Table Of Content

International Journal of Cosmetic Science 21, 450 (1999) Author index Ahn, H.-J.,207 Hawkins, S.S., 159 Querleux, B., 107 Alfaro, M. de J., 151 Hiraki, Y., 23 Andre-Frei, V., 299 Hohenberg, H., 399 Rains, G.Y., 3à3 83 Arsié, I., 219 Holzle, E., 399 Regnier, M., J l Augustin, C., 299 Hur, C.-W., 41 Rerek, M.E., 353 Ro, K.-W., 41 Barlow, T., 425 Ibric, S., 119 Rowland, D.A., 159 Benali, H., 107 Ichioka, M., 23 Berry, N., 241 Saito, Y., 189 Bittoun, J., 107 Jacquin, J., 107 Sakr, A., 371 Bordat, P., 299 Jassoy, C., 253 Santos, E.P., 1 Both, W., 253 Jeong, H.-J., 41 Sato, T., 189 Breuer, M., 167 Jolivet, O., 107 Schmidt, R., 51 Brown, A.M.G., Schmucker-Castner, J., 313 Burnod, Y., 107 Kang, S.-H., 207 Schumann, K., 299 Burt, D.M., 159 Keswick, B.H., 383 Seo, S.-Y., 207 Kim, J.-H., 71 Shin, H.-Y., 207 Cartiaux, Y., 59 Kim, J.-W., 41 Silvy, A., 241 Cavazza, A., 265 Kislalioglu, S., 167 Simovic, S., 119 Chavardes, V., 413 Kohno, Y., 83 Smith, W.P., 33 Charmeil, C., 241 Kondo-Yanai, N., 23 Smith, W., 99 Cho, J.-J., 71 Kumano, Y., 83 Sone,. ¥.; 23 Choi, J:-D:,. 71, 275,285 Souza, K.R., 1 Choi, K.-Y., 207 Stajkovié, N., 7 Cogliandro, E., 265 Lee, KK, 71, 275, 285 Stokes, R., 341 Corcuff, P., 241 Lee, M.-H., 41 Stupar, M., 119 Corradini, C., 265 Mariani, E., 199 Swift, J.A., 227 Damour, O., 299 Mendelsohn, R., 353 Tanemura, I., 189 Desai, D., 313 Milié, J., 7 Turkoglu, M., 371 Diembeck, W., 399 Milic-Askrabic, J., 119 DeClermont-Gallerande, H., 413 Milutinovié, R., 7 Ueda, H., 189 Diffey, B., 341 Mohen-Domenech, O., 107 Dorato, S., 199 Montastier, C., 241 Vergnanini, A., 1 Duval, C., 51 Moore, D.J., 353 Vidovic, S., 219 Egawa, M., 8>3 Murahata, R.I., 159 Villa, C., 199 Vuleta, G., 7, 119, 219 Ertel, K.D., 383 Neuhoff, C., 199 Esumi, K., 23 Neumann, P.B., 383 Waldmann-Laue, M., 253, 299 Forster, Th., 253, 299 Nicoletti, I., 265 Wang, S., 167 Freitas, Z.M., 1 Wenck, H., 399 Padilla, F.C., 151 Wepf, R., 399 Garcia, S., 1 Paye, M., 59 Wiechers, J.W., 425 Gaudion, P., 107 Pérez de R., M.N., 151 Wilkinson, J.A., 437 Gazano, G., 107 Pecmezci, E., 371 Will, T., 399 Gers-Barlag, H., 399 Perrett, D.I., 159 Wis-Surel, G.M., 327 Girard, P., 241 Perrier, E., 299 Goujon, C., 241 Pflücker, F., 399 Yokokura, T., 23 Pfeiffer, S., 399 Yoshikawa, S., 2 >3 Hartwig, P.M., 383 Piérard, G.E., 15 Hanamizu, T., 23 Piérard-Franchimont, C., 15 Zastrow, L., 413 0142-5463 © 1999 International Journal of Cosmetic Science International Journal of Cosmetic Science 21, 450 (1999) Author index Ahn, H.-J.,207 Hawkins, S.S., 159 Querleux, B., 107 Alfaro, M. de J., 151 Hiraki, Y., 23 Andre-Frei, V., 299 Hohenberg, H., 399 Rains, G.Y., 3à3 83 Arsié, I., 219 Holzle, E., 399 Regnier, M., J l Augustin, C., 299 Hur, C.-W., 41 Rerek, M.E., 353 Ro, K.-W., 41 Barlow, T., 425 Ibric, S., 119 Rowland, D.A., 159 Benali, H., 107 Ichioka, M., 23 Berry, N., 241 Saito, Y., 189 Bittoun, J., 107 Jacquin, J., 107 Sakr, A., 371 Bordat, P., 299 Jassoy, C., 253 Santos, E.P., 1 Both, W., 253 Jeong, H.-J., 41 Sato, T., 189 Breuer, M., 167 Jolivet, O., 107 Schmidt, R., 51 Brown, A.M.G., Schmucker-Castner, J., 313 Burnod, Y., 107 Kang, S.-H., 207 Schumann, K., 299 Burt, D.M., 159 Keswick, B.H., 383 Seo, S.-Y., 207 Kim, J.-H., 71 Shin, H.-Y., 207 Cartiaux, Y., 59 Kim, J.-W., 41 Silvy, A., 241 Cavazza, A., 265 Kislalioglu, S., 167 Simovic, S., 119 Chavardes, V., 413 Kohno, Y., 83 Smith, W.P., 33 Charmeil, C., 241 Kondo-Yanai, N., 23 Smith, W., 99 Cho, J.-J., 71 Kumano, Y., 83 Sone,. ¥.; 23 Choi, J:-D:,. 