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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL THE ITALIAN RIVIERA 001_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 3 09/09/16 10:50 am EYEWITNESS TRAVEL THE ITALIAN RIVIERA 001_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 3 09/09/16 10:50 am 002-003_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 2 09/09/16 10:46 am EYEWITNESS TRAVEL THE ITALIAN RIVIERA 002-003_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 3 09/09/16 10:46 am Contents How to Use this Guide 6 Produced By Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan, Italy Project Editor Emanuela Damiani Editors Emanuela Damiani, Giovanna Morselli Designers Silvana Ghioni, Alberto Ipsilanti, Modi Artistici Contributors Fabrizio Ardito, Sonia Cavicchioli, Maurizia De Martin, Gianluigi Lanza Photographer Lucio Rossi Illustrators Andrea Barison, Gianluca Fiorani Cartography Roberto Capra, Luca Signorelli Dorling Kindersley Limited Publishing Managers Fay Franklin, Kate Poole Senior Editor Marisa Renzullo Translator Fiona Wild Ecce Homo by Antonello da Messina, Editor Emily Hatchwell Palazzo Spinola, Genoa Consultant Leonie Loudon Production Linda Dare Introducing the Printed and bound in China First American Edition, 2005 Italian Riviera 16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Discovering the Italian 345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014. Riviera 10 Reprinted with revisions 2008, 2011, 2014, 2017 Copyright © Mondadori Electra SpA 2003. Published under exclusive licence by Dorling Kindersley Limited. Putting the Italian Riviera English text copyright © Dorling Kindersley Limited 2004, 2017. on the Map 16 A Penguin Random House Company. All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or A Portrait of the Italian transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, Riviera 18 recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. The Italian Riviera A catolog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. Through the Year 32 ISSN 1542-1554 ISBN 978-1-4654-5732-5 The History of the Italian Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European Riviera 36 usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. The Ligurian Gothic church of Sant’Andrea Front cover main image: Riomaggiore, one of the famous Cinque Terre villages in Levanto Pastel coloured houses in the village of Manarola, Cinque Terre 004-005_Italian_Riviera_US.indd 4 21/10/2016 15:59 Genoa Area by Area Genoa at a Glance 50 Il Centro Storico 52 Le Strade Nuove 70 Further Afield 84 Genoa Street Finder 94 The Italian Riviera Area by Area The Italian Riviera at a The delightful scene at Paraggi, near Portofino Glance 106 The Riviera Survival The Riviera di Ponente 134 Guide di Levante 108 Travellers’ Practical Information Needs 206 Where to Stay 178 Travel Information 210 Where to Eat & Drink 184 General Prized Ligurian Index 212 olive oil Shopping 198 Phrase Book 223 Outdoor Activities 200 Road Map The port of San Remo, a popular resort Entertainment 202 Inside back cover