International Journal of Cosmetic Science 14, 285-290 (1992) Author index Aiache, J.-M., 228 Hadgraft, J., 265 Pelejero, C., 131 Aiache, S., 228 Hamm, D., 277 Petrzilka, M., 121 Ambrosso, M., 19 Heinzel, M., 235 Ponec, M., 245 Herpol-Borremans, M., 113 Bader, S., 65 Hoppe, U., 32 von Rheinbaben, F., 235 Balaguer, F., 131 Ribosa, I., 131 Balls, M., 1, 199 Jones, L., 75 Benita, G., 173 Sanchez-Leal, J., 131, 183 Bonina, F., 65 Klecak, G., 121 Sauermann, G., 32 Brain, K.R., 265 Kligman, A.M., 32 Scrofani, C., 65 Braun-Falco, O., 277 Korting, H.C., 277 Seniuta, R., 173 Shaw, R., 75 Caelles, J., 183 Landau, M., 83 Sigot, M., 39 Chapman, J.M., 153 Lukacs, A., 277 Stanzl, K., 277 Chaveron, H., 39 Collier, S.W., 163 Maclennan, A., 75 Tadros, T. F., 93 Comelles, F., 183 Masse, M.O., 113 Tisi, A., 131 Masson, Ph., 173 Tran, T.T., 163 Discalzi, G., 19 Maupetit, P., 121 Trullas, C., 131 Mavro, J., 19 Tur, E., 83 Ehret, C., 121 de la Maza, A., 131 Merot, F., 173 Visca, M., 65 Forestier, J.P., 47 Michniak, B.B., 153 Furno, F., 19 Montenegro, L., 65 Walters, K.A., 265 Warocquier-Clerout, R., 39 Gagliardi, L., 19 Ouraghi, M., 39 Watkinson, A.C., 265 Garcia, M.T., 131 Wolf, D., 83 Gauthier, P., 228 Parra, J.L., 131, 183 Wolf, R., 83 Subject index Active ingredients solubilization: vitamins; sunscreen drug retention; penetration enhancers; mouse oxidants; humectants; phase diagrams; skin, 153 transparent gels, 183 Hairdressing exposure: lung reactions; vapours; Alternative testing and safety assessment: measurement methods; paraphenylenediamine, Shakespeare; animals in medical experiments, 199 19 Aluminium chlorohydroxide: sweat, 32 HPLC: octyl triazone; sunscreens; cosmetic Amino acid treatment: desensitization; Evernia products; TLC, 113 prunastri; Oakmoss absolute, 121 Human: pigmentation; lightening effect; hydro- Animals in medical experiments: alternative testing quinine; mouse, 173 and safety assessment; Shakespeare, 199 Humectants: phase diagrams; transparent gels; Bilayer formation: rough skin; regulation; pH; active ingredients solubilization; vitamins; enzyme; stratum corneum; lamellar granules; sunscreen oxidants, 183 extra-cellular; glycosidase; sphingomyelinase; Hydroquinine: mouse; human; pigmentation; esterase; protease, 47 lightening effect, 173 Cigarettes: smoking; skin lipids; skin moisture; 83 In vitro skin toxicity tests: cultured keratonocytes; Cocoa shell butter; fibroblasts growth; non- fibroblasts; skin cells, 245 saponifiable, 39 In-use properties: syndet bars; tolerability; Consumer protection: preservatives; quality sodium cocyl isethionate; disodium lauryl; assessment; viruses; cosmetics, 235 sulfosuccinate; wheat starch, 277 Cosmetic products: TLC; HPLC; octyl triazone; Lamellar granules: extra-cellular; glycosidase; sunscreens, 113 sphingomyelinase; esterase; protease; bilayer Cosmetics: consumer protection; preservatives; formation; rough skin; regulation; pH; enzyme; quality assessment; viruses, 235 stratum corneum, 47 Cultured keratinocytes: fibroblasts; skin cells; Lightening effect: hydroquinine; mouse; human; in vitro skin toxicity tests, 245 pigmentation, 173 D values: fungi; preservative efficacy; solid Liposomes: multiple emulsions; microemulsions, 93 cosmetics, 163 Liposomes: surfactants; saturation; solubilization, Desensitization: Evernia prunastri; Oakmoss 131 absolute; amino acid treatment, 121 Lung reactions: vapours; measurement methods; Enzyme: stratum corneum; lamellar granules; extra- paraphenyiendiamine; hairdressing exposure, 19 cellular; glycosidase; sphingomyelinase; Mathematical modelling: percutaneous penetration; esterase; protease; bilayer formation; rough sunscreens; ultra-violet filters, 265 skin; regulation; pH, 47 Measurement methods: paraphenylendiamine; Esterase: protease; bilayer formation; rough skin; hairdressing exposure; lung reactions; vapours, 19 regulation; pH; enzyme; stratum corneum; Microemulsions: liposomes; multiple emulsions, 93 lamellar granules; extra-cellular; glycosidase; Mouse: human; pigmentation; lightening effect; sphingomyelinase, 47 hydroquinine, 173 Ethylcellulose: vegetable oils; oleogels, 228 Mouse skin: guinea pig skin; percutaneous Evernia prunastri: Oakmoss abolsute; amino acid absorption; skin drug retention; penetration treatment; desensitization, 121 enhancers, 153 Extra-cellular: glycosidase; sphingomyelinase; Multiple emulsions: microemulsions; liposomes, 