In that Precarious Exilic Realm: Edward Said’s Andalusian Journeys Tabea Linhard. Washington University, St. Louis, Missouri Edward Said travelled to Andalusia on several occasions during his life, and wrote about his most personal impressions in the article “Andalusia’s Journey”. Said’s vision is highly conditioned by the multicultural past of the region, where Muslims, Christians and Jews lived together for centuries. The idealisation of this co-existence, as well as the most famous myths of Andalusian culture (Carmen, King Boabdil, etc.) are very present in the traces that Said discovered in the places he visited, and that make up a nostalgic past. Moreover, the author recognises the conceal- ment and denial of numerous Jewish and Muslim elements in contemporary Spanish culture, with the aim of creating a stereotypical image in order to please the tourist. This article is an exploration of Edward Said’s Spanish coasts in makeshift boats, clinging to vision of Andalusia as both an origin and a life and the hope of a better future. destination, as a picturesque site to be toured, However, while Said speaks from the glossy and as a location where the interaction between pages of a high-end travel magazine, the text’s violence and tolerance demands new reflec- contradictions (which also are Andalusia’s tions, particularly vis-à-vis recent migratory contradictions) reveal that the author does not flows between Southern Spain and Northern divert from the tasks of a public intellectual Africa.1 Said’s “Andalusia’s Journey,” a brief – tasks which Said defined as the intellectual’s essay published in Travel + Leisure in 2002 responsibilities in the 1993 Reith Lectures, does not specifically refer to these flows, as it is later published as Representations of the In- geared to a very different sort of traveler than tellectual. While Said clearly states that these the immigrants who continue arriving along lectures are not to be taken as a form of au- 1. This article has previously appeared in the collection Edward Said and Jacques Derrida: Reconstellating Humanism and the Global Hybrid (Mina Karavanta and Nina Morgan [eds.], Newcastle, Cambridge Scholars Publishing, 2008) and is reproduced with the editors’ permission. I first found out about Said’s “Andalusia’s Journey” from María Rosa Menocal during a lecture at Washington University in the fall of 2006. 170 In that Precarious Exilic Realm: Edward Said’s Andalusian Journeys Tabea Linhard tobiography (1994: xii), the critical voice that often violent conflicts in different parts of the comes across in “Andalusia’s Journey” belongs Mediterranean world, may make it easy to reify to the role that the author reassesses in the the Medieval co-existence of Arabs, Jews and final chapter of Humanism and Democratic Christians into a nostalgia for an impossibly Criticism: “The intellectual’s role is to present harmonious future. I will later return to the alternative narratives and other perspectives on issue of co-existence or convivencia in order to history than those provided by combatants on argue that Said’s vision of Andalusia relates to behalf of official memory and national history connections between a multicultural – yet not and mission” (2004: 141). necessarily harmonious – past and an uncertain present. Third, immigration from Northern Af- A number of sites, restored and rica is radically changing contemporary Spain re-imagined city quarters, monuments and its relationship to its postcolonial legacies. and museums have turned both Arab and Said does not discuss migration in Andalusia Jewish Spain into an accessible in this particular text, yet its causes and conse- and popular travel destination quences should remain in the background of the analysis that follows. In light of Said’s stated role, his “Andalu- sia’s Journey” is here read as far more than a short piece of travel journalism. While the Specters of Carmen text initially displays a nostalgic vision of Andalusia, turning the region into an anach- Every Andalusian journey, including Said’s, ronistic model that would ideally aid in solving should begin with a story. Possibly, the same contemporary conflicts in the Mediterranean statement could be made about any form of world, Said’s writing ultimately reverses such travel literature: good travel writing may be a one-dimensional understanding of the re- more about good stories than about the places gion and its history. Instead, in this succinct themselves. Drawing a boundary between text, Said calls for an ongoing interrogation fact and fiction in certain travel