EYEWITNESS TRAVEL INDIA 2pho2tog0rap0hs DAAIRRESI £RIPPADL MANDI5 AF1FRSogCotHaHArrTaTArtialtt wiDoCahanYAuyiMnUlNaiA IkhtRai’sma RTmaoadubm Yam-uzanubaagd ,,h- de1tail5ed m0aps i1llust0rati0ons EYEWITNESS TRAVEL INDIA EYEWITNESS TRAVEL INDIA Managing Editor Aruna Ghose Managing Art Editor Bindia Thapar Ashokan Capital, Sarnath Project Editor Nandini Mehta Editors Madhulita Mohapatra, Vandana Mohindra, Ranjana Saklani, Alissa Sheth Contents Designers Benu Joshi, Mugdha Sethi, Priyanka Thakur Cartographers Uma Bhattacharya, Kishorchand Naorem Photo Editor Radhika Singh Introducing India Picture Researcher Kiran K Mohan Dtp Coordinator Shailesh Sharma Dtp Designer Jessica Subramanian Discovering Main Contributors India 8 Roshen Dalal, Partho Datta, Divya Gandhi, Premola Ghose, Ashok Koshy, Abha Narain Lambah, Annabel Lopez, Sumita Mehta, George Michell, Rudrangshu Mukherji, Meenu Nageshwaran, Rushad R Nanavatty, Ira Pande, Usha Raman, Putting India Janet Rizvi, Ranee Sahaney, Deepak Sanan, Darsana Selvakumar, Sankarshan Thakur, Shikha Trivedi, Lakshmi Vishwanathan on the Map 18 Consultant George Michell A Portrait of Photographers Clare Arni, Fredrik & Laurence Arvidsson, M Balan, Dinesh Khanna, Amit Pasricha, India 22 Bharath Ramamrutham, Toby Sinclair, BPS Walia Illustrators India Through Avinash Ramsurrun, Dipankar Bhattacharya, Danny Cherian, R Kamalahasan, Surat Kumar the Year 38 Mantoo, Arun P, Suman Saha, Ajay Sethi, Ashok Sukumaran, Gautam Trivedi, Mark Warner Printed by Vivar Printing Sdn Bhd, Malaysia The History of India 44 First published in Great Britain in 200X by Dorling Kindersley Limited Delhi & The North 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL 14 15 16 17 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Reprinted with revisions 2005, 2008, 2011, 2014 Introducing Delhi & Copyright 2002, 2014 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London The North 62 A Penguin Random House Company All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in Delhi 72 a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. Haryana & Punjab 102 A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. ISBN 978 1 40932 937 4 Himachal Pradesh 112 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with British usage; ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level. Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir 138 Central India Introducing The information in this Central India 160 DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible Uttar Pradesh at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are & Uttarakhand 170 liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of Bihar & Jharkhand 216 travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, Madhya Pradesh & 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected]. Chhattisgarh 230 Front cover main image: The Taj Mahal at sunset, Agra Pretty interiors of the historic City Palace in Udaipur, Rajasthan Eastern India Introducing Eastern India 260 Kolkata (Calcutta) 270 West Bengal & Sikkim 288 Odisha 308 Assam & The Northeast 326 The Gateway of India with the red-domed Taj Mahal Hotel behind it South India Survival Guide Western India Introducing Practical Information 734 Introducing South India 550 Western India 344 Travel Information 748 Chennai (Madras) 560 Rajasthan 354 General Index 760 Tamil Nadu 580 Gujarat 412 Acknowledgments 788 Andaman Islands 620 Further Reading 792 Kerala 628 Glossary 794 Andhra Pradesh 662 Phrase Book 796 Travellers’ Needs Where to Stay 690 Where to Eat & Drink 704 Shops & Markets 720 An array of tangy savouries, very popular among Rajasthanis Entertainment 724 Southwestern Outdoor Activities India & Specialist Holidays 726 Introducing Kandariya Mahadev Temple (see pp240–41) at Southwestern India 436 Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh Mumbai (Bombay) 446 Maharashtra 468 Goa 488 Karnataka 514 INTRODUCING INDIA Discovering India 8–17 Putting India on the Map 18–21 A Portrait of India 22–37 India Through the Year 38–43 The History of India 44–61 (cid:3) 8 INTRODUCING INDIA DISCOVERING INDIA The following tours have been designed to the majestic Himalayan region of the far north. take in as many of this vast country’s highlights The first of the four subsequent week-long as possible, separated into regions to keep itineraries covers Mumbai & Maharashtra in long-distance travel within reason. First comes central India, followed by three exotic southern a 3-day tour of India’s grand capital Delhi, routes, featuring the highlights of Goa & which can be combined with the Golden Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu. Pick, Triangle to make a ten-day tour. Next, comes a combine and follow your favourite tours, more extensive two-week itinerary, covering or simply dip in and out and be inspired. 10 Days in the Golden Triangle Key • Rub shoulders with • Gaze at the sculpted 10 Days in the Golden devout Muslims at the domes crowning the Triangle Jama Masjid in Old Delhi. stunning buildings of the 2 Weeks in the Himalaya • Stroll along the wide, former Mughal capital of 1 Week in Mumbai & RAJASTHAN avenues of New Delhi, Fatehpur Sikri. Maharashtra admiring its grand • Admire the pink façade 1 Week in Goa & Karnataka colonial architecture. of Jaipur’s Hawa Mahal. 1 Week in Kerala • Savour superb views of • Sit comfortably atop an 1 Week in Tamil Nadu the Taj Mahal across the elephant as it ambles Yamuna River from the up the cobbled pathway ramparts of Agra Fort. to Amber Fort. GUJARAT Tapti 0 kilometres 300 0 miles 300 Arabian Sea Mumbai Pune 1 Week in Goa & Karnataka • Walk around and admire the Portuguese colonial architec- GOA Panaji ture and the churches of A decorated elephant at the Hawa Mahal in Goa’s capital, Panaji. Palolem Jaipur, Rajasthan • Relax on the beach and sip a drink beneath the palms at 1 Week in Mumbai & Maharashtra Palolem or even more laid back Agonda. • Take a boat ride from • Gain an insight into the • Meander through the the imposing Gateway life of Mahatma Gandhi sprawling ruins of Hampi. of India to Elephanta at the Aga Khan Palace • Stand agog at the pure Island and explore its in Pune, where he opulence and magnificence Hindu cave temples. was imprisoned. of Mysore’s Amba Vilas Palace. • Be amazed at the wealth • Admire the details of • Stock up on tropical fruit at of sculptures at the the extraordinary murals Mysore’s colourful market for stately Prince of Wales at the Buddhist rock-cut the walk downhill from the Museum. caves of Ajanta. temple atop Chamundi Hill. Painting of the Battle of Pollilur in Tipu Sultan’s summer palace