India (Lonely Planet Country Guide)

1182 Pages·2007·21.38 MB·English

by  Sarina Singh

© Lonely Planet Publications
13
Contents
Highlights 4 Deeg 183
Alwar 183
18
The Authors Sariska Reserve &
National Park 184
22 Shekhawati 185
Destination India
Ajmer 189
Pushkar 192
23
Getting Started
Ranthambore
National Park 197
28
Itineraries SOUTHERN RAJASTHAN 199
Bundi 199
37 Kota 203
Snapshot
Around Kota 214
39 Chittorgarh 214
History
Around Chittorgarh 217
Udaipur 217
56
The Culture
Around Udaipur 228
Mt Abu 229
81
Environment Around Mt Abu 234
WESTERN RAJASTHAN 234
90
Activities Jodhpur 234
Around Jodhpur 242
104
Food & Drink Jaisalmer 243
Around Jaisalmer 251
119 Bikaner 252
Delhi
Around Bikaner 257
History 122
258
Orientation 123 Punjab & Haryana
Information 123
Chandigarh 261
Dangers & Annoyances 125
Around Chandigarh 267
Sights 127
PUNJAB 267
Activities 138
Sirhind 267
Courses 138
Patiala 268
Tours 139
Northern Punjab 269
Sleeping 139
Amritsar 269
Eating 145
India–Pakistan Border at
Drinking 149 Attari/Wagah 275
Entertainment 151 Pathankot 275
Shopping 152 Anandpur Sahib 276
Getting There & Away 154 HARYANA 277
Getting Around 157 Kurukshetra 277
GREATER DELHI 161 South & West of Delhi 277
Tughlaqabad 161
279
Qutb Minar 161 Himachal Pradesh
163
Rajasthan EASTERN HIMACHAL
PRADESH 282
EASTERN RAJASTHAN 165 Shimla 282
Jaipur 165 Around Shimla 291
Around Jaipur 178 Kinnaur Valley 292
Bharatpur 180 CENTRAL HIMACHAL
PRADESH 297
Keoladeo Ghana
National Park 182 Mandi 297
14 CONTENTS
Rewalsar Lake 298 Around Allahabad 423 Getting There & Away 512
Mandi to Kullu 298 Faizabad & Ayodhya 424 Getting Around 513
Great Himalayan Varanasi 425
National Park 299 Sarnath 438 West Bengal 516
Bhuntar 299
Gorakhpur 439
Parvati Valley 299 SOUTH OF KOLKATA 517
Kushinagar 440
Naggar 305 Sunderbans Tiger Reserve 517
Sunauli & the Nepal Border 441
Manali 306 Diamond Harbour 520
Around Manali 315 Uttarakhand Sagar Island 520
WESTERN HIMACHAL 443 Bakkali 520
(Uttaranchal)
PRADESH 318 Digha 521
Dharamsala 318 Dehra Dun 446 NORTH OF KOLKATA 521
McLeod Ganj 319 Mussoorie 450 Up The Hooghly 521
McLeod Ganj to Around Mussoorie 454 Bishnupur 521
Bharmour Trek 328
Haridwar 454 Shantiniketan 522
Around McLeod Ganj 329
Rajaji National Park 459 Nabadwip & Mayapur 522
East of Dharamsala 330
Rishikesh 459 Murshidabad &
Southwest of Dharamsala 331 Berhampore 522
Around Rishikesh 466
Chamba Valley 332 Malda 523
Uttarkashi 467
LAHAUL & SPITI 338 Gaur & Pandua 523
Garwhal Temple Treks 467
Lahaul 339 WEST BENGAL HILLS 523
Joshimath 469
Spiti 341 Siliguri & New Jalpaiguri 523
Around Joshimath 470
Jaldhapara Wildlife
347 Valley of Flowers &
Jammu & Kashmir Sanctuary 527
Hem Kund Trek 470
Mirik 528
Badrinath & Mana Village 471
JAMMU &
Kurseong 529
THE KASHMIR VALLEY 350 Kuari Pass Trek 471
Darjeeling 530
Srinagar 353 Nanda Devi Sanctuary Trek 471
Trekking Around Darjeeling 542
