Manin with Cassa di Risparmio in the background. Michal Bosworth. 25 5. Manin’s tomb. Michal Bosworth. 27 6. Tomaso Filippi, photograph of Corte Soresina, Castello. © Fondo Fotografico Tomaso Filippi, I.R.E. Venezia. 32 7. Lace makers, L’Illustrazione italiana, 15 March 1914, p. 258. Biblioteca di Archeologia e Storia dell’Arte, Roma. 38 8. Archduke Ferdinand in Venice, 1910. L’Illustrazione italiana, ‘L’arciduca a Venezia nella primavera del 1910’, 5 July 1914, p. 6. Biblioteca di Archeologia e Storia dell’Arte, Roma. 57 9. ‘The Kaiser visits Venice’, L’Illustrazione italiana, 29 March 1914, p. 299. Biblioteca di Archeologia e Storia dell’Arte, Roma. 58 10. Ambitious plans for the Lido, L’Illustrazione italiana, 5 April 1914, p. 341. Biblioteca di Archeologia e Storia dell’Arte, Roma. 61 11. The bombed interior of the Scalzi, 25 October 1915. Giovanni Scarabello, Il Martirio di Venezia durante la Grande Guerra e l’opera di difesa della marina italiana, Gazzettino Illustrato Venezia. vol. 1, 1933, pp. 66–7. 79 12. Sauro slab. Michal Bosworth. 80 44339988..iinndddd vvii 2200//0055//1144 99::4444 PPMM ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS vii 13. Aerial defence from the altane of the city. Giovanni Scarabello, Il Martirio di Venezia durante la Grande Guerra e l’opera di difesa della marina italiana, Gazzettino Illustrato Venezia. vol. 1, 1933, p.53. 89 14. San Marco, without the Quadriga, defended. Giovanni Scarabello, Il Martirio di Venezia durante la Grande Guerra e l’opera di difesa della marina italiana, Gazzettino Illustrato Venezia. vol. 1, 1933, p.32. 90 15. Map of the bombed city, 1915–18. Giovanni Scarabello, Il Martirio di Venezia durante la Grande Guerra e l’opera di difesa della marina italiana, Gazzettino Illustrato Venezia. vol. 1, 1933, p. 61. 97 16. Barrage balloons. Giovanni Scarabello, Il Martirio di Venezia durante la Grande Guerra e l’opera di difesa della marina italiana, Gazzettino Illustrato Venezia. vol. 1, 1933, p.55. 98 17. Marghera, from Quaderno mensile, Giovanni Giurati (Jnr), Il porto di venezia:aspetti e problemi della sua rinascita. Venezia, Premiate Officine Grafiche, C. Ferrari, 1924. 101 18. Giuseppe Volpi, Count of Misurata, Giovanni Scarabello, Il Martirio di Venezia durante la Grande Guerra e l’opera di difesa della marina italiana, Gazzettino Illustrato Venezia. vol. 1, 1933, p. 21. 107 19. Colonna Rostrata, Giardini. Michal Bosworth. 110 20. Aeroporto Nicelli, Lido. Michal Bosworth. 112 21. Interior of Aeroporto Nicelli with aeropitture. Michal Bosworth. 112 22. Mussolini, the uniformed Giordano, Il Gazzettino Illustrato, 10 June 1923. 121 23. Marghera, from Quaderno mensile, Giovanni Giurati (Jnr), Il porto di venezia:aspetti e problemi della sua rinascita. Venezia, Premiate Officine Grafiche, C. Ferrari, 1924. 123 24. Blatas panel. Michal Bosworth. 138 25. Holocaust memorial, 2012. Michal Bosworth. 139 26. La Partigiana. Michal Bosworth. 159 27. The city dedicated to La Partigiana. Michal Bosworth. 160 28. Memorial inscription to Roncalli. Michal Bosworth. 186 29. The Stucky Hilton. Michal Bosworth. 187 30. Pius X bust. Michal Bosworth. 199 31. Campo San Salvador during the floods, 1966. FAST Foto Archivio Storico Trevigiano della Provincia di Treviso – Italia – Fondo Borlui. 204 44339988..iinndddd vviiii 2200//0055//1144 99::4444 PPMM viii ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAPS 32. San Servolo as asylum, archival photograph reproduced with thanks to Istituto per le ricerche e gli studi sull’emarginazione sociale e culturale. 215 33. Advertisement in Piazza San Marco. Michal Bosworth. 216 34. Cyclists on the Zattere, Il Gazzettino, 22 May 1978. Fotoattualità, Agenzia Fototgrafica di Venezia. 219 35. Piazzetta after Pink Floyd, Il Gazzettino, 17 July 1989. Fotoattualita, Agenzia Fototgrafica di Venezia. 224 36. The ‘tankette’ in Piazza San Marco. 232 37. Ferry stop notice. Michal Bosworth. 241 Maps page 1. Venice and its sestieri ix 2. Rialto and surrounds 2 3. Piazza San Marco 29 4. The Lido 60 5. Railway station and surrounds 78 6. Frari Church and surrounds 106 7. Biennale site and surrounds 109 8. The Venetian Lagoon 188 9. La Fenice and surrounds 227 44339988..iinndddd vviiiiii 2200//0055//1144 99::4444 PPMM 44339988..iinndddd iixx 2200//0055//1144 99::4444 PPMM