IS 188: Textiles - Cotton Poplin

2004·1.2 MB·English

by  Bureau of Indian Standards

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IS 188 (2004): Textiles - Cotton Poplin [TXD 31: Man-Made
Fibres, Cotton and their Products]
“!ान $ एक न’ भारत का +नम-ण”
Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda
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“Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen”

IS 1-88:2004
(Amalgamating IS7104)
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Indian Standard
TEXTILES — COTTON POPLIN – SPECIFICATION
(Third Revision)
ICS 59.060.10;59.080.30

0 BIS2004
BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS
MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG
NEW DELHI 110002

June 2004 Price Group 3
Man-Made Fibres, Cotton and Their Products Sectional Committee,TX31
FOREWORD
This Indian Standard (Third Revision) was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after the draft finalized by
the Man-Made Fibres, Cotton and Their Products Sectional Committee had been approved by the Textile
Division Council.
This standard, originally published in 1951,wasfirst revised in 1965. The second revision was taken up in 1980to
delete onevarietyofPoplin andthecolour fastnesstobleaching. Thethird revision hasbeenundertaken toamalgam-
ateanother standard IS7104:1973 ‘Specification forpoplin (market variety)’, withthisstandard asthesameproduct
has been covered in both the standards.
Poplin isgenerally defined asafabric in which end density isabout twice the pick density and either warp andweft
countare sameor weft count isslightly coarser.
The composition ofthe Committee responsible for thepreparation of thisstandard isgiven inAnnex C.
For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard is complied with, the final value,
observed orcalculated, expressing theresult of atestoranalysis, shallberounded off inaccordance withIS2:1960
‘Rulesfor rounding off numerical values (revised)’. The number of significant places retained in the rounded off
value shouldbe the same asthat ofthe specified value inthis standard.
IS 188:2004
Indian Standard
TEXTILES — COTTON POPLIN — SPECIFICATION
(Third Revision)
1SCOPE 4.3 The cloth when visually examined for serious and
major flaws ascategorized under Annex Bshallbecon-
1.1 This standard prescribes the requirements of three
sidered satisfactory if the number of serious and major
varieties ofcotton poplin, bleached or dyed. flawsdoes notexceed the following limit:
1.2 This standard does not specify general appearance, Serious flaws : Nil
feel, shade, etc,ofthe cloth (seealso 4.3). Major flaws : 5/100 m
2REFERENCES
4.4Sealed Sample
ThestandardslistedinAnnex Acontainprovisions which
If,inordertoillustrate.orspecifytheindeterminable-char-,
through reference in this text, constitute provisions of acteristics, such as general appearance, lustre, feel and
this standard. At the time of publication, the editions shade of the cloth, a sample has been agreed upon and
indicatedwerevalid.Allstandards aresubjecttorevision, sealed,thesupply shallbeinconformity withthesample
and parties to agreements based on this standard are en- insuchrespects.
couraged to investigate the possibility of applying the
mostrecenteditionsofthestandardsindicatedinAnnexA. 4.4.1 The custody of the sealed sample shallbeamatter
ofprior agreement between thebuyer and theseller.
3MANUFACTURE
5MARKING
3.1Yarn
5.1 The cloth shallbe marked with the following :
The yarn used in the manufacture of the poplin shallbe
satisfactory in evenness and reasonably free from neps a) Name ofthe material;
and spinning defects. b) Length and width ofthe piece;
c) Manufacturer’s name, initialsortrade-mark, ifany;
3.2 Cloth and