Around Srinagar 360 Corbett Tiger Reserve 472
Kalimpong 543
Gulmarg 360 Nainital 474
Around Kalimpong 548
Pahalgam 361 Ranikhet 478
Amarnath 362 Almora 480 549
Bihar & Jharkhand
Sonamarg 362 Around Almora 481
Sonamarg to Kargil 363 Kausani 482 BIHAR 552
Southern Kashmir 363 Around Kausani 483 Patna 552
LADAKH 365 Bageshwar 483 Sonepur 556
Leh 367 Pithoragarh 483 Vaishali 556
Trekking in Ladakh 379 Pindari Glacier Trek 483 Kesariya 557
Around Leh 380 Milam Glacier Trek 484 Raxaul 557
Chemrey Valley 383 Banbassa 484 Bodhgaya 557
Nubra Valley 383 Dungeshwari Cave Temples 562
485
Rupsu Valley 385 Kolkata (Calcutta) Gaya 562
West of Leh 386 Rajgir 563
History 486
Kargil 388 Around Rajgir 565
Orientation 486
ZANSKAR 389 JHARKHAND 565
Information 487
Padum 390 Ranchi 566
Dangers & Annoyances 492
Around Padum 391 Betla (Palamau)
Sights 492
Trekking in Zanskar 391 National Park 567
Activities 502
Parasnath 567
393 Courses 502
Uttar Pradesh
Kolkata for Children 502 568
Sikkim
Agra 394 Tours 503
Fatehpur Sikri 408 Sleeping 503 EAST SIKKIM 571
Mathura 410 Eating 506 Gangtok 571
Vrindavan 412 Drinking 509 Around Gangtok 577
Lucknow 413 Entertainment 510 Towards Tibet 578
Allahabad 420 Shopping 511 SOUTH SIKKIM 579
CONTENTS 15
Namchi 579 WESTERN ORISSA 653 Northern Bastar 713
Jorethang 580 Taptapani 653 Jagdalpur 713
WEST SIKKIM 580 Baliguda 653 Around Jagdalpur 714
Gangtok to Pelling 580 Rayagada 653
715
Geyzing, Tikjuk & Legship 582 Jeypore 654 Gujarat
Pelling 582 Around Jeypore 655
EASTERN GUJARAT 717
Around Pelling 584 Sambalpur 655
Ahmedabad (Amdavad) 717
The Monastery Loop 585 Around Sambalpur 656
Around Ahmedabad 727
NORTH SIKKIM 588 NORTHEASTERN ORISSA 656
Gandhinagar 729
Gangtok to Singhik 588 Similipal National Park 656
Vadodara (Baroda) 729
Beyond Singhik 589 Jashipur 657
Around Vadodara 731
Baripada 657
591 Bharuch 732
Northeast States Cuttack 657
Surat 732
Balasore 657
ASSAM 594 Around Surat 732
Chandipur 658
Guwahati 595 Daman 733
Bhitarkanika Wildlife
Northwestern Assam Sanctuary 658 SAURASHTRA 735
(Bodoland) 600
Ratnagiri, Udayagiri & Bhavnagar 735
Tezpur 601
Lalitgiri 659 Around Bhavnagar 737
Around Tezpur 602
Palitana 738
Kaziranga National Park 602
Madhya Pradesh & Diu 739
Upper Assam 603 660
Chhattisgarh Veraval 744
South Assam 606
Somnath 745
MEGHALAYA 607 NORTHERN MADHYA
Sasan Gir Wildlife
PRADESH 662
Shillong 607 Sanctuary 746
Gwalior 662
Around Shillong 610 Junagadh 748
Shivpuri 668
Jaintia Hills 611 Gondal 751
Jhansi 669
Garo Hills 612 Porbandar 752
Orchha 670
TRIPURA 613 Dwarka 753
Khajuraho 673
Agartala 613 Jamnagar 754
Around Khajuraho 681
Around Agartala 615 Around Jamnagar 757
Satna 682
North Tripura 616 Rajkot 757
CENTRAL MADHYA
NAGALAND 616 KUTCH (KACHCHH) 759
PRADESH 682
Dimapur 617 Bhuj 760
Bhopal 682
Kohima 617 Around Bhuj 763
Around Bhopal 688
Around Kohima 618 Mandvi 764
Sanchi 689
