IS 14717: Knitted Fabrics - Description of Defects - Vocabulary

15 Pages·1999·1.4 MB·English

by  Bureau of Indian Standards

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“जान1 का अ+धकार, जी1 का अ+धकार” “प0रा1 को छोड न’ 5 तरफ”
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IS 14717 (1999): Knitted Fabrics - Description of Defects -
Vocabulary [TXD 10: Hosiery]
“!ान $ एक न’ भारत का +नम-ण”
Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda
““IInnvveenntt aa NNeeww IInnddiiaa UUssiinngg KKnnoowwlleeddggee””
“!ान एक ऐसा खजाना > जो कभी च0राया नहB जा सकता हहहहै””ै”
Bhartṛhari—Nītiśatakam
“Knowledge is such a treasure which cannot be stolen”

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Is 14717:1999
ISO 8499:1990
(SupereedlnglS4125: 19S7)

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Mian Standard
KNITTED FABRICS — DESCRIPTION OF DEFECTS —
VOCABULARY
ICS 59.080 .30;01 .040.59

@ 61S 1999 .
BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS
MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG
NEW DELHI 110002

June 1999 Price Group 5
Hosiery Sectional Committee, TX 10
NATIONAL FOREWORD
This Indian Standard which is identical with ISO 8499:1990 ‘Knitted fabrics — Description of defects
— Vocabulary’, issued by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO), was adopted by the
Bureau of Indian Standards on the recommendation of the Hosiery Sectional Committee and approval
of the Textile Division Council.
The text of ISO standard has been approved as suitable for publication as Indian Standard without
deviations. Certain conventions are, however, not identical to those used in Indian Standards. Attention
is particularly drawn to the following:
Wherever the words ‘International Standard’ appear referring to this standard, they should be
read as ‘Indian Standard’.
The French text has been deleted while adopting this International Standard.
In order to align Indian Standard on the subject with corresponding International Standard, at the time
of revision of 1S4125:1987 ‘Glossary of terms pertaining to defects in fabrics’, itwas decided to adopt
ISO 8498:1990 ‘Woven fabrics — Description of defects — Vocabulary’, and ISO 8499:1990 ‘Knitted
fabrics — Description of defects — Vocabulary’ under dual numbering system. IS 14666 covers
description of defects in woven fabrics. Accordingly this standard supersedes IS 4125:1987.

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ts 14717:1999
ISO 8499:1990
Indian Standard
KNITTED FABRICS — DESCRIPTION OF DEFECTS —
VOCABULARY
Section 1: General
1.1
Scope Section 6: General defects
Except where otherwise stated, the descriptions
This International Standard describes defects
apply to defects appearing in both warp-knitted
which commonly appear during the inspection of
fabrics and weft-knitted fabrics.
knitted piece-goods.
The purpose of this International Standard is-to
1.2 General definitions
define knitted-fabric defects, i.e. those
characteristics that have been unintentionally For the purposes of this International Standard,
introduced into the fabric. The presence of one or the following general definitions apply:
other of these characteristics in a fabric does not
1.2.1band: Awidth-way region of the fabric that
automatically imply that the fabric issub-standard.
extends across the full width and isdifferent from
Textile suppliers and purchasers will still have to
the rest ofthe fabric. Itmay or may not run parallel
reach agreement on whether a defect is present.
with the courses and may or may not have clearly
If it is considered that a defect is present they will
defined edges.
then have to agree on the limits of the defect and
on any allowance to be made, bearing in mind the
1.2.2 defect : A fault that would reduce the
intended use of the fabric.
expected performance of the fabric or, if it
appeared in a prominent position in an article
Sections 2to 6ofthis International Standard cover
made from the fabric, would readily be seen and
the following groups of defects:
rejected by a prospective purchaser.
Section 2: Yarn defects in a knitted fabric
1.2.3 line : A narrow variation, often only one
Section 3: Defects in the course direction wale wide, in the length direction.
Section 4: Defects in the length direction 1.2.4steak: Avariation of generally varying width