narratives can of the meanings that cultural heritage attains indeed become a futile exercise: “Like certain within the Spanish –and also in a global and forms of investigative journalism –another postcolonial – context. A close reading of the member of the genre’s extended family – travel text is timely and relevant for three additional writing enjoys an intermediary status between reasons. First, a number of sites, restored and subjective inquiry and objective documenta- re-imagined city quarters, monuments and tion” (Holland and Huggan, 1998: 11). museums have turned both Arab and Jewish Bearing this in mind, I would like to briefly Spain into an accessible and popular travel consider a literary heroine who embodies most destination. The offerings are plentiful for Andalusian fantasies: Prosper Merimée’s Car- those who yearn to wander the streets of the men. The gypsy seductress first appeared in rediscovered Jewish quarters in cities like Gi- print in 1845: the author published the first rona and Toledo, or to admire the intricacies of three chapters of the novella in the Revue de the Alhambra in Granada and the Mosque in Deux Mondes, a journal that “had originally Cordoba – two monuments that Said eloquently been founded as a bi-weekly travel journal describes in his text. Second, the fact that the depicting, for the civilized ‘world’ of France, three cultures that once coexisted in the Iberian exotic landscapes and adventures in what today peninsula remain involved in wide-ranging and we call the Third World” (Robinson, 1, qtd. in Quaderns de la Mediterrània 16, 2011: 169-182 171 Clark, 2000: 198). Since the novella appeared of Andalusia as an exotic and sensuous locale. in a journal specialized in travel narratives, Ultimately, Carmen’s ghost can be seen as an many of his readers probably took the torrid invitation to learn to “live with the ghosts” of love story between Carmen and Don José to al-Andalus in a Derridean fashion. “And this be another fact-based travel narrative. The being-with specters would also be,” writes Der- publication was, after all, devoted to this type rida, “not only but also a politics of memory, of prose, and the author had already published of inheritance, and of generations” (1994: xix). narratives of his travels to Andalusia in simi- The inheritance at stake here is found in the lar magazines (Revue de Paris, L’Artiste). To remainders of Arabic culture in Spain, which, make matters even more illusory, “Mérimée in spite of the mechanisms of erasure that the did everything to encourage this reading of his Spanish empire put in place already in the 15th tale as a vérité vécue” (Clark, 2000: 189). The century, stubbornly refuse to disappear. plot of the novella is said to be based on an anecdote – a jealous lover kills the unfaithful Said’s Andalusian journeys are haunted Andalusian gypsy woman he adores – narrated by the fantasies of what Andalusia was to Merimée by the Countess of Montijo, with once imagined to be, including both the whom he became friends in one of his trips to vision of the co-existence of Arabs, Jews Spain. Finally, Merimée himself was fond of and Christians as an idealized form of literary hoaxes and games that questioned (or multiculturalism even mocked) authority and identity: his first collection of plays, Le Théâtre de Clara Gazul The Spanish empire saw its birth with (1825) was supposed to be written by a Spanish the Reconquest of the Kingdom of Granada actress, and the book’s cover features a portrait by the Catholic Kings in 1492, the Expulsion of a cross-dressed Prosper Merimée “wearing a Edict that initiated the Sephardic diaspora, mantilla, a necklace and a frilly dress” (Raitt, and the conquest and colonization of the New 37-44, qtd. in Clark, 2000: 189). An interroga- World. In spite of its vastness, the empire was tion of identity and authority also is at stake short-lived and was followed by an enduring once Edward Said travels as a Palestinian Arab political and economic decadence, as well to Andalusia on four different occasions, begin- as a rhetoric of loss and despair. In “Span- ning in 1966. Even though he does not mention ish Nationalism and the Ghost of Empire” the figure of the fiery, Flamenco-dancing se- Ángel Loureiro explains what this decadence ductress, Carmen’s specter still becomes a useful implies: “A nation beset with problems of trope for the understanding of Andalusia this self-understanding and self-esteem, Spain has analysis aims to convey. been haunted for two centuries by the specter This specter should not be taken for a