town in the Italian Riviera Genoa’s revamped Porto Antico 004-005_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 5 09/09/16 10:49 am 6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE The detailed information and tips given in Riviera di Levante and the Riviera this guide will help you to get the most out of di Ponente, respectively, using maps, your visit to the Italian Riviera. Introducing the photographs and illustrations. Restaurant Italian Riviera maps the region of Liguria and and hotel recommendations can be found sets it in its historical and cultural context. in the section Travellers’ Needs, together The section Genoa Area by Area describes the with information about shopping, outdoor main sights in the regional capital. The Italian activities and entertainment. The Survival Riviera Area by Area describes the sights and Guide has tips on everything from transport resorts east and west of Genoa along the to making a telephone call. Genoa Area by Area Further Afield describes areas Detailed information for The centre of Genoa has been outside the city centre. All each sight is presented in divided into two sightseeing the sights are numbered and numerical order, making it areas, each with its own chapter. plotted on an Area Map. easy to locate. 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D'ADFNNUePNDVeZIIVIOAr AA . r FNIZaVESZVT.rCE HAICEi RECCNARSADIVAGZLIAIZATLAA L E GSRV.I .A IL A EA CFO E .N o B SCVA.rRSO IBD IALmOOO MS a CB O OpCÀ OTSEDROPS O sIHC RA ILGED y . V VImXA I. X FRVUGbONI . V. o MIAPR AGl LPIVA sNOO. V. L s D.G I eSFTIAS.EOLeEL AMT b DTAVaIA' E CACEScAMREASAkTGB EfV.GRla IEGRpANE LV.L OBRIGATA LIGURIA Aaaarn lmeld tna hlpoue.cm saibgteehdrte so dn 00 myaerdtrses 5050 VIA SAN SIRO VIA CAIROLI MEPRIAIDZIZAAN A PwfeMaxaçaaalasnam dbnzepzee olrgiesi su doamne fd .liG nePel oi1ng5doh6eet3fssu.te Tlà h e ldoPvaaetillnyag zB zfaroroo mDqou 1re5i af6a 3hç–aa6sd 7ea. K ey Suggested route 2STthries egti-vbeys -aS tbrierde’ts -Meyaep v iew of the heart of each sightseeing area. 7GfodrTiinnrehfeoetlc ae isomnSottyas orana toatoain shntny’rtse eiereSd gumad i 4Oincrfn protitcertshild io,esie nehccn,n eor ro tt ewn(ehw ssctseaepaeu.es tllvr e ahupyente.8nre Td,d0 d dh1e)re,aue6n wrlrtet tehp a hwt kraocioceire tebhanhn a nfttbmibuuroyelrra y n yttrt rh.debh aTedaalche t tei ee ts s VIA DELLA MADDALENA VICO ANGELI VIA SALVAGHIVIA GARIBALD57I6 P a lGaPEIzFANEZzORZoRAAO DAR.R oEAs sBoY AFMPROAIENARATZOAZSNAE E ChioMssuosneoe PAVLIASIZTOZROS ’ RCOHESCSKOLI ST 77 tShtaaFtorr honstelsS paoGainasednn n VTrise oeh1hscnevet8,oaus d tFguelshlr er aea-waicclnnnltseeoictdirsnorhc y kMitnn i suai ,anti tnrnharay dtsisc sh oE lb wFauiusy6lrtdeer e hoRealml roep us.sai ueebsas esah e slePpnsa nop 1ar dsmptg8al,ia 0haisesne zpihh an tnzilnoimatnuodiwynogm ppBsegns pobi1,s a1hrs.3e 8tnuuTetra9 hh ccrn–oeoh–es9tf. 0lidg hmtsis s. Pnofoa Clwao zhmzoomu Cseearscr reteh.gea C Chaatmabldeir TeoItwRBsdsIbonthhuhxrinfue edws iecetit grirsVaeoh cdi ae1ni ndrieplnees a6fiogimso o ca,n b7e sGl ltr,lWetfu0 xiauh aerau(-hszderioeSnnrll,oziltdi