Northern Nagaland 618 Little Rann Sanctuary 765
Around Sanchi 692
ARUNACHAL PRADESH 619
Pipariya 693 766
Itanagar 619 Mumbai (Bombay)
Pachmarhi 693
Central Arunachal Pradesh 619
WESTERN MADHYA History 767
Western Arunachal Pradesh 621 PRADESH 695
Orientation 770
MIZORAM 622
Ujjain 695
Information 770
Aizawl 623
Indore 698
Sights 773
Rural Mizoram 624
Around Indore 700
Activities 779
MANIPUR 624
Mandu 702
Walking Tour 780
EASTERN MADHYA
625 Courses 780
Orissa PRADESH 705
Mumbai for Children 781
Jabalpur 705
Bhubaneswar 628 Tours 781
Around Jabalpur 708
Around Bhubaneswar 642 Sleeping 782
Pench Tiger Reserve 708
SOUTHEASTERN ORISSA 643 Eating 786
Kanha National Park 709
Puri 643 Drinking 789
Bandhavgarh
Raghurajpur 648 National Park 711 Entertainment 791
Konark 648 CHHATTISGARH 712 Shopping 792
Chilika Lake 650 Raipur 712 Getting There & Away 793
Gopalpur-on-Sea 652 Around Raipur 713 GREATER MUMBAI 797
16 CONTENTS
Elephanta Island 797 Molem & Bhagwan Mahavir Kovalam 969
Wildlife Sanctuary 878
Sanjay Gandhi Around Kovalam 973
National Park 798 Dudhsagar Falls 878
Padmanabhapuram Palace 973
799 879 Varkala 973
Maharashtra Karnataka
Kollam (Quilon) 977
NORTHERN SOUTHERN KARNATAKA 881 Around Kollam 980
MAHARASHTRA 801
Bengaluru (Bangalore) 881 Alappuzha (Alleppey) 980
Nasik 801
Around Bengaluru 894 Around Alleppey 985
Around Nasik 804
Mysore 894 Kottayam 985
Aurangabad 805
Around Mysore 902 Around Kottayam 987
Around Aurangabad 808 Bandipur National Park 903 THE WESTERN GHATS 988
Ellora 809 Nagarhole National Park 904 Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary 988
Ajanta 812 Kodagu (Coorg) Region 905 Munnar 999
Jalgaon 815 Hassan 908 Around Munnar 1001
Lonar Meteorite Crater 815 Belur & Halebid 909 Parambikulam Wildlife
Nagpur 816 Sanctuary 1002
Sravanabelagola 911
Around Nagpur 817 CENTRAL KERALA 1002
KARNATAKA COAST 912
Sevagram 817 Kochi (Cochin) 1002
Mangalore 912
Around Sevagram 818 Around Kochi 1014
Dharmastala 915
SOUTHERN Thrissur (Trichur) 1014
Udupi (Udipi) 915
MAHARASHTRA 818
Around Thrissur 1017
Malpe 915
Konkan Coast 818 NORTHERN KERALA 1017
Amgol 916
Matheran 820 Kozhikode (Calicut) 1017
Murudeshwar 916
Lonavla 822 Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary 1019
Jog Falls 916
Karla & Bhaja Caves 824 Kannur (Cannanore) 1020
Gokarna 916
Pune 825 Bekal & Around 1022
CENTRAL KARNATAKA 919
Around Pune 832 LAKSHADWEEP 1022
Hampi 919
Mahabaleshwar 832 Bangaram Island 1023
Hospet 925
Around Mahabaleshwar 834 Agatti Island 1024
Hubli 926
Kolhapur 835 Kadmat Island 1024
NORTHERN KARNATAKA 926
837 Minicoy Island 1024
Goa Badami 926
Around Badami 929 1025
NORTH GOA 843 Tamil Nadu
Bijapur 930
Panaji (Panjim) 843
Bidar 933 CHENNAI (MADRAS) 1026
Old Goa 849
History 1028
935
Torda 852 Andhra Pradesh
Orientation 1029
Mapusa 852
Information 1029
Hyderabad & Secunderabad 937
Fort Aguada & Candolim 852
Dangers & Annoyances 1033