71, 275,285 Souza, K.R., 1 Choi, K.-Y., 207 Stajkovié, N., 7 Cogliandro, E., 265 Lee, KK, 71, 275, 285 Stokes, R., 341 Corcuff, P., 241 Lee, M.-H., 41 Stupar, M., 119 Corradini, C., 265 Mariani, E., 199 Swift, J.A., 227 Damour, O., 299 Mendelsohn, R., 353 Tanemura, I., 189 Desai, D., 313 Milié, J., 7 Turkoglu, M., 371 Diembeck, W., 399 Milic-Askrabic, J., 119 DeClermont-Gallerande, H., 413 Milutinovié, R., 7 Ueda, H., 189 Diffey, B., 341 Mohen-Domenech, O., 107 Dorato, S., 199 Montastier, C., 241 Vergnanini, A., 1 Duval, C., 51 Moore, D.J., 353 Vidovic, S., 219 Egawa, M., 8>3 Murahata, R.I., 159 Villa, C., 199 Vuleta, G., 7, 119, 219 Ertel, K.D., 383 Neuhoff, C., 199 Esumi, K., 23 Neumann, P.B., 383 Waldmann-Laue, M., 253, 299 Forster, Th., 253, 299 Nicoletti, I., 265 Wang, S., 167 Freitas, Z.M., 1 Wenck, H., 399 Padilla, F.C., 151 Wepf, R., 399 Garcia, S., 1 Paye, M., 59 Wiechers, J.W., 425 Gaudion, P., 107 Pérez de R., M.N., 151 Wilkinson, J.A., 437 Gazano, G., 107 Pecmezci, E., 371 Will, T., 399 Gers-Barlag, H., 399 Perrett, D.I., 159 Wis-Surel, G.M., 327 Girard, P., 241 Perrier, E., 299 Goujon, C., 241 Pflücker, F., 399 Yokokura, T., 23 Pfeiffer, S., 399 Yoshikawa, S., 2 >3 Hartwig, P.M., 383 Piérard, G.E., 15 Hanamizu, T., 23 Piérard-Franchimont, C., 15 Zastrow, L., 413 0142-5463 © 1999 International Journal of Cosmetic Science International Journal of Cosmetic Science 21, 451 (1999) Subject index 2-ethoxyethanol: cosmetics; derivatization; fatty acid profile; nuez de Barinas; UV HPEC I spectrum; 151 2-hydroxypropyl-B-cyclodextrin; fragrance Ceramides: domains; FTIR; lipids; skin barrier; materials: release profile; stability profile; 189 stratum corneum; 353 a-hydroxy acids; cosmetic products: HPLC Cholecalciferol: gas chromatography-mass determination; 265 spectrometry; panthenol; SIM lode; silylation; tocopherol; 41 Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer: Cigarette smoke: antioxidants; CL-HPLC; carbomer; cross-linked polyacrylic acid; hair oxidation; ultraweak chemiluminescence; 83 bleach; hydrogen peroxide; hydrogen peroxide CL-HPLC: antioxidants; cigarette smoke; gels; hydrogen peroxide stability; rheology oxidation; ultraweak chemiluminescence; 83 modification; thickened hydrogen peroxide; Collagen synthesis: anti-aging; areca catechu; two-part hair color; 313 elastase; inhibition; 285 Alkalinity: colour measurement; colour Colour measurement: alkalinity; colour prediction; oxidation hair colour; permanent; prediction; oxidation hair colour; permanent; pH; 327 pH; 327 Anti-aging:areca catechu; collagen synthesis; Colour prediction: alkalinity; colour elastase; inhibition; 285 measurement; oxidation hair colour; Antimelanogenesis: antioxidative activity; areca permanent; pH; 327 catechu; free radical scavenging; Corneometer: corneosomes; lipids; TEWL; hyaluronidase; tyrosinase; 275 xerosis; 241 Antioxidants: cigarette smoke; CL-HPLC; Corneosomes: corneometer; lipids; TEWL; oxidation; ultraweak chemiluminescence; 83 xerosis; 241 Antioxidative activity: antimelanogenesis; areca Cosmetic formulations: Cariodendron catechu; free radical scavenging; orinocense; fatty acid profile; nuez de Barinas; hyaluronidase; tyrosinase; 275 UV spectrum; 151 Antioxidative activity: elastase; hyaluronidase; Cosmetic product: irritation; mildness; patch inhibition; plant extracts; 71 test; skin; Squamometry; stratum corneum; Areca catechu: anti-aging; collagen synthesis; surfactant; 59 