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IS 15824: Textiles - Requirements for marketing textile materials made of silk PDF

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Preview IS 15824: Textiles - Requirements for marketing textile materials made of silk

इंटरनेट मानक Disclosure to Promote the Right To Information Whereas the Parliament of India has set out to provide a practical regime of right to information for citizens to secure access to information under the control of public authorities, in order to promote transparency and accountability in the working of every public authority, and whereas the attached publication of the Bureau of Indian Standards is of particular interest to the public, particularly disadvantaged communities and those engaged in the pursuit of education and knowledge, the attached public safety standard is made available to promote the timely dissemination of this information in an accurate manner to the public. “जान1 का अ+धकार, जी1 का अ+धकार” “प0रा1 को छोड न’ 5 तरफ” Mazdoor Kisan Shakti Sangathan Jawaharlal Nehru “The Right to Information, The Right to Live” “Step Out From the Old to the New” IS 15824 (2008): Textiles - Requirements for marketing textile materials made of silk [TXD 28: Silk and Silk Products] “!ान $ एक न’ भारत का +नम-ण” Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda ““IInnvveenntt aa NNeeww IInnddiiaa UUssiinngg KKnnoowwlleeddggee”” “!ान एक ऐसा खजाना > जो कभी च0राया नहB जा सकता हहहहै””ै” Bhartṛhari—Nītiśatakam “Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen” IS15824:2008 m7#7w’7G5 ml-- ft-i?l-qft?wsmwmi-l-dw?fq . a W&l-l-–q -faRl& F?wb’-r Indian Standard TEXTILES — REQUIREMENTS FOR MARKING TEXTILE MATERIALS MADE OF SILK — SPECIFICATION lCS 59.060. 10;61.020 Q BIS 2008 BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARC NEW DELHI I10002 September 2008 Price Group 2 1111 11.1 - ,.L,.”—.— —. ,,--, ---------- ..—, -— —. — Silk and Silk Products Sectional Committee, TXD 28 FOREWORD This Indian Standard was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after the draft finalized by the Silk and Silk Products Sectional Committee had been approved by the Textile Division Council. Marking and labelling of ‘ALL SILK’, ‘BLENDED SILK’ and ‘PART SiLK’ materials isimportant from consumer point of view as many imitating or artificial textile materials are being sold as silk materials in the market in view of t}lefact that pure silk materials are costly and have better aesthetic and comfort qualities in addition to durability. Formulation of standard on marking and labelling requirements of silk materials, therefore, needs no emphasis. The composition of the Committee responsible for the formulation of this standard is given in Annex A. For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard iscomplied with, the final value, observed or calculated expressing the result of a test or analysis, shall be rounded off in accordance with IS 2: 1960 ‘Rules for rounding off numerical values (revised)’. The number of significant places retained in the rounded off value should be the salne as that of the specified value in this standard. J IS 15824:2008 Indian Standard TEXTILES — REQUIREMENTS FOR MARKING TEXTILE MATERIALS MADE OF’SILK — SPECIFICATION 1 SCOPE colour obtained from a species of domesticated Iepidopteran insect [Attacus 1.1 This standard specities marking and labelling Ricini) belonging to the family Saturniidae. requirements including care labelling of pure, blended Itfeeds on castor leaves. and part silk materials containing not less than 20 percent silk fibres. b) Mugs Silk — Silk of golden yellow colour obtained from partly domesticated moth 1.2 It also lays down the methods for determining Antherea Assamonsis which feeds on the the contents of silk and other fibres in the silk leaves of Som (Machilus Bombycina) and products. Soalu (Litsaea Polyantha). 