IS 15824: Textiles - Requirements for marketing textile materials made of silk

2008·1.1 MB·English

by  Bureau of Indian Standards

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IS 15824 (2008): Textiles - Requirements for marketing
textile materials made of silk [TXD 28: Silk and Silk
Products]
“!ान $ एक न’ भारत का +नम-ण”
Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda
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“Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen”

IS15824:2008

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Indian Standard
TEXTILES — REQUIREMENTS FOR MARKING TEXTILE
MATERIALS MADE OF SILK — SPECIFICATION
lCS 59.060. 10;61.020
Q BIS 2008
BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS
MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARC
NEW DELHI I10002
September 2008 Price Group 2
1111 11.1 - ,.L,.”—.— —. ,,--, ---------- ..—, -— —. —
Silk and Silk Products Sectional Committee, TXD 28
FOREWORD
This Indian Standard was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after the draft finalized by the Silk and
Silk Products Sectional Committee had been approved by the Textile Division Council.
Marking and labelling of ‘ALL SILK’, ‘BLENDED SILK’ and ‘PART SiLK’ materials isimportant from consumer
point of view as many imitating or artificial textile materials are being sold as silk materials in the market in
view of t}lefact that pure silk materials are costly and have better aesthetic and comfort qualities in addition
to durability. Formulation of standard on marking and labelling requirements of silk materials, therefore,
needs no emphasis.
The composition of the Committee responsible for the formulation of this standard is given in Annex A.
For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard iscomplied with, the final value,
observed or calculated expressing the result of a test or analysis, shall be rounded off in accordance with
IS 2: 1960 ‘Rules for rounding off numerical values (revised)’. The number of significant places retained
in the rounded off value should be the salne as that of the specified value in this standard.
J
IS 15824:2008
Indian Standard
TEXTILES — REQUIREMENTS FOR MARKING TEXTILE
MATERIALS MADE OF’SILK — SPECIFICATION
1 SCOPE colour obtained from a species of
domesticated Iepidopteran insect [Attacus
1.1 This standard specities marking and labelling
Ricini) belonging to the family Saturniidae.
requirements including care labelling of pure, blended
Itfeeds on castor leaves.
and part silk materials containing not less than
20 percent silk fibres. b) Mugs Silk — Silk of golden yellow colour
obtained from partly domesticated moth
1.2 It also lays down the methods for determining
Antherea Assamonsis which feeds on the
the contents of silk and other fibres in the silk
leaves of Som (Machilus Bombycina) and
products.
Soalu (Litsaea Polyantha).
2 REFERENCES
c) Mzdberry Silk— Silk mainly ofyellow, white
The following standards contain provisions which or greenish yellow colour obtained from
through reference in this text constitute provisions domesticated silkworm Bombyx Mori
of this standard. At the time of publications, the belonging to the family Bombycidae which
editions indicated were valid. All standards are feed on mulberry leaves.
subject to revision and parties to agreements based
d) Tasar (Tussah) Silk — Silk of natural
on this standard are encouraged to investigate the
copperish colour obtained from a species
possibility of applying the most recent editions of
of wild Iepidopteran insect (Antheraea
the standards indicated below.
Mylitta) belonging to ihe Assamonsis group.
IS No. Title It feeds on the leaves of a variety of forest
trees such as Asan (Term inalia Tomentosa),
667:1981 Methods for identification of
Arjuna (Term inalia Arjuna), Ber (Zizyphus
textile fibres (&t revision)
.Jujuba), Sal (Shores Robusta) and
1418:1999 Assaying of gold ingold bulllon, Himalayan Oak (Quercus Serratac), etc.
gold alloys and goId jewe!lery/
e) Pure Zari — A yarn having a silk core,
artefacts–C upellation (Fire
wrapped with silver wire and may be
assay) method (second revision)
electroplated with gold. The silk core is a
1745:1978 Specification for petroleum two ply 16/18 denier soft twisted yarn dyed
hydrocarbon solvent (second ina red or yellow colour.
revision)
4 REQUIREMENTS
14452:1997 Textiles — Care labelling code
4.1 Requirements for Pure Silk and Blended Silk
using symbols
3 TERMINOLOGY 4.1.1 Textile materials containing silk shall be marked
as given below on the basis of content of silk in
For the purpose of this standard, the following
baselground fabric only:
definition shall apply.
a) Pure Silk — Atextile material shall be marked
3.1 Silk – A protein substance which is secreted in
‘Pure Silk’ ifthe material comprises of silk
the fluid state by silk worm (Caterpillar stage of
only subject to manufacturing tolerance up
several silk moths) and which on exposure to air
to 5 percent of foreign matter including
hardens in the form of a filament. It is composed
metallic and weighting materials.
mainly of fibroin and partly of sericin and other