Nagarjunakonda 949
Calangute & Baga 856
Sights 1033
Warangal 951
Anjuna 861
Activities 1036
Around Warangal 952
Vagator & Chapora 863
Courses 1036
Visakhapatnam 952
Chapora to Arambol 866
Tours 1036
Around Visakhapatnam 954
Arambol (Harmal) 866
Sleeping 1036
Vijayawada 954
Terekhol (Tiracol) Fort 868
Eating 1038
Around Vijayawada 955
SOUTH GOA 868
Drinking 1039
Tirumala & Tirupathi 956
Margao (Madgaon) 868
Entertainment 1040
Around Tirimula & Tirupathi 958
Chandor 870
Shopping 1040
Puttaparthi 958
Loutolim 871
Getting Around 1043
Lepakshi 959
Bogmalo & Arossim 871
NORTHERN TAMIL NADU 1044
Colva & Benaulim 872 960
Kerala Chennai to
Benaulim to Palolem 875
Mamallapuram 1044
Palolem & Around 875 SOUTHERN KERALA 962 Mamallapuram
CENTRAL GOA 877 Thiruvananthapuram (Mahabalipuram) 1044
Ponda & Around 877 (Trivandrum) 962 Around Mamallapuram 1050
Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary 877 Around Trivandrum 968 Vedantangal Bird Sanctuary 1050
© Lonely Planet Publications
CONTENTS 17
Kanchipuram 1051 THE WESTERN GHATS 1088 1124
Directory
Vellore 1054 Kodaikanal (Kodai) 1089
Tiruvannamalai 1055 Around Kodaikanal 1093
1163
Gingee (Senji) 1057 Indira Gandhi (Annamalai) Transport
Wildlife Sanctuary 1093
Puducherry (Pondicherry) 1057
Coimbatore 1093
Auroville 1064
1181
Around Coimbatore 1096 Health
CENTRAL TAMIL NADU 1065
Coonoor 1096
Chidambaram 1065
Kotagiri 1097
Around Chidambaram 1067 1190
Language
Ooty (Udhagamandalam) 1098
Kumbakonam 1067
Mudumalai National Park 1104
Around Kumbakonam 1068
1197
Cauvery Delta 1069 Andaman & Glossary
Thanjavur (Tanjore) 1070 1106
Nicobar Islands
Around Thanjavur 1073
1205
Behind the Scenes
Trichy (Tiruchirappalli) 1073 Port Blair 1112
SOUTHERN TAMIL NADU 1077 Around Port Blair &
South Andaman 1117
Trichy to Rameswaram 1077 1213
Index
Havelock Island 1118
Rameswaram 1078
Neil Island 1120
Madurai 1080
Middle & North Andaman 1121 1234
Kanyakumari (Cape World Time Zones
Comorin) 1085 Little Andaman 1123
1236
Map Legend
Regional Map Contents
Jammu &
Kashmir
(p348–9)
Himachal
Pradesh
(pp280–1)
Punjab & Uttarakhand
Haryana (Uttaranchal)
(p259) (p444)
Delhi
(pp120–1) Sikkim
(p569)
Rajasthan Uttar Pradesh Northeast
(p164) (p396–7) States
Bihar & (p592)
Jharkand
(p550)
Gujarat Madhya Pradesh & West Bengal
(p716) Chhattisgarh (p518)
(p662) Kolkata
(Calcutta)
Orissa (pp488–9)
Mumbai Maharashtra (p626)
(Bombay) (p800)
(pp768–9)
Andhra Pradesh
(p936)
Goa
(p839)
Karnataka
(p880)
Tamil Nadu Andaman &
Kerala (p1027) Nicobar Islands
(p961) (p1108)
© Lonely Planet Publications
22
Destination India
With its mind-bending diversity – from snowcapped mountains to sun-washed beaches,
crusty old bazaars to chichi designer boutiques, tranquil temples to feisty festivals, ramshackle
rural villages to techno-savvy urban hubs – it’s hardly surprising that India has been dubbed
the planet’s most multidimensional country.