elastase; inhibition; 285 Cosmetic products: a-hydroxy acids; HPLC Areca catechu: antimelanogenesis; antioxidative determination; 265 activity; free radical scavenging; hyaluronidase; Cosmetics: 2-ethoxyethanol; derivatization; tyrosinase; 275 HPLC; 199 Ascorbic acid: lactic acid L(+) form; skin Cross-linked polyacrylic acid: acrylates/C10—30 whitening; 33 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer; carbomer; hair bleach; hydrogen peroxide; hydrogen peroxide Biological efficiency: N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide; gels; hydrogen peroxide stability; rheology pharmokinetic parameters; release; repellant modification; thickened hydrogen peroxide; preparations; 7 two-part hair color; 313 Brain imaging: functional MRI; human skin; somatosensory cortex; tactile stimulation; 107 Derivatization: 2-ethoxyethanol; cosmetics; Breakage: electron microscope; fatigue; hair HPLC; 199 structure; keratin fibre; SEM; shear stress; Domains: ceramides; FTIR; lipids; skin barrier; strength; TEM; 227 stratum corneum; 353 Carbomer: acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate Elastase: anti-aging; areca catechu; collagen crosspolymer; cross-linked polyacrylic acid; synthesis; inhibition; 285 hair bleach; hydrogen peroxide; hydrogen Elastase: antioxidative activity; hyaluronidase; peroxide gels; hydrogen peroxide stability; inhibition; plant extracts; 71 theology modification; thickened hydrogen Electron microscope: Breakage; fatigue; hair peroxide; two-part hair color; 313 structure; keratin fibre; SEM; shear stress; Caricaturing: facial averaging; healthy glow; strength; TEM; 227 159 Emulsion: lipoprotein; oil-in-water; rheology; Cariodendron orinocense: cosmetic formulations; skin compatibility; skin pliability; 253 0142-5463 © 1999 International Journal of Cosmetic | Science 452 Subject index Extracellular matrix synthesis: in vivo study; polyacrylic acid; hair bleach; hydrogen peptide; skin equivalent model; 299 peroxide; hydrogen peroxide stability; rheology modification; thickened hydrogen peroxide; Facial averaging: caricaturing; healthy glow; 159 two-part hair color; 313 Factorial design: 0/w emulsions; physical Hydrogen peroxide stability: acrylates/C10-30 stability; polymeric emulsifier; processing alkyl acrylate crosspolymer; carbomer; cross- variables; viscosity; 119 linked polyacrylic acid; hair bleach; hydrogen Fatigue; Breakage: electron microscope; hair peroxide; hydrogen peroxide gels; rheology structure; keratin fibre; SEM; shear stress; modification; thickened hydrogen peroxide; strength; TEM; 227 two-part hair color; 313 Fatty acid profile: Cariodendron orinocense; Hydrogen peroxide: acrylates/C10-30 alkyl cosmetic formulations; nuez de Barinas; UV acrylate crosspolymer; carbomer; cross-linked spectrum; 151 polyacrylic acid; hair bleach; hydrogen Fragrance materials: 2-hydroxypropyl-B- peroxide gels; hydrogen peroxide stability; cyclodextrin; release profile; stability profile; theology modification; thickened hydrogen 189 peroxide; two-part hair color; 313 Free radical scavenging: antimelanogenesis; antioxidative activity; areca catechu; Inhibition: anti-aging; areca catechu; collagen hyaluronidase; tyrosinase; 275 synthesis; elastase; 285 Freeze substitution method: Scanning Electron Inhibition: antioxidative activity; elastase; Microscope (SEM); sweating in lipstick; wax hyaluronidase; plant extracts; 71 matrix; 207 In vitro and in vivo determinations of SPF: FTIR: ceramides; domains; lipids; skin