substances. It is available in the market in various b) Blended Silk — The textile material shall be
varieties such as Mulberry Silk, ENDI, Muga Silk and marked ‘Blended Silk’ if it contains not less
Tasar (Tussah) Silk as defined below: than 50 percent of silk fibres. However, a
tolerance of ~3 percent shall be permitted
a) ENDI (Silk) — Silk of white or brick red
IS 15824:2008
on [he declared silk content in the textile dry the specimen to a constant mass. The mass shall
material. bc taken as constant when the difference between
the two successive weighing made at intervals of
c) P~/rt Silk — The textile material shall be
20 rnin is less than 0.05 percent.
marked ‘Part Silk’ if itcontains not less than
20 percent of silk. However, a tolerance 5.1.1.3 Determine the mass of the sample without
of +3 percent shall be permitted on the removing it from the oven. In case the drying oven is
dec~ared silk content inthe textile material. not provided with the weighing balance, remove the
specimen from the oven and transfer itto aweighing
N()’r[-s
container of known mass provided with a light lid.
I All reference to percentage contents meon The transfer of the specimen should be done in as
percentages by mass calculated from tbe mass (f less a time as possible. Cool the specimen and the
materta]s when in standard condition, namely tbe}r container in a desiccator to room temperature before
()>en dry mass plus the appropriate regain.
weighing. Weigh the container and then find the
2 In all cases the more detailed description or the
contents of the material shall be given by indicating mass (M,) of the sample to an accuracy of 10mg.
the percentages of silk and other fibers in descending
order used in the manufacture of textile material. 5.1.1.4 Transfer the remaining sample in a beaker
1Iowever. sLIcb a description should not be misleading. together with at least 100 times its mass of 5 percent
solution of sodium or potassium hydroxide and boil
4.2 Requirements for Pure Zari Silk
slowly until the silk fibers are completely dissolved.
4.2.1 The requirements already covered in the After a period of 10 min of boiling, filter through a
standard apply to basic silk fabrics only. However, Gooch crucible and wash the residue first with warm
for pure zari used in silk materials as ornamentation water, then with 3 percent solution of glacial acetic
in extra warp and/or extra weft, the percentages of acid and finally with hot water. Dry the residue at
pure silver shall not be less than 50 percent by mass lo5~3”c.
in the zari materials when determined by the assay
5.1.1.5 Examine carefully the residue and the pores
method as specified in IS 1418. In case the silver is
of the crucible for non-fibrous matter, for example,
coated with gold, the gold content shall not be less
burrs, seeds, finishing materials, dyestuff residues,
than 0.5 percent ofzari material.
as well as for matter incompletely dissolved. If any
4.3 Requirements for Care Labelling such contaminant is present, it shall be dissolved or
otherwise removed. For example, un-dissolved silk
4.3.1 The silk textile material shall also comply with
protein shall be removed by treatment with fresh
the indication of appropriate care Iabelling symbols
boiling 5 percent sodium hydroxide or potassium
depending upon its declared end use conforming to
hydroxide; and bum and seeds shall be lifted out
the requirements of [S 14452 on asilk cloth label.
with forceps. Rinse and dry the residue to constant
5 DETERMIN..4TI0N (3FSILK CONTENT OF mass at 105 ~ 3“C. Determine the mass of the residue
TEXTILE MATERIAL to an accuracy of 10 mg (M2).
S.1Textile Materials Containing Non-protein Fibres 5.1.1.6 Determine the percentages of non-silk
fibrous matter and other foreign matter including
S.1.1 identify the presence of protein fibres other
metallic arid weighting material present by the
than silk inthe textile material by the preliminary and following formulae:
staii]ing tests as specified in IS 667. If protein frbres
&f2x](lo
are not present then follow the procedure specitled Percentage ofnon-silk fibrous matter ~
in5.1. l.lto5.l.l.7 and other foreign matter present M,
5.1.1.1 Take about 10 to 15 g or the material and s. I.I.7 Similarly, determine the percentages in the
extract it in a Soxhlet apparatus with light petroleum remaining specimens and calculate the average.
hydrocarbon solvent (see IS 1745) for lh at a
5.1.1.8 From the value obtained in5.1.1.7, calculate
minimum rate of 6 cycles per hour. Allow the light
the average percentage of silk in the material by
;~ctroleurn hydrocarbon solvent (.~~~ IS 17~j) to
subtracting it from 100.
t?\aporate and then extract in a Soxhlet apparatus
wi~hivater for two hours at aminimum rate of6 cycles 5.2 Textile !Vlaterials Containing Protein Fibres
per hour.
5.2. I Follow the procedure specified in 5.1.1.1
5.1.1.2 Take arepresentative sample weighing abou! to 5.1. I.7 except that dissolve the silk in 80 percent
$ g from the pretreated sample and place it in a (/n/\’) sulphuric acid solution instead of 5 percent
>ui[able container. Place the container in the drying sodium hydroxide solution as specified in 5.1.1.4.