2 REFERENCES c) Mzdberry Silk— Silk mainly ofyellow, white The following standards contain provisions which or greenish yellow colour obtained from through reference in this text constitute provisions domesticated silkworm Bombyx Mori of this standard. At the time of publications, the belonging to the family Bombycidae which editions indicated were valid. All standards are feed on mulberry leaves. subject to revision and parties to agreements based d) Tasar (Tussah) Silk — Silk of natural on this standard are encouraged to investigate the copperish colour obtained from a species possibility of applying the most recent editions of of wild Iepidopteran insect (Antheraea the standards indicated below. Mylitta) belonging to ihe Assamonsis group. IS No. Title It feeds on the leaves of a variety of forest trees such as Asan (Term inalia Tomentosa), 667:1981 Methods for identification of Arjuna (Term inalia Arjuna), Ber (Zizyphus textile fibres (&t revision) .Jujuba), Sal (Shores Robusta) and 1418:1999 Assaying of gold ingold bulllon, Himalayan Oak (Quercus Serratac), etc. gold alloys and goId jewe!lery/ e) Pure Zari — A yarn having a silk core, artefacts–C upellation (Fire wrapped with silver wire and may be assay) method (second revision) electroplated with gold. The silk core is a 1745:1978 Specification for petroleum two ply 16/18 denier soft twisted yarn dyed hydrocarbon solvent (second ina red or yellow colour. revision) 4 REQUIREMENTS 14452:1997 Textiles — Care labelling code 4.1 Requirements for Pure Silk and Blended Silk using symbols 3 TERMINOLOGY 4.1.1 Textile materials containing silk shall be marked as given below on the basis of content of silk in For the purpose of this standard, the following baselground fabric only: definition shall apply. a) Pure Silk — Atextile material shall be marked 3.1 Silk – A protein substance which is secreted in ‘Pure Silk’ ifthe material comprises of silk the fluid state by silk worm (Caterpillar stage of only subject to manufacturing tolerance up several silk moths) and which on exposure to air to 5 percent of foreign matter including hardens in the form of a filament. It is composed metallic and weighting materials. mainly of fibroin and partly of sericin and other substances. It is available in the market in various b) Blended Silk — The textile material shall be varieties such as Mulberry Silk, ENDI, Muga Silk and marked ‘Blended Silk’ if it contains not less Tasar (Tussah) Silk as defined below: than 50 percent of silk fibres. However, a tolerance of ~3 percent shall be permitted a) ENDI (Silk) — Silk of white or brick red IS 15824:2008 on [he declared silk content in the textile dry the specimen to a constant mass. The mass shall material. bc taken as constant when the difference between the two successive weighing made at intervals of c) P~/rt Silk — The textile material shall be 20 rnin is less than 0.05 percent. marked ‘Part Silk’ if itcontains not less than 20 percent of silk. However, a tolerance 5.1.1.3 Determine the mass of the sample without of +3 percent shall be permitted on the removing it from the oven. In case the drying oven is dec~ared silk content inthe textile material. not provided with the weighing balance, remove the specimen from the oven and transfer itto aweighing N()’r[-s container of known mass provided with a light lid. I All reference to percentage contents meon The transfer of the specimen should be done in as percentages by mass calculated from tbe mass (f less a time as possible. Cool the specimen and the materta]s when in standard condition, namely tbe}r container in a desiccator to room temperature before ()>en dry mass plus the appropriate regain. weighing. Weigh the container and then find the 2 In all cases the more detailed description or the contents of the material shall be given by indicating mass (M,) of the sample to an accuracy of 10mg. the percentages of silk and other fibers in descending order used in the manufacture of textile material. 5.1.1.4 Transfer the remaining sample in a beaker 1Iowever. sLIcb a description should not be misleading. together with at least 100 times its mass of 5 percent solution of sodium or potassium hydroxide and boil 4.2 Requirements for Pure Zari Silk slowly until the silk fibers are completely dissolved. 