repre- of its former colonies. Consequently, in the sentation of a subaltern, female subject – a real- late nineteenth century – and in both Spain life Andalusian gypsy that Merimée may have and Latin America – an obsessive discourse encountered on a quest for exotic and sensuous about Hispanismo begins to develop around adventures in Southern Spain. Instead, Said’s the subject of the conquest and colonization of Andalusian journeys are haunted by the fanta- American and ensuing heritage left by Spain sies of what Andalusia was once imagined to be, in that continent. […] The Spanish discourse including both the vision of the co-existence of on America is linked to a historical analysis Arabs, Jews and Christians as an idealized form conceived in terms of loss, decadence, ruin of multiculturalism, and the orientalized vision and even degeneration” (2003: 65). 172 In that Precarious Exilic Realm: Edward Said’s Andalusian Journeys Tabea Linhard Yet the colonial specters that remain from return Spain to the apex it had reached in the conquest of the Americas and its conse- the fifteenth century with Catholic Kings” quences on both sides of the Atlantic may just (2003: 66). Orientalism moves in two oppos- be a different incarnation of other specters ing directions in the Spanish context: while that also resulted from the Spanish imperial imperial discourse in Spain undoubtedly formation. This understanding of the Spanish was constructed on an Orientalized vision of empire draws from Américo Castro’s historical Latin America and North Africa, Spain itself thought. Said mentions Castro in “Andalusia’s becomes a sensuous, exotic and conquerable Journey,” and I will return to the historian’s “Orient” in texts like Merimée’s Carmen, as work later in the essay. Before the loss of the Ignacio Tofiño-Quesada argues in “Spanish colonies across the Atlantic was even conceiv- Orientalism: Uses of the Past in Spain’s Colo- able, Islamic and Jewish Spain were pushed nization of Africa” (2003: 142-143). towards the borders of the Iberian peninsula, and its remainders – individuals, monuments, Traveling to and in Andalusia also means literatures, traditions, sounds, words, flavors – negotiating the different meanings that were disguised, silenced, acculturated, hidden, the Andalusian cultural heritage attains in tortured, or re-written. diverse contexts – not only in fancy travel Any journey to Andalusia, as a matter of fact magazines any literal or virtual excursion into past and present Spain (and the nation’s diverse forms Thus, traveling to and in Andalusia also of literature, art, architecture, languages, or means negotiating the different meanings cuisine) will reveal that these remainders have that the Andalusian cultural heritage attains by no means disappeared. Said’s text mainly in diverse contexts – not only in fancy travel centers on the traces of Arab culture in An- magazines. Speaking from the pages of a pub- dalusia, referring to a “composite Andalusian lication like Travel + Leisure may be an unfa- identity anchored in Arab culture [which] can miliar location for a thinker like Edward Said; be discerned in its striking buildings, its tiles it may seem that here the author’s own notion and wooden ceilings, its ornate pottery and of “traveling theory” is taking him literally and neatly constructed houses” (2002: 2). But the figuratively to new discursive positions, which term “composite” is key here – while the loss ultimately do not lead him safely back “home” of al-Andalus often evokes a lost paradise in (which is where tourism always finds its happy Islamic culture, Said’s text reveals the limits ending) but instead point to something closer to of such a discourse. the “intellectual’s provisional home” a location Coincidentally, Loureiro shows in the the author defines in Humanism and Demo- above-mentioned essay that in the Spanish cratic Criticism. Such a home, Said explains at context a potentially comparable discourse of the end of a complex reflection of Humanist loss and decadence begins with the articula- critical praxis, “is the domain of an exigent, tion of an imperial and Orientalist nostalgia resistant, intransigent art into which, alas, one in the eighteenth century, which lasted well can neither retreat nor search for solutions.” into the Francoist years: “One of the better- He concludes these thoughts suggesting that known early formulations of Spanish-his- “only in that precarious exilic realm can one tory-as-decadence can be found in the late first truly grasp the difficulty of what cannot eighteenth century