~I\en Inzrirl[ained at a temperature of ]05 ~ 3°C and
L
IS 15824:2008
6 MARKING individual variety of silk such as Mulbery Silk, ENDI,
Mugs Silk and Tassar Silk or their admixtures.
6.1 The silk textile materials shall be marked with However, the varieties of silks covered in their
admixtures may also be marked along with their
the following information:
respective percentages as far as possible.
a) Name of the textile material for example
6.2 BIS Certification Marking
chiffon, soft silk, crepe, etc;
b) Blend composition when ‘Pure Silk’ or The product may also be marked with the Standard
‘Blended Silk’ or ‘Part Silk’; Mark.
c) Variety of Silk that is Mulberry Silk, ENDI. 6.2.1 The use of the Standard Mark is governed by
Mugs Silk or Tasar (Tussah) Silk; the provisions of the Bureau ofIndian Standards
d) Batch number and date of manufacture for Acf, 1986 and the Rules and Regulations made
traceability; thereunder. The details of conditions under which
the Iicence for use of the Standard Mark may be
e) indication of the source of manufacture;
granted to manufacturers or producers may be
t) Any other information as required under obtained from the Bureau of Indian Standards.
law; and
7 SAMPLING AND CRITERIA FOR CONFORMITY
.!3) Care Iabelling symbols as per IS 14452
depending upon end use. Itshall be as specified in the relevant product
NOTE — The requirements specified in this standard specification or as agreed to between the buyer and
apply to silk products containing any particular the seller.

3
ANNEX B
(F’ol”eword)
COMMITTEE COMPOSITION
Silk and Silk Products Sectional Committee, TXD 28
Organizatlofl Representative(s)
(.’cntral Silk Technological Research Institute, Bangalore DR ‘]’. H. SOMASNEKAR (Chairman)
SHRISUBRATOROY (Al[ernaie)
Assclctation of Corporations & Apex Societies of’ Handlooms. Stuu ABDUALREHMAN
New Delhi
Central Silk Board, Bangalore DEPiITY SECRETARY(INSPECTION)
ASSISTANTSECRETARY(INSPECTION)(Alternate)
[Jhamondi Textiles (Silk Mills) Limited, Bangalore SURI A. L. MUTHIAH
Directorate of Handlooms & Textiles, Government of Tamil Nadu. SHRI THIRIJ M. E. BALRAJ
Chennai
}Ilmatsingka Seide Limited, Bangalore SHRIMOHANRAO
SHRI S, A. VISHVANATH (Alternate)
Indian Silk Export Promotion Council, Mumbai SHRI T. V. MARUTHI
Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation, Bangalore SHRI RAJ KUMAR
Karnataka State Sericulture Development Institute, Bangalore SHRI V. G. HALLIYAL
SHRI RAVINDRA BHANDIWAD (Afternate)
Khadi & Village Industries Commission, Mumbai REPRESENTATIVE
National Handloom Development Corporation Ltd, Lucknow SHRI V. K. GOYAL
SHRI S. RAUTELA (Aherrru[e)
off~ce of Development Commissioner for Handlooms, Government PRINCIPAL, INDIAN INSTITUTE OF HANDLOOM
of India, New Delhi TECHNOLOGY, SALEM
Office of Director of Handloom & Textiles, Government of JOINT DIREC’rOR (TEXTILES)
Karnataka, Bangalore DEPUTY DIRECTOR (HANDLOCMS) (Alfernate)
Office of the Textile Commissioner, Mumbai SHRIS. G.VERMA
SHRI S. RAMAKRISHNAN (Alfernate)
Shriram Institute for Industrial Research, Delhi Ms NEENA SEHGAL
DR R. K. RAINA (Al[ernafe)
Silk Conditioning and Testing House, Bangalore REPRESENTA~IVE
‘The Tamil Nadu Handloom Weaver’s Cooperative Society Ltd, SHRI G. GUNASEKARAN
Chennaj Stwu ALOK BABELAY (Alternate)
Weavers’ Service Centre, Ministry of Textiles, Bangalore DIRECTOR
DEPUTY DIRECTOR (Al[ernate)
51S Directorate General SHRI M. S. VERMA, Scientist ‘F’ & Head (Textiles)
[Representing Director General (.Ex-o~icio)]
Member Secretary
SHRI J. K. GUPTA
Scientist ‘C’ (Textiles), BIS

4
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This Indian Standard has been developed from Doc :No. TXD 28 (085 1).
Amendments Issued Since Publication
Amendment No. Date of Issue Text Affected
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