4.2.1 The requirements already covered in the After a period of 10 min of boiling, filter through a standard apply to basic silk fabrics only. However, Gooch crucible and wash the residue first with warm for pure zari used in silk materials as ornamentation water, then with 3 percent solution of glacial acetic in extra warp and/or extra weft, the percentages of acid and finally with hot water. Dry the residue at pure silver shall not be less than 50 percent by mass lo5~3”c. in the zari materials when determined by the assay 5.1.1.5 Examine carefully the residue and the pores method as specified in IS 1418. In case the silver is of the crucible for non-fibrous matter, for example, coated with gold, the gold content shall not be less burrs, seeds, finishing materials, dyestuff residues, than 0.5 percent ofzari material. as well as for matter incompletely dissolved. If any 4.3 Requirements for Care Labelling such contaminant is present, it shall be dissolved or otherwise removed. For example, un-dissolved silk 4.3.1 The silk textile material shall also comply with protein shall be removed by treatment with fresh the indication of appropriate care Iabelling symbols boiling 5 percent sodium hydroxide or potassium depending upon its declared end use conforming to hydroxide; and bum and seeds shall be lifted out the requirements of [S 14452 on asilk cloth label. with forceps. Rinse and dry the residue to constant 5 DETERMIN..4TI0N (3FSILK CONTENT OF mass at 105 ~ 3“C. Determine the mass of the residue TEXTILE MATERIAL to an accuracy of 10 mg (M2). S.1Textile Materials Containing Non-protein Fibres 5.1.1.6 Determine the percentages of non-silk fibrous matter and other foreign matter including S.1.1 identify the presence of protein fibres other metallic arid weighting material present by the than silk inthe textile material by the preliminary and following formulae: staii]ing tests as specified in IS 667. If protein frbres &f2x](lo are not present then follow the procedure specitled Percentage ofnon-silk fibrous matter ~ in5.1. l.lto5.l.l.7 and other foreign matter present M, 5.1.1.1 Take about 10 to 15 g or the material and s. I.I.7 Similarly, determine the percentages in the extract it in a Soxhlet apparatus with light petroleum remaining specimens and calculate the average. hydrocarbon solvent (see IS 1745) for lh at a 5.1.1.8 From the value obtained in5.1.1.7, calculate minimum rate of 6 cycles per hour. Allow the light the average percentage of silk in the material by ;~ctroleurn hydrocarbon solvent (.~~~ IS 17~j) to subtracting it from 100. t?\aporate and then extract in a Soxhlet apparatus wi~hivater for two hours at aminimum rate of6 cycles 5.2 Textile !Vlaterials Containing Protein Fibres per hour. 5.2. I Follow the procedure specified in 5.1.1.1 5.1.1.2 Take arepresentative sample weighing abou! to 5.1. I.7 except that dissolve the silk in 80 percent $ g from the pretreated sample and place it in a (/n/\’) sulphuric acid solution instead of 5 percent >ui[able container. Place the container in the drying sodium hydroxide solution as specified in 5.1.1.4. ~I\en Inzrirl[ained at a temperature of ]05 ~ 3°C and L IS 15824:2008 6 MARKING individual variety of silk such as Mulbery Silk, ENDI, Mugs Silk and Tassar Silk or their admixtures. 6.1 The silk textile materials shall be marked with However, the varieties of silks covered in their admixtures may also be marked along with their the following information: respective percentages as far as possible. a) Name of the textile material for example 6.2 BIS Certification Marking chiffon, soft silk, crepe, etc; b) Blend composition when ‘Pure Silk’ or The product may also be marked with the Standard ‘Blended Silk’ or ‘Part Silk’; Mark. c) Variety of Silk that is Mulberry Silk, ENDI. 6.2.1 The use of the Standard Mark is governed by Mugs Silk or Tasar (Tussah) Silk; the provisions of the Bureau ofIndian Standards d) Batch number and date of manufacture for Acf, 1986 and the Rules and Regulations made traceability; thereunder. The details of conditions under which the Iicence for use of the Standard Mark may be e) indication of the source of manufacture; granted to manufacturers or producers may be t) Any other information as required under obtained from the Bureau of Indian Standards. law; and 7 SAMPLING AND CRITERIA FOR CONFORMITY .!3) Care Iabelling symbols as per IS 14452 depending upon end use. Itshall be as specified in the relevant product NOTE — The requirements specified in this standard specification or as agreed to between the buyer and apply to silk products containing any particular the seller. 