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Iran PDF

387 Pages·2017·19.79 MB·English
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P D F Iran PDF ebook Edition 7th Edition Release Date Sep 2017 Pages 384 Useful Links Want more guides? Head to our shop Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here Need more help? Head to our FAQs Stay in touch Contact us here © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this PDF ebook is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above – ‘Do the right thing with our content’. 4 easy-to-use How to use this book sections Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: 1 4 Sights Sleeping r 5 Beaches Eating 2 6 PLAN YOUR TRIP Activities Drinking C 3 Courses Entertainment Your planning tool kit T 7 Photos & suggestions to help Tours Shopping you create the perfect trip. z Festivals 8 Information & Events & Transport All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by writer preference. ON THE ROAD Your complete guide Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips. These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation Sustainable or green recommendation No payment required % Telephone number f Ferry UNDERSTAND h Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking a pt apartments Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms make sense of what you see. i Internet access d m dorm beds W Wi-fi access q quad rooms s Swimming pool r rooms v Vegetarian selection s single rooms E English-language menu ste suites c Family-friendly tr triple rooms # Pet-friendly tw twin rooms g Bus SURVIVAL GUIDE Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. Vital practical information for a smooth trip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Iran Tehran p34 Northeastern Iran p246 Western Iran p77 Central Iran p146 Southeastern Iran Persian Gulf p230 p213 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Simon Richmond, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Mark Elliott, Anthony Ham, Jenny Walker, Steve Waters P LAN ON THE ROAD YOUR TRIP Welcome to Iran . . . . . . . . 4 TEHRAN . . . . . . . . . . 34 WESTERN IRAN . . . . . 77 Iran Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Bazargan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Maku & Around . . . . . . . . . 80 Iran’s Top 16 . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Khoy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16 Courses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Orumiyeh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 First Time Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Maraqeh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Iran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Tabriz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 61 Kandovan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Month by Month . . . . . . . 22 Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .64 Jolfa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Aras River Valley . . . . . . . . . 95 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Around Tehran . . . . . . . . . 72 Kaleybar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Visas & Planning . . . . . . .27 Alborz Ski Resorts . . . . . . . 72 Ardabil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Regions at a Glance . . . . . 31 Mt Damavand . . . . . . . . . . 74 Khal Khal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Rey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Zanjan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Soltaniyeh . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 TUUL & BRUNO MORANDI / GETTY IMAGES © MOHAMMAD REZA DOMIRI GANJI / 500PX © OLJEITU MAUSOLEUM, SOLTANIYEH P103 JAM ES STRACHAN / GETTY IM AGES © PERSIAN RUG WEAVING MASJED-E NASIR-AL-MOLK, P316 SHIRAZ P198 Contents UNDERSTAND Takab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Bavanat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Iran Rasht . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Firuz Abad . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Around Rasht . . . . . . . . . . 109 Kazerun & Bishapur . . . . . 212 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 Ramsar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 People . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Kelardasht . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 PERSIAN GULF . . . 213 Daily Life . . . . . . . . . . . .295 Qazvin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Kish Island . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Alamut Valley . . . . . . . . . . 118 Bandar-e Lengeh . . . . . . . 219 Iranian Cuisine . . . . . . .302 Sanandaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Bandar Abbas . . . . . . . . . 219 Faith in Iran . . . . . . . . . . 306 Howraman . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Qeshm Island . . . . . . . . . . 222 Architecture . . . . . . . . . 310 Paveh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Hormoz Island . . . . . . . . . 227 Carpets, Arts & Crafts . .315 Kermanshah . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Bisotun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Literature, SOUTHEASTERN Music & Cinema . . . . . .320 Hamadan . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 IRAN . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Bijar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Natural Environments . .326 Meymand . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Marivan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Kerman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Dorud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Around Kerman . . . . . . . . 239 The Dorud–Andimeshk SURVIVAL The Kaluts (Lut Desert) . . 240 Railway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 GUIDE Rayen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 Andimeshk . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Birjand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243 Shush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Qa’en . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Safe Travel . . . . . . . . . . .332 Shushtar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Ahvaz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Directory A–Z . . . . . . . .336 NORTHEASTERN Khorramabad . . . . . . . . . . 144 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 IRAN . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359 CENTRAL IRAN . . . 146 Sari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 Gorgan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 362 Qom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Semnan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371 Kashan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Garmsar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Around Kashan . . . . . . . . . 157 Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 382 Shahrud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Esfahan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Gonbad-e Kavus . . . . . . . 256 Zagros Mountains . . . . . . 176 Bajgiran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Dasht-e Kavir . . . . . . . . . . 178 Mashhad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Yazd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 SPECIAL Around Mashhad . . . . . . . 268 Around Yazd . . . . . . . . . . . 193 FEATURES Kalat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Shiraz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Visas & Persepolis . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Bojnurd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Planning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Esfarayen . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 Naqsh-e Rostam Daily Life . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 & Naqsh-e Rajab . . . . . . . 210 Sabzevar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Faith in Iran . . . . . . . . . . 306 Pasargadae . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Safe Travel . . . . . . . . . . . 332 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 4 Welcome to Iran Welcome to what could be the friendliest country on earth. Iran is the jewel in Islam’s crown, combining glorious architecture with a warm-hearted welcome. In the Footsteps of Empire Modern & Sophisticated Echoes of ancient civilisations resonate This is your chance to get to grips with Iran’s down through the ages in Iran. Some of modern history, too, particularly in Tehran. history’s biggest names - Cyrus and Darius, Enter part of the former US embassy, now Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan – all called the US Den of Espionage; gaze up left their mark here and the cities they at Tehran’s beautiful Azadi Tower, where conquered or over which they ruled are hundreds of thousands of people gathered among the finest in a region rich with such to mark the 1979 revolution and, in 2009, storied ruins. Walking around the awesome to protest against the regime the revolution and beautiful ancient capital at Persepolis, delivered; and visit the haunting Iran Holy experiencing the remote power of Susa Defense Museum to learn all about the Iran (Shush), and taking in the wonderfully Iraq war that so traumatised the country. immense Elamite ziggurat at Choqa Zanbil Tehran is also where you can take Iran’s con- will carry you all the way back to the glory temporary pulse at creative contemporary days of Ancient Persia. art galleries and liberal cafe spaces. The Beauty of Islam Redefining Hospitality Iran is a treasure house for some of the Across Iran, a nation made up of numerous most beautiful Islamic architecture on the ethnic groups and influenced over thou- planet. The sublime, turquoise-tiled domes sands of years by Greek, Arab, Turkic and and minarets of Esfahan’s Naqsh-e Jahan Mongol occupiers, you’ll find the people (Imam) Square gets so many appreciative are endlessly welcoming. Offers to sit down gasps of wonder, and rightly so, but there for tea will be an everyday occurrence, and are utterly magnificent rivals elsewhere, if you spend any time at all with Iranians, in Yazd and Shiraz among others. And it’s you’ll often find yourself invited to share a not just the mosques – the palaces (espe- meal in