Section 5: Defects due to , or apparent which may or may not be parallel to the length
after, dyeing, printing or finishing direction.
Is 14717:1999
ISO 8499:1990
Section 2 :Yarn defects in a knitted fabric
2.1 bright yarn :A yarn, in a course or wale, of NOTE —This defect iscaused byalackofcontrolduringtex-
higher Iustre than the adjacent yarns. turingprocesses.
2.6 fine yarn; thin end: A yarn whose thickness
NOTE — This defect iscaused byirregularity inprocessing of
is unacceptably less than that of the adjacent
the yarn, e.g. uneven distribution ofdelustrant, orbymixing
yarns ofdifferent delustrant content, e.g.dull,semi-dull, etc. yarns.
2.2 broken fitaments: In a fabric made from flat NOTE —This defectiscaused byvariation inthelineardensity
or low twist continuous-filament yarns, a fibrous ofthe yarn, which isotherwise ofthe correct nominal linear
or hairy surface appearance that maybe localized density.
or general. 2.7 gout: A lumpy, asymmetrical fault in a spun
yarn of a fabric.
NOTE — This defect is caused by rupture of individual fila-
ments, usually duringwindingorknitting.
NOTE —This defectiscaused bytheaccumulationofundraftad
2.3 course yarn: A yarn of substantially and waste fibre intotheyarn during spinning.
unacceptably greater thickness than that of the 2.8 slub: In a yarn, a thickened place having
adjacent yarns. tapering ends and a diameter several times that
of the adjacent normal yarn.
NOTE — Thisdefectiscaused byvariationinthelineardensity
ofthe yarn, which isotherwise ofthe correct nominal linear
NOTE — This defect isoften caused bythe presence inthe
density.
yarnoffragments ofundrafted rovingorstubbingthathavenot
2.4 cockled yarn: Small slub-like irregularities in been cleared duringwinding.
the yarn that are readily extensible and that cause 2.9 soiled yarn: An individual yarn that is
loop distortion. discolored by dirt, oil or other contaminants.
NOTE — This defect is often caused by the unintentional NOTE — This defect iscaused bythe contamination ofthe
introductionofstretch intosome fibres duringdraftingandthe yarn priorto,oroccasionally during, knitting.
subsequent relaxation ofthese fibres toform loopsorcrimps
intheyarn. 2.10 split yarn: A yarn which appears inthe fabric
as a thin yarn.
2,5 faulty texturing: Portions of a bulked yarn
that differ from the normal yarn in respect of NOTE —Thisdefect isoften caused byabrasion or.excessive
degree of crimp and similar distortion’s of the tension during winding orknitting, which breaks apart ofthe
yarn (e.g.afilament ofacontinuous-filament yarn oraplyofa
filaments.
two-foldyarn) that issubsequently heldback duringknitting.

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Is 14717:1999
ISO 8499:1990
Section 3: Defects in the course direction
3.1 barre; bars: Bands with clearly defined NOTE —This defectiscaused byfabriccomingofftheknitting
edges, running full width across afabric or spirally needles duetoafailure intheyarn supply.
in atubulaT fabric, which differ in appearance from 3.6 start-up mark; stop mark; stopping line:
the adjacent normal fabric. A band of several courses having stitch
characteristics different from those in the normal
NOTE —This defect iscaused byfeeder variation orvariation
fabric.
inyarn characteristics.
3.2 bow; bowing: Excessive curvature of the NOTE — This defect iscaused bya change inyarn tension
resulting from the deceleration and standing time when a
courses in a fabric that may or may not extend
machine stops.
over the full -width.
3.7 thick place: A prominent band in which an
NOTE — This defect isoften caused byincorrect take-down increase in stitch density, compared to the rest of
tensionduringknittingorincorrect feeding duringfinishing.
the fabric, is apparent.
3.3 feeder variation; machine barre; slack
NOTE —This defect isoftencaused byapoorstart-up ofthe
course; tight course: A course which differs in
machine, oruneven let-offortake-up.
appearance from normal courses inafabric knitted
on a multi-feeder machine. 3.8 thin place: A prominent band in which a
decrease in stitch density, compared to the rest
NOTE — This defect iscaused byone feeder notdelivering of the fabric, is apparent.
the~ame lengthofyarn astheotherfeeders.
NOTE —Thisdefect isoftencaused byuneven yarn let-offor
3.4 missing yarn: A yarn absent from a pattern.
fabrictake-up.
NOTE — This defect isthe result ofa machine continuing to 3.9 wrong yarn: A yarn in a weft-knitted fabric
runwithonefeed ofyarn missing.
that differs from normal yarn in respect of
3.5 press-off: A breakdown inthe knitted structure composition, thickness, filament or colour.
over a discrete area.
NOTE —This defectiscaused byalackofcontrolofincoming
material.

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Is 14717:1999
ISO 8499:1990
Section 4: Defects in the length direction
4.1 dragging end: One or several wales in a configuration from the adjacent normal wales.
warp-knitted fabric in which the laps appear
NOTE —This defect iscaused byamisaligned or.brokennee-
shorter than those in the adjacent normal wales.
dlewhichformsdistorted stitches.
NOTE —This defect iscaused byexcessive tension inoneor 4.6 spirality; wale spirality: A distortion in a
morewarp yarns.
weft-knitted fabric in which the wales are clearly
4.2 end out: A warpways steak in awarp-knitted not at right angles to the courses.
fabric in which some of the laps are missing.
NOTE —This defect iscaused bytwist-lively yarn (due toin-
NOTE — This defect iscaused by a warp yarn breaking or sufficientsetting).
runningout.
4.7 straying end: In a warp-knitted fabric, a
4.3 fish eye; pinhole: Small apertures occurring length of yarn that has been knitted incorrectly
occasionally in a wale. and irregularly into the fabric.
NOTE —This defectiscausedbyamalfunctioning needleform- NOTE —This deferXiscaused byabroken andstraying over
ingrandom tuckstitches. adjacent needles and being knitted into adjacent wales at
random.
4.4 misdraw; wrong draft; wrong draw: Warp
yarns that do not conform to the intended 4.8 wrong end: In a warp-knitted fabric, a yarn
threading pattern in a warp-knitted fabric. that differs from normal yarns in respect of
composition, thickness, Iilament or colour.
NOTE —This defect iscaused byyarns beingdrawn intothe
knittingelements inthewrong sequence. NOTE —This defectiscaused byalackofcontrolofincoming
material.
4.5 needle line: A wale that is different in