in José Cadalso’s Cartas be grasped and then go forth to try anyway” marruecas, in which he proposes remedies to (2004: 144). Quaderns de la Mediterrània 16, 2011: 169-182 173 Significantly, if only momentarily as “An- trips to Andalusia, as it is a reflection on what dalusia’s Journey” appears in a publication in these trips mean for Said as an intellectual, a which Southern Spain may be reduced to an writer, and an Arab. exotic travel destination, Said’s text moves be- yond its venue, revealing also that Andalusia is The most obvious distinction between always more than the sum of its parts. For the tourism and other forms of travel is a foreign tourist, traveler or armchair traveler binary opposition between the authentic who visits Andalusia, a city like Granada still (travel) and the inauthentic (tourism) may be “one of the exotic locales par excellence in Romantic culture, a geographic, cultural and The distinctions between traveling and temporal elsewhere far removed from the mun- tourism have been widely discussed in such dane aspects of contemporary reality” (Saglia, fields as anthropology and sociology. Rather 2001-2002: 194). Said’s text, however, makes an than reproducing these debates here, I would attempt to connect Andalusia’s exoticism with like to focus on two issues that are central to contemporary reality, navigating the shifting my analysis of Said’s text, namely, a quest for a meanings Andalusia attains within Spanish, cultural experience considered to be “authen- Arabic, British and American traditions. Or tic,” and the multiple meanings that returning it may just dance around these meanings, just home attains when traveling. Possibly the most like Carmen’s ghost: “And what could be more obvious distinction between tourism and other Andalusian,” writes Said, following the earlier forms of travel is a binary opposition between citation “than the fiery flamenco dancer, ac- the authentic (travel) and the inauthentic companied by hoarse cantaores, martial hand- (tourism) (Curtis and Pajaczkowska, 1994: 202). clapping, and hypnotically strummed guitars, Tourism may have been initially understood to all of which have precedents in Arabic music?” function as a “quest for authenticity” (Rojek (2002: 2). and Urry, 1997: 11), that is, tourism was to pro- vide the means to escape the daily routine of work and conventional life; touring unknown Travel + Tourism grounds would provide a way of finding again one’s true subjectivity. Rojek and Urry write: Said’s brief 2002 essay on Andalusia can “The world of habitual life is so ordered and be examined alongside his 2004 collection managed that authentic feelings are subdued Humanism and Democratic Criticism in or- or choked off. Through tourism we are said to der to mark some important distinctions in have the expression of real feelings.” Yet the Said’s observations, analysis, and work. With authors concede that considering a location “Andalusia’s Journey”, Said is writing for an like Las Vegas reveals that, “tourist sights are audience whose understanding of “travel” – at increasingly using extravagantly inauthentic least when choosing to pick up this particular accessories to attract tourists” (1997: 11). publication – might exclude the forms of theo- One does not need to look at Las Vegas – or retical maneuvers, displacement, exile and di- Disneyland – and its excesses to grasp that tour- aspora on which Said has written throughout ism nowadays often has become synonymous his career. While undoubtedly informative with simulacra and in-authenticity, with rec- about the region’s history and contradictions, reation and restoration not of what certain loca- the text also depicts the author’s inner journey: tions like Granada are or might have been, but the essay is as much a description of several of what these are expected to signify. Traveling 174 In that Precarious Exilic Realm: Edward Said’s Andalusian Journeys Tabea Linhard off the beaten path has become the norm liter- authentic experience, or not embarking on any ally and metaphorically so that only the beaten form of travel in the first place. The opposite paths may be left. The crucial issue here would of tourism would be “the involuntary travel not be to locate the exact barrier that divides associated with the predicament of the immi- the so-called authentic from the simulacra, or grant. If the tourist travels, for the most part, to establish once and for all where traveling backwards in time, then the immigrant, the ends and tourism begins, but to look instead exile and the diasporic travel forwards