The subcontinent is home to more than a billion people, and its eclectic melange of
ethnic groups translates into an intoxicating cultural cocktail for the traveller. For those on
a spiritual quest, India has oodles of sacrosanct sites and stirring philosophies, while history
buffs will discover gems from the past almost everywhere – from grand vestiges of the British
Raj peering over frenetic city streets, to battle-scarred forts rising from forlorn country fields.
Meanwhile, lovers of the great outdoors can paddle in the shimmering waters of one of many
palm-fringed beaches, scout for big jungle cats on an adrenaline-pumping wildlife safari, or
simply breathe in the scent of wildflowers on a rejuvenating forest walk. And then there’s the
food! From squidgy south Indian idlis (rice dumplings) to zesty north Indian curries, travellers
are treated to a positively seductive smorgasbord of subcontinental specialities.
Demystifying India is a perpetual work-in-progress and for many travellers that’s precisely
what makes her so deeply addictive. Ultimately, it’s all about surrendering yourself to the
unknown: this is the India that nothing can quite prepare you for because its very essence –
its elusive soul – lies in its mystery. Love it or loathe it – and most visitors seesaw between
the two – India will jostle your entire being and no matter where you go or what you do,
it’s a place you’ll never forget.
GREG ELMS
23
Getting Started
Nothing can fully prepare you for India, but perhaps the one thing that best
encapsulates this extraordinary country is its ability to inspire, frustrate,
thrill and confound all at once.
India is one of the planet’s most multidimensional countries, presenting a
wildly diverse spectrum of travel encounters. Some of these can be challeng-
ing, particularly for the first-time visitor: the poverty is confronting, Indian
bureaucracy can be exasperating and the crush of humanity sometimes turns
the simplest task into an energy-zapping battle. Even the most experienced
travellers find their sanity frayed at some point, yet this is all part of what
makes India a unique travel destination. If you haven’t visited this part of the
globe before, set aside the first few days to simply acclimatise to the subcon-
tinent’s bamboozling symphony of sights, sounds, tastes and smells.
Get excited and knowledgeable about your trip beforehand by reading
up on India, especially its cultural framework. Doing so will augment your
appreciation of the subcontinent’s sights and traditions and also better equip
you to hold more informed conversations with locals. Allow a few weeks of
pretrip preparation to sort out immunisations and visas.
In terms of planning what to do once you arrive, the country’s remarkable
diversity can actually make it a veritable quagmire when nutting out itinerar-
ies. The key is to try not to squeeze in too much, as travelling often involves
considerable distances and stamina. It’s wise to factor in some flexibility, as
things don’t always run like clockwork in India – more than a few travellers
have had their holidays marred by not being able to get their preferred train
seats, or by being delayed by rescheduled transport services, for example. Flex-
ibility will also allow spontaneity, whether it’s simply spending an afternoon
discussing samsara with a pujari (priest) whom you initially approached for
directions after getting lost in a bazaar, or ditching travel plans with friends to
join a short-staffed rural volunteer group you heard about while queuing for
bus tickets in Delhi. Regardless, your Indian sojourn is going to be a whole lot
more enjoyable if you give yourself some time off purely to chill.

WHEN TO GO
Climate plays a key factor in deciding when to visit India. You should keep
in mind that climatic conditions in the far north are distinctly different to
those of the extreme south.
Generally speaking, India’s climate is defined by three seasons – the hot,
the wet (monsoon) and the cool, each of which can vary in duration from
north to south. The most pleasant time to visit most of the country is dur-
ing the cooler period of November to around mid-February, although there
are marked regional variations (see the Fast Facts boxed texts at the start of
regional chapters for the best times to visit specific regions).