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Is 14717:1999
ISO 8499:1990
Section 5: Defects due to, or apparent after, dyeing,
printing or finishing
5.1 barriness: Bands with clearly defined edges 5.10 crack marks: Inafabric, permanent creases
that run full-width across a fabric, or spirally in a or lines which run in various directions.
tubular fabric, and that differ in colour, yarn
NOTE — This defect iscaused by irregular creasing during
characteristics or texture from the normal fabric.
wetfinishing.
NOTE —Thisdefect iscaused bydifferential dyeing effects in 5.11 creases: A hard fold in a fabric, i.e. one that
theareas where yarncharacteristics orfabrictexturevaryfrom
cannot be readily removed by those means
thenormal.
normally available to a garment maker, e.g. by
5.2 bleeding; colour bleeding: Loss of colorant
steam pressing.
from a coloured material in contact with a liquor,
leading to an obvious coloration of the liquid, or of NOTE —This defect ismost oftencaused bydistortion ofthe
adjacent areas of the same or other materials. yarns duringwetprocessing.
5.12 crease mark: A mark left in a fabric after a
NOTE — This defect iscaused by poor wet fastness ofthe
crease has been removed during fabric
dyeingorprinting.
processing.
5.3 blinding; dull: Terms used to described a
marked loss of Iustre of fibres during wet NOTE —Thisdefect isthe resultofapermanent distortion of
processing. theyarns ordamage tothefibres during creasing.
5.13 crease streak: A dyed-in mark of a crease,
NOTE —This defect iscaused bytheinclusionwithinthefibre
of optical discontinuities, e.g. voids, or particles of dye or usually along the length direction, of a lighter
pigment, that scatter light,orbyan alteration inthe physical colour within the crease area and often with edges
structure ofthedye. darker than the adjacent normal fabric.
5.4 blot: An area of uniform colour appearing
NOTE —This defect isoften caused bythefabric being pad-
incorrectly in a printed design.
dyedwhilstcreased.
NOTE —This defect isoftencaused bycolourpaste fallingon 5.14 crows’ feet: Wrinkles of varying degrees of
tothefabric,orcontamination fromprintingrollersorascreen.
intensity and size that give the overall effect of
5.5 bronzing: A coppery Iustre on a fabric birds’ footprints.
surface.
NOTE —Thisdefect maybe caused duringwetprocessing or
NOTE —This defect iscaused by e xcessive dyestuff present bycareless foldingoffinished goods.
duringdyeing, orbyprecipitation ofthe dyestuff. 5.15 deep pinning: Conspicuous pin stenter
5.6 bruise: An area of localized compression marks appearing in the body of the fabric and so
within a fabric. reducing the usable width of the fabric.
NOTE—This defectisoftencaused bythesqueezing orcrush- NOTE —This defect isoften caused byincorrect feed ontoa
ingofthefabric. pinstenter.
5.7 clip mark: A rectangular area of fabric 5.16 doctor blade streak; doctor streak: On a
adjacent to the selvedge, which is characterized fabric, a length ways streak of excess colour or
by tiruisin.g, Iustre, surface disturbance, or a excess coating.
difference in colour from the normal fabric.
NOTE — This defect iscaused bya damaged orincorrectly
NOTE—This defect iscaused byamaladjusted stenter-clip. setdoctor.
5.8 colour out: Colours missing from an area of 5.17 dye mark; dye spot; dye stain: In a piece-
design in a printed fabric. dyed fabric, a discrete area of different colour.
NOTE —This defect isoftencaused byablockedscreen ora NOTE — This defect isoften caused by contamination with
faultycoloursupply. concentrated dyestuffordyeing assistants.
5.9 colour smear: Colour smudged out of the
5.18 ending: A difference in colour between the
intended design area.
bulk and one end of a piece of fabric.
NOTE — This defect isoften caused byincorrect viscosity of
NOTE —This defectiscaused bythepremature exhaustion of
the printing paste, amaladjusted machine, orapoorlysetor
thedyebathincontinuous dyeing.
damaged doctorblade.

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