with for other variables that allow us to understand no promise of a restored home” (1994: 202- where the differentiation between travel and 203). The ambivalent sense of “home” which tourism shifts, and why understanding this comes across in Said’s text also suggests that shift is relevant. “Andalusia’s Journey” oscillates between travel backwards and travel forwards, between tour- Tourism oscillates between a quest of the ism and other, much more complex meanings authentic and the perfect simulation that, of displacement. This ambivalence, ultimately, at least temporarily, fills the gap for an also is what accentuates the above-mentioned authenticity that can neither be restored critical voice in the essay. In a discussion of the nor recreated predicaments of intellectual exiles, which also is part of the Reith Lectures, Said explains what Andalusia is a highly popular destination, the impossibility of returning home implies: and in the past decades Andalusian cities, or- “Exile for the intellectual in this metaphysical ganizations and private companies have made sense is restlessness, movement, constantly be- possible different forms of travel focused on the ing unsettled, and unsettling others. You cannot region’s multi-ethnic heritage. These include, go back to some earlier or perhaps more stable for example, the Fundación Tres Culturas in condition of being at home; and, alas, you can Seville, and the Casa de Sefarad-Casa de la never fully arrive, be at one with your new Memoria in Cordoba. This does not mean that home or situation” (1994: 53). While at first it visitors who tour Alhambra in Granada, or the may seem that a search for an ancestral home, streets of Cordoba and Seville, are going to be that could provide both answers and comfort, merely confronted with nothing more than a motivates Said’s earlier journeys to Andalusia, miniature Las Vegas or, to use George Ritzer the text reveals that rather than encountering a and Allan Liska’s term, a “McDisneyization” of “restored home,” the author ends up facing his Andalusian cultural heritage. Rather, tourism own nostalgia for a place that never existed. oscillates between a quest of the authentic and This nostalgia is apparent in Said’s descrip- the perfect simulation that, at least temporarily, tions of his consecutive journeys to Andalusia, fills the gap for an authenticity that can neither which begin in 1966, during the Francoist be restored nor recreated. dictatorship. He admits that at the time An- Similarly, Said’s text oscillates between a dalusia was “wonderfully picturesque” but he travel narrative, tourist guide and a philosophi- contrasts his vision of Granada with the ways cal interrogation of what “home” may mean for in which mass tourism has already changed a writer like Said. In these Andalusian journeys other Spanish cities, that is, “the burgeoning the expected meets the unexpected, and return- and quite sleazy mass tourist trade that had ing home from this journey is both possible and put down roots in Malaga (not to mention the impossible. Curtis and Pajaczkowska argue that ghastly neighboring village of Torremolinos)” the opposite of tourism would not be a largely (2002: 1). Moreover, Said, at least in the initial Quaderns de la Mediterrània 16, 2011: 169-182 175 moments of the text, still seems to yearn for “essence,” the Arab invasion in 711, together the restored home to which Curtis and Pajacz- with the Jewish presence, largely tolerated in kowska refer: “But for me, and indeed for many Arab Spain, is part and parcel of the Spanish Arabs, Andalusia still represents the finest flow- history and civilization of a country that never ering of our culture. That is particularly true was and never will be monocultural. now, when the Arab Middle East seems mired in defeat and violence, its societies unable Everywhere he looks, Said finds traces to arrest their declining fortunes, its secular of Spain’s Arab as well as Spain’s Jewish culture so full of almost surreal crisis, shock heritage, echoing Américo Castro’s and nihilism.” However, later in the text Said analysis of Spanish history and civilization undermines this very idea, when he admits that Andalusia, with its striking monuments The moment when Said questions why the and watery gardens, “makes a rather too fac- Arabic heritage in Spain lingered for so long ile, moral lesson of the place.” At this point “if Arabs had represented only a negligible in the text Said moves away from a nostalgic phase in Spanish history” (2002: 4), Said’s An- idealization of Andalusia and explores instead