93 esterase; protease; bilayer formation; rough Non-saponifiable: cocoa shell butter; fibroblasts skin; regulation; pH; enzyme; stratum corneum; growth, 39 lamellar granules, 47 Oakmoss absolute: amino acid treatment; Fibroblasts: skin cells; in vitro skin toxicity tests; desensitization; Evernia prunastri, 121 cultured keratinocytes, 245 Octyltriazone: sunscreens; cosmetic products; TLC; Fibroblasts growth: non-saponifiable; cocoa shell HPLC, 113 butter, 39 Oleogels: ethylcellulose; vegetable oils, 228 Fungi: preservative efficacy; solid cosmetics; Paraphenylendiamine: hairdressing exposure; D values, 163 lung reactions; vapours; measurement methods, Glycosidase: sphingomyelinase; esterase; protease; 19 bilayer formation; rough skin; regulatyion; pH; Penetration enhancers: mouse skin; guinea pig skin; enzyme; stratun corneum; lamellar granules; percutaneous absorption; skin drug retention, 153 extra-cellular, 47 Percutaneous absorption: three-phase emulsions; Guinea pig skin, percutaneous absorption; skin perfluoropolymethylisopropylether, 65 Subject index 287 Percutaneous absorption: skin drug retention; Skin lipids: skin moisture; cigarettes; smoking, 83 penetration enhancers; mouse skin; guinea pig Skin moisiure: cigarettes; smoking; skin lipids, 83 skin, 153 Smoking: skin lipids; skin moisture; cigarettes, 83 Percutaneous penetration: sunscreens; ultra-violet Solid cosmetics: D values; fungi; preservative filters; mathematical modelling, 265 efficacy, 163 Perfluoropolymethylisopropylether: percutaneous Solubilization: liposomes; surfactants; saturation, absorption; three-phase emulsions, 65 131 pH: enzyme; stratum corneum; lamellar granules; Sphingomyelinase: esterase; protease; bilayer extra-cellular; glycosidase; sphingomyelinase; formation; rough skin; regulation; pH; enzyme; esterase; protease; bilayer formation; rough stratum corneum; lamellar granules; extra- skin; regulation, 47 cellular; glycosidase, 47 Phase diagrams: transparent gels; active ingredients Stratum corneum: lamellar granules; extra-cellular; solubilization; vitamins; sunscreen oxidants; glycosidase; sphingomyelinase; esterase; humectants, 183 protease; bilayer formation; rough skin; Pigmentation: lightening effect; hydroquinine; regulation; pH; enzyme, 47 mouse; human, 173 Sunscreen oxidants: humectants; phase diagrams; Preservative efficacy: solid cosmetics; D values; transparent gels; active ingredients solubilization; fungi, 163 vitamins, 183 Preservatives: quality assessment; viruses; Sunscreens: cosmetic products; TLC; HPLC; octyl cosmetics; consumer protection, 235 triazone, 113 Protease: bilayer formation; rough skin; regulation; Sunscreens: ultra-violet filters; mathematical pH; enzyme; stratum corneum; lamellar granules; modelling; percutaneous penetration, 265 extra-cellular; glycosidase; sphingomyelinase; Surfactants: saturation; solubilization; liposomes, esterase, 47 131 Quality assessment: viruses; cosmetics; consumer Sweat: aluminium chlorohydroxide, 32 preservatives, 235 Tale: sensory analysis, 75 Regulation: pH; enzyme; stratum corneum; Three-phase emulsions: perfluoropolymethyl- lamellar granules; extra-cellular; glycosidase; isopropylether; percutaneous absorption, 65 sphingomyelinase; esterase; protease; bilayer TLC: HPLC; octyl triazone; sunscreens; cosmetic formation; rough skin, 47 products, 113 Rough skin: regulation; pH; enzyme; stratum Transparent gels: active ingredients solubilization; corneum; lamellar granules; extra-cellular; vitamins; sunscreen oxidants; humectants; phase glycosidase; sphingomyelinase; esterase; diagrams, 183 protease; bilayer formation, 47 Ultra-violet filters: mathematical modelling; Saturation: solubilization; liposomes; surfactants, percutaneous penetration; sunscreens, 265 131 Vapours: measurement methods; paraphenyl- Sensory analysis: talc, 75 endiamine; hairdressing exposure; lung reactions, Shakespeare: animals in medical experiments; 19 alternative testing and safety assessment, 199 Vegetable oils: oleogels; ethylcellulose, 228 Skin cells: in vitro skin toxicity tests; cultured Viruses: cosmetics; consumer protection; keratinocytes; fibroblasts, 245 preservatives; quality assessment, 235 Skin drug retention: penetration enhancers; mouse Vitamins: sunscreen oxidants; humectants; skin; guinea pig skin; percutaneous absorption, phase diagrams; transparent gels; active 153 ingredients solubilization, 183