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PPiinneett CCoollggaattee UUnniivveerrssiittyy JONES AND BARTLETT PUBLISHERS Sudbury, Massachusetts BOSTON TORONTO LONDON SINGAPORE World Headquarters Jones and Bartlett Publishers Jones and Bartlett Publishers Canada Jones and Bartlett Publishers 40 Tall Pine Drive 6339 Ormindale Way International Sudbury, MA 01776 Mississauga, Ontario L5V 1J2 Barb House, Barb Mews 978-443-5000 Canada London W6 7PA [email protected] United Kingdom www.jbpub.com Jones and Bartlett’s books and products are available through most bookstores and online booksellers. To contact Jones and Bartlett Publishers directly, call 800-832-0034, fax 978-443-8000, or visit our website, www.jbpub.com. Substantial discounts on bulk quantities of Jones and Bartlett’s publications are available to corporations, professional associations, and other qualified organizations. For details and specific discount information, contact the special sales department at Jones and Bartlett via the above contact information or send an email to [email protected]. Copyright © 2009 by Jones and Bartlett Publishers, LLC Production Credits Chief Executive Officer: Clayton Jones Chief Operating Officer: Don W. Jones, Jr. President, Higher Education and Professional Publishing: Robert W. Holland, Jr. V.P., Sales and Marketing: William J. Kane V.P., Design and Production: Anne Spencer V.P., Manufacturing and Inventory Control: Therese Connell Publisher, Higher Education: Cathleen Sether Acquisitions Editor, Science: Molly Steinbach Managing Editor, Science: Dean W. DeChambeau Associate Editor, Science: Megan R. Turner Editorial Assistant, Science: Caroline Perry Production Manager: Louis C. Bruno, Jr. Associate Production Editor: Leah Corrigan Senior Marketing Manager: Andrea DeFronzo Composition: Shepherd, Inc. Cover Design: Anne Spencer Senior Photo Researcher and Photographer: Christine McKeen Assistant Photo Researcher: Jessica Elias Cover Image: © Ali Ender Birer/ShutterStock, Inc. Printing and Binding: Courier Kendallville Cover Printing: Courier Kendallville Photo credits appear on pages 625–626, which constitute a continuation of the copyright page. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Pinet, Paul R. Invitation to oceanography / Paul R. Pinet. — 5th ed. p. cm. ISBN 978-0-7637-5993-3 (alk. paper) 1. Oceanography. I. Title. GC11.2.P55 2009 551.46—dc22 2008030875 6048 Printed in the United States of America 12 11 10 09 08 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 To Marita E. Hyman, a wise, passionate, caring partner who shares her life with me living on a special parcel of land on a large Earth in a vast universe. v Contents in Brief 1 CHAPTER The Growth of Oceanography. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2 CHAPTER The Planet Oceanus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 3 CHAPTER The Origin of Ocean Basins. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 4 CHAPTER Marine Sedimentation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 5 CHAPTER The Properties of Seawater. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 6 CHAPTER Wind and Ocean Circulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 7 CHAPTER Waves in the Ocean. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 8 CHAPTER Tides. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 9 CHAPTER Marine Ecology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 10 CHAPTER Biological Productivity in the Ocean. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 11 CHAPTER The Dynamic Shoreline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382 12 CHAPTER Coastal Habitats. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422 13 CHAPTER Ocean Habitats and Their Biota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 14 CHAPTER The Ocean’s Resources. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 488 15 CHAPTER The Human Presence in the Ocean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510 16 CHAPTER Global Climate Change and the Oceans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548 Appendices. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 584 vi Contents Preface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xiv 1 CHAPTER The Growth of Oceanography. . . . 1 1-1 Oceanography: What Is It? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1-2 Historical Review of Oceanography . . . . . . . . 3 Ocean Exploration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Early Scientific Investigations . . . . . . . . . . 13 Modern Oceanography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 1-3 Current and Future Oceanographic Research. . . 24 Study Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Study Guide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 FEATURES FEATURES Science by Numbers. Powers of 10. . . . . . . . . . . 40 Science by Numbers. Graphs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 The Ocean Sciences: Geology. Probing The Process of Science. The Scientific the Sea Floor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 A Trek to the Crest of the Mid-Atlantic The Ocean Sciences: Physics. Marine Ridge. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Archeology. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Science by Numbers. Conversions. . . . . . . . . . . 24 3 CHAPTER The Origin of Ocean Basins . . . . 59 3-1 Continental Drift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 3-2 Sea-Floor Spreading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 The Geomagnetic Field . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Spreading Ocean Ridges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 3-3 Global Plate Tectonics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Subduction Zones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Plate-Tectonic Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 The Opening and Closing of Ocean Basins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 A Summary of Global Plate Tectonics . . . 80 3-4 Future Discoveries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 2 CHAPTER The Planet Oceanus . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Study Guide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 2-1 The Earth’s Structure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 FEATURES The Earth’s Interior Spheres . . . . . . . . . . . 31 The Ocean Sciences: Geology. The San Andreas The Earth’s Exterior Envelopes . . . . . . . . . 33 Fault . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 The Process of Science. Sea-Floor Spreading . . . 80 2-2 The Physiography of the Ocean Floor . . . . . . 33 The Ocean Sciences: Geology. The Red Sea . . . 83 Bathymetric Provinces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Science by Numbers. Sea-Floor Spreading 2-3 Geologic Differences between Continents and Rates. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Ocean Basins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 4 CHAPTER Marine Sedimentation. . . . . . . . . 92 The Earth’s Topography and Bathymetry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 4-1 Sediment in the Sea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Mass Balance and Isostasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Classification of Marine Sediment . . . . . . 93 2-4 The Physiography of the Western North Atlantic Factors That Control Sedimentation . . . . 94 Ocean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 www.jbpub.com/oceanlink vii 5-6 Gases in Seawater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Oxygen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 Carbon Dioxide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 5-7 The Ocean as a Physical Chemical System . . 167 Reservoirs of Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 The Global Water Cycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 The Ocean as a Biogeochemical System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Study Guide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 FEATURES Science by Numbers. Parts per Thousand . . . . . 