someone’s home. Say yes whenever cially in Tehran), gardens (everywhere, but you can, and through it experience first- Kashan really shines) and artfully con- hand, Iranian culture, ancient, sophisti- ceived bridges and other public buildings cated and warm. It’s these experiences that all lend grace and beauty to cities across will live longest in the memory. the country 5 RAFI NOURINIA / 500PX © Why I Love Iran By Anthony Ham, Writer What’s not to love? The landscapes here are wonderful, from high mountains to deep deserts where the soulful presence of the Asiatic cheetah still roams. There’s the archi- tecture and the magic of the bazaars. There’s the utterly civilised appeal of taking tea in a teahouse overlooking the river in Esfahan or with nomads out in the Zagros Mountains. Or wandering the mud-brick alleyways of Yazd then venturing to a Zoroastrian fire temple on the cusp of the desert. Yes, I love all of these things. But Iran’s greatest gift is its people. For more about our writers, see p384 Above: Masjed-e Shah mosque, Esfahan (p159) #\ #] 4 Ira#]n #] #] Akhoran #_YEREVAN 4 Mt Ararat Tabriz (5137m)R ARMENIA AZERBWAorIlJdA HNeritage– DoLğVauaknbea#^yBaazziatrg#^an#+KM#\h#\aAokyuZERCB#\#+#\uAlfIaJAA#+#\gNaraAkras RAirvear s VRalilveleyisrted bazaar (p84) 4 TURVKanEYRazi#\ M#]arTaJanobdlfr#\aizN–##^#\orMdut zS(4a#\8bA1a1hlmaanr)R #^ #+#\#\AAssttaarraa C(aDKsaphraiyaznaa- rSy)eea #+ Ardabil Orumiyeh#^ RM(37t 0S7amha)nd Bandar-e Gonbad-e Lake #]Maraqeh Anzali Kavus MKuomr#]sduKoiTluigirsisrnhkEt HuhTra#^bkiooonisl#^wla pvfiriatlaMarlaumlaigsthaehyO#]a,s#+n r#\K bSs(BuheapamuKcodq1lksi2e#]qurya5aredenmv)#\zhei#\#]M#]daMaSnirysai avS#^hnQ#^naTToaandaoale#\hkonkr\##äivh'amdaetbb-aaheDZnj#\H#\aannajSaMdmno#æyraltual#^aadMACZdn#^ylaiaaaiye-vsenSn#\eruh4ajslade#\Qrhna–#Sz#\av#^vinRe#^AhalKsa#]Am(ahl4aurt8tRma#\#^5Vaj-0aARm#^KQl4m–#lluesb#\oK)yaho#_meTrrC#\lEaz#]hrMHadVAlaRauoms4RrsuAhaontM(Nml5#]tBa6tiQ ian7D#]nF\#b1aeasiD#]mro` mKue#^al44)#^zmsaaSkhvvSTIsutaianBr-ohhencraramhdiknheadnhrma#\ 44aGBran-o#\one#^rDr#+ugaASn#\mazhan#]gadhh#\#]sarhnuadhr BAGH#_DAD Ilam#^ HowramaBisKBohtouornurjrearmd#]a]#ba4d #^Arak 4#]NKLaaamskhae4kan LonteeLlTymo,a wwpkl-iheknK tedc-ayose swmt Shoepowapllntene xZ iw mo(p#+irtao1h#\0naMs3t)erhiarannAndnS iVmahllueeysshhCZ#äkha#\#]no#ä#^ZbqDaiarled#\zSRKkfohiauvuurlehsuRrhMnM(t4aoIzrt0]#u eO7nh0stahmitn)uSsrahKNAn#^aoabhjaradrdfN-e#]ata#^n#\–#Ez#\Sshf4aah#\hrAaernzdaes#\tNana'in #\–#AGra#]Ydramazkedahn#\ exquisite old mansions (p151) Ahvaz#^–# D 4 R #\Fahraj#\ IncreCdihboIleRq a3A0 ZQ0a0n-ybeialr-olAdl-Basra#^(SAAhrbavta#]atdanald-nA-rruaBImdb#]a)anmdBaer-hebDao#]hgaonmb#\Yaadsanuenja R#^aNnguer #\AZGabgaarrdomsA#]Mebhoa#äudnetahins(4M0t7 S4imr) Bafgh R ziggurat (p142) KUW#_AIT Khomeini Kazeru#\n#\ PerSshep#^iroalisz#äTLPaaaskshaekrgadae KCUIT WYAIT KIshlaanrdkBoraz#\jan L–#ake BakLhatkeegan Sirjan]# MajesticE Ssaffaahviad#\n HBcaaatpfainirt aAll – BusheKhhro#^rm–#uAj#\#\hramFa#\rrMasahhbaarnlud #\Fasa a must-see (p158) #\ 4Ja4hrom ASRAAUBDIIA P EG R U S L I FA N #\Kangan La#\r 44 Yazd Desert city with romantic Bandar-e traditional hotels (p182) #^#\DDhaamhrmanam ILsalavnan4IdKsliasnhdChBa#\ar4ankda#]r-eQLIsealsfathn#\#–md Lengeh QATAR Shiraz Persepolis The heartland DOHA#_ Ruined but still glorious DUBAI Persian culture (p195) Achaemenid capital (p207) #^ #_ 44 #] e# 00 250mile#\s500km#] #] Tyuyabuguz #\ 44 Alamut Valley UZBEKISTAN Hike among the Castles of the Assassins (p118) Samarkand 44 #^ TAJIKISTAN Serdar Turkmena#^bat DUSHANBE#_ #] TURKMENISTAN es ACshh#÷aknhdainr#\eVhaB#]lloejynu#]rd#_#+#\ATN#÷SaanHtdi#\oGonDuAaarler BPghaAarzTk Mary#^ hrGar#\meh #\ShEsirfavraany#\enQuchan ShrineM oaf sIhmhaamd Reza, GPoaWlrekis lt&dal niPf reNo Aatetriceotanedal MashhadTu#\#^s Sarakhs\##\+#Saraghs Iran’s holiest site (p257) #] #] Sabzevar Neishabur HeTdoarbriayte-he FBaarnimd-aen JTaomrbat-e Tehran #] #\ Modern Iran – galleries, cafes, restaurants (p34) Taybad#\#+ Dasht-eKavir #\Gonabad K#\haf Herat#\ Ferdows#\ #\Qa'en Garmeh Tabas#\ Desert oasis with memorable homestay (p180) Khur #\ #] Birjand AFGHANISTAN Kaluts 4444LSia44444sktean #\Khash Camp among 10-storey R#]ZKaaefrsraPaamn#]ynedhaj#–aMnno#^unta#\insMa#\KhSaahnlauhtsdaDdasht-eL 44444Zab44444LHoala#]kmeun44 sandcastles (p240) Mt Hezar u (4420m) t #] R R#\Rayen Zahedan#] Mt( 4L3a7le4zmar)Jiroft#\ B#\am #\Fahraj M(4t 0T4af2tmaRn)#\K#+hT#\aasTfhtaahnlabRiver aSmleeapzQiyne Bgsh agnmedo aIlosrgil ayvn i(ldpla2g2e2s), PAKISTAN Kahnuj#\ #\#–mdABSHabt#^ornb#–raIdaLmissaatla orronazfkd#\MinabHalilRiver IMr#]aankrsahnaMhrountains ELEVAT5123I00000000O00m0mmmN 250m #\ OMAN Jask Turbat 0 #\ AI UNITED ARAB #\ EMIRATES Gulf of Chabahar A R A B I A N S E A Oman ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 8 Iran’s Top 16

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Lonely Planet Iran is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Hike among the Castles of the Assassins in Alamut Valley, Lose yourself in Esfahan's historic bazaar, or ski in the Alborz Mountains; all with your trusted trav
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Most books are stored in the elastic cloud where traffic is expensive. For this reason, we have a limit on daily download.