CULTURE SMART! ISRAEL Jeffrey Geri and Marian Lebor Revised and updated by Daniel Kuperard CS ISRAEL Book FINAL 18.indd 1 05/03/2018 14:54 This book is available for special discounts for bulk purchases for sales promotions or premiums. Special editions, including personalized covers, excerpts of existing books, and corporate imprints, can be created in large quantities for special needs. For more information contact Kuperard publishers at the address below. ISBN 978 1 85733 882 9 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A CIP catalogue entry for this book is available from the British Library First published in Great Britain by Kuperard, an imprint of Bravo Ltd 59 Hutton Grove, London N12 8DS Tel: +44 (0) 20 8446 2440 Fax: +44 (0) 20 8446 2441 www.culturesmart.co.uk Inquiries: [email protected] Series Editor Geoffrey Chesler Design Bobby Birchall Printed in India Cover image: The port of Jaffa with the Tel Aviv skyl;ine in the background. © Shutterstock. The photo on page 73 is reproduced by permission of the Rubin family. Images on the following pages reproduced under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license: 13 (top) © Reutmaor; 19 © ZeevStein; 23 © Benjamín Núñez González; 110 © Dotan Doron; 131 (top) © Eurovaran. Reproduced under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license: 18 © Classical Numismatic Group, Inc. http://www.cngcoins.com; 20 © Berthold Werner; 51 © Ladymantequilla; 55, 84 (bottom) © בקעי; 66 © Oleg Moro; 67, 84 (top) © Adiel lo; 85 (bottom) © Yoninah; 90 © Peter van der Sluijs; 92 © Ketubbot Collection of the National Library of Israel; 95 (left) © Aviv Hod; 95 (right) © user:shako; 113 © Tzahy Lerner; 120 (top), 129 Deror Avi; 121 © Bernd Schwabe in Hannover; 124 © The Israel Museum, Jerusalem Collection; 131 (bottom) © Kw0; 134 © Oyoyoy; 140 © Noam. armonn; 142 © Michael Paul Gollmer de:Benutzer:Mipago; 158 © Michael Plutchok. Under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Germany license: 137 © Sheepdog85. Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic license: 12 © דלוג הטילפ: 13 (bottom) © arie tennbaum; 81 © Olve Utne; 87 © Amos Gil; 109 © רכייט ישיבא; 117 © Laliv Pikiwiki Israel; 125 © Richard Holmes; 148 © shaula haitner; 159 © Original uploader was Hmbr at he.wikipedia. Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0 Generic license: 17 © Xavier Gillet, Bordeaux, France; 85 (top) © StateofIsrael; 115 © Jeremy Keith from Brighton & Hove, United Kingdom; 120 (bottom) © Gage Skidmore from Peoria, AZ, United States of America; 126 © Jorge Láscar from Australia; 132 © Ricardo Tulio Gandelman from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil; 135 © Neil Ward; 136 © askii. Pages 94, 108, 150, 164 © Shutterstock; page 154 © Israel Museum. CS ISRAEL Book FINAL 18.indd 2 05/03/2018 14:54 About the Authors JEFFREY GERI was a South African-born barrister who made Israel his home in the early 1960s. Involved in all aspects of Israeli life, he brought up three Israeli sons and worked extensively in tourism and advertising. He wrote several novels, two of which, Oh Henry and The Trouble With Francis, were based on the theme of immigration to Israel. Sadly, Jeffrey died in 2013. MARIAN LEBOR is a journalist, filmmaker, and teacher born and educated in London. After graduating in History from Queen Mary College, London University, she moved to Israel with her young family in 1994. She writes for a variety of English-language publications in Israel and abroad on Israel-related themes, and her work has appeared in The Guardian and in Anglo-Jewish newspapers. She currently produces short feature films that highlight Israel’s diversity and culture for online magazines. The Culture Smart! series is continuing to expand. All Culture Smart! guides are available as e-books, and many as audio books. For latest titles visit www.culturesmart.co.uk The publishers would like to thank CultureSmart!Consulting for its help in researching and developing the concept for this series. CultureSmart!Consulting creates tailor-made seminars and consultancy programs to meet a wide range of corporate, public-sector, and individual needs. Whether delivering courses on multicultural team building in the USA, preparing Chinese engineers for a posting in Europe, training call-center staff in India, or raising the awareness of police forces to the needs of diverse ethnic communities, it provides essential, practical, and powerful skills worldwide to an increasingly international workforce. For details, visit www.culturesmartconsulting.com CultureSmart!Consulting and CultureSmart! guides have both contributed to and featured regularly in the weekly travel program “Fast Track” on BBC World TV. CS ISRAEL Book FINAL 18.indd 3 05/03/2018 14:54 ccoonntetnetsnts Map of Israel 7 Introduction 8 Key Facts 10 Chapter 1: LAND AND PEOPLE 12 • Geography 12 • Climate 13 • A Brief History 14 • Key Events Since 1948 35 • Israelis Today 45 • Government 50 • The Economy 54 • The Israel Defense Force (IDF) 56 • Cities and Towns 58 • The Kibbutz 60 • The Moshav 63 Chapter 2: VALUES AND ATTITUDES 64 • War and Peace 64 • Religion 66 • Family Life 72 • Togetherness and Groups 73 • Attitudes Toward Each Other 74 • Attitudes Toward Minorities 76 • War and the Israeli Psyche 78 • Humor 78 Chapter 3: CUSTOMS AND TRADITIONS 80 • Jewish Festivals and Public Holidays 80 • Muslim and Christian Festivals 89 • Rites of Passage 90 • Courtship and Marriage 91 • Death and Mourning 93 CS ISRAEL Book FINAL 18.indd 4 05/03/2018 14:54 Chapter 4: MAKING FRIENDS 94 • Hospitality 94 • Gift Giving 97 • Manners 99 • Immigrant Associations 100 Chapter 5: DAILY LIFE 104 • Homes and Lifestyles 104 • Weekday Routine 106 • Education 108 • Leisure and Sports 112 Chapter 6: TIME OUT 114 • Wining and Dining 114 • Shopping 118 • Fashion 120 • The Performing Arts 121 • Museums and Galleries 124 • Cultural Festivals 125 • Nightlife 126 • Beaches 127 Chapter 7: TRAVEL, HEALTH, AND SECURITY 130 • Flying 130 • Taxis 130 • Buses 131 • Trains 132 • Driving 132 • Seeing the Country 135 • Health Care and Emergency Services 145 • Safety and Security 147 CS ISRAEL Book FINAL 18.indd 5 05/03/2018 14:54 ccoonntetnetsnts CHAPTER 8: BUSINESS BRIEFING 148 • Business Culture 148 • Protocol and Presentations 149 • Personal Relations 150 • Negotiating Styles 151 • Contracts and Fulfillment 152 • Women in Business 153 CHAPTER 9: COMMUNICATING 154 • Language 154 • Body Language 157 • The Media 157 • Telephone and Internet: The Online Nation 160 • Mail 162 • Conclusion 163 Further Reading 165 Index 166 CS ISRAEL Book FINAL 18.indd 6 05/03/2018 14:54 7 m a p o Map of Israel f isra e l LEBANON Kiryat Shmona Nahariya Rosh PinaHGEOIGLHATNS Acre (Akko) Safed MEDITERRANEAN HMaOifUaNTs CARKMEaLTrmibSEie’Aer OilaF sGALILEE (KINNERET) SYRIA Nazareth SEA Caesarea Afula s Hadera J Netanya WEST RO BANK AD Herzliya N Tel Aviv-Jaffa Petach Tikvah VIR Ramle RE Ashdod Rehovot Jerusalem Ashkelon DEAD SEA A Z A G Masada s Beersheba Dimona NEGEV JORDAN DESERT EGYPT Eilat GULF OAF QABA CS ISRAEL Book FINAL 18.indd 7 05/03/2018 14:54 8 el iinnttrrodoudctuiocntion a sr art! i m s e Culture Smart! Israel sets out to condense an ur ult extremely complex subject into a compact guide c that will help you discover the Israel behind the clichés. This dynamic, diverse, and paradoxical country is steeped in history and biblical associations, yet most Israelis are modern, secular, and energetically materialistic. Visitors from abroad will find much that is familiar, and more that is unexpected. To soften the impact of the latter, this book offers insights and essential human information that will deepen your understanding of the Israeli people and enable you to make the most of your visit. Israel embraces its many visitors—tourists, businesspeople, foreign representatives, pilgrims, and, most of all, those who have come to stay. The Israelis love showing off their country and its not inconsiderable accomplishments over seventy years of statehood. They glow when a returning guest says, “I can’t believe the development that I have seen,” or when a business traveler says, “Next time I’ll bring my family,” and they are genuinely upset when it happens, as is inevitable with over 3.5 million tourists a year, that the occasional visitor has a bad experience. Israelis like to be liked. So, for now, Bon Voyage through these pages. You will read about the formative influence of CS ISRAEL Book FINAL 18.indd 8 05/03/2018 14:54 9 introduction in tro d u c tio n Israel’s ancient and modern history, its geography, and what makes Israelis the way they are. You will acquaint yourself with Israel’s democratic institutions, rich cultural life, wide range of cuisines, sports and leisure opportunities, sandy beaches, and lively city streets, and you will understand its dilemmas. The Israelis you will meet will be from all walks of life. They will be more or less sophisticated depending on their occupations, where they live, or where they were brought up. They will almost always be friendly, helpful, direct— perhaps to a fault—and resourceful. Some will be well mannered; others won’t. A few may be Holocaust survivors; many will be the children and grandchildren of Holocaust survivors. They will all carry with them memories of Israel’s wars, in which relatives, comrades, and loved ones fell in defense of the country. Finally, you will learn what to expect and how to behave in different social circumstances, so that you can avoid misunderstandings and make genuine friends and valued business partners. Israelis are great travelers, and those whom you visit may one day visit you. “Bruchim Habaim!” Welcome! CS ISRAEL Book FINAL 18.indd 9 05/03/2018 14:54