3 ANNEX B (F’ol”eword) COMMITTEE COMPOSITION Silk and Silk Products Sectional Committee, TXD 28 Organizatlofl Representative(s) (.’cntral Silk Technological Research Institute, Bangalore DR ‘]’. H. SOMASNEKAR (Chairman) SHRISUBRATOROY (Al[ernaie) Assclctation of Corporations & Apex Societies of’ Handlooms. Stuu ABDUALREHMAN New Delhi Central Silk Board, Bangalore DEPiITY SECRETARY(INSPECTION) ASSISTANTSECRETARY(INSPECTION)(Alternate) [Jhamondi Textiles (Silk Mills) Limited, Bangalore SURI A. L. MUTHIAH Directorate of Handlooms & Textiles, Government of Tamil Nadu. SHRI THIRIJ M. E. BALRAJ Chennai }Ilmatsingka Seide Limited, Bangalore SHRIMOHANRAO SHRI S, A. VISHVANATH (Alternate) Indian Silk Export Promotion Council, Mumbai SHRI T. V. MARUTHI Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation, Bangalore SHRI RAJ KUMAR Karnataka State Sericulture Development Institute, Bangalore SHRI V. G. HALLIYAL SHRI RAVINDRA BHANDIWAD (Afternate) Khadi & Village Industries Commission, Mumbai REPRESENTATIVE National Handloom Development Corporation Ltd, Lucknow SHRI V. K. GOYAL SHRI S. RAUTELA (Aherrru[e) off~ce of Development Commissioner for Handlooms, Government PRINCIPAL, INDIAN INSTITUTE OF HANDLOOM of India, New Delhi TECHNOLOGY, SALEM Office of Director of Handloom & Textiles, Government of JOINT DIREC’rOR (TEXTILES) Karnataka, Bangalore DEPUTY DIRECTOR (HANDLOCMS) (Alfernate) Office of the Textile Commissioner, Mumbai SHRIS. G.VERMA SHRI S. RAMAKRISHNAN (Alfernate) Shriram Institute for Industrial Research, Delhi Ms NEENA SEHGAL DR R. K. RAINA (Al[ernafe) Silk Conditioning and Testing House, Bangalore REPRESENTA~IVE ‘The Tamil Nadu Handloom Weaver’s Cooperative Society Ltd, SHRI G. GUNASEKARAN Chennaj Stwu ALOK BABELAY (Alternate) Weavers’ Service Centre, Ministry of Textiles, Bangalore DIRECTOR DEPUTY DIRECTOR (Al[ernate) 51S Directorate General SHRI M. S. VERMA, Scientist ‘F’ & Head (Textiles) [Representing Director General (.Ex-o~icio)] Member Secretary SHRI J. K. GUPTA Scientist ‘C’ (Textiles), BIS 4 &l[il~i’-–65xlkm{ ,}!tJIs/2w8-16 092008—YXB<nlks Bureau of Indian Standards BIS isastatutory institution established under the Bureau oj[ndian Standards Act, 1986 to promote harmonious development of the activities of standardization, marking and quality certification of goods and attending to connected matters in the country. Copyright BIS has the copyright of all itspublications. No part of these publications maybe reproduced inany form without the prior permission inwriting of BIS. This does not preclude the free use, incourse of implementing the standard, of necessary details, such as symbols and sizes, type or grade designations. Enquiries relating to copyright be addressed to the Director (Publications), 131S. Review oflndian Standards Amendments are issued to standards as the need arises on the basis of comments. Standards are also reviewed periodically; a standard along with amendments is reat%rmed when such review indicates that no changes are needed; if the review indicates that changes are needed, it is taken up for revision. Users of Indian Standards should ascertain that they are in possession of the latest amendments or edition by referring to the latest issue of ‘BISCatalogue’ and ‘Standards: Monthly Additions’. This Indian Standard has been developed from Doc :No. TXD 28 (085 1). Amendments Issued Since Publication Amendment No. Date of Issue Text Affected — BUREAU OFIND!AN STANDARDS Headquarters: Manak Bhavan, 9 Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, New Delhi 110002 Telegrams: Manaksanstha Telephones: 23230131,23233375,2323 9402 Website: Www.bis.org.in (Common to all offices) Regional Offices: Telephones Central: Manak Bhavan, 9 Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg 23237617 NEW DELHI 110002 { 23233841 Eastern : 1/14,C.I.T. Scheme VIIM,V.I.P.Road, Kankurgachi 23378499,23378561 KOLKATA700054 { 23378626,23379120 Northern : SC() 335-336, Sector 34-A, CHANDIGARH 160022 2603843 ~jo 9285 { Southern : C.I.T. Campus, IVCross Road, CHENNAI 600113 22541216,22541442 { 22542519,22542315 Western : Manakalaya, E9 MlDC, Marol, Andheri (East) 28329295,28327858 MUMBAI 400093 { 28327891,28327892 Branches: AHMEDABAD. BANGALORE. BHOP AL. BHUBANESHWAR. COIMBATORE. FARIDABAD. GHA.ZIABAD. GUWAHATI. HYDERABAD. JAIPUR. KANPUR. LUCKNOW. NAGPUR. PARWANOO. PATNA. PUNE. RAJKOT. THIRUVANATHAPURAM. VISAKHAPATNAM. Printed by the Manager, Govt. of India Press, Faridabad

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