barrier; octyl methoxycinnamate; solar radiation on stratum corneum; 353 skin; spectrophotometric method:, sun Functional MRI: brain imaging; human skin; somatosensory cortex; tactile stimulation; 107 protection factors (SPF); sunscreen lotions; 1 In vivo study: extracellular matrix synthesis; Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry: peptide; skin equivalent model; 299 cholecalciferol; panthenol; SIM lode; silylation; Irritation: cosmetic product; mildness; patch tocopherol; 41 test; skin; Squamometry; stratum corneum; surfactant; 59 Hair bleach: acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer; carbomer; cross-linked Keratin fibre: Breakage; electron microscope; polyacrylic acid; hydrogen peroxide; hydrogen fatigue; hair structure; SEM; shear stress; peroxide gels; hydrogen peroxide stability; strength; TEM; 227 j rheology modification; thickened hydrogen Keratinocytes: Langerhans cells; melanocytes; peroxide; two-part hair color; 313 reconstructed epidermis; 51 Hair structure: Breakage; electron microscope; fatigue; keratin fibre; SEM; shear stress; Lactic acid L(+) form: ascorbic acid; skin strength; TEM; 227 whitening; 33 Hair: season; sun; telogen effluvium; trichogram; Lactic acid: retinoids; skin aging; trans- 5 epidermal water loss; 99 Healthy glow: caricaturing; facial averaging; 159 Lamellar structure: monglyceride; HPLC determination: a-hydroxy acids; poly(vinylpyrrolidone); vesicle; water content cosmetic products; 265 of stratum corneum; 23 HPLC: 2-ethoxyethanol; cosmetics; Langerhans cells: keratinocytes; melanocytes; derivatization; 199 reconstructed epidermis; 51 Human epidermis: photostability; sunscreens; Lecithin: hydrogel; liposomes; stability; vitamin 341 A; 219 Human skin: brain imaging; functional MRI; Lipids: ceramides; domains; FTIR; skin barrier; somatosensory cortex; tactile stimulation; 107 stratum corneum; 353 Hyaluronidase: antimelanogenesis; antioxidative Lipids: corneometer; corneosomes; TEWL; activity; areca catechu; free radical xerosis; 241 scavenging; tyrosinase; 275 Lipoprotein: emulsion; oil-in-water; rheology; Hyaluronidase: antioxidative activity; elastase; skin compatibility; skin pliability; 253 inhibition; plant extracts; 71 Liposomes: hydrogel; lecithin; stability; vitamin Hydrogel: lecithin; liposomes; stability; vitamin A; 219 A; 219 Hydrogen peroxide gels: acrylates/C10-30 alkyl Melanocytes: keratinocytes; Langerhans cells; acrylate crosspolymer; carbomer; cross-linked reconstructed epidermis; 51 Subject index Mildness: cosmetic product; irritation; patch test; emulsions; physical stability; processing skin; Squamometry; stratum corneum; variables; viscosity; 119 surfactant; 59 Polymeric ingredient: moisturizing efficacy; Moisturizing efficacy: polymeric ingredient; theological properties; 167 rheological properties; 167 Processing variables: factorial design; 0/w Monglyceride: lamellar structure; emulsions; physical stability; polymeric poly(vinylpyrrolidone); vesicle; water content emulsifier; viscosity; 119 of stratum corneum; 23 Reconstructed epidermis: keratinocytes; N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide: Biological efficiency; Langerhans cells; melanocytes; 51 pharmokinetic parameters; release; repellant Release profile: 2-hydroxypropyl-B-cyclodextrin; preparations; 7 fragrance materials; stability profile; 189 Nuez de Barinas: Cariodendron orinocense; Release: Biological efficiency; N,N-diethyl-m- cosmetic