d) Month andyear of manufacture.
The cloth shallbe freefrom dressing a nd fillingmateri-
als and from substances liable to cause subsequent 5.1.1 At the other end of the piece, the cloth shall be
tendering. The cloth shall be mercerized. marked with anidentification mark.
3.2.1 The bleached cloth shall have a full bleached
5.2BIS Certification Markbg
finish.
The cloth may alsobe marked with the Standard Mark.
NOTE—Theclothshallbefreefromblueingoropticalwhit-
eningagents,ifrequiredbythebuyer. 5.2.1 The use of the Standard Mark is governed by the
provisionsoftheBureau ofIndian Stanh-ds Act, 1986 and
4REQUIREMENTS
theRulesandRegulationsmadethereunder.The detailsof
4.1 Constructional Particulars conditionsunderwhichthelicencefortheuseofStandard
Mark may be granted to manufacturers or producers
The cloth shall conform to the requirements given in maybeobtainedfromtheBureauofIndianStandards.
Table 1.However,incaseofagreement, thenominalcon-
structionalparametershallbeasagreedtobetweenthebuyer 6PACKING
and”thesellersubjecttothetolerancesspecifiedinTable 1.
Thecloth shallbepacked inbales orcasesinconformity
4.2 The colour fastness and other requirements of the withtheprocedures laiddown inIS 1347orinIS293as
cloth shallbe asgiven in Table 2. required.
Table 1 Constructional Particulars of Cotton Poplin
(Clause 4.1)
sl Variety Approximate Count of Yarn Ends/cm Picks/cm Mass BreakingLoadon Length Width Weave
No. No. Cotton Count (Tex) 5.S)X20cm Strips,
(For Guidance Only) #m, Min
Warp Weft w.arp Weft
N(kgf) N(kgf)
(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (1%) (H) (12)
w
O 1 100s/2(6 tex x 2) 100/s2(6 tex x 2) 60 28 110 532 (54) 306 (31) 36 or 91 or Plain
above above
ii) 2 60s/2 (10 tex x 2) 60s/2 (10 tex x 2) 43 22 13s 710 (72) 355 (36) as agreed as agreed
iii) 3 40s (15 tex) 40s (15 tex) 54 28 125 621 (63) 325 (33)
Tolerance — — +5 +5 +5 — — — 52 —
Percent -2.5
Method of — — IS 1963 IS 1963 1S1964 IS 1969 IS 1969 Is 1954 Is 1954 Vkual
Test
IS 188:2004
Table 2 Other Requirements of Cotton Poplin
(Clause 4.2)
S1No. Characteristic Requirement Method of Test, Ref to
(1) (2) (q) (4)
O Colour fastness (in case of
dyed and printed fabric) to:
a) Light 5 orbetter IS 2454
b) Washing:Test 4 4 or better IS 765
c) Perspiration 3 or better Is971
ii) Scouring loss, percent, MUX 2.0 IS 1383
iii) pH value 6.0 to 10.0 IS 1390
iv) Dimensional change 3.0 IS 2977
on soaking in water,
percent, Max
v) Water solubles, percent, Max 1.0 IS 3456
vi) Ash content, percent, Max 0.5 IS 199
(after removal of water
soluble matter)
vii) Barium activity number 120, Min IS 1689
7SAMPLING ANDCRITERIA FOR CONFORMITY fastness, scouring loss, pH value, shrinkage or elonga-
tion, water solubles, ash content and blend composition
7.1 The scale of sampling and criteria for conformity (incaseofblended fabrics) of the cloth.
as given in IS 3919 shall be followed in respect of the
physical characteristics, namely, ends and picks, mass, 7.3 For ascertaining the conformity in respect of visual
breaking load, length and width of the cloth. defects at least 200 m of cloth from each bale selected
according to 4 of IS 3919 shall be inspected. The lot
7.2 The scaleof sampling and criteria for conformity as shall be considered conforming in respect of visual
given inIS 5463, shall be followed in respect of colour defects iftherequirements given in4.3 are satisfied.
IS 188:2004
ANNEX A
(Clause 2)
LIST OF REFERRED INDIAN STANDARDS
ISNo. Title ISNo. Title
199:1989 Textiles —Estimation of moisture, and width of fabrics (second revision)
total sizeorfinish, ashandfattymatter
in grey and finished cotton textile 1963:1981 Methods for determination of threads
materials (third revision) perdecimetre inwovenfabrics(second
revision)
293:1980 Code for seaworthy packaging of
cotton cloth and yarn (third revision) 1964:2001 Methods for determination of weight
per square metre and weight perlinear
765:1979 Method for determination of colour
metre offabrics (second revision)
fastness of textile materials to
washing :Test 4 (second revision)
1969:1985 Methods for determination of break-
ing load and elongation at break of
971:1983 Method for determination of colour
woven textilefabrics (second revision)
fastness of textile materials to
perspiration (@t revision)
2454:1985 Methods for determination of colour
fastness oftextilematerials toartificial
1347: 1972 Specification for inland packaging of
light (xenon lamp) (/h@ revision)
the cotton cloth and yarn (first
revision)
2977:1989 Method for determination of dimen-
sionalchanges ofwoven fabrics (other
1383:1977 Methods fordetermination ofscouring
than wool) on soaking in water (first
lossingrey and finished cotton textile
revision)
materials (@st revision)
3456:1966 Method for determination of water
1390:1983 Methods for determination of pH
value of aqueou s extracts of textile solubles matter of textile materials
materials (fwst revis i on)
3919:1966 Methods for sampling cotton fabrics
1689 :1973 Method for determination of barium for determination of physical charac-
activity number of cotton textile teristics
materials (first revision)
5463:1969 Methods for sampling of cotton
1954:1990 Methods for determination of length fabrics for chemical tests
Is 188:2004
ANNEX B
(Clause4.3)
CATEGORIZATION OF FLAWS
B-1SERIOUS FLAWS broken or missing and extending beyondl’O cm.
B-1.l Oneormoreendsmissing inthebody ofthemate- B-2.4 Noticeable warp or weft float in the body of the
rial throughout itslength, or more than three ends miss- fabric.
ing at a place and running over 60 cm or prominently
B-2.5 Noticeable oil or other stain inthe fabric.
noticeable double end running throughout the piece.
B-2.6Oily weft inthefabric.
B-1.2 Undressed snarls noticeable over alength exceed-
ing 5percent of the length of the piece. B-2.7 Prominently noticeable slub.
B-1.3 Smashdefinitelyrupturing thetextureofthefabric. B-2.8 Conspicuous broken pattern.
B-1.4 Hole, cutortear. B-2.9 Gout due to foreign matter usually lint or waste
woven into’thefabric.
B-1.5 Reed marks prominently noticeable over alength
B-2.1OProminent selvedge defect,
exceeding 5percent of the length of the piece.
B-2.11 Significant shading or listing in fabrics having a
B-1.6 Defective or damaged selvedge noticeable over a
gradualchangeintoneordepthofshadeofthefabric(ex-
length exceeding 5 percent of the length of the piece.
cludingselvedgeorborderrunningparalleltotheselvedge).
B-2 MAJOR FLAWS
B-2.12 Coloured flecks.
B-2.1 Weftcrackortwoormore missingpicksacrossthe
B-2.13 Blurred ordark patch.
widthofthefabric.
B-2.14 Patchy or steaky or uneven dyeing.
B-2.2 Weftbarduetothedifferenceinrawmaterial,count,
twist, lustre, colour, shade or pick spacing of adjacent B-2.15 Dyebar.
groupsofweftyarns.
B-2.16 Printing defect which marks the general appear-
B-2.3 More than two adjacent ends running parallel or anceofthefabric.