dalusian journeys do not only take him across the region’s conflicts and ghosts, traveling with the Atlantic, from New York to Spain, but also the baggage of a Palestinian Arab, “as someone across time. His final destination is not a re- whose diverse background might offer a way stored home, but a location that remains both of seeing and understanding the place beyond out of place and out of time. Said’s travels to illusion and romance” (2002: 2). and within Andalusia are not a journey to a In lieu of displaying the attributes of a restored home, yet still a journey that makes lost paradise, in Said’s text Andalusia reveals him (and consequently, his readers) aware of the constant negotiation between historical a precarious, un-restorable home. repression of Arab culture and the persistent In “Andalusia’s Journey”, tourism coexists remainders of this culture: “The Arabs jour- discursively with other forms of travel; the neyed along the shores of the Mediterranean text’s contradictions also are the contradic- through Spain, France, and Italy, all of which tions of Andalusia and what it stands for. And now bear their traces, even if those traces are if the traveler is able to return home from not always acknowledged,” writes Said (2002: this journey “backwards in time” the only 2). And little by little the contradictions of An- home he shall return to will necessarily be a dalusia come about: everywhere he looks, Said “precarious and exilic realm” (2004: 141). The finds traces of Spain’s Arab as well as Spain’s text therefore is far more than a search for the Jewish heritage, echoing Américo Castro’s “authentic” Andalusia, or a quest for the sole, analysis of Spanish history and civilization. For real Andalusian journey, which would reveal Castro, these Arab and Jewish cultural traces the artificiality of other journeys to Andalusia. are not the remnants of a foreign invasion that Instead, Said’s text also challenges the very idea distorted a supposed national and ethnic unity of such a quest for authenticity. of an essential and timeless Spanish identity. Instead, the encounter between these different cultures is what constitutes Spanish culture in An Andalusian Palimpsest the first place. Challenging more orthodox versions of history, Castro argues that rather “Andalusia’s Journey” may initially reinforce than an interruption of a pre-existing Spanish the idea of a lost paradise where watery gar- 176 In that Precarious Exilic Realm: Edward Said’s Andalusian Journeys Tabea Linhard dens and shady patios served as a backdrop for changing yet always somehow the same – a the harmonious co-existence of Arabs, Jews unity in multiplicity.” The mosque/cathedral is and Christians before 1492. A close reading of a palimpsestic structure, as Andalusian culture the text, however, reveals that what Said re- as a whole may be: it is more than the sum of its ally encounters in Andalusia are palimpsests: parts, but it also is more than what Said himself trace upon trace and writing upon writing bear calls the “amazingly mixed Arab, Jewish and witness to conflict rather than harmony. Said Latin cultural centers of Cordoba, Granada and writes: “Andalusia multiplies in the mind with Seville” (2002: 1). its contradictions and puzzles; its history is a history of the masks and assumed identities it Said’s text reveals that Andalusian culture has worn” (2002: 2). The term palimpsest com- is palimpsestic: the remainders of past monly refers to a parchment or vellum from conflicts are what constitute which an earlier text has been erased or scraped the Andalusian cultural heritage Said in order to make room for a new inscription; the discusses in his text fact that the remainders of the older text are usually still noticeable has turned the palimps- Andalusia is not just a palimpsest because est into a useful image within a poststructural the structures of its monuments are constant and postcolonial context. reminders of the Arab and Jewish presence, Cultural imprints tell stories that chal- instead, Said’s text reveals that Andalusian lenge colonial master narratives, stories that culture is palimpsestic: the remainders of past become, to use Said’s terms, histories of masks conflicts are what constitute the Andalusian and assumed identities. The important point cultural heritage Said discusses in his text. is that Said never specifies what lies hidden These also are the traces that reveal a coun- underneath these masks and assumed identi- termemory Said is ready to articulate, in spite ties. The Andalusian history he encounters of this