formulations; fatty acid profile; UV toluamide; pharmokinetic parameters; repellant spectrum; 151 preparations; 7 Repellant preparations: Biological efficiency; o/w emulsions: factorial design; physical N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide; pharmokinetic stability; polymeric emulsifier; processing parameters; release; 7 variables; viscosity; 119 Retinoids: lactic acid; skin aging; trans- Octyl methoxycinnamate: in vitro and in vivo epidermal water loss; 99 determinations of SPF; solar radiation on skin; Rheological properties: moisturizing efficacy; spectrophotometric method;sun protection polymeric ingredient; 167 factors (SPF); sunscreen lotions; 1 Rheology modification: acrylates/C10-30 alkyl Oil-in-water: emulsion; lipoprotein; rheology; acrylate crosspolymer; carbomer; cross-linked skin compatibility; skin pliability; 253 polyacrylic acid; hair bleach; hydrogen Oxidation: antioxidants; cigarette smoke; CL- peroxide; hydrogen peroxide gels; HPLC; ultraweak chemiluminescence; 83 hydrogen peroxide stability; thickened Oxidation hair colour: alkalinity; colour hydrogen peroxide; two-part hair color; 313 measurement; colour prediction; permanent; Rheology: emulsion; lipoprotein; oil-in-water; pH; 327 skin compatibility; skin pliability; 253 Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM): freeze Panthenol: cholecalciferol; gas chromatography- substitution method; sweating in lipstick; wax mass spectrometry; SIM lode; silylation; matrix; 207 tocopherol; 41 Season:hair; sun; telogen effluvium; trichogram; Patch test: cosmetic product; irritation; mildness; 15 skin; Squamometry; stratum corneum; SEM; Breakage: electron microscope; fatigue; surfactant; 59 hair structure; keratin fibre; shear stress; Peptide: extracellular matrix synthesis; in vivo strength; TEM; 227 study; skin equivalent model; 299 Shear stress: Breakage; electron microscope; Permanent: alkalinity; colour measurement; fatigue; hair structure; keratin fibre; SEM; colour prediction; oxidation hair colour; pH; strength; TEM; 227 327 Silylation: cholecalciferol; gas chromatography- pH: alkalinity; colour measurement; colour mass spectrometry; panthenol; SIM lode; prediction; oxidation hair colour; permanent; tocopherol; 41 327 SIM lode: cholecalciferol; gas chromatography- Pharmokinetic parameters: Biological mass spectrometry; panthenol; silylation; efficiency; N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide; release; tocopherol; 41 repellant preparations; 7 Skin aging: lactic acid; retinoids; trans-epidermal Photostability: human epidermis; sunscreens; water loss; 99 341 Skin barrier: ceramides; domains; FTIR; lipids; Physical stability: factorial design; o/w stratum corneum; 353 emulsions; polymeric emulsifier; processing Skin compatibility: emulsion; lipoprotein; oil-in- variables; viscosity; 119 water; rheology; skin pliability; 253 Plant extracts: antioxidative activity; elastase; Skin equivalent model: extracellular matrix hyaluronidase; inhibition; 71 synthesis; in vivo study; peptide; 299 Poly(vinylpyrrolidone): lamellar structure; Skin pliability: emulsion; lipoprotein; oil-in- monglyceride; vesicle; water content of stratum water; rheology; skin compatibility; 253 corneum; 23 Skin whitening: ascorbic acid; lactic acid L(+) Polymeric emulsifier: factorial design; o/w form; 33 454 Subject index Skin: cosmetic product; irritation; mildness; TEM: Breakage; electron microscope; fatigue; patch test; Squamometry; stratum