THE INDIA EXPERIENCE
There’s a whole lot more to India than merely sightseeing:
(cid:132) Activities (see p 90 )
(cid:132) Courses (see p 1129 )
(cid:132) Festivals (see p 1136 )
(cid:132) Shopping (see p 1144 )
(cid:132) Volunteering (see p1155 )
24 GETTING STARTED •• Costs & Money lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED •• Costs & Money 25
Apart from the weather, the timing of certain festivals or special events
may also influence when you wish to visit India (see p1136 ). DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…

(cid:132) Getting a visa (p 1154 ) and travel insurance ( p1139 )
The Hot
See p1129 for more The heat starts to build up in India from around February and by April it (cid:132) Seeking advice about vaccinations (p 1181 ); some must be administered over a period of
climate information. really warms up. It can get unbearably hot in May and June, with many parts weeks
of the country experiencing temperatures of 40°C and above. Late in May the (cid:132) Nonrevealing clothes (women and men) – covering up will win you more respect and is
first signs of the monsoon are visible in some areas – high humidity, electrical essential when visiting sacred sites
storms, short rainstorms and dust storms that turn day into night. The hot (cid:132) A well-concealed money belt (p 1133 )
season is the time to abandon the plains and head for the cooler hills, and
this is when hill stations are at their best (and busiest). (cid:132) Sunscreen lotion and sunglasses
(cid:132) A small torch (flashlight) for poorly lit streets and power cuts
The Wet
(cid:132) Good-quality earplugs to block out night din and for long bus/train journeys
When the monsoon finally arrives, it doesn’t just suddenly appear. After
some advance warning the rain comes in steadily, generally starting around (cid:132) A little alarm clock – budget and midrange hotels often lack clocks and can be notorious for
missing wake-up calls
1 June in the extreme south and sweeping north to cover the whole country
by early July. The monsoon doesn’t really cool things down; at first hot, dry (cid:132) Flip-flops (thongs) for shared or grotty bathrooms
and dusty weather is simply replaced by hot, humid and muddy conditions. (cid:132) A shower cap and universal sink plug (uncommon except at top-end hotels)
It doesn’t rain solidly all day, but it rains virtually every day; the water tends
(cid:132) Tampons – sanitary pads are widely available but tampons are usually restricted to big (or
to come down in buckets for a while, followed by periods of sun, creating a
touristy) cities
fatiguing steam bath–like environment. The main monsoon comes from the
southwest, but the southeast coast (and southern Kerala) is largely affected (cid:132) Mosquito repellent (a mosquito net can also come in handy)
by the short and surprisingly heavy northeast monsoon, which brings rain (cid:132) Expecting the unexpected – India has an uncanny knack for throwing up surprises
from around October to early December.
The Cool classes, eating simple meals and doing limited sightseeing. If you wish to
Around October the monsoon ends for most of the country, and this is stay in midrange hotels, dine at nicer restaurants, do a reasonable amount
when India sees most tourists – however, by this time it’s too cold to visit of sightseeing and largely travel by autorickshaw and taxi, you’re generally
Ladakh (May to October is the optimum period; see p 366 ). During October looking at anywhere between Rs 900 and 1700 per day. Of course, you may
and November it’s generally not too hot and not too cool (although October be able to subsist on less in India’s smaller, less touristy towns.
can still be quite humid in some regions). In the thick of winter (around Accommodation prices may be influenced by factors such as location (see
mid-December to mid-January), Delhi and other northern cities can become p1124 ). Tariffs can shoot up during festivals or other special events, with
astonishingly cold, especially at night. It certainly becomes bone-chillingly some hotels charging at least double the normal rate during these times. It
cold in the far north. In the far south, where it never gets truly cool, the would be misleading of us to pinpoint an exact countrywide average accom-
temperatures become comfortably warm during this period. modation cost (due to broad regional variations), but most hotels around
the country fall somewhere between the following ranges: in the budget
COSTS & MONEY category, single rooms roughly range from Rs 100 to 400, and doubles from HOW MUCH?