e ardbdybtof slbd hrld s ieaa,eertt y oeew sdhlis sWdDt n .cPc emtshfia heao i,oiari erpe raeceitr Fr cha hnt IsaettaIhune ,hh dnra ro rbisratee ntrewao .ousr r ddharStn.eent i r Wee, dcetgs iFtgheoio )irghioc,l ate al tpCohleisfv n es am polntten clc thne7r o thaoattredci8hfhmaj eo tAe –imedse ontlse9lt sa ibr.tDupa sfytfPpbiiocauootn naoo rclrcr oiao lt o’w fnashtahfc th t zoeh weertehdzeehbsr e oeoter. sse lBroeT te trso Rdoradk sh tirrGoiu irghdee ailaGgesmine isrottssdeiai iownohd cpo Flladlia eotneritwcsueleayn -o mibraSonms cnliacsonauuce a, urt leu idssMiieh1lcnp sdrai m8ehc fn atimofa7 nio rl 1aotfmGo4ig ao n9aanio etg. i5sn slrn eiy0 dsoo d si nna s. CGidtnheer aResitl2togi rfn9ooeogymlrle iifo ndr2 e D81bs 9eywc4 o bFe2eeor.esrm rbabyrsi 30 3217 32 3334 TLdbbnohaiyrsuc tepFusaPV5&O99N9 llhCrelai5ap:ro3a pawaam7ymom 0vle Gr csi=–ao4os–tn itaFmMgmsi97kirsr rhcAk irpti b7a–,ae b pom2riSma96lan:yr l.:f:t –Id933t ∑r WnoCt BOa00oiv hfd1mapaezeicoir8me rdmzstmrtr–a.: il ,un mc Ms–69v T(uS oaa:71aaha3aaasn:msr5gnu03ttepid v8ip0t gd&i– o&ydao5p1mi6 n oS stiSm– wCpgSh,u a T12m(ie tneitunRSt6.,rn . he uos 9o4TT o–pn aueo4zhvFm;ielzm) riar0 ,seii –.,1 i d t70 ) . Ath esu mgogrees itnetder reostuinteg fsotrre ae wts ainlk covers BisrnVoiphgacAFoviinnlctienulnhdot rDdtaueee lof.efe rryirfpngeto-i crtoSos nzm khGP as rest rioilithoes annuer– cVstearp l iifRieitai aoanoait2rrco lsnmn, asv2 ta oswu oeui- Dtoitmyppldafrhsyf eeyote t ihbfuah bc2csrooribhsky9eeys-rf. 2387 366 735 8 RAFBrorpaioagnmrncteomssl e3ceo-8nS –tIals4 l oe3f Gio. the area. 4 53 1 16 9 lfaBATdaunhrelvricdigcnissoo n ihfesveroh naaaaletcemteduh-dSo rawe aunwslient tiipht ntfhsaa ga smof tr1lfeeai 8lglrsy tgcpi.hloeto- eacrbtsnerr ndiaeditn tasusctlr ulobyoc fesr cotedohdo w(e mcb o. 1y ri7 sk 8 . I0t) is 3GMchinoeetullenopsroeu eyuarso-t’mscuin oM stgd oa aee nljdxoodh cflr gia obSatoiieltglr set h.phritleeas s nm hso atsovte GWpiuVm“tDp.nihlesaeerl aheeutnier nhsA seFdsugctpteienl eooseotler erhSldnrGsrplcagaaeei itroistrbl deeoihiemsv ocguDarc iedse”yrneoc eawae a nedroot nillFseioa llffoeaed e s M BiSr ngD rnStstapr oaihte tbsrawaurrro teesrFiygscqh n.ite ficT(swruiogr1coukhren eh6iawibilt siel8r , ey ioon6h d rf– e k i7 .n) EntranP Tfdapdcboebhouirruyoiaerrs nfintAc niwrldtdelga b co,oi i nDttorrnh ek noüRie,nc tfrod haeg saoacrut tm’t tYsbDhe owsje düe1eu i crt3tc1nreht.o5a gr Ii0ndtts h 6Mdiwbte,i rotaac oorsanniupn nap g l lotr bhoosoeit ddIk ti ueenacwrlt.yoe.a d Imyn s o re 2 K eyIaGXRFSRhNtlraoouaVeoetllmoIm,nemni –aXm o-XdnaaiVeseVnne sx–has I l hwXIenla cIea ir oVdcbiar ttStIne ,rhiI E,tt tX ndciaX ,uoa Vteig VrtulnInoliiIIeoor tpcscigneunpeeeosriannairecntitesuue s rr yyof the 15141130 1112 ctShaGfghdfialirlulesleoatbsoldoeahe cttopmlerr o Tr hoicrefybehtrnaclthnew ser eonyitiaar a snnLe zhg( to.sesostA taiiz toTe is mgcr eewrrfttann h,c edudhanhsu tanto aiu eh-la er etrthar3sifne ihihce no2dlnao far3 owhd aiw0oledtc, nn pyo a rht a0eimafi aooeya vtrrlteol4Msosi sthlinrorVro s c rwtkwpotaorBemd gaa n msaelmorso eoi ea rnS,nabtrb srcrmwrGleethan unlo lrtykeDho n ari1laiaos