corneum; hair structure; keratin fibre; SEM; shear stress; surfactant; 59 strength; 227 Solar radiation on skin: in vitro and in vivo TEWL: corneometer; corneosomes; lipids; determinations of SPF; octyl xerosis; 241 methoxycinnamate; spectrophotometric method, Thickened hydrogen peroxide: acrylates/C10-30 sun protection factors (SPF); sunscreen lotions; alkyl acrylate crosspolymer; carbomer; cross- I linked polyacrylic acid; hair bleach; hydrogen Somatosensory cortex: brain imaging; functional peroxide; hydrogen peroxide gels; hydrogen MRI; human skin; tactile stimulation; 107 peroxide stability; rheology modification; two- Spectrophotometric method: in vitro and in vivo part hair color; 313 determinations of SPF; octyl Tocopherol: cholecalciferol; gas chromatography- methoxycinnamate; solar radiation on skin; sun mass spectrometry; panthenol; SIM lode; protection factors (SPF); sunscreen lotions; 1 silylation; 41 Squamometry: cosmetic product; irritation; Trans-epidermal water loss: lactic acid; mildness; patch test; skin; stratum corneum; surfactant; 59 retinoids; skin aging; 99 Stability profile: 2-hydroxypropyl-]-cyclodextrin; Trichogram: hair; season; sun; telogen fragrance materials; release profile; 189 effluvium; 15 Stability: hydrogel; lecithin; liposomes; vitamin Two-part hair color: acrylates/C10-30 alkyl A; 219 acrylate crosspolymer; carbomer; cross-linked Stratum corneum: ceramides; domains; FTIR; polyacrylic acid; hair bleach; hydrogen lipids; skin barrier; 353 peroxide; hydrogen peroxide gels; hydrogen Stratum corneum: cosmetic product; irritation; peroxide stability; rheology modification; mildness; patch test; skin; Squamometry; thickened hydrogen peroxide; 313 surfactant; 59 Tyrosinase: antimelanogenesis; antioxidative Strength: Breakage; electron microscope; fatigue; activity; areca catechu; free radical hair structure; keratin fibre; SEM; shear stress; scavenging; hyaluronidase; 275 TEM; 227 Sun protection factors (SPF): in vitro and in Ultraweak chemiluminescence: antioxidants; vivo determinations of SPF; octyl cigarette smoke; CL-HPLC; oxidation; 83 methoxycinnamate; solar radiation on skin; UV spectrum: Cariodendron orinocense; spectrophotometric method; sunscreen lotions; cosmetic formulations; fatty acid profile; nuez ] de Barinas; 151 Sun: hair; season; telogen effluvium; trichogram; 15 Vesicle: lamellar structure; monglyceride; Sunscreen lotions: in vitro and in vivo poly(vinylpyrrolidone); water content of determinations of SPF; octyl stratum corneum; 23 methoxycinnamate; solar radiation on skin; Viscosity: factorial design; o/w emulsions; spectrophotometric method; sun protection physical stability; polymeric emulsifier; factors (SPF); 1 processing variables; 119 Sunscreens: human epidermis; photostability; Vitamin A: hydrogel; lecithin; liposomes; 341 stability; 219 Surfactant: cosmetic product; irritation; mildness; patch test; skin; Squamometry; Water content of stratum corneum: lamellar stratum corneum; 59 structure; monglyceride; Sweating in lipstick: freeze substitution method; poly(vinylpyrrolidone); vesicle; 23 Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM); wax matrix; 207 Wax matrix: freeze substitution method; Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM); Tactile stimulation: brain imaging; functional sweating in lipstick; 207 MRI; human skin; somatosensory cortex; 107 Telogen effluvium: hair; season; sun; trichogram; Xerosis: corneometer; corneosomes; lipids; 15 TEWL; 241