When it comes to finances, India pleases all pockets. Accommodation ranges Rs 200 to 600. For more comfort opt for midrange hotels, where you should Incense (15 sticks):
from lacklustre backpacker lodgings to sumptuous top-end hotels, with expect to pay anywhere between Rs 300 and 1300 for a single and between from Rs 10
some delightful midrange possibilities that won’t bust the bank. A delicious Rs 450 and 1800 for a double. Budget and midrange hotel prices are usually
Toothpaste (100g): Rs 27
array of eateries at all prices means you can fill your belly without spending higher in big cities (especially Mumbai) and tourist hot spots. At the upper
a fortune, and it’s possible to zip around economically as well thanks to the end of the spectrum there’s a bevy of opulent five-star properties (including Bellybutton bindi: Rs 15
country’s comprehensive public transport network. some stunning palace-hotels), where you can easily spend at least US$150 Mars Bar: Rs 25
As costs vary nationwide, the best way of ascertaining how much money per night. Hindi Pop CD:
you’ll require for your trip is to peruse the relevant regional chapters of this Eating out in India is sizzling-hot value, with meals for as little as Rs 40 at from Rs 145
book. Be prepared to pay more in the larger cities such as Mumbai (Bombay) decent budget eateries, and usually little more than double that for a satiat-
and Delhi, as well as at popular tourist destinations. ing midrange restaurant meal. Again, prices vary regionally (see the Eating
In relation to sightseeing, foreigners are often charged more than Indian sections of individual chapters).
citizens for entry into tourist sites (admission prices for foreigners are Regarding long-distance travel, there’s a range of classes on trains and
sometimes given in US dollars, payable in the rupee equivalent), and there several bus types, resulting in considerable flexibility vis-à-vis comfort and
may also be additional charges for still/video cameras. price – regional chapters supply specific costs and also see p 1169 . Domestic
So how does this all translate to a daily budget? Roughly speaking, if you air travel has become a lot more price competitive thanks to recent deregu-
stick to a tight budget you can manage on around Rs 450 to 600 per day lation (see p1170 ). Within towns there’s inexpensive public transport (see
(but budget for at least double that in some big cities and tourist hubs). This p1173 ), or perhaps you’d like to hire a car with driver, which is surprisingly
means staying in basic lodgings, travelling on the cheaper buses and train good value if there are several of you to split the cost (see p 1172 ).
26 GETTING STARTED •• Top 10 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com GETTING STARTED •• Travel Literature 27
pal
10 Bhutan TRAVEL LITERATURE
TOP Arabian INDIA Bangladesh Wbacilklipaamck Seur tDclaivffee,’ sw Ahore a cYcooum Epxapneireise hnicse bde? sits f rtiheen dh’isla griirolfursie tnadle t oo fI nfidrisat- itnim ane
Sea attempt to seduce her. It adroitly portrays the backpacker scene in India.
M
Inhaling the Mahatma by Christopher Kremmer is the author’s fascinating
GREAT READS
and multifarious encounter with India, from his stint as a foreign correspond-
With a phenomenal mix of novels offering brilliant insights into India, there’s no dearth of riveting ent in the early 1990s to his marriage to an Indian woman and life beyond.
bedtime-reading fodder – the below titles are some great places to start. For additional reading Bedazzled by wizardry since childhood, Tahir Shah travelled through India
recommendations see p 74 and the boxed text, p771 . to learn the art of illusion under the guidance of a mysterious master magi-
cian. Sorcerer’s Apprentice is the wild and wonderful story of his journey.
1 The Inheritance of Loss by Kiran Desai 6 A Fine Balance by Rohinton Mistry The Age of Kali by celebrated travel writer William Dalrymple is a per-
2 Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts 7 The Romantics by Pankaj Mishra ceptive compilation of insights gleaned from a decade of travelling the
subcontinent.
3 The God of Small Things by 8 White Mughals by William Dalrymple
Anita Desai’s Journey to Ithaca is the engaging tale of two young Euro-
Arundhati Roy 9 Hullabaloo in the Guava Orchard by Kiran peans, Matteo and Sophie, who go to India seeking spiritual enlightenment.