avsnsraaezeGntyre9d as rre aa t iyblcd uokmu dt ottsalr frrksishoiefmeio oleog o nad o .taoltbfe o rhl Tnd chSoo(asegf aeyym1the, ttsi ert nBd wsrSRirC9G i)t ev trortr.Gsuitdre0e a rfoiieaa Ohgfztgiincias6ocbtn riuzgciamateneneir–seriuo toeisli.atrtmcon io7 ldtaii toro eOetfnnoolhee6tnooseirrenlennnnddad)eeyyyi-rrr.,, For hotels and restaurants in this area see p180 and pp189–90 006-007_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 6 21/10/16 12:53 pm HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7 THE ITALIAN RIVIERA AREA BY AREA  109 THE RIVIERA DI 1Introduction LEVANTE The Italian Riviera Area by Area ivTarhtdcteheinh eesogendervitffie te o oalcu,ea lrnrsohrern hs tipaaieod sotr es dshoadw dcacaa eta intysohnsep .dcvegre r e wo,i h brhf hot eiehswadatet o c rhy TdptebiwivnPRanT1miaTpiSietmtntnrhonriho8f,hhnauoeoe,au lTehtf eileu0dpioimtrstnomoercwsahlasniathyw et0irc hargle ucosetnp ic l stetbreshosil fdevoaeeh gsftolavtla,rdRmieoi uiuf y neeeslrnteneotrthno ioir h ah atdtnvlqnt s– ch odnaietfihjuohbmtgoiec naiu sl e,n oetldmtni oefaprluy uhgnhSiheyr altden fngs ycnaelcgu,taggueanwriea n noghf ro rcotnLbnhirdeu rl ttiihrtotscv uilelvnoehoate fcydyiol etpaarr e,aol rdrsd, e hr L heito .laltbnErv rtrdvhihf de sM ehiaT-ianaow m nernsdea at ive,ssoohlediBl fed ghlda sa fnleaoe t lranto fmmeehyeve uorlre en odrsriiiagoeravsnr.isnayst ts tmpta adoaTtRehtssevih usteo lafahustynu sshhd en lu i en–ihrbaspoavn. id reltresetsy; blr enttirc tilp iosd ia sio t eyaictonhgty.o rsdoos b hmoea a,ora uTrt uctot rfpff eIaltnew e ro hhrew tt eltrLmEesetahaoue aehridcae ehdis hunade svgelandepergm et i uei revit caaiban uts i n ion e pL bncfmisottsnniid cealdrnenpongascel ogeenso aesP a,ns ceco e ui v.aco e 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vs e apit mh dternoteaac hleharodtl mlt osieu.ete a p r edne-, Tissoneihngtpeo haa tI trtRswaa ettloogiea i noavcrhin seRaaiaitvpl s aMit,e reeeraraa .p h cTh.ihhga ehso lfmbi gweohehstntiec didhn i t vheiadrese sadt i ng Each area can be quickly identified by its colour coding. 136  THE ITALIAN RIVIERA AREA BY AREA THE RIVIERA DI PONENTE  137 ETSahirkwbBntitvcS1234567890qwertnsharoeerhaoaeai iitcneega vytgaxvepaVtPAASBSNFBPLGAAehhs glao soiaad(ephaiereo hllllr rtmoneppbtbbaih obtrrneveairepon rttiwiltatacpses gsgiiottienneaelra sytssio slszaotn t1pfsaeceoinBosoecottictlz orr 5g o n pogcdl aii aoreNeaaeowLliy tLd no0anaa Valpgu lioiu rl ,iniaai(mtg–g hg eoge nlellpSv(iGTtmrt erla 5dpuuMur aauuoypeolo e e e1ndlppaarraN r1irsp -re es,vaIz)rewa 1tnrG dp elu4 mae zi ritnoi adhl5as0inenid ,rhrron nl2 actl ieet–pee toaotic ase–r eth,m4 nhs B er i t s5n tw3seaoteecghseapor)h )i lcofr,i t l li d la damoveczteceeLa h.ei ae l xinsv ectovSagRl pdptiiidlniasitgs uiohsi nclmseithndioihrdstla t 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For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp181–2 and pp191–4 006-007_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 7 31/10/2016 12:08 008-009_EW_Italian_Riviera.indd 8 09/09/16 10:43 am

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