unconventional and leisurely venue in during his journeys that span three decades is which this text appears. I am referring here to a history of these conflicts and their remain- a statement Said makes in the final chapter of ders. This becomes clear in his description of Humanism and Democratic Criticism: “The in- the “mosque-cum-Cathedral” in Cordoba: tellectual is perhaps a kind of countermemory, “The great mosque was later barbarically with its own counterdiscourse that will not al- seized by a Christian monarch who turned low conscience to look away or fall asleep” it into a church. He did this by inserting an (2004: 142). entire cathedral into the Muslim structure’s I have argued earlier in this essay that in center, in an aggressive erasure of history spite of the inherent contradictions in “Anda- and statement of faith” (2002: 4). Scratching lusia’s Journey” Said’s text remains engaged the imprints on a palimpsest would then not with “alternative narratives and other per- reveal the origin (of Andalusian culture) but spectives on history” (2004: 141). Said writes instead display the constant interactions and that Andalusia was “a particularly lively conflicts between cultures, within communi- instance of the dialogue, much more than ties and among individuals. Yet even the most the clash of cultures” (2002: 1), however, the “aggressive forms of erasure,” and even this palimpsestic nature of Andalusia that becomes “statement of faith” end up revealing their apparent in Said’s text challenges a nostalgic own futility, as Said explains: “The whole view of such a dialogue. In a text in which composition is always in evidence – always tourism and travel coexist, Said the traveler, Quaderns de la Mediterrània 16, 2011: 169-182 177 Said the tourist, and Said the intellectual way to Juan Goytisolo’s Don Julián (a novel confront one of the tasks of the intellectual, Said also mentions in the article), and recent articulated in the final chapter of Humanism literary texts focusing on migration and its and Democratic Criticism: “The need now is consequences in an increasingly multicultural for deintoxicated, sober histories that make society, it may not even be possible to fully evident the multiplicity and complexity of grasp what Spanish literature is all about, history without allowing one to conclude that without understanding the lingering Arab it moves forward impersonally, according to presence. laws determined either by the divine or by the powerful” (2004: 141). Don Quixote’s Ghost It may not even be possible to fully grasp what Spanish literature is all about, So while a palimpsestic structure of a monu- without understanding the lingering ment like the Mosque in Cordoba needs to be Arab presence understood in the context of religiosity, edifices like the mosque or the Alhambra, or even street So while the readers who pick up a copy of quarters like the Barrio de Albaicín in Granada, Travel + Leisure may just yearn for an escape, or the Judería (Jewish Quarter) in Seville tell to “leave behind a modern world of disillu- stories within stories – not unlike the text that sionment, strife, and uncertainty” (2002: 1) gave birth to the modern novel, Don Quixote. and find calm and harmony in a structure like The narrator of Cervantes’s novel, we need to the Alhambra in Granada, Said’s text suggests remember, translates the text from the original that those who choose to travel to Andalusia aljamiado, the Romance vernacular in Arabic (literally or not) are bound to encounter in the script. The text’s original author is an Arab, same time the “multiplicity and complexity Cide Hamete Benengeli. This character, follow- of history” (2004: 141). The twofold meaning ing William Childers “displaces the idea of any of the text also links “Andalusia’s Journey” essentialized cultural identity or preordained to Said’s secular humanism, his critique of order to which the text could correspond” Euro-centrism and imperialism. Said’s secular (2006: 70). María Rosa Menocal poignantly humanism may also be what makes him so describes the genesis of the second part of the attentive to the violence caused by religious novel in her book The Ornament of the World. strife in Andalusian and Spanish history as a She narrates how in the beginning of Book II whole, long before and long after 1492. In his of Don Quixote, the narrator has traveled to text, Said reminds us that the violent attempt Toledo, in search of the manuscript of Book to erase Arab culture was neither successful, I, which is about to be destroyed, so that the nor complete: “Yet, classical Mudejar art, with material on which the text was written can be its typically florid Arabesques and geometrical reused: “The man is wandering down these architecture, was produced after the Muslims streets because it is now the neighborhood of were defeated. As far as Catalonia, Gaudí’s ob- the rag sellers. The old neighborhood of books session with botanical motifs shows the Arab and the men who wrote the books and trans- influence at its most profound” (2002: 4). The lated books for the world has become a place influence of Arab culture hardly is limited where the books no one is supposed to read to art and architecture. From the Medieval anymore are turned into pulp. The man sees a romances to Cervantes’ Don Quixote, all the boy with a pile of papers he is trying to sell to 178 In that Precarious Exilic Realm: Edward Said’s Andalusian Journeys Tabea Linhard an old silk merchant, and he can tell they are adjacent territories to very distant lands” and, written in Arabic” (2002: 254). finally, his own upbringing and education in The pile of papers is the first part of the ad- the US, French and British context” (1993: ventures of Don Quixote, written, as I already xxiii). A brief and seemingly extraneous text mentioned, in aljamiado. The narrator now like “Andalusia’s Journey” might not fill the has to find a translator who will help him to lacunae that the author readily acknowledges read a text written in a script that officially no in his broader analysis of culture and empire. longer exists on Iberian soil. Similar to ladino, However, this succinct text still provides a aljamiado is a palimpsestic language, display- missing link between the Spanish imperial ing the remainders of the violent and tolerant expansion from the Mediterranean to the At- co-existence of the three cultures in Medieval lantic, and the contingencies Said analyzes in Spain. Don Quixote, emerges from the ex- such texts as Culture and Imperialism, and also tremely contradictory and sedimented society Orientalism. that could be found in the Iberian peninsula in the years that followed the reconquest of Don Quixote, emerges from the extremely Arab Spain, the expulsion of the Jews, and the contradictory and sedimented society that conquest of the Americas. These were the years, could be found in the Iberian peninsula briefly, when certain processes of religious and in the years that followed the reconquest ethnic identification, either evident, concealed of Arab Spain or falsified, acquired a whole new set of shifting meanings, often with devastating consequences These connections do not correspond to a di- for individuals and communities as a whole. rect and unwavering line between the moment Said does not specifically discuss Don Quixote when the first Andalusian beach was conquered in his essay. Yet in addition to the undeniable from the South in 711 to consequences of Arab cultural imprints in this novel, the fact such events as 11th September or 11th March. that Cervantes is understood to be “one of the Rather, I would like to avoid the all-too-easy founders of modern literature and a giant of fusion between past, present and future, which the European canon” (Childers, 2006: 77) needs often happens when the Medieval co-existence to be considered here, particularly bearing in of three cultures or convivencia is understood mind the importance the author places on to be a “road map” that could solve present narrative in Culture and Imperialism. Here, conflicts in Spain, and in the Mediterranean Said analyzes novels in order to understand world as a whole. As mentioned earlier, there the discursive mechanisms of colonization is a slight tendency to do so in the initial mo- and decolonization. The fact that the Spanish ments of Said’s text, which needs to be exam- empire and its (decadent) remainders are for ined further. the most part absent from this study is some- what perplexing. Said justifies the limits of his corpus in the book’s preface in the following Convivencia’s Ghosts terms: “What I am saying about the British, French and American imperial experience is Said himself refers to Andalusia as the site of that it has a unique coherence and a special dialogue, rather than clash of cultures. Particu- cultural centrality” (1993: xxii). Said also larly in the beginning of the text, Said refers provides two further reasons for limiting his to convivencia with a longing for harmony corpus: the “overseas rule” or “jumping beyond and tolerance: “Muslims, Jews and Christians
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