4 A Suitable Boy by Vikram Seth Desai While Matteo’s ashram experience is spiritually affirming, Sophie’s isn’t
5 Midnight’s Children by Salman Rushdie 10 The Alchemy of Desire by Tarun J Tejpal quite so rosy.
Indian Summer by Will Randall is the memoir of a somewhat disenchanted
English teacher who unexpectedly finds himself in Pune, teaching at a school
for street kids – then suddenly fighting to save it from being shut down.
MUST-SEE MOVIES
Gita Mehta’s Karma Cola amusingly and cynically describes the cultural
What better way to get all fired up about your trip than by holding your very own Indian movie collision as India looks to the West for technology and modern methods, and
marathon! The following top films are either in English or available with English (and sometimes the West descends upon India in search of wisdom and enlightenment.
other vernacular) subtitles. Mainstream video stores may not stock many (if any) Bollywood titles, Chasing the Monsoon by Alexander Frater is an Englishman’s story of his
but you shouldn’t have any problem finding them at your local Indian video shop; if that fails, monsoon-chasing journey from Kovalam to Meghalaya. It offers a captivating
Indian grocery stores usually have at least one shelf bulging with rental DVDs. window into the monsoon’s significance and its impact on people.
To find out more about Indian cinema read p 73 .
INTERNET RESOURCES
1 Earth, Water and Fire, a trilogy directed by 6 Lagaan, directed by Ashutosh Gowariker Best Indian Sites (www.bestindiansites.com) Offers links to popular websites including search
Deepa Mehta 7 The Legend of Bhagat Singh, directed by engines, marriage matchmakers and information technology sites.
2 Gandhi, directed by Richard Attenborough Rajkumar Santoshi Incredible India (www.incredibleindia.org) The official government tourism site, with national
travel-related information.
3 Mr & Mrs Iyer, directed by Aparna Sen 8 Hyderabad Blues (Part I & II), directed by
Khoj (www.khoj.com) A nifty portal with links to the arts, science, business, culture, sport and
4 Monsoon Wedding, directed by Mira Nair; Nagesh Kukunoor
much more.
see also her acclaimed earlier films Kama 9 Pyaar Ke Side Effects, directed by Saket Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Apart from plenty of useful links there’s the popular
Sutra and Salaam Bombay! Chaudhary
Thorn Tree forum, where you can swap information with fellow travellers to India.
5 Black, directed by Sanjay Leela Bhansali 10 Meenaxi: Tale of 3 Cities, directed by MF Hussain Maps of India (www.mapsofindia.com) A handy assortment of regional maps, including thematic
offerings such as those pinpointing India’s wildlife sanctuaries and Buddhist pilgrimage sites.
W orld Newspapers (www.world-newspapers.com/india.html) Provides links to India’s major
English-language national and regional publications, enabling you to stay tuned to what’s
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
happening where.
India has a tremendous variety of major and minor festivals – for comprehensive details see p 1136
and the ‘Festivals In…’ boxed texts appearing near the start of regional chapters.
1 Festival of Dance (Feb/Mar); Madhya 6 Dussehra (Durga Puja) (Sep/Oct);
Pradesh (p 663) nationwide (p 1137) but especially in
2 Rath Yatra (Jun/Jul); Orissa ( p646 ) and Mysore (p 882) , Kullu (p 303) and Kolkata
Kolkata (Calcutta; p487 ) ( p487 )
3 Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Race (Aug); 7 Diwali (Oct/Nov); nationwide ( p1137 )
Kerala ( p984 ) 8 Pushkar Camel Fair (Oct/Nov); Rajasthan
4 Ganesh Chaturthi (Aug/Sep); nationwide ( p195 )
( p1137 ) but especially in Mumbai ( p770 ) 9 Sonepur Mela (Nov/Dec); Bihar (p 556 )
and Pune ( p803 ) 10 Festival of Carnatic Music & Dance
5 Ladakh Festival (Sep); Ladakh ( p373 ) (Dec/Jan); Tamil Nadu ( p1028 )