142 The Ocean Sciences: Chemistry. Chemical Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 The Ocean Sciences: Chemistry. 4-2 Sedimentation in the Ocean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Desalination. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Shelf Sedimentation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 The Ocean Sciences: Physics. Other Physical Deep-Sea Sedimentation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Properties of Water. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Deep-Sea Stratigraphy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 The Ocean Sciences: Chemistry. The Sea-Surface Microlayer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 4-3 Future Discoveries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Science by Numbers. Order of Magnitude. . . . . 179 Study Guide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 FEATURES CHAPTER 6 Wind and Ocean Circulation. . . . 187 The Ocean Sciences: Geology. Probing the Sea Floor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 6-1 Atmospheric Processes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 The Ocean Sciences: Geology. Dust Air Pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Storms. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Coriolis Deflection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 The Process of Science. Climate General Wind Circulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Variability and Change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 The Ocean Sciences: Geology. Catastrophic 6-2 Surface Ocean Currents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Meltwater Scouring and Deposition. . . . . . . . . 112 The Wind-Driven Currents of the The Ocean Sciences: Geology. The Sea Surface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Drying Up of the Mediterranean Sea . . . . . . . . 126 Types of Surface Flows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Science by Numbers. Sedimentation A Model of Geostrophic Flow . . . . . . . . . . 203 Rates. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Refinement of the Geostrophic-Flow Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 CHAPTER 5 The Properties of Seawater . . . . 134 6-3 Deep-Ocean Circulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Water Masses and Density-Driven 5-1 Basic Chemical Notions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Water Flow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 A General Model of Thermohaline 5-2 Basic Physical Notions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Circulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 5-3 The Water Molecule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 6-4 Water Flow in Semienclosed Seaways . . . . . 218 The Solutes of Seawater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 6-5 Future Discoveries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 5-4 Salinity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Principle of Constant Proportion . . . . . . . 145 Study Guide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Factors that Regulate the Salinity FEATURES of Seawater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 The Ocean Sciences: Physics. Effects of Salinity on the Properties Current-Measuring Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 of Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 The Ocean Sciences: Physics. Hurricanes and Typhoons. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 5-5 Chemical and Physical Structure Science by Numbers. Volume Transport . . . . . . 211 of the Oceans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 The Ocean Sciences: Physics. Underwater Temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Weather and Waterfalls. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Salinity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Density . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 viii CONTENTS 7 FEATURES CHAPTER Waves in the Ocean . . . . . . . . . . . 230 The Ocean Sciences: Physics. Wave-Measuring Techniques. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 7-1 Properties of Ocean Waves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Science by Numbers. Wave Celerity (Speed) . . . 238 Wind Generation of Waves . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 The Ocean Sciences: Physics. Tiny 7-2 Wave Motions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 Waves and Giant Waves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 The Motion of Water Particles Beneath The Ocean Sciences: Physics. The Waves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Megatsunami of December 26, 2004 . . . . . . . . 256 Motion of the Wave Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 8 7-3 The Life History of Ocean Waves . . . . . . . . . 239 CHAPTER Tides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 Growth of Waves in the Fetch Area . . . . . 239 Storm Waves Outside the Generating 8-1 Tidal Characteristics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 8-2 Origin of the Tides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 Waves in Shallow Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243 Equilibrium Model of Tides . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Shoreline under Storm Conditions . . . . . . 245 Dynamic Model of the Tides . . . . . . . . . . . 271 7-4 Standing Waves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 8-3 Tides in Small and Elongated Basins . . . . . . . 278 7-5 Other Types of Progressive Waves . . . . . . . . 253 8-4 Tidal Currents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 Internal Waves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Tsunamis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 8-5 Power from the Tides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 Study Guide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Study Guide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 FEATURES The Ocean Sciences: Physics. Currents through Tidal Inlets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Science by Numbers. Speed of the Tide. . . . . . . 279 The Ocean Sciences: Biology. Tidal Rhythms in Organisms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 The Ocean Sciences: Physics. Internal Tides Shape the Bottom Gradients of the Continental Slope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 Science by Numbers. Depth of the Bay of Fundy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 9 CHAPTER Marine Ecology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 9-1 Ocean Habitats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 9-2 Classification of Organisms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 Kingdom Monera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 Kingdom Protista . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 Kingdom Chromista . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 Kingdom Fungi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 Kingdom Metazoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 9-3 Classification by Lifestyle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301 9-4 Basic Ecology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 Salinity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Hydrostatic Pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 9-5 Selected Adaptive Strategies . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 Life Cycles of Plankton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 Functional Morphology of Fishes (Nekton) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Benthic Communities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 www.jbpub.com/oceanlink ix

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Thoroughly updated to include the most recent and fascinating discoveries in oceanography, the Fifth Edition takes great strides to be the most up-to-date, comprehensive, and student-friendly resource available today. Its content continues to span the four major divisions of ocean science geology, c
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